I know this engine and the bottom half is the familiar FIAT FIRE petrol engine- in the early 90’s I built one to 150 bhp!!—the engine, bottom half, can take a lot of pounding.
1. Yet the only reasons that this part of the engine would need replacing as opposed to rebuilding (that is regrinding, new rings, bearings and possibly pistons etc are:
a. The casing (the Block) is warped or cracked.
b. The bores are damaged beyond- 69.620 mm diameter. I.e they can’t be rebored to 69.630 max
c. Its easier and possibly cheaper to just get a new ready assembled one from the manufacturer.- The part no. quoted is for the complete bottom half- including crankshaft, pistons, bearings etc. ready assembled. (also- SA’s tend to prefer this option, as then the future warranty on this part is with the manufacturer and not on the SA’s quality of labour.)
2. Gasket Set No.3—contains all the gaskets—except Head Gasket—so don’t understand why they have quoted for extra gaskets-
3. Likewise the crankshaft oil seals- the Short engine comes ready assembled, including crankshaft seals.
These two above- might sound minor, in the scale of things, but it does lead to questions about the SA’s competence.
4. They have quoted for a OIL BODY/COOLER assembly unit—this unit apart from a plastic return valve arrangement- and oil filler pipe, has no moving parts—I just cannot see how this can be damaged, by the Engine overheating!--- Perhaps, they have worked out that this unit is defective, in which case it’s the root cause of the problem.
5. They have quoted for an OIL STRAINER unit—this unit is simply a square section tube with a stainless steel mesh at one end. No moving parts. It is even less conceivable that this unit is damaged. What they have not quoted for:
1. Oil pump and housing: The oil pump (is a moving part) is driven of the crankshaft and lubricates itself with the same oil that lubricates the rest of the engine. Given that the entire bottom half of the engine is damaged (as claimed)- it is inconceivable that the Oil Pump is not!!
If the Oil Body and Oil Strainer are damaged (as claimed)- it is inconceivable that the Oil Pump Housing is not! 2. HEAD GASKET AND CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS.
On all modern aluminium cylinder heads (especially multi valve) the head gasket and bolts have to be changed every time the engine is opened—even if there is no damage. i.e. even if its only opened for observation.
Perhaps the SA has not quoted for this because:
a. The SA has found the gasket undamaged—(in which case, goes back to the root cause being the Oil- Cooler or a leak).
However if the SA is planning to use the same head gasket and bolts—then He is highly INCOMPETENT!!
b. He won’t know which grade of Head Gasket to use until he has the short engine.
There are only three grades of Head Gasket for this engine—they all cost exactly the same!
But—this is the crucial point. The head gasket can only be changed 2 times (and possibly – once depending on Maruti’s manufacturing quality) with 1 grind possible if the factory installed head gasket is type A or B. If it is C then the cylinder head has to be replaced.
I get the feeling that your SA has not checked the Cylinder Head height.
Earlier you had mentioned that the Engine was cranking but not starting. So I am very surprised that a cylinder compression/pressure test was not done by the SA before opening the engine.
This is like someone with chest pain going to a doctor- the Doctor decides to immediately take a scalpel and cut open the patients chest- to see if there is anything wrong with the heart.
Earlier you had also said that the Oil Warning light was not on permanently and that the temperature needle had not gone into the danger zone- when you switched off the engine.
Can you also remember if at the time- before switching off the engine, there was an inordinate amount of noise—valve clatter, grating etc… and a loss of power.
Normally when the engine is about to overheat – there is still enough airflow (if the car is moving) around the engine to slow down- a little- the critical overheat point, at this point the thing to do is to drop the clutch, put neutral- coast the car whils’t switching off the engine.
If the car is still being driven when it has reached critical point- then everything goes.!!
If the car is halted and then the engine switched off near to critical- the bit of oil left “Flashes” to almost “White Hot”. This Fry’s the bearings, seals and “Glazes” the cylinders.
This is not such a serious condition- new bearings, rings rebore etc.. and the engine is as good as new.
Suggestions:
- Get someone more competent to do a diagnosis of the engine.
-Get hold of the OIL COOLER UNIT and HEADGASKET.
-Talk to maruti and let them know that you are going to get the oil cooler independently tested and examined ( Believe Maruti know about the Oil Cooler problem)
- On the basis of this negotiate for a full warranty replacement of the entire engine. Don’t even think off the SA fitting your old Cylinder Head on a new Short Engine—they will screw it up completely.
- Your second position with maruti would be to meet half-way on a new complete engine.
-Finally if Maruti don’t budge, and you have to pay yourself- get a costing on a new complete engine—both top and bottom halfs together are going to cost the same as- the SA using the old Cylinder Head on a new Short Engine> |