[magnanimousdude]

Update.

After replacing the cooling coil also the rpm issue did not solve. Yes the leak was there in the ac cooling coil. This becoming a big headache for me now. I have nearly spent around 30k for all service. I am now cast awayed. :-(

[rohannr]

Hello again,

The final thing for you to try out is my injector cleaning recommendation along with the fuel rail service. Also check the fuel filter for clogging. If it has been replaced before, then the same can be cleaned & fitted back.

Your car is basically missing on idle & on mid range acceleration due to a high quantity of gum deposits in the fuel systems. If not periodically cleaned once in say 10-12k Kms, the car becomes so bad that it may refuse to accelerate or even go dead.

The above service should cost you a max of Rs 2500/- & I can personally guarantee you your car will never give you this issue again.

Cheers,
Rohan Ramchandran.

Originally Posted by magnanimousdude

Update.

After replacing the cooling coil also the rpm issue did not solve. Yes the leak was there in the ac cooling coil. This becoming a big headache for me now. I have nearly spent around 30k for all service. I am now cast awayed. :-(

[magnanimousdude]

@rohannr,
Thanks Will try to do that

Question BHPians and petrol heads

The RPM with AC on is set to ~900 and without AC is set to ~800. I noticed that when the AC is on (i mean when the ac load is there in engine and not just on with the ac button in the dashboard) the RPM stays at 900 but when the AC cuts off (automatically when the chill is reached) it drops back to 800, this is the root cause of the fluctuation. is this natural?? i have not physically switched off the ac in dash but this happens on frequent basis. I am really confused

1. with AC switch (auto button On) on and with AC Load the RPM is 900
2. with AC Switch (auto button On) On and without AC load (reached the chill and hence AC is cut off) the RPM drops to 800.

Thus the fluctuation happens.

Moreover, in my Punto diesel i have never felt something like this! the RPM stays where it has to be.

Please Help and post your comments

[ssingri]

Hi,
The idling problem is mainly due to a sticky IAC and this can be manually dis assembled and cleaned. I had a great improvement when I cleaned the Throttle body myselfand System G helped too. I have not had the time to pull out the IAC as yet but it is on the to do list. The RPM fluctuation has reduced but the vibration while idling is still there.
The the throttle body cleaning done in service stations using spray down the air intake will not help, the intake manifold will need to come off and then use a carb cleaner/wd 40 to clean the throttle body and IAC.
The other theory is that the Baleno AC compressor is quite high capacity and the engine struggles to handle the load during idle as it ages (slight compression loss) and so the vibration and oscillation. If this is the case then it is a design issue and cannot be solved.
See post http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post2703055

[rohannr]

Yes, The setting is fine. The disturbance happens when there is a sudden interruption in the fuel supply which causes the drop when idling. Gradually it may even drop to as low as 500 rpm or even shut off.

Secondly in city driving most cars maintain an rpm between 1k to 2k. This is when the disturbance is most noticed & hence the jerking happens. It would in fact shock you that when the injectors / rail are opened up, they would be choked with black gunk like dirt.

Very few mechanics know the exact quick fixes for these problems from personal experience. The very fact that the car fast idles normally at cold starting itself proves that the idle speed sensor is working fine. If disconnected the car will stall when cold as the rpm would instantly drop to 800 wo a/c. Your a/c cut off also works fine, hence it does it's job off cutting out the a/c to save load when the misfire happens at idle.

Cheers,
Rohan Ramchandran.

Originally Posted by magnanimousdude

@rohannr,
Thanks Will try to do that
========================
Please Help and post your comments

[magnanimousdude]

Hello Guys,
I had touch base with "SupremeBaleno and V&V" for their expert comments and got to know many thinks from them, first and foremost a grateful thanks to them.

Here is the list of service jobs that i am doing for my baleno now

1. Suspension Stud Kit + bushes changing

2. Suspension lower arm bushes and ball joint repairing given the lathe people. My MASS said he is giving this to the chennai's best lathe specialist (though he charges a little more, job will be very satisfying and guaranteed). The lower arm replacement is around 6k so i said NO for it

3. Steering Rack and pinion (inner tie rod, outer tir rod) seems to have some problem, again the same is given to the lathe people as i dont want to change the OE steering (thanks to the advice from our BHPian V&V)

4. Many ball joints and bushes needs replacement

5. Fuel Injectors and Fuel rail cleaning is also given, Hope to get most of the issues resolved.

Expecting a bill around 15K altogether

Find below the Pictures of worn parts that are going to the lathe shop. Will share with you the results once all are fixed.

Comparison between the old and new cooling coils. To the left is the original DENSO cooling coil and the one on right is its near equivalent (i have changed with the expansion valve, cooling result are very good)

[esteem_lover]

Originally Posted by magnanimousdude

Question BHPians and petrol heads

The RPM with AC on is set to ~900 and without AC is set to ~800. I noticed that when the AC is on (i mean when the ac load is there in engine and not just on with the ac button in the dashboard) the RPM stays at 900 but when the AC cuts off (automatically when the chill is reached) it drops back to 800, this is the root cause of the fluctuation. is this natural?? i have not physically switched off the ac in dash but this happens on frequent basis. I am really confused

1. with AC switch (auto button On) on and with AC Load the RPM is 900
2. with AC Switch (auto button On) On and without AC load (reached the chill and hence AC is cut off) the RPM drops to 800.

Thus the fluctuation happens.

Moreover, in my Punto diesel i have never felt something like this! the RPM stays where it has to be.

Please Help and post your comments

The situation you have described is normal, but if it is happening too often (like once in 5 seconds or less), issue could be in the amount of gas filled in the compressor (from my experience). Being an old compressor, it cannot be filled with the specified qty of gas, lesser should be good.

How is the jerk in lower speeds ? I had similar experience in my esteem which was misdiagnosed as a clutch wear and the entire clutch assembly was changed, but it turned out to be the plug cords. Hope that helps.

[magnanimousdude]

Originally Posted by esteem_lover

The situation you have described is normal, but if it is happening too often (like once in 5 seconds or less), issue could be in the amount of gas filled in the compressor (from my experience). Being an old compressor, it cannot be filled with the specified qty of gas, lesser should be good.

How is the jerk in lower speeds ? I had similar experience in my esteem which was misdiagnosed as a clutch wear and the entire clutch assembly was changed, but it turned out to be the plug cords. Hope that helps.

Now the AC issue seems to have gone! mine cuts off only when the temperature is reached. May be approx every 40 sec or so @ 24 or 23 degree, and when kept at 19 degree it takes a long time for the AC to Cut off. So its understandable that the ac is working fine.

I get the RPM fluctuation only when the AC Cuts off. for the Jerks our Team BHPians requested to clean the Injectors and Fuel rail to solve the issue. I will post the results after my service.

[thoma]

Originally Posted by magnanimousdude

2. Suspension lower arm bushes and ball joint repairing given the lathe people. My MASS said he is giving this to the chennai's best lathe specialist

Do you know what exactly is being done on the lower arm in a lathe shop? Don't a lathe shop work on metal parts? Is there any metal work involved? Why I asked because I would like to know how the lower arm can be repaired rather than replacing, as mine is overdue.

[magnanimousdude]

Originally Posted by thoma

Do you know what exactly is being done on the lower arm in a lathe shop? Don't a lathe shop work on metal parts? Is there any metal work involved? Why I asked because I would like to know how the lower arm can be repaired rather than replacing, as mine is overdue.

No metal parts are touched as the entire suspension sits in it. it is dangerous for lower arm to do any lathe work in metal body. MASS gave the lower arm to lathe to fix the Bushes/ball joints etc that have weakened, see the picture above one ball joint missing when compared to other.

its not that lathe shop works only in metal parts. any fixing can be done, just because they have the proper tool to do it.

[magnanimousdude]

Hello Guys,
Got my car back after about a week from MASS, Find below the amount spent on various parts with labor Charges

1. Lathe Works (Steering Rack/pinion issue correcting, Lower arm conditioning, welding, OE Ball Join for Inner Tie rods fixing)- 4500/- [I opted this way of correcting the OE steering as i dont want to replace the OE HPS of Baleno]
2. OE Ball Joint for Rack/pinion - 1800/-
3. Tie Rod End - 1550/-
4. AC Cooling Coil - 9600/-
5. Expansion Valve - 1200/-
6. AC Thermostat Bulb - 450/-
7. Power Steering Oil - 210/-
8. Support Rod End - 750/-
9. Support Road Bush - 255/-
10. Stud Kit (2 nos) - 2400/-

labor:
1. Lower Arm R/R - 400/-
2. Steering Box R/R - 675/-
3. Steering Kit R/R - 450/-
4. Support Rod R/R - 250/-
5. A/C Gas Filling - 750/-
6. Compressor Oil - 300/-
7. A/C Service - 1250/-
8. Injector Cleaning including Rail Cleaning - 600/-

Total Expense = 27,390/-

Except the OE Ball joint for steering rack, others are not original one's, so All these amounts are without tax since i opted in that way. But My Friend (MASS Owner) said there will not be any issues with these. The OE parts of Baleno cost more than the amount of what i purchased the car

Moreover he said dont worry we are there for any issues. and said he personally guarantee for any issues.

Now the results,

Now i dont feel getting any suspension loosen up kinda noise nor i feel any rough patch hit under my steering column.

AC is as usual effective, Steering column vibration when RPM drops reduced a bit but not gone.

RPM issue still persist, the last thing that needs to be changed is the Overhead Cam shaft sensor. My mec says it cost around 4k but i doubt it i thought of personally going to the shop and purchasing it.

Find the below picture for replacements.

[magnanimousdude]

Hello Guys,
Need information and help, my baleno only gives 11kmpl with AC all time during my recent highway travel, traveled ~100 kmph most of the time. That is way too low IMHO. Please help, what should check, i just got my spark plug, injector and fuel rail cleaned in my recently:(

I guess i dont have to say about the City driving, i get only 9kmpl :(

PS: I dont like driving AC car without AC, for testing yes i test sometime driving without ac but only at night when the dust subsides.

[thoma]

Originally Posted by magnanimousdude

my baleno only gives 11kmpl with AC all time during my recent highway travel, traveled ~100 kmph most of the time. That is way too low IMHO. Please help, what should check, i just got my spark plug, injector and fuel rail cleaned in my recently

I don't know how to help you since you have already done most of the cleaning and replacing. But one thing I can say that 11 on the highway is a tad less.

If everything is alright, you should easily get anywhere around 14 kmpl (13-15, I even got 16.5 once with less A/C usage) depending on the force you apply on the a-pedal. The Baleno's FE is really sensitive on the throttle input. Even if you go highway and have a heavy right foot or floor the pedal on every acceleration, you should expect less FE. Why don't you check just once without the A/C so that you can rule out if the A/C is the culprit. Have you been calculating based on a full tank?

EDIT: And one more thing, I've felt that 70-80 kmph returns the best FE.

[petrolhead_chn]

@magnanimousdude, do we have any updates on the RPM issues? My Baleno has the same. AFAIK, it is a known issue where the RPM fluctuates when the ECM brings RPM back to 900 or 1000 to compensate the load on engine. I've tried almost all solutions from many sites and it seems to persist. You may notice this only when the car is idle after running for sometime. Can you help me with the service center or local mech with whom you got your Baleno serviced? Mine is due in sometime.

[magnanimousdude]

Originally Posted by petrolhead_chn

@magnanimousdude, do we have any updates on the RPM issues? My Baleno has the same. AFAIK, it is a known issue where the RPM fluctuates when the ECM brings RPM back to 900 or 1000 to compensate the load on engine. I've tried almost all solutions from many sites and it seems to persist. You may notice this only when the car is idle after running for sometime. Can you help me with the service center or local mech with whom you got your Baleno serviced? Mine is due in sometime.

My RPM issue is almost perfect now but not Gone after i cleaned my IAC Valve. this is born with baleno so i dont think this can be elminated unless you change your IAC valve to suzuki's new one or Get it cleaned from a reputed mechanic.

I live in perambur, and i give my car to a well known person who runs an Authorised maruti service station called "Techy Motors" in B.B Road Perambur. you can refer my name (Balaji Baleno). PM me to get his number.