Continuing from the previous post:
The next day we biked to the base of Ngorongoro. Tanzania at that time of the year is relay lush with greenery. Because of the sweet noise that our bikes made and/or the terrain inside, no bikes are allowed inside the crater park. We had prior knowledge about this restriction and had anyway planned a tour inside the crater park for the next day. We did come across a few animals on the way to the base like giraffes, gazelles and few monkeys. Probably that was a trailer of the things to come the next day. The next day along with driver Ziggy, and Defender Land Rover, we left on time and drove slowly the 80 km of asphalt. The park entry fee of $US 25.00 per head seems to be too pricy initially. But it is the wilderness experience that compensates for every dime. The fold back roof of he Land Lover allowed us to stand the entire time comfortably.
About Ngorongoro – The Ngorongoro Crater is a natural amphitheatre created about 2 million years ago when the cone of a volcano collapsed into itself, leaving a 100 square mile caldron-like cavity. This caldera, protected by a circular unbroken 2,000-foot high rim (610-metres), contains everything necessary for Africa’s wildlife to exist and thrive. Game viewing vehicles descend the steep crater wall every morning and spend the day on grass plains that are teeming with animals. However, the dark of night belongs to the animals, and all vehicles must leave the crater floor by sunset. The crater plays host to almost every individual species of wildlife in East Africa, and there are an estimated 25,000 animals within the crater with Lake Magadi in the centre of the crater.
About Migration - Wildebeest location updates are available month by month giving the visitors the best opportunity to witness the east Africa’s wildebeest migration. The endless plains of east Africa are the setting for the world’s greatest wildlife spectacle - from the vast Serengeti plains to Kenya’s Masai Mara over 1.4 million wildebeest and 200,000 zebra and gazelle, relentlessly tracked by Africa’s great predators, migrate in a clockwise fashion over 1,800 miles each year in search of rain ripened grass. There is no real beginning or end to a wildebeest's journey. Its life is an endless pilgrimage, a constant search for food and water. The only beginning is at the moment of birth. An estimated 400,000 wildebeest calves are born during a six week period early each year - usually between late January and mid-March.
When it came to animal viewing we were probably the luckiest people around getting to see 2 cheetahs within touching distance for about 45 mins. Nothing can detract from the first viewing of Ngorongoro from the rim - 20 km across and the air just clear enough to see animals almost to the other side. A large lake at one end and smaller lakes and streams feed the crater. The air is really cold at 2200m before descending to the enormous hot plains of the Serengeti. Gazelle, wildebeest, zebra are scattered everywhere. The more frequent sightings are - giraffe, jackal, wart hog and hyena along with Ostrich, secretary birds and bustards even the occasional vulture.
Ziggy was a good guide and was providing us inputs about the flora and fauna time and again. The park s really well planned keeping the animals as priority, but even within the park there are two spots – where visitors are allowed to get out of the car, one is the breakfast area and the other is meant for Lunch. Both these spots had clean and well maintained wash rooms as well. Ziggy was taking us through the park and also narrating the history when suddenly the radio crackled (every car has one). Something was exchanged in local language and Ziggy put the monster in top speed. Smiling he just said, “Cheetahs” no doubt we were excited but actually not knowing what to expect. There was a rush of all these jeeps to a particular spot. Interestingly, vehicles from both sides of the road came to a halt at a particular spot.
On our right, in the grasslands we could see an elephant and a herd of wildebeest. But everyone was leaning and looking at the left side of the road. And Lo! Out of bushes emerge 2 cheetahs and the way cattle in India find their way through vehicles, they just ignored these jeeps (around 50 in number) and tip toed to the other side of the road.
This is where we were in touching distance of the cheetahs. Its head is small, its body lean, and its legs unusually long -- all bodily characteristics critical to a runner. This is an animal biologically designed to run. There was something breathtakingly sleek and elegant in the way they walked, the lean rippling lines in their flanks, the sloping spotted back, the slim, quick, powerful legs. Speed personified. They were scouring the plains for their breakfast. They would walk slowly, majestically, for a few paces, and then lift their heads to smell the wind and look at the plains. At one point they froze – the herd of wildebeest was grazing in the near distance. The tusker seemed to be aware of the potential drama, and strolled himself way form the scene.
Suddenly the pair went into stealth stalking mode, sinking into the grass so that they virtually disappeared, slinking forward long taut leg-stretch by stretch, low to the ground, the bellies almost touching the soil, moving ever closer to the herd. A few senior members of he herd got a whiff and almost froze sniffing in the pair’s direction. The alert ones looked up and around, ears twitching, unable to spot the pair but for sure aware of their presence and all this was unfolding within a few meters from us. Our throats were dry and palms wet. Were we set to witness something that’s only possible on Nat Geo/Animal Planet? Only if wishes were horses!!!
The herd now alert moved away from the range of the pairs initial sprint (Ziggy’s inputs) and slowly moved way to safety, with at least 4-5 wildebeest members watching the herds back by lingering behind while others trotted to safety - at least for the time being. We resumed breathing, and continued to follow the pair, who was scouting the terrain for next target. On some gut level we felt simultaneously relieved and disappointed. Life in the wild!!!!!! At the time we realised that watching this drama was a group of nothing less than 150 human beings and you could still experience what pin drop silence meant.. But, it was over all too quickly.
A few other treats -
A Lion resting after a heavy meal -
feathered delights -
Lunch time
A few other beauties
Ugliest creatures in the park then - From L to R - Dinesh, Rajesh, Ziggy & Ajinkya
Thanks to Ronald we spend that night at a small village at the base of Ngorongoro where we had kept our bikes during our visit to the crater. In all we did Arusha – Ngorongoro – Serengeti – Lake Manyara – Arusha on our bikes. Though time didn’t allow us to visit the Serengeti & Lake Manyara parks, Ngorongoro showed us glimpses of what pleasure watching wild life is..