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Originally Posted by khoj Now that we have turned this into Thermodynamics 101, could you elaborate how the pressurized?? cap keeps the coolant from boiling and why the drop in boiling point would not matter(not that Hashim meant it that way, the gist of his statement being quite clear).
All these years I understood that the cap is designed like a last resort safety valve which will let out a required amount of steam+concentrate+hot water mix after all other safety features built into the system fail to keep things in check and when the system pressure continues to rise beyond a certain set value and restore sanity. Seems it is time to learn something new. |
all physics is nothing but laws of nature
a liquid starts boiling when it's internal vapor pressure equals atmospheric pressure. At this point the liquid kind of controls it's temperature by boiling off a lot of vapor. at mean sea level water does it at 100C. so you can never heat water beyond 100C at MSL, you can get superheated vapor though (.
at lower pressure, e.g. in Laddakh, the since the pressure is low, water starts boiling at lower temperature, since it's vapor pressure at say 95C equals the reduced pressure there. In other words you can not heat water to more than 95C in that area, and that makes cooking so difficult.
at high pressure (e.g. pressure cooker), you can actually increase the temperature to a much higher degree by not allowing water to boil, and hence to self control it's temperature. That makes cooking so easier.
Similarly, in vehicle's cooling syste, by pressurizing, you are letting the liquid heat to a much higher degree, thereby increasing it's capacity to take heat out of the system, and disperse it into radiator. If it's not pressurized:
1. the liquid will soon evoparate into atmosphere, needing frequent refills. remember old cars
2. will be less efficient since it is carrying less heat out.
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Originally Posted by Hashim Let me explain what I meant actually, we all know plain water boiling temp. is 100 deg. C so if we put plain water in radiator, it should start boiling as soon as it reaches 100 deg., now our "Coolant" is increasing boiling temp. of plain water to say 500 deg. C then it won't boil at 100 deg. so its doing good for us |
so you did mean
increase boiling temp. But as I mentioned above, we use pressurization as the effective technique to handle high temperature, and not depend on additives.
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Originally Posted by fordday This is my first post in t-bhp. I have a 2001 Ikon 1.6 zxi. For the last few months there were coolant leakages (few drops a day) from the thermostat housing. Went to fng, when he opened it, saw that the thermostat gasket is completely gone. He sealed it with Anabond but said it will need replacement soon.
Last week after a 5 km drive, saw coolant dripping all the way. Opened the hood, coolant and vapour coming out of the sides of the coolant tank cap. This meant it acts similar to safety valve in pressure cooker. Cap was still tight but too hot for touch. After 5 mins when I restarted the engine there was again vapour coming out from the sides of the cap. Went Lathangi ford, had to replace Thermostat, ECT, connection water out and refilled coolant. They said the coolant level went too low and it got overheated. In a typical ford a** way they billed me for about 7k. |
if you saw radiator cap leaking out the coolant, that was wrong. It should leak
into the reservoir, not outside completely. either your radiaor cap, or the opening where it's fits on the radiator is faulty.