[ampere]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

This is I know so please correct me if I am not correct.

That is true. But the actual braking will still happen based on the status of pads right? Whether the action comes in early or its a late, depending on the pedal play should not be dependent on braking as such? (Again my thoughts. Will leave it to experts)

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by ampere

That is true. But the actual braking will still happen based on the status of pads right?

AFAIK, both our views go hand-in-hand and IMO you are right. Brake pads in good condition + no air bubbles = best braking.

Anurag.

[Sheel]

Brake pads wear out quite fast if used in rainy/dusty conditions. Water eats into brake pad's life. For me, it has stood true on Motorcycles.

Second being, braking efficiency won't suffer (drastically) because of brake pads being close to the Brake Wear Indicator. But if the brake pad is worn out, apart from reduced braking efficiency, it will play havoc with disc plate & destroy them.

To release air bubbles, I tie a cloth very tightly to the brake lever of my Motorcycle, the next morning, I have super sharp, progressive braking. Unsure about a Car though.

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by ampere

That is true. But the actual braking will still happen based on the status of pads right? Whether the action comes in early or its a late, depending on the pedal play should not be dependent on braking as such? (Again my thoughts. Will leave it to experts)

Theoretically- no. Because the effort provided is utilised for two types of work- 1. To compress the air bubbles in the system. 2. Actual braking.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Theoretically - no. Because the effort provided is utilised for two types of work- 1. To compress the air bubbles in the system. 2. Actual braking.

You put it in a simpler and precise way. Thanks.

So to compensate for point 1 the driver needs to apply more pressure to get the 2 in action.

Anurag.

[Prodigy07]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

They are trying to fleece you.

How is the braking now? Spongy or sharp as new?

Anurag.

The braking is sharp. But they are not as sharp as the Hyundai's.

The service advisor says the reason for the wear and tear is due to alloy pattern. More number of spokes will lead to less wear and tear.

OT - I find the brakes better in the Ritz than my Ertiga Vxi (2200 kms till date)

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by ampere

By bleeding the brakes, I think only brake play will reduce. However the braking won't change. That entirely should depend on the pads.

Yes it does. Though the braking efficiency won't get affected, it is the amount of pressure on pedal that will vary.

A Ritz Zdi that I drove (crazyfordriving) gave me immediate hint that the brakes were very spongy and lacked the bite. It surely was not normal even though the car had run less than 20,000 kms.


I instantly suggested brake fluid bleeding which even the manager at the workshop declined initially upon test driving the vehicle.

It was only later that the SA acknowledged the lack of bite and sponginess that bleeding was done and things were precise after that.

I have had a case with my WagonR itself where the life on pads show another 10k easily but It is lacking that efficiency. I have mostly (or always) got the pads changed much before its life span as I could easily feel the surface of the pads were harder than usual.

[Prodigy07]

This is the new issue that has cropped up in my Ritz VDi ABS since last Friday. As soon as I reach 60 km, there's a wierd loud 'Vroom' kind of sound coming from the rear. The sound is similar to a FFE. But this is really very irritating. I suspected the ICE wire to be the issue. But this sound comes even when the music system is switched off. Beyond 70 km the sound is just unbearable. Can someone clarify?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Prodigy07

This is the new issue that has cropped up in my Ritz VDi ABS since last Friday. As soon as I reach 60 km, there's a wierd loud 'Vroom' kind of sound coming from the rear. The sound is similar to a FFE. But this is really very irritating. I suspected the ICE wire to be the issue. But this sound comes even when the music system is switched off. Beyond 70 km the sound is just unbearable. Can someone clarify?

Is the wiring touching the body and getting short causing electrical interference? How did you wire the rear speakers from the HU? check that path for any abnormalities.

Hope this is not wheel bearing issue?!

Anurag.

[Prodigy07]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Is the wiring touching the body and getting short causing electrical interference? How did you wire the rear speakers from the HU? check that path for any abnormalities.

Hope this is not wheel bearing issue?!

Anurag.

Anurag, The issue is not with the ICE. I can confirm. Not sure if it's a wheel bearing issue. What else could be the problem?

[ank.nsit]

Originally Posted by Prodigy07

Anurag, The issue is not with the ICE. I can confirm. Not sure if it's a wheel bearing issue. What else could be the problem?

AFAIK, the whistling sound at greater speeds indicate wheel bearing issue only.

[Prodigy07]

Originally Posted by ank.nsit

AFAIK, the whistling sound at greater speeds indicate wheel bearing issue only.

Oh! How serious is this issue? Should I get it checked ASAP? Also, would like to know the cost of replacement and if this would be covered under warrantly. I have upsized the wheels. The car runs on 195/60 R15 Michelin Primacy LC tyres.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by Prodigy07

This is the new issue that has cropped up in my Ritz VDi ABS since last Friday. As soon as I reach 60 km, there's a wierd loud 'Vroom' kind of sound coming from the rear... Beyond 70 km the sound is just unbearable. Can someone clarify?

Originally Posted by ank.nsit

AFAIK, the whistling sound at greater speeds indicate wheel bearing issue only.

Sounds like bearing issue itself.

Originally Posted by Prodigy07

Oh! How serious is this issue? Should I get it checked ASAP? Also, would like to know the cost of replacement and if this would be covered under warrantly. I have upsized the wheels. The car runs on 195/60 R15 Michelin Primacy LC tyres.

It's serious and please get it changed immediately. I am told that if the bearing busts, it can lead to some serious damages to the car & wallet.

It's NOT covered under warranty and should cost around Rs. 800/- or so

Edit::

Please check this.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post3023078 (SwiftnFurious' Swift VDi ABS - 20K, 30K, 60K, 80K Service updates on Pg 1, 2, 4 & 5)

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Prodigy07

Oh! How serious is this issue? Should I get it checked ASAP? Also, would like to know the cost of replacement and if this would be covered under warrantly. I have upsized the wheels. The car runs on 195/60 R15 Michelin Primacy LC tyres.

Please get the wheel bearing's changed ASAP!

Costs between Rs 700-800. I had replaced the wheel bearings in my Ritz at 60K service and this is NOT covered under warranty.

Anurag.

[paragsachania]

• Wheel bearing noise is more like a resonating grinding noise than a whistling sound
• Wheel bearing noise is likely to increase or decrease proportionately with the vehicle speed
• While going at a steady speeds, zig-zagging (*conditions apply and we all know that), will also change the tone of the noise at different turning angles
• Let us say the bearing noise is prominent when driving at certain speed, you could shift to neutral and then see if the noise stays the same and decreases as you decelerate (It simply means the bearing noise from wheel has no connection with engine RPMs)