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Old 6th November 2015, 20:32   #2476
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

My 2014 verna crdi was making a creaking noise from rear parcel tray left side. Was diagnosed as weld issue. Dropped the car today morning at Modi Hyundai Goregaon.
Estimated time three days for repairs.
Now this issue has been reported on online forums since 2012. What is Hyundai quality control doing ? Those folks are either sleeping or in coma . Will never buy Hyundai again.
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Old 6th November 2015, 22:37   #2477
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

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Originally Posted by M124 View Post
My 2014 verna crdi was making a creaking noise from rear parcel tray left side. Was diagnosed as weld issue. Dropped the car today morning at Modi Hyundai Goregaon.
Estimated time three days for repairs.
Now this issue has been reported on online forums since 2012. What is Hyundai quality control doing ? Those folks are either sleeping or in coma . Will never buy Hyundai again.
Hope this doesn't compromise the structural integrity/rigidity or alignment of the car. A need for a weld mostly means there is a break in either the frame or some other part of the car skeleton. Highly unacceptable....
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Old 14th November 2015, 23:54   #2478
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If any one has changed the battery, please inform the kind of signs shown by the car just before the replacement.
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Old 15th November 2015, 00:21   #2479
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I am asking so because something peculiar happened to me today. I had to drive 200 km today. I drove 130 km nonstop & then took a pause for 10 minutes. When I tried to start the car after the pause, the car behaved as if the battery had been discharged. But eventually the car stared but it took a prolonged cranking. The problem started there after. The car did not pick up speed, kept on misfiring / behaved like having a jammed fuel line. The yellow indicator for malfunctioning kept on blinking. After driving for 5 min I stopped again & stated the car and it happened normally. Now the car ran normally too but the yellow indicator did not stop blinking. On the way I got the battery checked by an Exide dealer who said that the battery is fully charged. Then I stopped for 30 Min on the way after which the yellow indicator stopped blinking. I took the car to the dealer workshop where they conducted a scan & did not find any fault. The SA advised to take the car to Exide service again for a battery check up. I straight away replaced the battery with a new one. The old one was the original battery which did it's duty for 4yrs and 2 months.
At the first pause both the trips were automatically reset to zero as if the battery got disconnected. I have no doubts of any loose connections of the battery terminals.

Do you think if there is anything other than the battery. How did the battery failed to provide power after a continous run of 130 km that too during the daytime ie without the headlights on. How the car stated normally after the first stop?

Any pointers please. After battery replacement, the cranking time has reduced considerably.
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Old 15th November 2015, 12:00   #2480
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Bb
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chitta Pradhan View Post
I am asking so because something peculiar happened to me today. I had to drive 200 km today. I drove 130 km nonstop & then took a pause for 10 minutes. When I tried to start the car after the pause, the car behaved as if the battery had been discharged. But eventually the car stared but it took a prolonged cranking. The problem started there after. The car did not pick up speed, kept on misfiring / behaved like having a jammed fuel line. The yellow indicator for malfunctioning kept on blinking. After driving for 5 min I stopped again & stated the car and it happened normally. Now the car ran normally too but the yellow indicator did not stop blinking. On the way I got the battery checked by an Exide dealer who said that the battery is fully charged. Then I stopped for 30 Min on the way after which the yellow indicator stopped blinking. I took the car to the dealer workshop where they conducted a scan & did not find any fault. The SA advised to take the car to Exide service again for a battery check up. I straight away replaced the battery with a new one. The old one was the original battery which did it's duty for 4yrs and 2 months.
At the first pause both the trips were automatically reset to zero as if the battery got disconnected. I have no doubts of any loose connections of the battery terminals.

Do you think if there is anything other than the battery. How did the battery failed to provide power after a continuous run of 130 km that too during the daytime ie without the headlights on. How the car stated normally after the first stop?

Any pointers please. After battery replacement, the cranking time has reduced considerably.
This issue normally relates to power malfunction associated with ecu. But since scanning didn't throw any errors. It's safe to say that the battery was not able to supply proper voltage or continuous power. And when the battery was replaced it must have reset the ecu and it cleared errors and the blinking light was gone

Last edited by sunilsoft : 15th November 2015 at 12:07.
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Old 15th November 2015, 13:38   #2481
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Guys..I have a 2014 Verna 1.6 SX. When I bought it, I had a samsung Galaxy S2 smartphone. It synced my contacts via bluetooth seamlessly and I used to call and answer my phone calls through the car stereo.
Recently, I had to buy a Samsung Galaxy note 3 neo because the S2 broke.
I have tried to connect the phone with the car via bluetooth but it just doesn't connect.
Any suggestions?
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Old 15th November 2015, 15:11   #2482
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

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Originally Posted by nda992 View Post
Guys..I have a 2014 Verna 1.6 SX. When I bought it, I had a samsung Galaxy S2 smartphone. It synced my contacts via bluetooth seamlessly and I used to call and answer my phone calls through the car stereo.
Recently, I had to buy a Samsung Galaxy note 3 neo because the S2 broke.
I have tried to connect the phone with the car via bluetooth but it just doesn't connect.
Any suggestions?
Remove all the earlier pairings on your car's HU as well as on your phone. Then switch on the blue tooth of both and try to pair, it should be a breeze. Recently I brought a TUV3OO and my android was not at all paring with the car's bluetooth, then I tried the above tick and it paired flawlessly in the first attempt.
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Old 28th November 2015, 09:03   #2483
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

Hi everyone! I have a 2014 1.6 Verna. My family had gone on a 600 km trip for a wedding in the Verna & yesterday while coming back the car's front right tyre got punctured. The car was in Chandigarh at that moment. When my brother got on to removing the wheel it got stuck. I mean the car was jacked up & all 4 wheel nuts removed but the wheel wasnt coming out despite the effort. My brother then went to a nearby petrol pump which had a tyre repair shop & explained the problem to the puncture wala, he apparently agreed to come along & said that 'Verna jab bahut der tak chalti hai toh jo wheel hai voh andar hub se chipak jaata hai'(when the Verna runs for some distance the wheel kind of gets joined with the wheel hub). When my brother told me this I didnt understand the logic but when that guy got down to removing the wheel even he wasnt able to, then he took a hammer & slammed the wheel from the inside 4-5 times & then it came out. I am surprised by this, if what he said is true then its kind of scary. What if the car was on a lonely highway? or the puncture happened in the middle of the night?

Fellow members are welcome with their inputs
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Old 28th November 2015, 11:38   #2484
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

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Originally Posted by trinity0114 View Post
Fellow members are welcome with their inputs
Car rims often become oxidized and stuck in place. This happens wheels are not rotated, changed or removed for any kind of maintenance. This can happen to any car wheel.

Quote:
Oxidation of metals
Most metals are oxidized by the oxygen in air. This process is called corrosion. Electrons leap from the metal to the oxygen molecules. The negative oxygen ions which are thus formed penetrate into the metal, causing the growth of an oxide surface. As the oxide layer grows the rate of electron transfer decreases. The corrosion stops and the metal is made passive. The oxidation process may continue, however, if the electrons succeed in entering the metal through cracks or impurities in the metal or if the oxide layer is dissolved.

Source
In such a case, if you have a lubricant like WD40 on hand, you could spray the lubricant to the affect areas and pry the wheel out.

However, before your use force, please ensure that the jack is stable, the car is in gear and hand brake is engaged. Safety must be always given priority.

Cheers

KPS
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Old 28th November 2015, 11:51   #2485
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

Quote:
When my brother got on to removing the wheel it got stuck. I mean the car was jacked up & all 4 wheel nuts removed but the wheel wasnt coming out despite the effort.
Hey,
Similar kind of incident happened to me with my elite i20. It was middle of night and the roads were kindly lonely so i was bit scared too.

I tried very hard but the tyre refused to come out. I even tried looking at the manual but no help.

Then i hit the upper and lower area of tyre from outside in patterns and it feel off automatically. Next day when i was getting the puncture repaired, the tyrewala said that the best thing to do when tyre get stuck is hit it in patterns like i did and it will come off.
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Old 28th November 2015, 13:55   #2486
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

Quote:
Originally Posted by KPS View Post
Car rims often become oxidized and stuck in place. This happens wheels are not rotated, changed or removed for any kind of maintenance. This can happen to any car wheel.

In such a case, if you have a lubricant like WD40 on hand, you could spray the lubricant to the affect areas and pry the wheel out.
KPS
My car has run for around 21k kms & every 5k kms wheel balancing & alignment have been done & every 10k kms tyre rotation done. As a matter of fact the wheel alignment, balancing & tyre rotation was done just last week at the 20k km mark. So that way things are ok but still this happened

Quote:
Originally Posted by Piyush46 View Post
Then i hit the upper and lower area of tyre from outside in patterns and it feel off automatically. Next day when i was getting the puncture repaired, the tyrewala said that the best thing to do when tyre get stuck is hit it in patterns like i did and it will come off.
Thanks! If this happens again I'll surely follow this
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Old 30th November 2015, 09:55   #2487
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

Hello,

As KPS has correctly mentioned, it is due to rims becoming oxidized over time. I have heard it happen to a few more cars, including a Honda City. The best way to avoid it is to ensure proper wheel rotation is done and check for any oxide accumulation when getting the wheel rotated. Certain weather conditions are likely to aggravate oxidation.
Also, if the wheel is stuck even after the precautions, the best way is to hit the diametrically opposite ends with sufficient force, like kicking a football.

But make sure you do not knock the car off the jack.

A couple of blows on each side will release the wheel for sure.
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Old 30th November 2015, 14:34   #2488
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

i have been driving a 2014 1.6 CRDI AT from last 1.5 years in bangalore city. Last week when i was driving, i realized the engine just stopped when it was at the speed of 40 kmph and i neatly pulled over safely because i had enough time till it came to a complete halt. When i immediately tried starting the engine with few continuous cranks, it failed. I took out the key and gave it like 20 seconds and then the engine started during the next attempt.

Can anyone help me understand why such a thing can happen? This is happening for the 2nd time in last 1.5 years.I don't think it should be the fuel quality because i have been going to Shell and none of my other cars stopped suddenly while driving.
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Old 30th November 2015, 14:42   #2489
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re: Review: 2nd-gen Hyundai Verna (2011)

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Originally Posted by santhosh_lv View Post
I don't think it should be the fuel quality
You have a problem with clogged injectors, bad batteries, clogged fuel pump.
Keep a watch on your engine temperature.
I strongly suspect some electrical problem over the others as you use fuel from shell.
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Old 30th November 2015, 22:24   #2490
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I drive a dec 2014 Verna SX CRDi which has run 25144 Kms as of today. Just came home after a trip to Pondy and Chennai about 1050 Kms. As I was driving back to Bengaluru this evening, I realised that the brakes were making a grinding sound as I applied them. No difference in stopping power whatsoever but that sound is quite scary. Makes a huge grinding sound as I press the brake pedal. What could it be??? Going for 3rd free service tomorrow.
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