Quote:
Originally Posted by jubin facing a small problem
the ABS light remains on even after switching on the engine .
the manual says if this light is on means ABS id defective ! !
but the ABS still works ( i was in a situation yesterday when i had to ram the brakes hard and steer left...) |
Hi Jubin, sorry for not responding earlier, i had missed this thread. Since you say that the ABS is working fine (recognised by the puklsating pedal when you brake hard) the light staying on could be caused by the following;
1) Low battery current. Check if your battery is giving out the required 13+ (ideally 13.8 to 14.4) Volts. When the battery volts fall below a certain voltage, the OVP is designed to blow the fuse and disconnect the ABS system.
2) I have known cars with incorrect tyres on the wheels. Dont ask me why, maybe a sensor problem but having the incorrect size i.e. not the same size on all tyres does cause this.have heard from a couple of people but not experienced this.
3) Check for sensors to be replaced or detached sensors (in case of a large pothole or a very harsh wheel impact on a divider or something) Should not happen but it is a 20+ year old car after all. Sometimes the sensors get detached. If the mounts (engine and gear) are worn out, the vibration may also lead to something getting detached form either the pump or the old solders getting detached. Have these checked and replace al mounts asap.
4) Faulty OVP (Over Voltage Protection) relay. This basically does the work of feeding the ABS unit. it may also be also the cause of the SRS light staying on. It is situated close to the engine ECU. Sometimes just the fuse on top of it may be faulty or blown or may be the solder connections inside the PCB may get faulty. Get a good electrician to have a look at it.
5) Corrosion on the ABS pump relays.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jubin well
surprisingly
i'm Getting an FE of just 7 in the last 4 days of ownership ?
is this normal coz all the Merc diesels i've driven gave me 12-14 in city ! !
...gogi ji please throw some light on this |
FE is directly related to the way you drive. Get Pedal heavy and the FE goes down faster. Also it can suffer if your various filters (diesel, air, oil) are not replaced and have outlived their life. Get a through tune up and see it go. On the other hand, stop and go traffic will affect the FE drastically. My E220 gave me not more than 6 in traffic but a trip on the expressway made it yield a whopping 16 kms/litre of petrol.
Quote:
but in the last few days a strange problem is bothering me
the horn and the turn signal indicator fuse blows up.
i'm putting these new fuses almost every alternate day.
|
Most probably the replacement fuse is not of the same voltage. Its really no rocket science but a lot of electricians will not even look for the right fuse. Then, either a bare wire is rubbing the body, or there could be moisture in the turn signal housing itself. Pl check if this particular fuse is shared by the Cigarette lighter asd that is the biggest cause for fuse blowouts.
Most probable causes a short or a wrong fuse, a faulty relay, a faulty bulb or faulty horns besides those listed above. These should not be a problem to fix
Hope i have been helpful.