Team-BHP
(
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
If those are original leather seats, suggest you look at a god clean up and polish job right now rather than changing the seat covers. The Twin Horn wires need to be taped up. The Engine bay needs a service centre wash over.
Brilliant purchase.this is something i have always wanted.Just the maintenance scares me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACM
(Post 1449149)
If those are original leather seats, suggest you look at a god clean up and polish job right now rather than changing the seat covers. The Twin Horn wires need to be taped up. The Engine bay needs a service centre wash over.
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yes these are OG leather seats.
the seats will be cleaned and polished in the interior cleaning step:thumbs up
well
surprisingly
i'm Getting an FE of just 7 in the last 4 days of ownership ?
is this normal coz all the Merc diesels i've driven gave me 12-14 in city ! !
experts...gogi ji please throw some light on this please:
Quote:
Originally Posted by balenopower
(Post 1449187)
Brilliant purchase.this is something i have always wanted.Just the maintenance scares me.
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me too me too. I'm not afraid about shelling that kinda money on a merc and a w124 at that, but the maintenance is what is currently putting me off. i can't break banks that often.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jubin
(Post 1450562)
well
surprisingly
i'm Getting an FE of just 7 in the last 4 days of ownership ?
is this normal coz all the Merc diesels i've driven gave me 12-14 in city ! !
experts...gogi ji please throw some light on this please:
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excellent looking car. get the air filters/fuel filters checked. that's where one would look at first.Merc experts are better at answering this though.
Nice catch!
Check all the wiring harnesses as they are known to degrade over time in this model.
all merc experts seem to be to busy to answer this stupid:
Congratulation on the buy, Nice car
1) About ABS, how did you conclude ABS is working? Did brake pedal pulsate on hard breaking? You can easily test this at low speeds just have one of the front wheels on loose surface and brake hard and your brake pedal should pulsate.
ABS light could be because of bad OVP/OVP fuse or faulty ABS control module, which is pretty easy to source as used part.
2) About low FE, I think you get a proper service done and take it from there.
Looking at the engine bay I would not say car was superbly maintained. Also the interiors does not look standard (specially the door card combination). If you can PM me your VIN I can look up your car details.
well
its been a long time since i came back to write about my car
boy i'm having fun with this monster.
50 days and 3500 kms later.
i'm finally getting an FE of 11 in city and 15 on Highways.(i'm so satisfied)
but in the last few days a strange problem is bothering me
the horn and the turn signal indicator fuse blows up.
i'm putting these new fuses almost every alternate day.
the temperature of the car goes up a bit but only the horn and turn signal goes up.
rest of the things are working fine.
Special Merc Mechanics say "wiring short hai ..dekhna padega"
what could be the reason ?
by the way i'm really happy about the car i'm enjoying every Squarefoot of its real estate ! !
the way i put it
1)buying a merc - couple of lakhs..
2) branded clothes - few grands
3)exclusive cellfone - few grands
4) hottest chicks looking at you in your MERC - PRICELESS
Quote:
Originally Posted by jubin
(Post 1526066)
well
but in the last few days a strange problem is bothering me
the horn and the turn signal indicator fuse blows up.
i'm putting these new fuses almost every alternate day.
the temperature of the car goes up a bit but only the horn and turn signal goes up.
rest of the things are working fine.
Special Merc Mechanics say "wiring short hai ..dekhna padega"
what could be the reason ?
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Have you tried replacing with a higher value fuse?
Is it an aftermarket horn (meaning requiring higher value fuse?)
Jubin, Get in touch with Gogi. He should be able to help out with the fuse issue. Hes lived with W124s for many many years.
thanks guys
i'd surely get in touch with him i'm unable to find him online .
anyways still need some more pointers for maintaining this beauty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dippy
(Post 1528220)
Jubin, Get in touch with Gogi. He should be able to help out with the fuse issue. Hes lived with W124s for many many years.
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hey dippy sorry couldn't be in touch with you, as i was constantly exploiting the monster .
promise this week we're going for a ride :thumbs up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jubin
(Post 1448296)
facing a small problem
the ABS light remains on even after switching on the engine .
the manual says if this light is on means ABS id defective ! !
but the ABS still works ( i was in a situation yesterday when i had to ram the brakes hard and steer left...)
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Hi Jubin, sorry for not responding earlier, i had missed this thread. Since you say that the ABS is working fine (recognised by the puklsating pedal when you brake hard) the light staying on could be caused by the following;
1) Low battery current. Check if your battery is giving out the required 13+ (ideally 13.8 to 14.4) Volts. When the battery volts fall below a certain voltage, the OVP is designed to blow the fuse and disconnect the ABS system.
2) I have known cars with incorrect tyres on the wheels. Dont ask me why, maybe a sensor problem but having the incorrect size i.e. not the same size on all tyres does cause this.have heard from a couple of people but not experienced this.
3) Check for sensors to be replaced or detached sensors (in case of a large pothole or a very harsh wheel impact on a divider or something) Should not happen but it is a 20+ year old car after all. Sometimes the sensors get detached. If the mounts (engine and gear) are worn out, the vibration may also lead to something getting detached form either the pump or the old solders getting detached. Have these checked and replace al mounts asap.
4) Faulty OVP (Over Voltage Protection) relay. This basically does the work of feeding the ABS unit. it may also be also the cause of the SRS light staying on. It is situated close to the engine ECU. Sometimes just the fuse on top of it may be faulty or blown or may be the solder connections inside the PCB may get faulty. Get a good electrician to have a look at it.
5) Corrosion on the ABS pump relays.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jubin
(Post 1450562)
well
surprisingly
i'm Getting an FE of just 7 in the last 4 days of ownership ?
is this normal coz all the Merc diesels i've driven gave me 12-14 in city ! !
...gogi ji please throw some light on this please:
|
FE is directly related to the way you drive. Get Pedal heavy and the FE goes down faster. Also it can suffer if your various filters (diesel, air, oil) are not replaced and have outlived their life. Get a through tune up and see it go. On the other hand, stop and go traffic will affect the FE drastically. My E220 gave me not more than 6 in traffic but a trip on the expressway made it yield a whopping 16 kms/litre of petrol.
Quote:
but in the last few days a strange problem is bothering me
the horn and the turn signal indicator fuse blows up.
i'm putting these new fuses almost every alternate day.
|
Most probably the replacement fuse is not of the same voltage. Its really no rocket science but a lot of electricians will not even look for the right fuse. Then, either a bare wire is rubbing the body, or there could be moisture in the turn signal housing itself. Pl check if this particular fuse is shared by the Cigarette lighter asd that is the biggest cause for fuse blowouts.
Most probable causes a short or a wrong fuse, a faulty relay, a faulty bulb or faulty horns besides those listed above. These should not be a problem to fix
Hope i have been helpful.
Quote:
Originally Posted by V-16
(Post 1528422)
Hi Jubin, sorry for not responding earlier, i had missed this thread. Since you say that the ABS is working fine (recognised by the puklsating pedal when you brake hard) the light staying on could be caused by the following;
1) Low battery current. Check if your battery is giving out the required 13+ (ideally 13.8 to 14.4) Volts. When the battery volts fall below a certain voltage, the OVP is designed to blow the fuse and disconnect the ABS system.
2) I have known cars with incorrect tyres on the wheels. Dont ask me why, maybe a sensor problem but having the incorrect size i.e. not the same size on all tyres does cause this.have heard from a couple of people but not experienced this.
3) Check for sensors to be replaced or detached sensors (in case of a large pothole or a very harsh wheel impact on a divider or something) Should not happen but it is a 20+ year old car after all. Sometimes the sensors get detached. If the mounts (engine and gear) are worn out, the vibration may also lead to something getting detached form either the pump or the old solders getting detached. Have these checked and replace al mounts asap.
4) Faulty OVP (Over Voltage Protection) relay. This basically does the work of feeding the ABS unit. it may also be also the cause of the SRS light staying on. It is situated close to the engine ECU. Sometimes just the fuse on top of it may be faulty or blown or may be the solder connections inside the PCB may get faulty. Get a good electrician to have a look at it.
5) Corrosion on the ABS pump relays.
FE is directly related to the way you drive. Get Pedal heavy and the FE goes down faster. Also it can suffer if your various filters (diesel, air, oil) are not replaced and have outlived their life. Get a through tune up and see it go. On the other hand, stop and go traffic will affect the FE drastically. My E220 gave me not more than 6 in traffic but a trip on the expressway made it yield a whopping 16 kms/litre of petrol.
Most probably the replacement fuse is not of the same voltage. Its really no rocket science but a lot of electricians will not even look for the right fuse. Then, either a bare wire is rubbing the body, or there could be moisture in the turn signal housing itself. Pl check if this particular fuse is shared by the Cigarette lighter asd that is the biggest cause for fuse blowouts.
Most probable causes a short or a wrong fuse, a faulty relay, a faulty bulb or faulty horns besides those listed above. These should not be a problem to fix
Hope i have been helpful.
|
wwow
gogi ji you are an institute stupid:
the FE thing is sorted out now,I'm getting 11 in city and 15 on Highways
as you mentioned the Heavy Foot theory,clap:
about the "Fuse" it is shared by the horn and the signal lights only
what i've observed is that the car tends to overheat as in the Temprature of the car goes above 80. also if u honk 3-4 times it goes off.
is the car overheating related to the fuse funda.
the oils were recently changed,the harness etc everything is working as it should.the Ac is working fine too. so still thinking what could it be
i think this babe needs to go to the Mechanic.
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