[pcpranav]

Originally Posted by shishir_bn

Clutch switch cost 141/-. This was the cost I paid when I changed mine. Also even after replacing that switch I used to get this issue once in awhile. Hence I have disconnected it.

on phone consulting with adviser, he spoke of 200+. In the bill, it reflected as Scorpio M2di Clutch Switch - on inquiring he said that the part was same for Xylo too. As said, with labor it was ~300.

if you have disconnected - what is the effect ? how do you manage - if rpm still going zero during occasional clutch usage ?

thanks,

[shishir_bn]

Originally Posted by pcpranav

on phone consulting with adviser, he spoke of 200+. In the bill, it reflected as Scorpio M2di Clutch Switch - on inquiring he said that the part was same for Xylo too. As said, with labor it was ~300.

if you have disconnected - what is the effect ? how do you manage - if rpm still going zero during occasional clutch usage ?

thanks,

I don't think the Scorpio switch and Xylo switch are same. When I had replaced it, it was written Xylo Clutch Switch.

I was not charged any labor cost. It was simple fixing.

It didn't affect me in any way. The clutch switch gives signal to the ECU based on our riding. The same clutch switch gives into to MDI if it is E6 or E8 on FE, DTE etc. Mine is E4 hence didn't mind removing it.

Now from past 1 year I am not facing any rpm issues.

[pcpranav]

Originally Posted by shishir_bn

I don't think the Scorpio switch and Xylo switch are same. When I had replaced it, it was written Xylo Clutch Switch.

I was not charged any labor cost. It was simple fixing.

It didn't affect me in any way. The clutch switch gives signal to the ECU based on our riding. The same clutch switch gives into to MDI if it is E6 or E8 on FE, DTE etc. Mine is E4 hence didn't mind removing it.

Now from past 1 year I am not facing any rpm issues.

thanks for the quick response. so, if the switch is kaput, that's the reason of rpm falling. then how come you not facing issue; bcoz u dont have MDI ?!

maybe in my next visit, I can get it re-checked, since it billed as Scorpio M2di. but so far the MDI in my E6 is ok. I believe the speedo's trip-meters reading is independent from the MDI, and both are always matching.
I have a habit of full-tank and reset the trip meters and MDI, and then keep a tap on FE / DTE figures ! Further more, I also calculate the FE on my mobile's calci, and the MDI has been reasonably correct.

regards,
Pranav

[shishir_bn]

Originally Posted by pcpranav

then how come you not facing issue; bcoz u dont have MDI ?!

regards,
Pranav

Mine doesn't have MDI. Mine is E4 version. The clutch switch also gives into to the ECU on the fuel consumption based the amount of clutch pressed etc it will also act as regulator(something like that IIRC).

But not a major issue. But if the OBD diagnostics is done then it will show a yellow error signal on the software since the switch is disconnected. Nothing to worry about

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

There is some unusual (abnormal) noise from Engine Bay at Idle Rpm.
If I raise the Rpm to 1000 rpm (in Neutral), the noise disappears.
I guess the noise somewhat sounds like a worn out bearing.
But how is that the noise disappears when the rpm is raised to 1000?

On showing to MASS, the SA told that they have to check the Vacuum Modulator by replacing the same with new and if still the problem persists, they would have to open the Engine and check.

The Vacuum Modulator cost @2000/-.



Is the Vacuum Modulator faulty? or is it Turbo?

The car has run 1,77,911 kms.
The Engine Oil (and Oil Filter of course) has been changed every 10000-12000 kms (as against 15000 kms interval of M&M) after the initial 5000 kms.

[ramzsys]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

Is the Vacuum Modulator faulty? or is it Turbo?

Check inside the engine bay for isolating the noise source. If it is near the belt area, i would suspect the water pump.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by ramzsys

If it is near the belt area, i would suspect the water pump.

It is indeed near the Belt Area (around Thermostat Valve).
If the Water pump is at the end of life, should not the water level drop?
Also if the water pump is culprit, does the noise disappear when the engine rpm is raised to 1000rpm?
What would be the approx. labour cost and required time for replacing water pump?
One more thing- Does water pump failure affect performance of AC?
The AC does not cool the cabin even on "Hi" Mode.

The noise is not from Vacuum Modulator which is located behind Battery. So it is not culprit.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Sorry for late update.
I went to my known mechanic. On removing the Inter-cooler from its mounting and disconnecting both the Pipes of Intercooler, the noise disappeared.
The mechanic told me that the intercooler is making the noise. On that I asked him is it risky to drive the car in this condition to which he replied that no, the car can be used with no problems other than the noise.

Also is it some fault that the intercooler has some traces of oil inside it?
That mechanic advised to check the Turbo as it might be faulty since it is throwing oil to the intercooler.

I would like to mention that the Engine Oil level does not drop and remain constant until the drain interval of 10000 kms (as against M&M recommended 15000 kms).

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Can I get the Intercooler Ends cleaned with Pressurised Air?
Means I will blow air from both ends (one at a time) with pressurised air. Will it harm the intercooler?

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

Can I get the Intercooler Ends cleaned with Pressurised Air?
Means I will blow air from both ends (one at a time) with pressurised air. Will it harm the intercooler?

Sorry for bumping my own post.
But I need advice on the above at the earliest please.
Could Experts please throw some light on this?
Thanks in advance.

[pcpranav]

Hi friend,
im no expert in this subject, but let me suggest.

the intercooler can surely be cleaned, with bit caution of not to bend the fins, which are the air paths. do not use pressurized air/water.

once the unit is totally unmounted, you can flush it using petrol / diesel, or simply put water. some people use the utensil cleaner liquid with water. basically, whatever mild to dissolve the oil residue. gently shake the unit and empty the liquid, do it till its clear. later clean with water and let it dry fully on its own. you can gently clean the tips of the connecting pipes also.

some links:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...r_Cleaning.htm
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...155-a-123.html

btw, if your turbo itself is faulty, then above exercise wont help, apart from from hygiene of intercooler itself.

btw, for the noise you speaking of, did you try cleaning the EGR Valve as well ?

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

@Pranav.. Thanks. The pelicanparts link gave some idea about cleaning.
I will have to wait till I have sufficient amount of time to clean the intercooler and also to dry it.
Also the Intercooler of Xylo and Indigo are not located behind the front bumper but on top of engine. So it would take less time to remove and refit the same.

[pcpranav]

Hi,
since few months, I had oil leak in the engine bay. few weeks back, I got the tappet gasket replaced (~Rs.200), but the leak continued. The next suspect was Oil Separator Unit. Overall, it was really looking dirty and disturbing me.

Last weekend went to service station for the repairs.

The oil separator unit is mounted on the tappet, which can be accessed after removing the inter-cooler unit. The cost of this unit & o-ring replacement is ~Rs.800, plus labor.

below pictures would given an idea. hopefully this will solve the oil leak problem.

regards,

[pcpranav]

btw, hopefully its ok to post these details in this thread, since a single dedicated thread for Xylo problems isnt available !

some more work done in this last visit.

since few days, the front suspension was making noise (chi...chi..) and also ride quality was getting deteriorated. the usual suspect was the suspension bush and stabilizer bar bush. and its been time that I changed these.

Directly asked the technician to change these two bushes. He examined and openly said "itne se nahin hoga, pura suspension ka kaam karna padega" (wont do with this small job, but whole suspension work has to be done). He even argued that my tyres are unevenly wearing.

For tyres, right now, I dont care to protect; they are the stock Dueler AT, with lots of punctures repaired, in 3 years done 78K KM! Some credit of the uneven wear is credited of my previous negligent (or prolonged) alignment / balancing job.

As per him, once they open suspension, all parts (bushes, tie rods, arms, ball joints, links) has to be changed for a permanent solution, which would cost ~25K ! I knew these parts in my vehicle are not in the best condition, but I wasnt ready to just do "replace all" mode. And for this kinda money involved, no ways. (BTW, this estimate doesnt include the shock-abs, coil !)

So, with after few discussion, they agreed on my plan: just replace the suspension bush and stabilizer bar bush, these things were surely done within Rs.1500. And this much money should surely silence the noise, isnt it ?!

And worst case, whenever I do a overhaul of suspension, these things might again need a replacement, just to have a tune-in. Anyways, will have a detailed analysis on suspension matter lateron.

As Im writing this, since the last two days, the noise has disappeared.

The activity is shown in below pictures:

regards,

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Now I got time to record the noise coming from Engine Bay at Idle Rpm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_heiHTW4YI

Please ignore the video and just go through the audio.

I got the Intercooler removed and refitted but still the sound comes (the sound exists even if the IC is removed). It is not of Radiator Fan also since after removing the same, the noise still persists.

Please experts any pointers on this?