[cataclysm]

Hi guys,

I'm going for my i20 Sportz 4th service tomorrow (29k done). Just wanted to know what all should I be getting replaced so that the service centre folks don't replace unnecessary parts and the service ends up burning a hole in my pocket. And any idea how much is the approx cost of 4th service, since it's paid this time.

Thanks

[bharat4ever]

Originally Posted by bharat4ever

It cranks, but refuses to fire to life. That's why I was able to conclude that it wasn't the battery. I turned the car off, waited for a second to two, and then tried again it worked. Same thing has happened about 3 times now.

Anyone can try to figure out something? Because the service engineers are stumped.

[ank.nsit]

Originally Posted by bharat4ever

It cranks, but refuses to fire to life. That's why I was able to conclude that it wasn't the battery. I turned the car off, waited for a second to two, and then tried again it worked. Same thing has happened about 3 times now.

Originally Posted by bharat4ever

Anyone can try to figure out something? Because the service engineers are stumped.

Seems your issue is similar to what my friend is facing, as I mentioned in this thread some time back..

Originally Posted by ank.nsit

My friend's 8 months/10K KMs old i20 Diesel has a strange issue from the beginning.
Once in 1-2 months it refuses to start. The self just doesn't respond.
And on opening & closing the bonnet (yea JUST by doing this) the self starts responding.
He showed it to the service guy in first service & they checked everything but could not diagnose anything as the car was starting fine in the service center.

What is the probable cause? & what can be done to rectify such stupid issue?

As the issue is very rare (once in 1-2 months) he has nothing to show to the service guys.

[RSR]

Originally Posted by bharat4ever

Anyone can try to figure out something? Because the service engineers are stumped.

It does sound strange to me. Does your car have a push button start-stop switch or a conventional ignition key?

Originally Posted by ank.nsit

Once in 1-2 months it refuses to start. The self just doesn't respond.
And on opening & closing the bonnet (yea JUST by doing this) the self starts responding.
He showed it to the service guy in first service & they checked everything but could not diagnose anything as the car was starting fine in the service center.

Again, it sounds very odd. Just opening and closing the bonnet makes it start? Was the car checked for a possible loose connection somewhere?

-------

Both these cases are quite difficult to troubleshoot without experiencing the moment when it refuses to start.

However, I have a gut feeling it could be something that one wouldn't normally suspect in such a scenario - the clutch.

Yes, the clutch. Some Hyundai vehicles have a clutch lock system that prevents the engine from starting without depressing the clutch pedal. The i20 certainly has this as a standard feature. From what I understand, there is a switch that triggers a circuit when the clutch pedal is pressed, somewhat like the switch that causes the brake lamps to illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed. Only when the ECU senses this signal from the clutch, it allows the engine to fire to life.

There could be an issue (possible loose connection, entrapped dirt etc.) that is preventing the switch from functioning normally at all times. Checking it would be advisable.

[ravib]

Originally Posted by cataclysm

Hi guys,

I'm going for my i20 Sportz 4th service tomorrow (29k done). Just wanted to know what all should I be getting replaced so that the service centre folks don't replace unnecessary parts and the service ends up burning a hole in my pocket. And any idea how much is the approx cost of 4th service, since it's paid this time.

Thanks

Exactly the same information, i am looking for. Is your i20 sportz , petrol or diesel?

I need to give my i20 Asta 1.2 Petrol for paid service in August for 30k kms service. Earlier in my previous service, the SA told me it would cost close to 14k INR for 30k kms as it is a major service.

Wanted to check from experts what are absolute must to do and which can be avoided in 30k service and what is the average/reasonable cost for Petrol vehiclce?

Can someone who did 30k service for Petrol provide more inputs please?

Thanks
-Ravi

[cataclysm]

Originally Posted by ravib

Exactly the same information, i am looking for. Is your i20 sportz , petrol or diesel?

Mine is the diesel version

[ssjr0498]

Originally Posted by cataclysm

Hi guys,

I'm going for my i20 Sportz 4th service tomorrow (29k done). Just wanted to know what all should I be getting replaced so that the service centre folks don't replace unnecessary parts and the service ends up burning a hole in my pocket. And any idea how much is the approx cost of 4th service, since it's paid this time.

Thanks

Just got my 4th Service done (30,000kms) of my I20 Crdi.

Total bill was for around 4.5k. Following is what all was done

1. Oil Change
2. Oil Filter
3. Diesel Filter
4. Filter cartridge

Got 2 software upgrades done, car was due for that.

Regular maintenance work like brake pad cleaning and stuff! Labor was for around 1100-1200.

[ssjr0498]

Originally Posted by bharat4ever

Anyone can try to figure out something? Because the service engineers are stumped.

Originally Posted by ank.nsit

Seems your issue is similar to what my friend is facing, as I mentioned in this thread some time back..

Originally Posted by RSR

It does sound strange to me. Does your car have a push button start-stop switch or a conventional ignition key?



Again, it sounds very odd. Just opening and closing the bonnet makes it start? Was the car checked for a possible loose connection somewhere?

-------

Both these cases are quite difficult to troubleshoot without experiencing the moment when it refuses to start.

However, I have a gut feeling it could be something that one wouldn't normally suspect in such a scenario - the clutch.

Yes, the clutch. Some Hyundai vehicles have a clutch lock system that prevents the engine from starting without depressing the clutch pedal. The i20 certainly has this as a standard feature. From what I understand, there is a switch that triggers a circuit when the clutch pedal is pressed, somewhat like the switch that causes the brake lamps to illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed. Only when the ECU senses this signal from the clutch, it allows the engine to fire to life.

There could be an issue (possible loose connection, entrapped dirt etc.) that is preventing the switch from functioning normally at all times. Checking it would be advisable.

There are 2 things that needs to be checked

1. Check the clutch switch, which tells the ECU that the clutch is pressed. If this is faulty, you can have that problem

2. Please check the connections to your battery (not the battery itself), if there is a loose connection to the battery the car will refuse to start, you would see the lights on the dashboard, but the moment you crank, all the lights go off for a sec and you could hear a "thak" sound but the car wont crank.

Opening the hood and shutting can probably can aid that loose connection at times hence the car fires, apart from that the hood has got nothing to do with the cranking of the car.

[abhi7887]

Originally Posted by ssjr0498

Just got my 4th Service done (30,000kms) of my I20 Crdi.
.
.
Got 2 software upgrades done, car was due for that.

Regular maintenance work like brake pad cleaning and stuff! Labor was for around 1100-1200.

2 software updates!! Can you throw some light on that. I am due for my 30K service soon. I have a 2013 i20 Sportz crdi.

[Venkat_Figo]

Guys, one of my friend has a peculiar problem. He owns a i20 petrol (Era). Below is the image of his dash wherein the music system is placed. Unfortunately there is no single DIN system which fits in perfectly in the slot (as per him).

Has anyone faced this issue & is it true that there is no single DIN system which fits in perfectly.

Edit: Just got to know that there is no cage for the fitment of an aftermarket system. This sound ridiculous as the customer may have to buy an higher variant.

[Jag4]

Originally Posted by Venkat_Figo

Guys, one of my friend has a peculiar problem. He owns a i20 petrol (Era).
Edit: Just got to know that there is no cage for the fitment of an aftermarket system. This sound ridiculous as the customer may have to buy an higher variant.

He needs a trim from the Dash kit,any reputed installer can source the same.

Here's a picture from another thread:

[bharat4ever]

Originally Posted by ssjr0498

There are 2 things that needs to be checked

1. Check the clutch switch, which tells the ECU that the clutch is pressed. If this is faulty, you can have that problem

2. Please check the connections to your battery (not the battery itself), if there is a loose connection to the battery the car will refuse to start, you would see the lights on the dashboard, but the moment you crank, all the lights go off for a sec and you could hear a "thak" sound but the car wont crank.

Opening the hood and shutting can probably can aid that loose connection at times hence the car fires, apart from that the hood has got nothing to do with the cranking of the car.

I am pretty sure its neither. The reason being, if the clutch is not depressed, or if the battery is low or disconnected, then the car should not crank.

In my problem, the car cranks, cranks for a long time, but doesn't fire to life.
It cannot be a problem with the heating of the fuel either since the car has been running for a long time, and was switched off at the traffic signal.

[ssjr0498]

Originally Posted by bharat4ever

I am pretty sure its neither. The reason being, if the clutch is not depressed, or if the battery is low or disconnected, then the car should not crank.

In my problem, the car cranks, cranks for a long time, but doesn't fire to life.
It cannot be a problem with the heating of the fuel either since the car has been running for a long time, and was switched off at the traffic signal.

Can you briefly explain the manner in which you crank your car?

What I mean is, do you wait for the lights on the dashboard to glow and then go (only a couple of them go, rest remain on. 1 of them being the water in diesel sensor light, and one is injector.. I dont remember clearly.) or do you immediately crank the car and don't wait for them to go

[bharat4ever]

Originally Posted by ssjr0498

Can you briefly explain the manner in which you crank your car?

What I mean is, do you wait for the lights on the dashboard to glow and then go (only a couple of them go, rest remain on. 1 of them being the water in diesel sensor light, and one is injector.. I dont remember clearly.) or do you immediately crank the car and don't wait for them to go

Normally I wait for them to go out, but in the urgency of the traffic lights changing, I sometimes crank it immediately. Could that be the reason?

[guyfrmblr]

Originally Posted by bharat4ever

Anyone can try to figure out something? Because the service engineers are stumped.

Do you observe this when the AC is switched ON? I faced the same issue at a traffic signal once around 6 months back. However it didn't get reproduced after that. I asked the SA to check for this particular issue during my 80K service but even he was unable to reproduce it. Even I suspected the battery but if it had gone down, the issue had to be persistent. It happened only once in my case.

Originally Posted by ravib

Earlier in my previous service, the SA told me it would cost close to 14k INR for 30k kms as it is a major service.

Your SA is taking you for a ride. None of the service cost of my diesel i20 has crossed more than 11K until now. The last 90K service was charged around 9K. Just refuse all the unnecessary fancy stuff.