Continuing from the previous post:
Kenya & Tanzania –
The World cup hangover was too strong to get rid of (as if we want to get rid of it). But somethings equally close to our hearts had already reached Mombasa and were waiting to breathe free. We flew back from J’burg to Nairobi and then took an overnight bus service to Mombasa. The bus was dilapidated, actually worse than our State Transport buses but every seat had a working seat belt!!!! Next day morning we met Mr. Tabith, our shipping agent in Mombasa and immediately hit the docks. There the caged monsters were waiting to be unleashed. With almost tears in eyes, we hugged our Bullets who had survived such a long journey. The un-caging part created a lot of furore on the docks as the people were not used to see brown people riding big bikes – yes the bullets were considered to be bikes as – 1) you don’t get to see more than 100 cc bikes in Kenya and 2) the speedometer had the range till 160 Kmph – which to them implied BIG BIKE. Fortunately there were no repairs to be done and the bulls were raring to make their impression (literally) on Afro soil.
First Glimpse of Mt. Kilimanjaro on the way to Nairobi from J'burg
The Bull being unleashed
Getting ready for a new adventure..
Even the Chef of the Hotel we were staying in was curious to know whats going on
The Security Guard wanted to help us get our bikes ready. We had great difficulty convincing him not to do so
On your mark, set...
Off we go.....on the way to Voi (Kenya) from Mombasa (Kenya)
Voi (Kenya) to Taveta (Kenya), start of the real test of the Machine and the Man... Approx 90 kms of dirt road (I hate to call it a Road)
Anybody interested in participating in Dakar can do a trial run over here
Inspite of the road, the view around was really scenic...
Time to relax a bit...even the Bike needs a breather
In Mombasa we met Mr. Desai, an expat of 40 years. When we told him about our plans he was startled. He described the first hour out of Mombasa as 'the worst road I've ever driven on. It's a national disgrace. I'm embarrassed every time I take it'. So we confirmed the same with Mr. Tabith, now no more just our shipping agent but a close friend too. We thought that he might have been overstating it a bit. He wasn't. The main artery between Kenya's biggest port, its capital and the rest of East Africa was potholed, dusty and sheer disgrace. We started from Mombasa at around 12.30 pm, thanks to an 11th hour suggestion from Mr. Tabith for our vehicle insurance which is mandatory in Kenya. We reached Voi around 4.30 pm. It's a medium-sized town at the edge of the Tsavo East National Park. Till this point the roads were absolutely perfect (just as good or as bad as Indian roads)
Having had an hour of smooth highway we were hoping for more of the same on the 147km trip to Taveta. Alas, it wasn't to be. We saw a road that had been well constructed about 50 years ago, with a solid layer of rock at its foundation. The only problem was that the seal had long-since been worn away and rocks and potholes were all that remained. The rocks/road had permanent tracks on it, as if a few multi-axel trucks had run on it, while the lava was still hot!!!!!!!!!!
It was one of the worst trips we've ever taken. Every nut and bolt shook and rattled. Our faces were like an orchestra of pain - permanent grimaces the intensity of which changed only by the depth of the pothole and the resulting shockwaves running up our spines.
Driving our bikes, the way we learnt on Indian Roads and traffic, constantly took what ended as the wrong line. Whatever and however hard you tried it was difficult to drive above 15km/hr with super fine dust adding to the misery. Since it was the start our journey we were taking utmost care of our bikes and ourselves, but how long???? Before we had realised, we were already driving as if we didn’t own the vehicles and had determined to punish it as much as possible.
This is a video of the quality of road and imagine around 140 kms of it (this is downloaded from the Net, not shot by us)
Taita Taveta County: State of Voi Mwatate Road - Video Taita Taveta County: State of Voi Mwatate Road - Video
Part of this road runs through the Tsavo National Park and the remaining close to the park. We had read and also been told/warned that wild elephants would be a common site and STAY AWAY FROM THEM. Though we never intended to challenge these warnings, its difficult to understand how far ‘AWAY’ is really safe. And no sooner we could experience it. The road was really bad and the sand was extremely superfine which resulted into our bikes creating a dust cloud behind us. So, we were riding with a gap approximately 50-75 mts between each of us. At a particular point Dinesh was leading, myself in the middle and Ajinkya at the rear. And before we could realise, Ajinkya shot ahead of us with full speed (as much was possible) waving at us to speed up and follow him. We abided and took a halt only after about 2 odd kms. When Ajinkya signaled us to halt, the first thing which happened was me and Dinesh bombarding him with the reason to speed up. The engines still gunning and his eyes still scouting the road, he told that a huge tusker – probably didn’t like the thumping noise of the Bulls and decided to warn them off. With its head jerking and tossing, tail raised, ears spread the elephant charged towards Ajinkya from a patch which was running parallel to the road. Although he was around 75-100 mts away, the sight was quite scary and that was the reason Ajinkya sped up. Later on, while talking to locals we got to know that it could also be prank by the elephants, kind of ‘3 bikers ko sirf hul de ke bhagaya’, but we were not akin to their sense of humour..
Finally, after more than five hours, we arrived at Taveta and the Tanzanian border. It was a typical, dusty border town. We were more than eager to reach Moshi as that was the place where we could find slightly better accommodation. We were desperate to catch the world cup match between Germany and Spain. So checked in the first hotel that we came across and it turned out to be much better than what we had expected that too overlooking Mt Kilimanjaro. But both sets of immigration officials were positively pleasant - the Tanzanian guy not only issued our visa and offered some basic lessons in Swahili. Guess the kindness was majorly due to our bikes which were BIG compared to what they normally come across and may be the colour of our skin too helped a bit.
The next day after a lazy breakfast – thanks to the match which lasted almost till the midnight (local time) and the previous day ordeal of driving through the most pathetic road on Earth, we started for Arusha.