[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Akshay1234

My point in this case is that all this has nothing to do with the turbo being healthy or not.

Quoting from GTO's thread on Idling Rule -

When Starting Off (especially in the morning):

• Be gentle to your car when she's cold. Maintain a low rpm level (below 2,000) until the engine has reached operating temperature. This warm-up period isn’t just good for the engine & turbo-charger; gradual warm-up is also beneficial to other components (transmission, brakes, tyres etc.). The procedure is recommended for naturally-aspirated cars as well.

Quoting from Turbocharger Maintenance 101

The first thing that causes rapid wear and stress to a turbocharger is simply starting the cars engine and driving off. Today's car is a very sophisticated machine that is very easy to operate, just turn the key, drop it into gear and you are on your way. There are hundreds of things that happen in a matter of seconds from the time you start the car, and one of the most important is the flow of oil coming from the oil pump to the turbocharger. When your engine is first started, there is a very slight delay until the oil being pumped from the engine's oil pan reaches the turbocharger. In that amount of time, the turbocharger is already spinning many times faster than the engine. We know that the oil is the only lubricant for the turbo, so it is very important that it is being delivered quickly and efficiently to keep from damaging the bearings in the turbocharger.

I hope these points are sufficient to settle the issue regarding the benefits of idling at cold start for the turbocharger, at least for me. Rest you are free to learn from your own experiences.

Cheers...

[Akshay1234]

Originally Posted by dkaile

Quoting from GTO's thread on Idling Rule -

I hope these points are sufficient to settle the issue regarding the benefits of idling at cold start for the turbocharger, at least for me. Rest you are free to learn from your own experiences.

Cheers...

I am not debating the benefits of idling for a tubo. I am well aware of that.

What I am talking about is this

Originally Posted by dkaile

Other then that see how the car idles to check the turbo. Ideally the car should settle into a nice smooth idle within 30 seconds from a cold start. This will indicate a trouble free turbo charger.

How is the gent supposed to figure out if the turbo is trouble free just from an idle?

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Akshay1234

How is the gent supposed to figure out if the turbo is trouble free just from an idle?

Hahaha, OK, so now it's back to that. Then kindly read in conjunction with this then -

Which needs to be further validated by a longish test drive in which you can really feel the turbo kick in while accelerating. These are two ways to check that the turbo is working properly.

I think you are trying to prolong a non-issue. In my experience, a smooth settling idle, points to a car with all it's crucial components working well, including the turbocharger, otherwise you will definitely be hearing some abnormal noises from damaged turbo charger bearings etc. That these have to be validated further is a no brainer. This was my point based on 'my' experience'. Your experience maybe different. Feel free to express it but I don't feel the need to agree with it and vice versa.

Cheers...

[Akshay1234]

Originally Posted by dkaile

Hahaha, OK, so now it's back to that. Then kindly read in conjunction with this then -

I think you are trying to prolong a non-issue. In my experience, a smooth settling idle, points to a car with all it's crucial components working well, including the turbocharger, otherwise you will definitely be hearing some abnormal noises from damaged turbo charger bearings etc. That these have to be validated further is a no brainer. This was my point based on 'my' experience'. Your experience maybe different. Feel free to express it but I don't feel the need to agree with it and vice versa.

Cheers...

No I am done. Just wanted a technical explanation how idling can tell you about a turbo working well, I was genuinely curious since I am hearing about this for the first time. But if it is anecdotal rather than based on facts, then I will not pursue it further.

In my experience, checking idling for working turbo is like checking idling to know if the suspension is tight.

I must say your vehicles are looking fresh even after years, with your care. So keep it up

[avinash_clt]

Originally Posted by neoonwheels

1. Water pump replacement - Seen quite a few with this done in their service history. Looks like a common issue across 1.8 tsi and 2.0 tdi (My Jetta also has this replaced).

Water pumps issues are common with the EA888 1.8TSI. They are more complex, expensive and difficult to replace than in the 2.0TDI. However, by virtue of how they draw power (via the gearbox side end of one of the balancer shafts), their failure is not as critical compared to water pumps failing in 2.0TDI engines (which draw power via the timing belt itself).

So, if it seems to be working okay, nothing to worry. Leaks developed are usually slow and either coolant level or temp sensor of the Superb will pick it up before any major problems.

2. ABS Sensor - Not too common but can burn a hole in your pocket

Perennial problem with both Laura and Superb mk2. They were expensive, but since mid-2016, Skoda has been running discounts of around 70% when the wheel speed sensors were replaced as a set. In effect, 4 wheel speed sensors can be replaced for around Rs.4200 (parts cost), pretty cheap w.r.t any car. Would advice replacing them for low mileage cars / or those in coastal climates.

3. The headlight washer - I guess I read that you dont get even the metallic finished clip separately. If something goes wrong with this, you will have to replace whole headlight. Cost 35K

As mentioned already clips are available separately. Another problem is the filter/gauze inside the washers getting damaged and affecting the spray pattern. Instead of cleaning the headlamp, one could end up washing the two wheeler guy near you.

Personally I haven't found the headlamp washers to be that useful, and disabled it via VCDS/OBDeleven.

5. Battery - Again seen that battery on Superb and Jetta needs replacement every 2-3 years. May be since these cars have a lot of electronics.

The OE batteries for the car: Exide (Exide technologies , not the Indian Exide Industries) or the Varta doesn't cope well with our temperatures and thus fail prematurely. Better replaced with Amaron or the likes.

[lancer_rit]

Originally Posted by dkaile

Then let's agree to disagree 😊.

Cheers...

Sure, I am cool with that. Here is an interesting thread on tbhp that I found. Thought to post.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-a...ront-rear.html

[Turbanator]

Other then that see how the car idles to check the turbo. Ideally the car should settle into a nice smooth idle within 30 seconds from a cold start. This will indicate a trouble free turbo charger.

How is the gent supposed to figure out if the turbo is trouble free just from an idle?

I will agree with Akshay, it will be very difficult for anyone to know the condition of turbo just because of roughness at idle. As in most assemblies, it can be difficult to pinpoint causes without proper tools and instruments & there can be many reasons for a rough idle. As far as waiting for sometime after initial start is concerned, most of we petrolheads do this. All of my petrol cars, including 8 cylinder GX and 4 cylinders Innova start with higher RPM's and then settle at low, though this is not rough it's just loud though nothing similar on any of diesel ones I own.

After every wash, my car definitely sounds less and feel differently and many of us have observed an immediate change in engine sound after an oil change or shifting to synthetic or even adding some fuel additive. I firmly believe most of this is phycological & nothing more.

A smooth idle is something you 'hear' and feel, and you can definitely 'hear' a damaged turbocharger bearing at that!

I am sure you must have heard of the guys ( most old foreman at workshops) who will find a bearing issue by just a touch at the machine by feeling vibrations, have a look at this video, even though vibrations are high but these are entirely due to a different reason.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=838sWjDBjLg

But being a moderator, I hope you would have shown/ should show more discretion.

I have a great respect for you, the way you write and how you help others and surely you can be invited as a moderator someday. I am sure you are aware that most of the moderators are here due to their passion and not for any commercial interests and they do a great job in maintaining this forum in a way which does not happen anywhere else, so the least we can do is to question their status/ intent.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Akshay1234

In my experience, checking idling for working turbo is like checking idling to know if the suspension is tight.

I must say your vehicles are looking fresh even after years, with your care. So keep it up

No, it is not the same thing. Checking idling for turbo damage is necessary since you are able to hear the damaged turbo charger bearing. For checking the suspension you need a test drive.

Thanks for the comment on the car.

Cheers...

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by dkaile

No, it is not the same thing. Checking idling for turbo damage is necessary since you are able to hear the damaged turbo charger bearing. For checking the suspension you need a test drive.

Off idle, the turbo isn't spooled up or producing boost so how can you come to know if the bearings are bust and it's due to turbo? It could be coil pack or any such issues resulting in a gruff idle.

Unless you drive and see that it's not producing boost or is making funny sounds at load there's no way to make out. Infact turbo could have failed and you will still see idle is smooth. Only other thing is if it throws up blue smoke then you know there is an issue with the turbo seals.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Off idle, the turbo isn't spooled up or producing boost so how can you come to know if the bearings are bust and it's due to turbo? It could be coil pack or any such issues resulting in a gruff idle.

Unless you drive and see that it's not producing boost or is making funny sounds at load there's no way to make out. Infact turbo could have failed and you will still see idle is smooth. Only other thing is if it throws up blue smoke then you know there is an issue with the turbo seals.

Like I said earlier, damage to the turbo charger needs to be further validated by a test drive to really ascertain whether the turbo is kicking in properly or not. But vibration analysis is a important point to judge the health of the turbo and that starts from idle because the turbo charger is spinning and the oil is circulating in it even at idle. Quoting from http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...arger-problems

Vibration analysis can be used for general bearing problems... It will also pick up damaged blade or bad bearing...

Cheers...

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by dkaile

Like I said earlier, damage to the turbo charger needs to be further validated by a test drive to really ascertain whether the turbo is kicking in properly or not. But vibration analysis is a important point to judge the health of the turbo and that starts from idle because the turbo charger is spinning and the oil is circulating in it even at idle. Quoting from http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...arger-problems

But the vibration at idle could be due to so many other factors air filter clogged, fuel pump, spark plugs, injectors, coil pack, idle air control valve etc.

My understanding was the only way to know if there's damage to the turbo charger is to drive it at load. At idle, the issue could be something else and an issue related to turbo most likely will not show up on idle, more likely an issue with what I mentioned.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

My understanding was the only way to know if there's damage to the turbo charger is to drive it at load. At idle, the issue could be something else and an issue related to turbo most likely will not show up on idle, more likely an issue with what I mentioned.

Agreed to a extent. But even though a turbo is not providing boost at idle it is definitely spinning and oil is circulating. And you should be able to ascertain any damaged bearings etc. by hearing for any abnormal sounds. There may be other factors too, as you mentioned for any abnormal sounds and vibes, but one of those could be the turbocharger. This can be used as a starting point to ascertain any greater damage and not a lone criteria.

Cheers...

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by dkaile

Agreed to a extent. But even though a turbo is not providing boost at idle it is definitely spinning and oil is circulating. And you should be able to ascertain any damaged bearings etc. by hearing for any abnormal sounds. There may be other factors too, as you mentioned for any abnormal sounds and vibes, but one of those could be the turbocharger. This can be used as a starting point to ascertain any greater damage and not a lone criteria.

Ok I think I got what you are saying now. When you idle the car and the sound is not normal/smooth, it means there is something wrong with that car. It could be something to do with the fuel pump, ignition coils, injectors, air con, iac valve, spark plugs or even something catastrophically wrong with the turbo to make sound at idle but since there's no way to know whether the turbo is working at idle, you need to then drive the car and check if its actually working.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Ok I think I got what you are saying now.

That's common sense, isn't it? A smooth idle points to many good things about the car. And listening for any abnormal sounds, including worn out turbo charger bearings etc., while checking a car for sale is another common sense pre-check.

Cheers....

[dkaile]

Pirelli P7 x 2 installed @27782 kms 22-12-2017

So I decided to change two more tyres as age had taken it's toll and sidewall cracks had appeared on the two rear tyres. Goodyear had stopped making NCT5's and it was either the Goodyear Assurance or the Pirelli P7's (coming as OE fitment now on the Audi and the new Superb) for me. Did not go for the Michelins due to the softer sidewalls. Installed the new P7's on the front and got them for 14500/- for the pair, including balancing for all 5 tyres. The ride has become butter smooth with all 4 new tyres now.





The car's still running excellent @27000+ kms. And yes, my mileage is pretty low per year but the car is ageing beautifully nearing it's 6th year.









Cheers...