Team-BHP - Does anyone buy a Honda City anymore?! Oops! I did-and fell in love with it!!
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-   -   Does anyone buy a Honda City anymore?! Oops! I did-and fell in love with it!! (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-drives-initial-ownership-reports/103180-does-anyone-buy-honda-city-anymore-oops-i-did-fell-love-11.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by charthom (Post 2398320)
I opted for AN Honda City V AT Exclusive Urban Titanium. I opted for only the leather seats and leather wrapped steering wheel. I could feel a slight enthusiasm in the Exec’s voice to convince me that V version is enough-they will do the Stanley job for me for 20000/-only. But an aftermarket seat cover, be it Stanley, will reduce the leg room by about 10cms at least. Also no-one can give that original feeling of factory fitted leather wrapped steering. Hence I decided upon the Exclusive version.

Quote:

Originally Posted by charthom (Post 2404231)

Confirmed from Honda-They have a tie up with Stanley-the OE leather is pure Stanley leather done by Stanley.

Charthom, just looking through the above statements – isn’t it a bit contradicting? If the OE leather (of exclusive trim) is from Stanley, what difference it make from an aftermarket fitment (from Stanley itself)?

Note: I am not nitpicking, just doing some research around for a possible car upgrade. And your thread is one of the reference point. Thanks for your help :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by charthom (Post 2409546)
@libranof1987,

Have you checked out the the rear arm rest photos?They look like original design.BTW,the new Avatar is nice.

@kirantp,

What libran is suggesting is that you too begin a fresh ownership and test drive thread of your own under "test drives and initial onership reports", like say, mine.
It will be very interesting.We are all eagerly waiting for the same.

@Charthom: Sure will do very soon. I am currently working on my 1st travelogue after getting my ANHC so will start my thread with that :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by vb-san (Post 2410387)
Charthom, just looking through the above statements – isn’t it a bit contradicting? If the OE leather (of exclusive trim) is from Stanley, what difference it make from an aftermarket fitment (from Stanley itself)?

Note: I am not nitpicking, just doing some research around for a possible car upgrade. And your thread is one of the reference point. Thanks for your help

@vb-san,thanks for analysing my thread and posts so closely.I am not sure but have a feeling that after market fitments fetch the SE some probable commission.So I have observed, many of them will always suggest you choose the cheaper vesrion and then fit what you want.

As I personally observed,the original seat was softer and the leg room was more than the after market one.And no one can do a proper after market steering job for you,remember.You may compare them at Peninsular Honda-please revert with your observations.

Nice to note that you are planning an upgrade.Come back with the story soon.:)

I will be most happy to offer any further assistance reqd.

@kirantp,eagerly waiting for your travelogue and test drive.:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by libranof1987 (Post 2410010)
I generally do let the engine stabilize before moving; but not a minute maybe. I let the car idle for ~15 seconds and then start moving.

Just cranking the engine and immediately driving is not really good for the engine. I've seen people in NCR who start the car, turn on the a/c and zoom off; all within a few seconds.

I let the engine warm up for atleast 20 secs. Will turn it on, put the seat belt, wear my sunglasses, lock the doors and then start off :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by charthom (Post 2410428)
@vb-san,thanks for analysing my thread and posts so closely.I am not sure but have a feeling that after market fitments fetch the SE some probable commission.So I have observed, many of them will always suggest you choose the cheaper vesrion and then fit what you want.

As I personally observed,the original seat was softer and the leg room was more than the after market one. And no one can do a proper after market steering job for you,remember.You may compare them at Peninsular Honda-please revert with your observations.

Nice to note that you are planning an upgrade.Come back with the story soon.:)

I will be most happy to offer any further assistance reqd.

That’s good to know. Thanks Charthom.

I have sent an email to Peninsular Honda asking some details on the Honda Jazz. Do you think Peninsular Honda is better than Cosmic Honda?

Quote:

Originally Posted by kirantp (Post 2410781)
I let the engine warm up for atleast 20 secs. Will turn it on, put the seat belt, wear my sunglasses, lock the doors and then start off :)

@kirantp,sudeepg,libranof1987,Sn1p3r,please note the following about engine warming up. Start the engine,keep it on idle or on "no load" for sufficiently long so that the exhaust gas temperature stabilises.

Initially upon starting the engine,the exhaust temperature will be very low-as the engine runs it increases steadily.At a point the exhaust temperature will remain stable without further increase.Now the engine is ready for "manoeuvring or taking load" without abnormal thermal load or heat stresses acting on it.This is the point at which you may engage the transmission and roll out the car.

This is more important in the case of Diesel cars where the compression ignition causes a lot of shock loads to be generated in the engine and transmitted to the engine components.

I have no clue how long will it take for the 1.5 L,i-VTEC engine to stabilise.However, if possible,idling for at least 5 minutes at the initial start in the morning will do good in long run. Then you will particularly notice far less corrosion on the exhaust manifold, silencer and pipe.

Hope you will agree with me.

Rgds,charthom.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vb-san (Post 2410965)
That’s good to know. Thanks Charthom.

I have sent an email to Peninsular Honda asking some details on the Honda Jazz. Do you think Peninsular Honda is better than Cosmic Honda?

@vb-san,never been to Cosmic Honda.So can't comment.However I suggest you check out both places.At Peninsular Honda, Leena has been helpful.

Rgds,charthom.

For ANHC there is a blue colored "C" symbol on the instrument cluster that lights up when the engine is cold. It goes away once the engine has achieved the required temperature. Usually for me this happens by the time i take out my car from the house. You can use that as an indicator for seeing that the idle temperature is achieved. Also for the rule of thumb i keep the speed below 40 for firs 5 minutes of the drive. This lets the engine settle to its normal operating temperature.

Quote:

Originally Posted by charthom (Post 2411085)
I have no clue how long will it take for the 1.5 L,i-VTEC engine to stabilise.However, if possible,idling for at least 5 minutes at the initial start in the morning will do good in long run.

5 minutes is way too long to idle a car IMHO. It will unnecessary consume the fuel. As zoom_vroom said one must refer to the cold engine temperature light, as soon as it goes off you are good to go.

I don't think that an advanced Honda i-VTEC engine will require 5 minutes of idling. Let me refer to the manual to see what it says.

EDIT - I couldn't find anything in the manual related to cold start procedure except for what is mentioned on page 195 but i doesn't state if idling is required before taking off. So I guess we should follow the traditional procedure of idling it for 10-30 seconds or refer to cold engine indicator and the takeoff.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zoom_vroom (Post 2411462)
For ANHC there is a blue colored "C" symbol on the instrument cluster that lights up when the engine is cold. It goes away once the engine has achieved the required temperature. Also for the rule of thumb i keep the speed below 40 for firs 5 minutes of the drive. This lets the engine settle to its normal operating temperature.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluevolt (Post 2411511)
5 minutes is way too long to idle a car IMHO. It will unnecessary consume the fuel. As zoom_vroom said one must refer to the cold engine temperature light, as soon as it goes off you are good to go.
I guess we should follow the traditional procedure of idling it for 10-30 seconds or refer to cold engine indicator and the takeoff.

@zoom_vroom and bluevolt,

What I tried to explain was the theoretical case.As both of you have correctly pointed out the C symbol may be be taken as the indication.Then as zoom_vroom suggested speed below 40 for the first 5 minutes will be an added precaution.

If you can feel moisture at your exhaust outlet,it indicates that the engine is not warmed up sufficiently.

bluevolt-as you correctly said who can afford to idle the engine for 5 mts and waste the precious fuel?:) But as we all will agree,a little extra precaution taken during the initial stage will go a long way in helping the car and components last for longer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluevolt (Post 2411511)
5 minutes is way too long to idle a car IMHO. It will unnecessary consume the fuel. As zoom_vroom said one must refer to the cold engine temperature light, as soon as it goes off you are good to go.

EDIT - I couldn't find anything in the manual related to cold start procedure except for what is mentioned on page 195 but i doesn't state if idling is required before taking off. So I guess we should follow the traditional procedure of idling it for 10-30 seconds or refer to cold engine indicator and the takeoff.

Quote:

Originally Posted by charthom (Post 2411085)
@kirantp,sudeepg,libranof1987,Sn1p3r,please note the following about engine warming up. Start the engine,keep it on idle or on "no load" for sufficiently long so that the exhaust gas temperature stabilises.

Initially upon starting the engine,the exhaust temperature will be very low-as the engine runs it increases steadily.At a point the exhaust temperature will remain stable without further increase.Now the engine is ready for "manoeuvring or taking load" without abnormal thermal load or heat stresses acting on it.This is the point at which you may engage the transmission and roll out the car.

This is more important in the case of Diesel cars where the compression ignition causes a lot of shock loads to be generated in the engine and transmitted to the engine components.

I have no clue how long will it take for the 1.5 L,i-VTEC engine to stabilise.However, if possible,idling for at least 5 minutes at the initial start in the morning will do good in long run. Then you will particularly notice far less corrosion on the exhaust manifold, silencer and pipe.

Hope you will agree with me.

Rgds,charthom.
Rgds,charthom.

@Charthom, @Bluevolt: I tested the cold engine indicator method this morning. When I started the engine for the 1st time in the mornin, it took approx 1 min and 20 secs for the cold engine indicator to turn off. So I guess depending on the weather conditions and what time of the day you are turning on the engine, the time for the cold engine ind to go off may vary from say 30 secs upto 1.5 mins.

+1

Me too checked this evening.The turning off of cold engine indicator may be safely taken as the point at which the engine is ready to run.Then as zoom_vroom pointed out,a little bit of less loading initially will be ideal too.

BTw,this evening with no rains, my FE in city running was 9.7 kpl.I am relieved that it is improving.

w.r.t. the cold start, you may notice that the new age engines ECU makes sure that you get the engine heated up faster.

In winters the car cold idles at 1500 then comes down to 1200 and if you do not move still then it comes down to 800 rpm. In hot summers it takes the same amount of time and thus starts at 1200 and then settles at 800rpm. Now the time is most important for all and I think ECU keeps it at 1.5 minutes.

Everyone agrees that idles is not the best state to have your engine running with its inherent issues.

I think the best way is to let the *C go off and then drive slow without too much load.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sn1p3r (Post 2412349)
w.r.t. the cold start, you may notice that the new age engines ECU makes sure that you get the engine heated up faster.

In winters the car cold idles at 1500 then comes down to 1200 and if you do not move still then it comes down to 800 rpm. In hot summers it takes the same amount of time and thus starts at 1200 and then settles at 800rpm. Now the time is most important for all and I think ECU keeps it at 1.5 minutes.

Everyone agrees that idles is not the best state to have your engine running with its inherent issues.

I think the best way is to let the *C go off and then drive slow without too much load.

@Sn1p3r,This indeed is very good information.Thanks for sharing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by charthom (Post 2412328)
BTw,this evening with no rains, my FE in city running was 9.7 kpl.I am relieved that it is improving.

As the car is new it will give low mileage for first 500-1000 Kms after that it will improve steadily. You may also note that the engine heats up a little more than usual as it is new, this may be felt on touching the bonnet (the radiator fan cycles more frequently than normal) after driving for few kilometers but it is absolutely normal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluevolt (Post 2412361)
As the car is new it will give low mileage for first 500-1000 Kms after that it will improve steadily. You may also note that the engine heats up a little more than usual as it is new, this may be felt on touching the bonnet (the radiator fan cycles more frequently than normal) after driving for few kilometers but it is absolutely normal.

Thanks for the tip,bluevolt.Taking her for first service on 4th.


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