[pareshraheja]

Originally Posted by Amazing

I it is making a 'chin chyan kyanch' noise :-)

I would love to hear anyone make that type of a noise. Well to be honest, it will be difficult for anyone to help without actually seeing the problem.

Further, running your car at 130-140 kmph speed when the engine is new is a not a good idea. The MJD in particular takes time to open (free revving) in comparison to say the dCI of Reanult or the CRDI of Hyundai. It is certainly out of any so called run-in period but, as per my experience with 3 MJD's in the family, waiting for the next engine oil change and also taking it easy till about 7500 km on the odo will be a good idea.

Cheers

[harryms]

Originally Posted by Amazing

I made a 2000 km round trip in my 2012 Linea MJD in Diwali from Pune-Bangy and back. Few observations I had made , need your expert opinions on these:

1) I had put a cloth on the rear LHS glass , held with the glass fully up to protect the rear passengers from direct sunlight. After some hours when I was rolling down the rear LHS glass many times for next 3-4 days( cloth already removed), it is making a 'chin chyan kyanch' noise :-) indicating some kind of resistance. This noise starts once the glass is halfway down.

Pls help with DIY actions or do i need to visit dealership ? Does any indicate any part failure on window winding etc ?

** Done the same many times in my older cars, never faced any such issues **.

2) Drove many times at 130-140 kmph at a stretch in the NH4 , karnataka part ...but I felt the engine strained [ AC on , with just total 3 passengers, very less luggage] , and forcing me to comeback to the comfy 120 kmph speed. Is it normal ? I head the MJD can cruise easily at 150+ , but I could not reach that.

Car is just 3500 kms run at start of trip, 1st service done.

3) Steering was responsive , but I felt it much harder than Verna at 100+ speeds causing a bit of pain/strain in hand for turning it. anything abnormal in my Linea wrt this ?

Q1. This is due to the glass beeding out of place, just visit the TASS they will fix it, i too had this issue previously.

Q2. i have not passed the 120kmph until 15K odo reeding, so i cant comment about it. But i have not faced any issue crossing 120 mark with 4 passenger and AC on.

Q3. This abnormal you have to go to TASS and check.

[Amazing]

Thanks for your replies mate.

Another issue I had observed in last weeks trip while braking at speeds of 100-120 kmph...felt that the car tend to swerve/pull on left side, and I had to steer slightly to keep it staright. Pls note this is on smooth tarmac of NH4 , with no gradients, I mean flat surface road.

Can the reason be due to some suspension / tie rod / alignmrnt or any other issue ..experts pls share your opinion?

in 1st service of Oct, wheel alignment check was not done by TASS ..forgot ..which anyways they promised to do later , after I take the car to them..its still pending.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by Amazing

Thanks for your replies mate.

Another issue I had observed in last weeks trip while braking at speeds of 100-120 kmph...felt that the car tend to swerve/pull on left side, and I had to steer slightly to keep it staright. Pls note this is on smooth tarmac of NH4 , with no gradients, I mean flat surface road.

Can the reason be due to some suspension / tie rod / alignmrnt or any other issue ..experts pls share your opinion?

in 1st service of Oct, wheel alignment check was not done by TASS ..forgot ..which anyways they promised to do later , after I take the car to them..its still pending.

Sir wheel alignment at TASS is a joke. I suggest you forbid them from touching alignment. After my 5k alignment at TASS the slight left pulling was not corrected and its almost fine now after I got it done outside.

Left pulling on braking - check if left pads are binding. If its not resolved after a good alignment job you can take it up with TASS.

My cars front suspension is good at speed but at slower speeds I get a hard thud feeling... Normal?

Edit: To enhance ride comfort I plan to switch to higher profile tyres. Anyone here with 60/65 profile tyres on 15" rims? This will also fill the gap between tyres n wheel arch.

[Autocop]

Autocrat,

I recently upgraded tyre size from 195 60/R15 to 195 65/R15. After the upgrade, the suspension seems to abosrb bad roads and speed brakers at slow speeds without any thud noise. Earlier I also faced the issue of thud noise at slow speeds. Mere tyre upgrade has completely transformed the same suspension. Plus the GC increase offered by upgrade means mimimal to none ground scrapping.

Caution:-
The only catch with any tyre/wheel upgrade is speedo/odo error. The upgrade above introduces 3% speedo/odo error. Illustrating speedo/odo error further - 1) odo meter increases by 1 KM when you have actually travelled 1.03 KMs, 2) speed meter would show 100 KM/Hr when you are actually doing 103 KM/Hr. Same mess gets reflected on Trip A/B readings as well. For me that's not an issue, I just multiply the readings by 1.03 to know actuals figures.

Originally Posted by autocrat

My cars front suspension is good at speed but at slower speeds I get a hard thud feeling... Normal?

Edit: To enhance ride comfort I plan to switch to higher profile tyres. Anyone here with 60/65 profile tyres on 15" rims? This will also fill the gap between tyres n wheel arch.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by Autocop

Autocrat,

I recently upgraded tyre size from 195 60/R15 to 195 65/R15. After the upgrade, the suspension seems to abosrb bad roads and speed brakers at slow speeds without any thud noise. Earlier I also faced the issue of thud noise at slow speeds. Mere tyre upgrade has completely transformed the same suspension. Plus the GC increase offered by upgrade means mimimal to none ground scrapping.

Caution:-
The only catch with any tyre/wheel upgrade is speedo/odo error. The upgrade above introduces 3% speedo/odo error. Illustrating speedo/odo error further - 1) odo meter increases by 1 KM when you have actually travelled 1.03 KMs, 2) speed meter would show 100 KM/Hr when you are actually doing 103 KM/Hr. Same mess gets reflected on Trip A/B readings as well. For me that's not an issue, I just multiply the readings by 1.03 to know actuals figures.

Thanks a lot for this encouraging update! How's the handling? Any difference?

[Autocop]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Thanks a lot for this encouraging update! How's the handling? Any difference?

Overall ride quality has improved significantly. Can't feel any major difference in handling. I would say same as earlier or may be a notch better due to wider rubber.

How many KMs has your Linea clocked so far?

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by Autocop

Overall ride quality has improved significantly. Can't feel any major difference in handling. I would say same as earlier or may be a notch better due to wider rubber.

How many KMs has your Linea clocked so far?

My Linea has done about 11,300 km now, in 8 months. If I get a decent price for the current lot I will change the tyres soon

[thumpingbull]

Recently I noticed that my fuel cap (outer plastic lid) was not closing properly. On checking found that it's not getting locked on pushing. Anyone with similar problem? Can it be repaired or has to be replaced?

[Sommos]

Originally Posted by thumpingbull

Recently I noticed that my fuel cap (outer plastic lid) was not closing properly. On checking found that it's not getting locked on pushing. Anyone with similar problem? Can it be repaired or has to be replaced?

Got a bit confused about what the problem is in your case ?

In my case the plastic fuel cap closes properly, no problem with it.
But there is a problem with the outer metal cover on the body. It does not close if pushed, as is normal. What I do is pull the lever (at driver's foot) and tell the pump guy to push the lid and hold it. Then I let the lever go and the cap is locked properly. I think you're also having the same problem.

I'm having this problem for about one month now but could'nt find the time to visit TASS.

[thumpingbull]

Yes I am referring to the outer cover, but I doubt if it is a metal cover. Anyway.. I'll try this out as an interim measure. It has to be repaired anyway . Time to go to TASS. Any suggestions on which is the best place in delhi. I tried Techno Auto and had a pretty bad experience.

[nkg77]

Originally Posted by Sommos

But there is a problem with the outer metal cover on the body. It does not close if pushed, as is normal. What I do is pull the lever (at driver's foot) and tell the pump guy to push the lid and hold it. Then I let the lever go and the cap is locked properly.

Originally Posted by thumpingbull

Yes I am referring to the outer cover, but I doubt if it is a metal cover. Anyway.. I'll try this out as an interim measure. It has to be repaired anyway . Time to go to TASS. Any suggestions on which is the best place in delhi. I tried Techno Auto and had a pretty bad experience.

There is a simple DIY to fix the problem, a latch locks the outer fuel cap. Please grease the latch and the loop in the fuel cap. Then it will work without any issues.

[Sommos]

Originally Posted by nkg77

There is a simple DIY to fix the problem, a latch locks the outer fuel cap. Please grease the latch and the loop in the fuel cap. Then it will work without any issues.

Thanks @NKG, I didn't read your post earlier.
But that is exactly what the mechanic at TASS did and the problem was gone. I was like .

[ranjitss]

The right turn indicator does not get off automatically even when the steering wheel is steered back to normal straight driving position after completing a right turn. I have to turn it off manually. The left side is working fine.
Has anyone faced this issue?

[nkrishnap]

Originally Posted by ranjitss

The right turn indicator does not get off automatically even when the steering wheel is steered back to normal straight driving position after completing a right turn. I have to turn it off manually. The left side is working fine.
Has anyone faced this issue?

This has got to do with the Combination switch not working as it should. Please visit your TASS and get the combination switch replaced. It should be covered under warranty.

The 2012 Linea are prone to irritating rattle from the doors. Simply tape up the wires leading to the power window switches and the rattles should go away.