[gaurav_chopra04]

Originally Posted by mobike008

Year and Weeks are mentioned on the sidewall of each tyre as mentioned by Shuvc. However, IIRC, they never mention the place they got manafactured.

Place of manufacture is mostly mentioned on one side wall of the tyre, so it may not be mentioned on one side, but it should be on other.

Originally Posted by planet_rocker

Is that Yokohama specific? the place of manufacture is mentioned on the tyres my car is running on.

Nope, In fact Yokohama also mentions speed, traction and tread wear ratings on the tyre apart from week/month and place pf manufacture, which I believe are compulsary.

I have seen atleast week/place and place of manufacture on various tyres, yokos, bridgestones, good years, dunlop, mrf, and I think apollo as well.

on a second thought, we didn't see the place of manufacture of the ES100s at a tyre dealer.

Must be an import. Many tyre dealers here in delhi (mostly in karol bagh) import tyres. Manage to get them some areal route without duty. Lets say Bridgestone has manufacturing plant in france, Japan, thailand and India, the imports from thailand will be the cheapest, the one from france will be atleast 4-500 more expensive (I take 205/55 R16), the one in Japan will be further expensive by 400-500 and the one in India will be most expensive because they are levied by duty. Therefore, many tyre dealers who import tyres get rid of it the moment they import it in India.

Hence, I always make a point to check both week/year of manufacture and manufacturing location on all tyres before purchase.

Originally Posted by shuvc

@gaurav, I'll double check. Though I'm sure they are all Made in Japan.

Actually my cousin's cedia had 4 good years, 2 manufactured in germany of 2009 year and 2 manufactured in thailand of 2006 year. Both pairs were almost brand new. But, the thailand ones became rock solid wiithin few months and noise was too bad. So, they were replaced by Bridgestone ER300, made in france, early 2010.

[mobike008]

Yes, Never saw them on Yokos before. Perhaps the double side check was a miss then, as Iam also particular of checking all markings before cutting a check.

That was an informative post Gaurav. I know the largest dealer in AP (Ashoka Wheels) he imports a lot of tyres from abroad and i was thinking it was Malaysia.

[shuvc]

Checked earlier posts and yes I had noted the details.

In post #80 in this thread I mentioned - "The stock Michelin Energy MXV8 195/65/15s (dated 4309, Made in Thailand) were replaced with Yokohama AVS dB V550 205/60/15s (dated 4809, Made in Japan)."

So the dB's are not too old, of the same vintage and MIJ !

I checked a set of 185 ES100s at the place where I got the alignment done. Made in Japan was mentioned on them too. These guys are primarily Yoko dealers (or maybe distributors) though. Their main big signboard has only Yokohama on it.

[spadix]

Originally Posted by gaurav_chopra04

Place of manufacture is mostly mentioned on one side wall of the tyre, so it may not be mentioned on one side, but it should be on other.

Nope, In fact Yokohama also mentions speed, traction and tread wear ratings on the tyre apart from week/month and place pf manufacture, which I believe are compulsary.

Thanks for the informative post, gaurav_chopra04.

I just checked my tyres' sidewalls today and this is what I found -

JUN10 1WAE 2CVR 2310 Made in India

And of course there's a lot of fine print, in addition to brand name, size and speed rating.

I only remembered the JUN10 from before, and not the week (2310).

I think the 1WAE 2CVR must be traction and tread wear ratings.

These are the stock Goodyear Eagle NCT5s, by the way.

Regards,
spadix

[shuvc]

Plonked in this Fram cabin air filter as an experiment 2 weeks back. Can't make out any difference. Now that the monsoons are here, will check on frequency of the foul odour.

The last couple of weeks have been extremely hot/humid in Cal. Cooling does not seem to have been compromised either.

Amazon.com: FRAM CF10134 Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter: Automotive

[spadix]

Originally Posted by shuvc

Now that the monsoons are here, will check on frequency of the foul odour.

BQ's HVAC compressor apparently had a load of fungus all over it and was cleared during the recent 4th service. I haven't experienced that bad odour since, though it's only been half a month now.

Perhaps you might want to get the compressor checked for similar build-up of dust and/or fungus?

Regards,
spadix

[suman]

Sorry if I missed this but were you able to get the discs replaced under warranty?

[shuvc]

Originally Posted by shuvc

Sunday evening. Relatively empty road. Went to top up fuel in the car. Distance from bunk to home is around 12.5kms. Decided to try out another ultra sedate run to note the FE

For those who are aware of the geography - the run was recorded from Sector V Millennium City HP bunk to City Center II at around 6pm. Without AC.

Here's the result. I was shifting within 2K rpm and hit a top speed of 63kmph. Mainly hovered between 55-60kmph in 5th unless I was slowing down for traffic, turns etc.

The meter went upto 22.5 but I was unable to capture that reading.

Another experiment today !

Same route. Normal office day traffic. At around 615-630pm. Just before it hits peak traffic.

Topped up the tank. And let go ! Wanted to see how the car does on non-eco mode. Was majorly in 2nd/3rd .. sometimes in 4th. Not in 5th. Revvs hovering around 4-5.5k. Without AC. Fairly accelerate decelerate mode due to traffic and new speedbreakers. Did not notice top speed.

Basically I drove like I would, to have fun. This is the result. Gotta love Honda engines!




Now for the bad news.

Was out yesterday. In a fairly ok 1.5 lane street. I see a cab turning into the street from the right, towards me. I stop to let him turn in fully. The sun was setting. Light was poor. Amby cab was turning quite slowly. Suddenly I see his right rear door fly open and approaching my car !!! I shouted .. The driver had noticed earlier and tried to steer, brake and also reach out behind to control the door. But alas .....

It hit the right ORVM with a sickening sound. The ORVM swung in towards the body releasing the cab door - which then came and brushed against the door crease line. The front door crease line has a slight dent. The rear door has mainly paint damage. The ORVM has zero damage !

The metal seems to be exposed on the front door. I'm planning on getting that portion touched up to protect it from the elements, ignoring the fact that the touch-up job would show. Would that work?



Do excuse the dirt. Drove in drizzling rain for a while earlier today.

[planet_rocker]

Originally Posted by shuvc

Topped up the tank. And let go! Basically I drove like I would, to have fun. This is the result.

I try that all the time and get more than 8KPL and with my usual shifting range it is usually less than 6KPL

Originally Posted by shuvc

Gotta love Honda engines!

I love Hondas as well - wanna exchange?

Originally Posted by shuvc

Now for the bad news.

You got that compaint thingy with you?

buy clear coat nail polish - apply on exposed metal - apply a layer of compaint thingy and its clear coat - apply wax and forget about it for the time being - get it touched up later at HASS. Infact i can do it for you for FREE

all the best

[sushrutha]

@Shuvc
Hurts to see the car have a scratch. Good part is it's a minor job with nt much of a dent.
Better to get it repainted the door fully as the metal part is exposed.
Touch up at the part would not match the other portion of the car's colour perfectly.
Take it to some good paint workshop, they should do it fo r~ 2 -3K Rs (Honda *** will charge in CLOSE TO 5 figures for each door paint with dent removal )
For the rear door a good rubbing + polish and a small touch up should make it fine.

[dot]

Now what kind of cab leaves the rear door open during driving? Nut-heads. Sorry to hear about the incident. At least the ORVM was intact. I agree with Susrutha. If possible, better to get the dent fixed at a independent garage. It should not cost much, one door dent fixing + two door partial aint..max 3-4k.

[shuvc]

Originally Posted by planet_rocker

You got that compaint thingy with you?

buy clear coat nail polish - apply on exposed metal - apply a layer of compaint thingy and its clear coat - apply wax and forget about it for the time being - get it touched up later at HASS. Infact i can do it for you for FREE

Sure thanks for offering to do it for free. You still won't get the amp though

I do have the Tafetta White Com-Paint. Aerosol spray. Had tried it on some scratches on the bumper and realised that spray painting is not advisable for rank amateurs like me. One option is to use the nail polish clear coat, as you have mentioned. Spray some paint on a brush and apply it lightly on the affected area. It will surely show. But I'd have to live with that. Or take it to HASS.

Originally Posted by sushrutha

Take it to some good paint workshop

For the rear door a good rubbing + polish and a small touch up should make it
fine.

Originally Posted by dot

If possible, better to get the dent fixed at a independent garage. It should not cost much, one door dent fixing + two door partial aint..max 3-4k.

Am skeptical about getting the full door painted. Chances are that then the whole door may not match up after sometime. This happened to the Baleno, although it was done in a heat chamber at the MASS. The colour was matched but somehow the finish was missing. Must say this happened on only one panel out of the 3-4 times I have had bumpers etc painted/touched up.

But it scares me to think that a few months down the line the painted door might end up with a different level of glaze. Which is why I'd prefer a touch up job. Even at the cost of not attending to the wee-wee dent and knowing that the touchup would show. But from a distance or at a glance it may not be that evident.

As a first step, I was thinking of taking it to HASS and requesting my friendly Service Advisor to touch it up locally and then see the results. This can always be the first step. If it works fine. If not, the option of painting a larger portion or the whole door remains open.

Originally Posted by dot

Now what kind of cab leaves the rear door open during driving? Nut-heads.

He immediately stopped the cab and came over to me. Was extremely apologetic. Apparently the last passenger had just got off and had not closed the door properly.

[planet_rocker]

Originally Posted by shuvc

Sure thanks for offering to do it for free. You still won't get the amp though .

Mom always tells me not to give free advice and free help, I should have listened to her. Dad always tells me to get work done by force

That amp is mine

on a serious note: Clear coat of Nail Polish is a temporary solution to protect the bare metal from moisture / rain / water. do get a patch work done and full body wax polish. Updates on the Tein upgrades? bye.

[sushrutha]

Originally Posted by shuvc

Sure thanks for offering to do it for free. You still won't get the amp though

I do have the Tafetta White Com-Paint. Aerosol spray. Had tried it on some scratches on the bumper and realised that spray painting is not advisable for rank amateurs like me. One option is to use the nail polish clear coat, as you have mentioned. Spray some paint on a brush and apply it lightly on the affected area. It will surely show. But I'd have to live with that. Or take it to HASS.

A big NO for Com-Paints on Door panel of a Civic.
Mostly the'll not match, even if they match the colour, say after 1 month of use, you'll definetely notice the difference, it looks tad dull and heck if dust gets settled inside the paint.
We did a small portion of com-paint job on my cousin's Alto bumper, which had a minor scratch, we did finish well when applying.
After a month of usage, the paint was almost peeling and the shine was gone as it was looking way too dull, and one could easily tell the portion has been painted with some cheap paint.
So better avoid.

Am skeptical about getting the full door painted. Chances are that then the whole door may not match up after sometime. This happened to the Baleno, although it was done in a heat chamber at the MASS. The colour was matched but somehow the finish was missing. Must say this happened on only one panel out of the 3-4 times I have had bumpers etc painted/touched up.

Yep. I do agree, it's difficult to match the exact colour.
Bluish silver is really difficult to match.
Heck my Bluish silver was never matched in HASS (twice).
I had taken it to a local paint workshop(with booth) and got it repainted.
It's matched to the exact colour. One has to go to a professional painter.
Recently I had a scratch in my running board, got it painted from a reputed workshop in BLR, the paint was matched exactly.
Here
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ml#post2383074
and here
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/bangal...ml#post2395280


Even DOT got his car painted in a local garage, he's quite happy with the paint job.
Just give a try, if not you can get a touch up job done, Butttttt with bare eyes the colour difference can be noticed even from a distance.

[spadix]

Originally Posted by shuvc

Basically I drove like I would, to have fun. This is the result. Gotta love Honda engines!

That's nice! By the way you do realize that 9 in the dash is closer to 7 in real, right?

And here I am, driving like an angel and still unable to cross a 10.6 kmpl average (gathered over ~130 kms). I gave it to HASS at 39 with the odo reading 14+ and got it back at 40.5 with the reading at 10+, and my daily run of 5.6 kms one way means the engine simply doesn't warm up enough. In fact it's the latter concern (plus the general need to be defensive in Gurgaon to stay out of trouble) that's making me be very very gentle on the revs (not above 2.5k rpm generally in the 200 kms here so far).

Ah, the things one has to do for one's career.

Originally Posted by shuvc

It hit the right ORVM with a sickening sound. The ORVM swung in towards the body releasing the cab door - which then came and brushed against the door crease line. The front door crease line has a slight dent. The rear door has mainly paint damage. The ORVM has zero damage !

It's distressing to see the damage, shuvc. I will go with the others and suggest visiting and professional (and dedicated) body work shop. HASS will do a good job but will set you back a fair bit.

I wish the metal wasn't exposed. I would've simply ignored it (until the next service at least) if that was the case.

Take care, man. Always give yourself a greater margin of safety than you're used to in these oblique light conditions (even if those behind/around you honk).

Regards,
spadix