[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Recollecting my college level physics.

The longer the path the greater the resistance (how ever small it may be). Further longer paths have a bit more capacitance and induction compared to shorter path. All this goes towards reducing the surge without substantially dropping the voltage.

Distributed capacitance and inductance along conductors is well known, and where necessary taken into account. (And thus we have coax, twisted pair, etc). Normally relevant only at high frequencies. Not at all relevant here.
If one talks of reactive elements, the inductance of the selfstarter will surpass everything else. Its effects (on disconnection) will be felt by the solenoid contacts, and the winding insulation. And will not vary whether the the vehicle is started with its own battery or jumpstarted.

Regards
Sutripta

[phamilyman]

Originally Posted by Miyata

To avoid any unpleasant consequences is why we place the negative far enough away from any readily combustible gases (like hydrogen that might emerge from battery chemistry).

What is the electrical spark - just local gas/air ionization as a consequence of high enough electric field causing the breakdown.

Thanks.

But then why don't they simply give an unpainted terminal (like mercedes does) in the car. It wouldn't even cost them an additional 50 rupees. Just attach a metal tab to an unpainted portion. How hard is it?

Originally Posted by Sutripta

Safety trumps cranking! Hazards - safety item. Cranking - On the ground huge safety item - in a courtroom - no. Product liability lawyers will rule in this case.

(In a similar vein, what do you think of the fact that in many cars actuation of an airbag also immobilises the car).

The comparison is not valid. Your principle is valid but you can't stretch airbag activation logic all that far. Sorry.
Yes safety trumps cranking - but let's get into the detail.

I am simply saying that the car battery has enough juice for switching on the hazards, cabin light, dashboard, ICE and the headlight when the door is opened. You assume I had the hazards on while cranking. But I was NOT running the hazards and the headlight when I was trying to crank the car. Thats why your comparison is incorrect.

When I need to start the car, I need to press the brakes - at that time, if the ECU detects low voltage, how hard is it to switch off the dashboard, ICE and brake lights for the 5 seconds it takes for the car to crank up?

Switching off the tail/brake lights or operating them at the lower wattage isn't that much of a safety issue. Restarting a broken down car is just as important for safety as it is operating the brake light for 5 additional seconds.

I might be stretching my memory, but I think the Swift VDi used to do that. When my battery was weak, I distinctly recall the cabin light and dashboard going off while the car started.

Ford has to take thoughtful and consistent engineering decisions. On one side, every single electrical in the car remains on for hours, even when the key is taken out and the car is locked. Therefore, you must be generous with battery sizes. But no, my car has a much smaller battery than the diesel. And if you cannot do that, you must reduce starter motor wattage so that cranking is unaffected due to inadvertent power drawdown (say by a hard wired dash camera). I don't recall the specifics but I recall from a decade back that different bikes had different starter motor current requirements.

Either ways, I don't care two hoots. For me, this is shoddy engineering. Ford makes inconsistent decisions AND saves cost while pushing the liability onto me.

Yesterday, my car was rear ended. As a result the boot light stayed on for an hour plus everytime. I couldn't sleep because I went down and switched the car every couple of hours.

Originally Posted by Sutripta

d) Don't use hazards for extended periods of time!

Disagree. What if you have a puncture and the spare is punctured as well? What is the point of a 5kg battery if it can't support hazard lights for that long. I would much rather buy cheap no name 200gm cycling flashers and put them in my car instead if that's all Ford engineering is capable of.

Originally Posted by audioholic

In the case of your Ford DCT, have you looked at this angle? I am not sure if the DCT is hydraulic or completely electric, but hazard lights alone might not drain the battery so much is my feeling. I can be wrong too.

The scenario you described happened with me on 30th December 2017. This case was much simpler. The car was locked and parked with no electrical item connected. Frankly I have put my phone to charge in the parked car for similar duration in the past. I will now desist from doing that.

[libranof1987]

Originally Posted by phamilyman

Ford has to take thoughtful and consistent engineering decisions. On one side, every single electrical in the car remains on for hours, even when the key is taken out and the car is locked.

I concur on how lousy this oversight is. Thankfully, the 12v socket on the new EcoSport is not always-on. What was Ford thinking earlier!

Yesterday, my car was rear ended. As a result the boot light stayed on for an hour plus everytime. I couldn't sleep because I went down and switched the car every couple of hours.

Did you consider taking out the bulb of the boot lamp? And/or possibly, the fuse?

[Miyata]

Originally Posted by phamilyman

why don't they simply give an unpainted terminal (like mercedes does) in the car. It wouldn't even cost them an additional 50 rupees. Just attach a metal tab to an unpainted portion. How hard is it?

Agree. That would be a good way to eliminate confusion and help customers better. Not sure why they don't just adopt such a policy.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by phamilyman

But then why don't they simply give an unpainted terminal (like mercedes does) in the car. It wouldn't even cost them an additional 50 rupees. Just attach a metal tab to an unpainted portion. How hard is it?

Originally Posted by Miyata

Agree. That would be a good way to eliminate confusion and help customers better. Not sure why they don't just adopt such a policy.

When manufactures are saving the cost of one 5-rupee string that attaches the parcel tray to the boot lid in a hatchback (one of those which raise the tray up when lid is opened), it is too much to expect a jump start terminal whose utility 90% of the people wouldn't understand!

[Sutripta]

@Phamilyman: The don't use hazards for a long time was attempt at being humorous. Other than that, I really can't make out what you are reading (and interpreting) in my posts. Sorry.

Regards
Sutripta

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by phamilyman

Yesterday, my car was rear ended. As a result the boot light stayed on for an hour plus everytime. I couldn't sleep because I went down and switched the car every couple of hours.

First thought came in my mind was that you could have disconnected the negative terminal of the battery instead of switching the car On and Off.

Originally Posted by libranof1987

Did you consider taking out the bulb of the boot lamp? And/or possibly, the fuse?

I don't know whether there is separate fuse for Boot lamp in Figo Aspire. Also I don't know how easy is it to remove the bulb?

[libranof1987]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

I don't know whether there is separate fuse for Boot lamp in Figo Aspire. Also I don't know how easy is it to remove the bulb?

The fuse map in the Owners' Manual will be a good guide.

The boot lamp, cabin lamp and side indicators (if equipped) are generally the easiest to remove. You just need to pry them open; you can do so with your fingers (at times, you might need a screwdriver to wedge).

[rayjaycleoful]

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B074DMMDVJ/..._PjeTEb2Q51C0G

Does anyone have any experience with this Amazon Basics jumper cable?
Has very mixed reviews, with most people saying it doesn't work at all.The specs are 8 gauge, 16 feet, 130 amps.
Context: Need a backup for the covid lockdown and then future use if required.

[AtheK]

Originally Posted by rayjaycleoful

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B074DMMDVJ/..._PjeTEb2Q51C0G

Does anyone have any experience with this Amazon Basics jumper cable?
Has very mixed reviews, with most people saying it doesn't work at all.The specs are 8 gauge, 16 feet, 130 amps.
Context: Need a backup for the covid lockdown and then future use if required.

I bought one from Amazon, not specifically this one but on similar lines and cost. It was absolute Rubbish, looked nice, but did not work even once. Stay away.

I eventually used a spare electric cable lying at home, the cable is very good quality, and i used the clamps from this good for nothing cable. Works like a charm, i have already used it to bring back around 7 cars to life in the apartment, and have been rewarded with few beers by respective owners goodwill (atleast the basic cost of cable has been covered) .

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by rayjaycleoful

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B074DMMDVJ/..._PjeTEb2Q51C0G



Does anyone have any experience with this Amazon Basics jumper cable?

Has very mixed reviews, with most people saying it doesn't work at all.The specs are 8 gauge, 16 feet, 130 amps.

Context: Need a backup for the covid lockdown and then future use if required.

How can a jumper cable not work? At worse, admittedly, it melts, but still, what is not working?

[AtheK]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

How can a jumper cable not work? At worse, admittedly, it melts, but still, what is not working?

The cheap cable burns out from inside when you try to crank the dead car, I guess the quality is rubbish of the cable used.

[R2D2]

Unfortunately these cables have thick insulators giving the impression of good quality and one that could take a 30-80 A load. But the conductor is very thin and it melts when the car is started. It's a rip off. Plenty such Chinese cables available on Amazon. Amazon Basic has jumper cables that should be of acceptable quality.

Buy a set of clamps and 4 meters (or more) of 4/3/2 AWG ( 5-6 sq. mm in metric, depending on the load i.e. size of engine to be jump started) **stranded** cable and make the jumper cables yourself. This is assuming you know soldering and/or clamping and have the tools to do it.

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by rayjaycleoful

Does anyone have any experience with this Amazon Basics jumper cable?
Has very mixed reviews, with most people saying it doesn't work at all.The specs are 8 gauge, 16 feet, 130 amps.
Context: Need a backup for the covid lockdown and then future use if required.

Lower gauge & longer length = more chances of the wire heating up & melting.

I use this one - 10 Gauge 12 feet Jumper cable

I have used it twice for starting 2 large cars (Jetta & Innova) with totally dead batteries. It worked absolutely fine & the wire was only mildly warm after usage. Not hot at all. So if you want to try from Amazon, use this one I'd suggest.

If you can get good Polycab (or similar) copper wires with high density 5 sq mm conductor & the clamps & create the set at home yourself - nothing like it. However - I suggest you also get some large tube shielding for this as otherwise the loose Polycab wires will keep on getting entangled all the time during storage.

[Aroy]

I suggest that you make your own cable.

1. 5m of 10 sq.mm. electrical cable.
2. 4 x Heavy duty clamps.
https://www.amazon.in/Alligator-Croc...8916916&sr=8-7

Go to a radiator repair shop, they have facility to solder the cables to the clamps.

Here is a chart of SWG vs mm.sq.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/a...uge-d_731.html

Here are few acceptable cables
https://www.amazon.in/AmazonBasics-J...s%2C292&sr=8-4