[ankit.jhamb]

the problem is due to blockage in fuel line or due to bad quality of fuel.had similar problem in my baleno.
i think cleaning of fuel pipe/tank would solve the problem.

[amitverma]

i am having the exact same problem in my palio. every morning i need to crank it 5-6 times to get it going. and the cranks are almost similar to the ones shown on video.
after the car starts up once, the problem doesnt appear again. till the next morning that is. now what i mean by mornings here is any period of inactivity. If I try to start it again say, after 7-8 hours, the problem would appear again.

Its a cold-start problem. I havent been able to find the cause.
a couple of members suggested a faulty TDC sensor. is there a way to get the sensor checked or something. because a year and a half back i had a faulty TDC sensor and i was left stranded in the middle of nowhere. the car refuses to start if the TDC sensor gives up. I dont want to be in that situation ever again.

[SS-Traveller]

Good you posted the video. 3 things come to notice offhand:

1. Engine refusing to fire up;
2. Misfiring as the engine starts to catch;
3. Won't fast idle on its own while cold. Stalls as you let go of the accelerator.

Before you start with opening up and changing parts, here's something to do.

• Empty the petrol and refill (top up completely) with petrol from a reliable pump (I'm presuming you've got moisture contamination in your petrol).
• Refill in the middle of the afternoon, when it's sunny, and not early morning when it's foggy and clammy.
• Use something like System G or Cyclo Max 44 - 1-1.5 ml/litre - and drive around for about 25-30 km without having to switch off (presuming choked injectors).
• Give your car a full throttle burst before switching off for the night (just the one night).

Check in the morning and see if the problem recurs.

[sidindica]

car's actuator gone kaput. unable to control rpm, cost rs 7200 to replace.

[vigsom]

actuator=stepper motor?

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by sidindica

car's actuator gone kaput. unable to control rpm, cost rs 7200 to replace.

Santro has a throttle actuator? i.e. it's drive-by-wire? do you mean the throttle body?

So why the misfiring engine? and you did say it runs ok once the engine is warmed up...

...the car runs absolutely normally...

Apologies if I'm getting too technical.

[im_srini]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Check for idling sensor, any loose connection and earth. Also check for vacuum leak on the hoses.

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Santro has a throttle actuator? i.e. it's drive-by-wire? do you mean the throttle body? So why the misfiring engine? and you did say it runs ok once the engine is warmed up...

I think what Hyundai calls an "actuator" is called an "idle air control valve" (or IACV) by Maruti-Suzuki.

One can think of an IACV as a small motor that controls the amount of air that's "bypassed" around the throttle butterfly when it's completely closed (i.e. when idling). The most common reason for the IACV malfunctioning is "enthusiastic" cleaning of the throttle body At 7.2K, it's a tad pricey though...

[amitverma]

@im_srini: wat do u mean by "enthusiastic" cleaning of throttle body? how does it mess up the sensor?
i have a cng'd palio and its having a tough time working with petrol. it does fine on cng though.

[CrackedHead]

Originally Posted by sidindica

car's actuator gone kaput. unable to control rpm, cost rs 7200 to replace.

Don't buy it from the A.S.S - should be lesser outside.

[im_srini]

Originally Posted by amitverma

@im_srini: wat do u mean by "enthusiastic" cleaning of throttle body? how does it mess up the sensor?

Hi Amit,

What has a become a regular practice at service centers, especially Maruti, is to use BG throttle-body-cleaner, radiator-flush, & oil-flush on cars whether they need them or not.

The standard practice for throttle-body cleaning is use a cylindrical contraption with a thin, flexible, metal pipe that runs from its base to an atomizer (nozzle). They hang the cylinder next to your car, fill it with a can of BG-throttle-body cleaner, & connect it to a supply of compressed air. The compressed air forces the BG cleaner out through the nozzle in a fine spray, which is directed at your throttle-body while your engine is idled. It takes about 15 mins for the entire volume of cleaner to be emptied into the idle-air-bypass passage & IACV of the throttle-body.

If you're unlucky, or gullible, they might also include "radiator-flushing" to your bill. This is more of the same, BG-coolant-flush liquid is poured into the radiator & the engine idled for 15 minutes. Most often, both the throttle-body-cleaning & coolant-flush are done at the same time since it's much more convenient that way - they're happier by almost 800 bucks for 15 mins of next to no work.

Unless you're throttle-body is really grimy or filled with goop, it's enough if you use just compressed air to clean it. And when compressed air is used to clean the idle-air-bypass passage, it is recommended that the IACV be removed. When putting the throttle-body together again, the IACV gasket should be replaced.

I had emailed Maruti when my IACV developed issues after one such service episode - a power-train engineer replied back that not only do such "cleaners" mess up the IACV motor, they also tend to harden the IACV gasket.

[Gene]

One of my friend has a santro Xing 2004 model. The problem is when he switches off the car after driving 10 - 15 km, it won't start. He needs to pause for a minute and then try again. He doesn't have any problem while starting a car in the morning or even after parking the car for a week. Can someone throw some light on this?