[Sheel]

For workmanship alone, I would go with Pete's. But you would be a better judge, shouldn't go wrong with either.

[M35]

Originally Posted by Sheel

For workmanship alone, I would go with Pete's. But you would be a better judge, shouldn't go wrong with either.

I will be taking it to Pete's myself; just the oil/filter service this time. The timing kit/mountings saving for next time as there is no issue/vibrations felt inside. The K&N air filter needs cleaning; other filters need to get replaced and more importantly, looking forward to its performance with the Liquimoly Toptec + additive after having done the engine flush. Will update here accordingly.

[M35]

Update:

The oil service was done at Pete's @Kochi this time. The engine flushed and refilled with Liquimoly Toptech. The oil filter, A/C filter, Fuel filter all replaced and the K&N air filter cleaned and put back. The OWS engine oil additive was added and also the diesel additive.

Did close to 900km since then - one Palakkad-Munnar (and back) and a few Palakkad-Kochi (and back). Yeti is super silent now and FE appears to have improved by some 2 to 3 km/L If you sedately drive around, just under 80kmph, the MID shows anything in the range of 17-19 kmpL. My usual average FE now is around 14.5 kmpL with speeds consistently in the north of 120kmph.

I had a Harrier accompanying me during a drive to Kochi airport last week. That guy was a spirited driver too and was struggling to catch up with my Yeti which was breezing at high speeds. What a refinement post the oil service! One needs to do these speeds to enjoy the magic Bilsteins at work. The Harrier gave up after some 10 km or so. I was on my way to park the Yeti at CIAL before flying out to attend a 2-day conference near Hong Kong.

Will be getting the Timing kit replaced at Petes' too, mostly this Friday. Will update here then.

OT: The Tata Harrier has some presence, and in white, it looked majestic, to say the least.

[M35]

Quite a lot to update; just a picture for the time being

[blackbeast]

Originally Posted by M35

One needs to do these speeds to enjoy the magic Bilsteins at work.

what is the present cost for front & rear approximately for B4 and B6 .

[M35]

Originally Posted by blackbeast

what is the present cost for front & rear approximately for B4 and B6 .

I guess you want it for Yeti. B4 is just a direct replacement for OE shock absorbers while B6 is performance sport shocks. I got my B6 fitted at Pete's Kochi. They don't have the B4. The B6 costs Rs.98000 (+ 4500 fitting charge).

[blackbeast]

Originally Posted by M35

I guess you want it for Yeti. B4 is just a direct replacement for OE shock absorbers while B6 is performance sport shocks. I got my B6 fitted at Pete's Kochi. They don't have the B4. The B6 costs Rs.98000 (+ 4500 fitting charge).

Do you have part number for front and rear b6. i looked up bilstein official site. There are multiple part numbers fitting same vehicle spec.

[M35]

Update:

I was there in India for Christmas, and the Yeti did get the much-needed exercise for two weeks, after four months of no activity.

On reaching home, got into Yeti noticing the following:

• the ABS, ESP/Traction Control, Power Steering error signs on MID
• No cooling whatsoever, the warm air gets blown in though

Rotated the steering wheel fully to either side to check if it’s the steering alignment, but it wasn’t as the lights stayed.

The pinnacle Skoda is about to close, and then I had to either take to Pete’s or the newly opened Skoda ASC in Kochi. I couldn’t get an appointment with Pete’s as they already had a couple of bookings.

I have realized that the SGA Skoda at Coimbatore was just about an hour's drive away. I got hold of Mr.Wison (SM), who promptly asked me to drive in even without any prior appointment. SGA Skoda ASC is massive; the service area is vast and the hospitality exceptional. They took the car in at 8.55 am and changed the ABS sensors on LHS – both front & rear, which, according to them, had gone bad. For the AC, the gas was filled/topped up. Everything else was excellent, and I drove out of the ASC at around 11.00 am.

On my way back, I purchased (through RM car Décor, Coimbatore) 5L of Liqui Moly Molygen and a bottle of Liqui Moly Ceratec. I couldn’t have used any other brand after an exceptional experience with Liqui Moly Top Tec earlier. The idea was to replace the oil at a nearby FNG as Pete’s didn’t have the liquid Moly in stock (they were to use Mobil 1)

On my return at Big bazaar Palakkad, I had something to purchase. After shopping, as I put the key in, I noticed the ESP/TCS sign reluctant to go away at startup. The car wouldn’t start either. Waited for 20-30 sec, put the key in again, and this time the sign went away, and the car started normally.

I was worried as I had a scheduled early morning drive to Munnar the next day. The issue popped up on different occasions, but every single time it happened only at startup. I did drive up to Munnar and returned the next day. At Rajakkad, near Munnar, a quick scan with a friend of mine revealed this error code

01314 - Engine Control Module: No Communications

[iTNerd]

01314 - Engine Control Module: No Communications

Try the followings:
1) Clear all fault codes/DTCs
2) disconnect CAN-Databus Connectors, clean and reconnect to the ECM.

Even I got this ESP error at startup and stays there all the time. Basically, one of the ESP sensor in the ABS control module has gone bust and due to which ESP is permanently disabled and the gauge lit up in the odometer. Skoda is quoting 1.7 lacs to replace the whole ABS controller and pump (as it comes in one unit only). For now, I am quite OK with not having ESP, in fact,its quite fun. But I eventually have to fix it. But no way, I am going to spent a bomb. Looking for a second hand ABS controller module and might take some time. Ebay has a lot of options under 15K and so might take that route.

[M35]

Originally Posted by iTNerd

Try the followings:
1) Clear all fault codes/DTCs
2) disconnect CAN-Databus Connectors, clean and reconnect to the ECM.

Thank you, but I just don't feel comfortable driving in a car with such an important safety kit ESP + ABS + the rest malfunction.
Please read on.

01314 - Engine Control Module: No Communications

I knew what was coming and I feared the worst.
Mr.Wilson asked me if I could take it to them again and I obliged (as if I had any other option! )

Once again at 8:55 am the Yeti gets driven in at SGA. The scan revealed the same error.
The SA comes back in and says – "Sir all the sensors that we replaced are fine. Did you do any ECM coding/Remap? I said yes, but not very recently. “Oh, that is the problem, there is no communication with the ECM”- he replies.

I went into their workspace and the same was told by the rest. They also offered to do a thorough check along the wiring to ECM for which they needed a couple of days. I were to fly out of India from Coimbatore in a couple of days for another two weeks and I thought to get it dropped then. I left SGA by 9:30am. The error/issue continued almost every time I inserted the key. It was only getting worse as it needed more trials at startup. I also called up Pete’s who said such an intermittent issue can’t occur due to remap, though they offered to redo the entire thing all over again. More confusions!

Meanwhile I did do my own research and came across some useful posts on Briskoda and then came across this which prompted me to call up Srinath/Petes and confirming an appointment.

[iTNerd]

Thank you, but I just don't feel comfortable driving in a car with such an important safety kit ESP + ABS + the rest malfunction.

Braking per se was not a problem in my case. That is, ABS, EBD, HHC, XDS etc. all worked without any issues. Just that, in my case, the yaw rate sensor (G202) under ABS Controller module has gone bust and that is one of the component of ESP. So, for the time being, I can live with driving my car without ESP, while the rest (ABS, EBD, HHC, XDS etc) are working. I also don't understand the concept of stuffing all the sensors (G202 - yaw rate, G200 - Lateral Acceleration rate , G85 - steering angle etc.) in the ABS controller, as one fault with one of this sensor means, you are forced to change the whole unit. In other cars, the yaw rate sensor and others are outside the ABS controller as a separate units. So, changing the faulty sensor is quite easy, and cheap.

As for the 01314- ECM error, if it is a ECM fault, try to repair it from outside, it is very much possible. Else, new one would set you back around 1.5 lac or more. Just 3 months ago, my yeti suffered a malfunction (limp mode) due to a fault in the injector module in the ECM. A certain IC was changed and got it repair under 10K. And yes, I too had remapped my car and I sensed it has something to do with it.

[d3mon]

Originally Posted by M35

01314 - Engine Control Module: No Communications

Hi,
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I have been watching some videos by DiagnoseDan recently, and found that most of the times that he's debugging an intermittent CANBUS issue, it's usually a faulty ground. In other cases, it's some bad wiring and in the worst case, a bad module.

I would suggest watching a few of his videos on his channel in case you are technically inclined and are willing to take matters into your own hands along with your garage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-Y_20hFqwY

Originally Posted by iTNerd

Just 3 months ago, my yeti suffered a malfunction (limp mode) due to a fault in the injector module in the ECM. A certain IC was changed and got it repair under 10K. And yes, I too had remapped my car and I sensed it has something to do with it.

Did you get your ECU remapped via OBD or by getting it opened up physically?

[iTNerd]

Did you get your ECU remapped via OBD or by getting it opened up physically?

The ECU was opened and shipped to Petes cochin as the tuner here (Autophysce) was unable to post the remap via OBD (citing encrypted ECU). And from my little knowledge, Petes did some hardware changes in the ECU module before posting the remap. And I suspect that might have triggered the ECU fault in my car (that too, after a gap of 2 years).

[M35]

Originally Posted by iTNerd

Braking per se was not a problem in my case. That is, ABS, EBD, HHC, XDS etc. all worked without any issues.

In my case the engine wouldn’t crank at all with the light/sign on

Originally Posted by d3mon

Hi,
I would suggest watching a few of his videos on his channel in case you are technically inclined and are willing to take matters into your own hands along with your garage.

Thanks you for the post. I will have a look.

Originally Posted by d3mon

Did you get your ECU remapped via OBD or by getting it opened up physically?

In my case, it was just an OBD flash

• Whenever the ESP/TCS sign/light popped up, the power steering worked even when the engine was not turned on.
• The Skoda ASC had cleared all the errors that got stored, but the issue reoccurred.
• There was another light/sign which too popped up at times- engine emissions warning light, but there was no error code stored.

The very fact that the warning light appeared only at the startup caught my attention. I have had a 7-hour continuous drive and no issues whatsoever, but on reaching home, when I tried to restart, it wouldn’t as the warning stayed on the MID

[M35]

I checked all the fuses - under the dash and near the battery under the hood. Took everything out and replaced – didn't help.

The next stop was the battery; especially the issues are only at the startup. I am not a technical person, but I wondered if the battery couldn't retain the charge sufficiently. Could an insufficiently charged or erratically functioning battery be the culprit? At least I wished so as it seemed the cheapest and fastest solution.

The battery was Amaron AAM-PR-574102069 (74Ah) manufactured in 01/2016. That was four years and the kind of usage pattern that the vehicle has had under my possession I thought it was about time for a replacement, even if it didn't solve the problem.

Just a day before I set out to fly out, I went to the Amaron dealership at Palakkad and got a brand-new battery – the same Yeti specific. Another scan was performed, and all the error codes erased out. The car started very smoothly, and I drove back home. Did multiple trips/restarts over ten days now, no warning signs/errors anymore.