[vnabhi]

Is the 'check engine light' glowing? If yes, the ECU cuts the revvs to prevent damage to the engine. This normally happens during winter months, but I'm not sure about your friend's case. In my case, the light glows once or twice in winter months, but on switching off and starting again it does not glow, and I feel no lack of grunt.

The light normally glows when there is muck in the throttle body or on the MAP sensor. Please check Jerry_can's thread for details on how to overcome that issue.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ght-issue.html

[Jeroen]

You say they did a ids scan? If it was a proper Ford authorised shop, they would have had a Ford Fiesta specific OBD analyser. Even though the CEL is not on that doesn't mean much. There could still be codes. Also, those analysers have a lot of dynamic testing capabilities and this is a typical problem you find by looking at laptop with the correct diagnostic software.

So I would make absolutely sure that they had the right analytical equipment and competence to deal with this. If not, go and find somebody that does. Trust me, it will save time and money in the end.

Alternatively you can go with the trusted Team BHP method also known as the hit or miss method and start changing out everything. I doubt very much that engine flush, oil change and the likes will make a difference.

Lack of low rev pick up could be a host of different things. Some, not all, will throw codes, but not necessarily a CEL.

There are a few things you could checked/do that are relatively easy and cheap and could be the cause of lack of low rev pick up:

- Check and clean the air inlet filter.
- Check the whole air inlet circuit up to especially after the mass air flow meter for little tears, anything loose. If there is any air drawn in here it won't be measured by the mass air flow meter and you essentially lean out the engine.
- Check and inspect the mass air flow meter inside for obvious dirt built up.
- Check all parts for visual damage, tears, broken bits etc.
- Check fuel pressure, change filter to make sure.

Any competent mechanic should be able to carry out the above in 20-30 minutes.
A competent mechanic with a proper Ford Specific OBD analyser is likely to find the problem in 20-30 seconds.

In my experience with Fiesta's I would say the air leak after the mass air flow meter, fuel or an electronic problem (ignition advance, wonky altitude compensation etc) are the most likely candidates. But then again, it could be something completely different.

Good luck

Jeroen

[Ashok Naik]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

You say they did a ids scan? If it was a proper Ford authorised shop, they would have had a Ford Fiesta specific OBD analyser. Even though the CEL is not on that doesn't mean much. There could still be codes. Also, those analysers have a lot of dynamic testing capabilities and this is a typical problem you find by looking at laptop with the correct diagnostic software.

So I would make absolutely sure that they had the right analytical equipment and competence to deal with this. If not, go and find somebody that does. Trust me, it will save time and money in the end.

Alternatively you can go with the trusted Team BHP method also known as the hit or miss method and start changing out everything. I doubt very much that engine flush, oil change and the likes will make a difference.

Lack of low rev pick up could be a host of different things. Some, not all, will throw codes, but not necessarily a CEL.

There are a few things you could checked/do that are relatively easy and cheap and could be the cause of lack of low rev pick up:

- Check and clean the air inlet filter.
- Check the whole air inlet circuit up to especially after the mass air flow meter for little tears, anything loose. If there is any air drawn in here it won't be measured by the mass air flow meter and you essentially lean out the engine.
- Check and inspect the mass air flow meter inside for obvious dirt built up.
- Check all parts for visual damage, tears, broken bits etc.
- Check fuel pressure, change filter to make sure.

Any competent mechanic should be able to carry out the above in 20-30 minutes.
A competent mechanic with a proper Ford Specific OBD analyser is likely to find the problem in 20-30 seconds.

In my experience with Fiesta's I would say the air leak after the mass air flow meter, fuel or an electronic problem (ignition advance, wonky altitude compensation etc) are the most likely candidates. But then again, it could be something completely different.

Good luck

Jeroen

Hello Mr. Jeroen,

Is there a Mass Air Flow sensor in the Fiesta 1.6? If yes, what is its utility? Even I thought that changing engine oil and engine flushing would be futile because in a petrol engine lack of acceleration in low gears is definitely an air-circulation -related issue.

Is there a Mass Air Flow meter in every petrol car? And does the OBD scanner tool provide all these data(air flow, fuel pressure, temperature etc.) to a mechanic? Can I check these data at my home on my own car?

Regards,
Ashok.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Ashok Naik

Is there a Mass Air Flow meter in every petrol car? And does the OBD scanner tool provide all these data(air flow, fuel pressure, temperature etc.) to a mechanic? Can I check these data at my home on my own car?
.

If it is a petrol car with no carburator, essentially yes, it will have some mass air flow meter.

Rroughly speaking there are two OBD variants. There are OBD readers that can read all the so called generic codes. And there are readers that can, in addition, read manufacturer specific codes.

Anything in your car, engine, transmission, GPS with any type of sensor or read out capabillity is hooked up to the Various onboard computers. You will often see the term ECU used on this forum. Most cars have multiple on board computers and even the engine management system migh reside in multiple physically seperate boxes/computers.

All these OBD scanners are available for the DIY mechanic too. You just need to purchase the correct hardware, cables and software. There is an OBD thread on this forum with a lot of usefull information. The more advanced OBD analyzer do more than read the error codes. They also provide a wealth on life data and all sort of parameters on the engine etc.

A small word of caution. Even though the term generic OBD codes suggest they are the same for all cars, in practice this is not true. So for instance the code P1190 means something different on a Jeep, compared to a Ford, compared to say a Swift. I have found the same for manufacurer specific codes. So next to the code reader/analyzer you need to have access to the correct table of OBD or DTC codes as they are known. Lots of that on the Internet, although for some Indian cars it might be a bit of a challenge.
The sort of analysers used by professional workshops will always by car/model specific. It will through the code, but often provide additional trouble shoot guidance and other measurement to take.

Jeroen

[Ashok Naik]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

If it is a petrol car with no carburator, essentially yes, it will have some mass air flow meter.

Rroughly speaking there are two OBD variants. There are OBD readers that can read all the so called generic codes. And there are readers that can, in addition, read manufacturer specific codes.

Anything in your car, engine, transmission, GPS with any type of sensor or read out capabillity is hooked up to the Various onboard computers. You will often see the term ECU used on this forum. Most cars have multiple on board computers and even the engine management system migh reside in multiple physically seperate boxes/computers.

All these OBD scanners are available for the DIY mechanic too. You just need to purchase the correct hardware, cables and software. There is an OBD thread on this forum with a lot of usefull information. The more advanced OBD analyzer do more than read the error codes. They also provide a wealth on life data and all sort of parameters on the engine etc.

A small word of caution. Even though the term generic OBD codes suggest they are the same for all cars, in practice this is not true. So for instance the code P1190 means something different on a Jeep, compared to a Ford, compared to say a Swift. I have found the same for manufacurer specific codes. So next to the code reader/analyzer you need to have access to the correct table of OBD or DTC codes as they are known. Lots of that on the Internet, although for some Indian cars it might be a bit of a challenge.
The sort of analysers used by professional workshops will always by car/model specific. It will through the code, but often provide additional trouble shoot guidance and other measurement to take.

Jeroen

Thank you Mr. Jeroen,

That was extremely helpful. I have gone through this article on the forum-OBD Diagnostics for Indian Cars. The OBD scanner costs a lot-close to 3.5 lakhs. I have seen the Tech II scanner and it looks like a Tablet. But it is very highly priced. I wanted to buy one such equipment.

Why are these OBD scanners so highly priced? Infact you can buy a super computer for that price.

Regards,
Ashok.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Ashok Naik

Why are these OBD scanners so highly .

Not sure. In Europe/USA you can buy a simple handheld OBD reader for anything from Euro 20-30 upwards. Looks like a multimeter.

I have also the software from Autoengenuity. Basic software package cost $250. For every car/model you add you pay another $200-250. So it does add up. But then you get the same diagnostic capabilities as any mainstream Dealer workshop would have.

In the USA the Jaguar dealer would charge around $175 for an OBD check, so it's an easy Business Case. You only need to use it a few times and you are in the money so to speak

See http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attach...o-img_1875.jpg



There are also very simple dongle type devices that you just plug into the OBD port and they communicate with your smart phone. I have no experience with those, but quite a few members here seem to be using it.

So it really is a bit of what you are looking for, what functions, requirements, budget and some personal preferences.

Jeroen

[batterylow]

Originally Posted by Ashok Naik

The OBD scanner costs a lot-close to 3.5 lakhs. I have seen the Tech II scanner and it looks like a Tablet. But it is very highly priced. I wanted to buy one such equipment.

Why are these OBD scanners so highly priced? Infact you can buy a super computer for that price.

The OBD scanners that are expensive are because of the time/effort/money spent to obtain the data for many cars spread across various manufacturers.

If your idea is to have a reader to merely read the vehicle parameters I would recommend a blue-tooth OBD dongle that you can buy off ebay or amazon, it will be hardly 10 dollars, pair it with an app like torque on your smart phone and you are good to go.

[E = mc²]

Thank you for the nuggets, everyone. He's been following this thread for a while. Will update the status once he comes home grinning

[ankurbhageria]

Hello folks

I have a Grand i10 Asta Petrol AT (2015 model)

Since the past 5 days, I have seen a noticeable decrease in the car's pickup. Earlier, the car had no problem hitting 130-140 but now it struggles to get past 100 (3,000 RPM)

I feel there is some issue with the automatic tranny box.

If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. I plan to visit HASS soon.

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

Hello folks

I have a Grand i10 Asta Petrol AT (2015 model)

Since the past 5 days, I have seen a noticeable decrease in the car's pickup. Earlier, the car had no problem hitting 130-140 but now it struggles to get past 100 (3,000 RPM)

I feel there is some issue with the automatic tranny box.

If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. I plan to visit HASS soon.

How many Km has your car clocked?

It might be needing a transmission fluid change as well. Otherwise, it seems that the transmission is slipping and not transferring torque effectively.

BTW, are you sure it's the gearbox and not the engine? If the gearbox is shifting smoothly, then you also have to get the engine checked. Your car might have gone into limp home mode as well.

Is the car doing the speeds you want it to do at a certain RPM in top gear or is there an increase in revs with no corresponding increase in speeds?
In the former case, it is the engine at fault, and the gearbox might be the culprit in the latter.

[ankurbhageria]

Originally Posted by vishy76

How many Km has your car clocked?

It might be needing a transmission fluid change as well. Otherwise, it seems that the transmission is slipping and not transferring torque effectively.

BTW, are you sure it's the gearbox and not the engine? If the gearbox is shifting smoothly, then you also have to get the engine checked. Your car might have gone into limp home mode as well.

Is the car doing the speeds you want it to do at a certain RPM in top gear or is there an increase in revs with no corresponding increase in speeds?
In the former case, it is the engine at fault, and the gearbox might be the culprit in the latter.

The car is sparingly used and has clocked 16,000 kms. It is mostly a start stop start stop field usage pattern.

I think it is the gearbox because at 3,000 RPM, it hits around 100 kmph. The only difference is that it now takes a lot longer to hit that 100. Even starting off from zero to 10 kmph feels like a big lag.

[ajmat]

Take it for a drive on the highway, revv the nuts off it, blow the cobwebs out of the exhaust! Change the oil if not done within the past year.

[condor]

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

Grand i10 Asta Petrol AT (2015 model)
.. Since the past 5 days, I have seen a noticeable decrease in the car's pickup. Earlier, the car had no problem hitting 130-140 but now it struggles to get past 100 (3,000 RPM)

I feel there is some issue with the automatic tranny box.

What all have you tried so far ? You are pretty fast in going after the AT box !!

Where did you fill fuel last ? Regular bunk or random ?

Do you rear brakes feel hot ? Check after a quick 2-3 km run.
( possible rear brakes are stuck )

When you go to the A.S.S, then let them find the issue - and not tell them it's the AT box problem.

Originally Posted by vishy76

It might be needing a transmission fluid change as well.

The car is 3 yrs old. AT fluid is worth about 10 yrs of use. Easily a lakh km of running, often 1.6L km

[aadya]

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

Hello folks

I have a Grand i10 Asta Petrol AT (2015 model)

Since the past 5 days, I have seen a noticeable decrease in the car's pickup. Earlier, the car had no problem hitting 130-140 but now it struggles to get past 100 (3,000 RPM)

I feel there is some issue with the automatic tranny box.

If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. I plan to visit HASS soon.

Check list to ponder upon
1.Fuel quality
2.Tyre pressure
3.Filters - Air, Engine oil, Fuel
4.Oil levels - Engine oil, Transmission oil
5. Hand brakes
6. Overdrive Off button
7.Regular service if not done
8.High revving in safe roads
9.System G like additives.

Note : 130-140/kmph is highly unsafe in any car/road in India. Drive Safe.

[scorpian]

I would go step by step to diagnose the issue, please don't mess with the Auto-box without looking at other factors first, you may self invite more harm then good by fiddling with AT.
Check Air filter, fuel from some other bunk, Brakes for binding.Driving once a while on the highway does help if your car is mainly used in city. I do not know if Hyundai recommends fuel additives, if they do then system g would help.

Please do let us know what finally resolved your issue to help others as well.