Team-BHP - Ikon 1.6L jerking & rpm fluctuating issue

Guys,

My Ikon's been juddering and jerking while driving. Over the last two to three month, the issue's gotten steadily worse. First it was only a mild occasional jerk (sort of like a misfire) but now the symptoms are:

1. Jerking is more pronounced

2. RPM is all over the place... during idling it tends to stay between 1200 and 1600... sometimes it spikes to 2000. Then I switch of the car and restart it, and it comes back to normal, but it'll still fluctuate between 600 and 1600 during idle.
3. I can feel it judder and jerk even while driving.
4. Fuel eco has gone from 10.2kpl to less than 8.

Ford says it could be either:
a) The Throttle Position Sensor
b) The Bypass Valve (also called the IAC (Idling Air Control) Valve).

The reason I didn't attend to it immediately is because my last few experiences with Ford A.S.S have been traumatic to say the least. Now I'm dealing with the Works Manager, who at least seems to know what he's doing.

Any suggestions on what the problem could be? Is Ford being straight with me? Can a non Ford-A.S.S garage fix this?

I have this same issue with my 2003 ikon 1.6 I got the main coil and the spark plugs changed from local market for 1100/-. Now the jerking problem is gone but RPM still fluctuates. Ford service quoted close to 10K to solve both the issues. They say fluctuation is due to some sensor or throttle body. Cost of coil change in ford was close to 5K

Quote:

Originally Posted by mclaren1885 (Post 1450926)

Check the TPS, IAC and cam sensors. Bad idling could mainly be because of a faulty cam adjustment or a bust sensor.

Thanks Macca. Shaman is claiming the same thing. Would the bust throttle sensor also be responsible for the jerking?
Another symptom... even before the jerking and rpm flux started, the engine never ran sweet, you know what I mean? The engine vibration was a little strong for my tastes... I could feel it with my hand on the gearshift.

Anyone know where I can get this done from a Non-Ford garage? I live in South Bombay (Worli)... but I commute between Worli and Bandra daily.

Could also be the ignition coil. I had a similar issue with my ikon and replacing the coil fixed it for good. Don't get it done from outside, stick to an authorised centre as you will not get oem parts elsewhere, there are cheaper chinese coils available but I would advise against them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Astleviz (Post 1451073)

It's not the coil. That was my first suspicion and so was the first thing I had checked. They replaced my coil with a brand new coil and the problem persisted.

Apparently if it is the Bypass (IAC) Valve then they have to open up the inlet manifold to get at it and replace it. If that's the case, then I will probably go back to Shaman.

Any other thoughts? Anybody?

Quote:

Originally Posted by genesis (Post 1451319)

IAC valve.
Sometimes they can get by with cleaning it. Ultimately you have to replace it

Seems to be. The works manager said that they'd cleaned it, but it would need to be replaced in two months... which is now. Today I started it, and the revs were 1800 rpm. Taking it to Shaman Ford tomorrow. Major damage to wallet expected. :(

IAC valve it is. I have written about this problem in my OHC all over the OHC problem areas thread / Idling problem thread. The RPM will be solved, then you have to see if the jerking exists or not, it will be the MAP/TP sensor then.

I had to replace almost the whole TB.

Have had these issues over the last 2 years in my Ikon 1.6 (109000 kms and sputtering!)

Welcome to the Fix Or Repair Daily family.

I have started working on this with a private garage which specializes in rally prep cars since yesterday after the RAJSHREE FORD A** ended up leaving a bad taste in the mouth with their service. Effortless service as all they have to do is raise bills, not clear problems. I tried a couple of other garages but still the varying rpm persisted, more issues cropped up on the way too. (The brakes had to be replaced. The engine one day lost a dummy and poured all the coolant out. The right rear wheel bearing went from irritating cold to a bout of pneumonia in 100 kms. Replaced yesterday.)

This is what is being done as of now. I shall update as work progresses.
Check if there is a lot of dirt on the throttle body and replace the throttle cable if necessary. My throttle body was spray-cleaned and it has resulted in slightly reduced rpm issues. Couldn't get a 1.6 throttle cable yesterday as it was not in stock. Today I am also going in for an injector clean and replacement of fuel and air filters. Thinking of the Green Cotton Universal filter, if budget permits. I can always reuse it in the next car when I switch this one.

Will update progress tomorrow.

Update on my Ikon 1.6:

The throttle cable was sticky and was spray-cleaned. Need to replace it but spare is not available. The injectors were cleaned and the car is peppy. But the issue of rising rpm remains as long as the A/c is switched on. Delayed the replacement of fuel and air filters till the next service is due in about 1500 kms. Replaced the vacuum hoses as the engine had spewed oil on it making it spongy and sucking in air. The gasket (not sure of the right term) was replaced.

My locks need to be replaced. Only locks on one side, unlocks on the other and the boot has to be opened from inside. While trying to fix it, the mechanic managed to damage a plastic clip and now, the inside door knob on the driver side does not work. Waiting for spares.

Replaced the wipers (old- Syndicate, new-Bosch regular) this week and the clear glass is welcome.

Might avoid the Green Cotton Universal filter for now, as the tires also need replacement shortly. The Ikon has so far been a bottomless pit for me in terms of maintenance, but the only saving grace is that it rides well.