[dinesha]

(Cont.. Day 5)


We approach the infamous Malling Nallah..


Ascend towards nallah..


Malling Nallah..


Scary gorge..


and scarier roads


We crossed the dreaded stretch, last year one of my friend had to abandon the trip and return from all the way from Maling due to blockage caused by landslide here

View from the Malling Nallah


View of the Malling stretch after we had crossed it..


Now the descend towards the Chango..


Golden Sand dues- Many call them Chango sand dunes..


More descend towards Chango.. view of Apple orchard near Chango.


Chango check-post under the rocky roof..Rapid descend of about a KM from Nako..


Kankani-entry gates to Chango Village.. we will go there on our return trip..


All the vehicles are stopped at the Chango bridge check post and entry of passenger and vehicle is made.


(Cont.. Day 5)

[novice_alto]

dreamy pictures Dineshbhai.. Very informative and beautifully narrated story. Thanks a lot for sharing. Waiting for more

[dinesha]

Originally Posted by novice_alto

dreamy pictures Dineshbhai.. Very informative and beautifully narrated story. Thanks a lot for sharing. Waiting for more

Thanks for liking my travelogue.

[dinesha]

(Cont..Day 5)

Apple orchard across Spiti river near Chango..


Green hue comes out distinctly in the muddy surrounding..


Nearing Sumdo..


We take a desperately needed break..


NH22 is in fairly decent shape..


except few bad patches..


Approaching Sumdo and Spiti beyond..


Sumdo bridge at the confluence of Parachhu and Spiti river.. check post across the bridge


Entry about vehicle and passengers are made here.. foreigners ILP gets verified.. ILP needed between Pooh and Kaza..


The NH22 zigzags up towards Kaurik.. view of Sumdo ITBP camp on foreground..


Welcome to Spiti.. State Highway 30 is our arterial route beyond those gates..



(Cont..Day 5)

[dinesha]

(Cont.. Day 5)

SH30..ascending NH22 visible on right. This road (NH22) zigzags up towards Kaurik (a non-existent and deserted village on Indo-Chinese border) and on towards Lepcha posts and other ITBP pickets.. Kaurik village was destroyed by the cloud burst in 1975 and all the surviving villagers were relocated by the government at Hurling .. Civilains are not allowed to take this ascend.. I wounder if RAP are issued for this stretch..


Condition of SH30 is more or less same as NH22


SH30 follows Giu Nallah for a little while before meandering along Spiti river..


We leave SH30 and take a narrow road on right toward Giu (Gue) village about 9 KMs on the upstream banks of Giu nallah..


The clouds above are thicker on the valley ahead..The roads leading up to Giu village is in real bad shape and at many places the sand and mud are continuously sliding down the slopes..


one or two small porting in the entire stretch has bitumen on them..


I am surprised that they survived the massive hammering last year..


The weather is more intense ahead. Although very rare, God forbid if it rained here today..the wet sand (already sliding down) will come crumbling down and block the road... It will be real bad to get struck at Giu with the family.. Look at those clouds and it is very windy out there..


..Not a single soul on the entire 9KM stretch.. at-least in SH30 laborers are continuously deployed by PWD to clear the sliding mud and the dirt..
This place has a gloomy and depressing aura..may be because of god's massive wrath last year..


No doubt people are very hardworking here.. it is not easy to survive in such harsh conditions, forget growing food and maintaining greenery..


Giu village at a distance.. the partially visible snow covered mountain is the last Indian territory in the Indo-Chinese border..


We reach the Giu village located at an altitude of about 3800 meters at around 4:00PM. I get down the vehicle and instant hit by very dry and very chilly wind...

I walk towards the mud houses and try to find some people who can direct me to village head to get the keys of Gompa housing the Mummy of Lama..

(Cont.. Day 5)

[dinesha]

(Cont..Day 5)

Giu Village, not many people in sight..


Finally saw this boy, he wants me to take his picture.. I oblige


He points me toward this lady.. I request her a visit to the Gompa housing mummy..


She takes me inside the village to located the Village pardhan..


I wait and take some shots..

Satalite TV..access to Saas-Bahu skirmishes




Trail towards on of the ITBP posts.. soon to be broaden as a border post road..


Not many signs of last years cloud burst.. we finally locate the village head.. he takes us towards the Gompa..

lone hand pump..


Gompa housing the Mummy of Lama..





(Cont..Day 5)

[dinesha]

(Cont.. Day 5)

Giu-The high altitude village along the Parachhu stream came into prominence in the 1980’s when villagers stumbled upon mummified remains of a human, which the locals began to revere as that of dead Lama.Locals held that the nails and hair of the rather well preserved mummy in the rarefied zone were growing till recent years.

Giu suffered it's worst natural calamity when it was hit by the cloud burst last year in which more then half of the village got washed out into Parachhu river. Local administration planned to relocate and resettle the village near Hurling. However relocating the entire village would also need to settle the issue of relocating the mummy which the villagers didn't want to. So the who relocation plan was scuffled and restoration work started in situ.

The Mummy


Mummy is kept (enshrined?) in a class cubical ..


Village head does not believe that the hair or nails are growing anymore.. anyways we take the blessings and head out..


Cloud cover and the wind becomes heavier outside with few rain drops here and there.. the whole atmosphere is eerie here in Gui.. I wish peace for those who lost there lives last year in the flesh flood..

Drive through the village..


I ask the village head what kind of work the villagers do during long winter months.. "They wait for summer" responds the village head.
Summer months is spend preparing for winter: growing peas on the land, repairing home and stocking for winter.. a harsh live to lead..

Village head shows us ongoing construction of a house for a village local. The primary construction material used in this house is wood and local grey mud - no cement is used. The local technique and materiel has excellent insulation characteristics which keeps out the chill during harsh winter months when temperature can fall bellow 20 deg centigrade .. There is a co-operative approach towards the construction where the entire villages participates and help out..



It starts to drizzle.. village head advises us to better leave the village as it was already getting late and if the road gets blocked no help could arrive before next day that is if weare lucky..


So heeding to his advice and self mind and heart, we move out..


towards State Highway 30..


driving along the serpentine road


our destination is Tabo for the night..

(Cont.. Day 5)

[AarEmm]

A very detailed travelgoue with amazing pictures ... a must read for all those planning a trip to this region.... enjoyed reading this travelogue and will definitely refer to the details while planning a trip to this area. Thanks for taking out time to pen this for all of us :-)

[dinesha]

(Cont.. Day 5)

Soon we were back on SH30 with our headings towads Tabo. Remember the good HPPWD labourers I talked about in my earlier post keeping the route clear of falling debris well ours was the lucky day.

Suddenly from the opposite side this PWD tuck comes...


and dumps loadfull of stones on the carriageway. He could have let us pass but no.


We get down the vehicle and approach the foreman knowing fully aware that nothing can be done and the labourer will take some sweet time to clear the road of the rubble. So we wait and take some pictures of the surroundings..


One has to admire the people working in such a hostile climatic condition.. the vigorous chilly wind is very dry here and travelers are highly advised to carry a bandana to cover their face and the nose beyond Nako... And if you are worried of tan apply plenty of anti-sun tan lotion..


The landscape is inundated with number of caves converted into temporary shelters to take refuge from hark wind and other adverse climatic conditions..


One the road is cleared we move ahead towards Hurling.. looks like bad weather ahead..


We cross Hurling and soon reach Chandigarh


Some light drizzle on way but soon stops .. again the drizzle starts little ahead and stops again.. a common phenomenon until next day afternoon..


Effect of glacier..


we reach Tabo around 6:00PM



(Cont.. Day 5)

[dinesha]

Originally Posted by AarEmm

A very detailed travelgoue with amazing pictures ... a must read for all those planning a trip to this region.... enjoyed reading this travelogue and will definitely refer to the details while planning a trip to this area. Thanks for taking out time to pen this for all of us :-)

Thanks for appreciations..
I hope this travelogue helps people planing this trip..

[dinesha]

(Cont.. Day 5)


We arrived at Tabo around 6:00PM, My navigator showed us to be at 3650 meters MSL. My wife and Kids were exhausted after very long and tiring journey. I myself was quite drained. Lotey had made booking for us at a place called Dikit Norphel which was hard to locate. I called up the owner Vineet Rana, he informed us that the they have changed the name of the hotel to “Tiger Den”, even Vikal knew it as “Tiger Dan”. On arriving there Vineet and his partner Manik(who I felt remains in perpetual high’) was waiting for as at the hotel gate. He further informed us that none of the hotel staff had turned up so far. They were suppose to come from Bihar. Saying this he starts carry our luggage to the first floor room. I was dumdstruck and felt helpless. I did not want to go out and look for another hotel. I felt little awkward for him to carry my luggage so I helped him with it.




Seeing the inside of the room was another shell-shocking moment for us. Imagine the dirtiest kept room in your hostel well it was dirtier than that. I ignored the open jaws and the stare from my wife and slumped down on the bed… A big dust cloud blew up as soon as my body touched the bed. My wife did not want to stay there with the kids but I somehow convinced her.

Kids were hungry so I went to the ground floor restaurant and ask Vineet for some tea, coffee and snacks. He looked at me helplessly and informed that he could not provide me anything as the kitchen was non-functional because of ‘no staff’. .. looked like we were doomed. I asked him about the dinner and he informed me that we should pre-order and the same would be arranged from another nearby hotel also managed by them.

I had seen a small café named “German Bakery” near the entrance of the Tabo monestry run by two Nepalese boys about 14-15 years old.



One of the boy informed me proudly that all the cakes and cookies (3-4 types of each) were freshly baked. I ask him for some coffee and the boy pulled out a Macchinetta from the counter. I was impressed. I brought two each of all types of cake (slices) and cookies sold there and carried them to the room. Coffee was quite good better then many coffee bar’s here in Delhi. About bakery items-some were good, some bad and some just OK.

My wife felt that the room was too dirty to stay so I fetched a broom and gave it her, (I was too embarrassed to ask Vineet to clean the room)… she cursed me but obliges. Our next door neighbor was a lady from Ireland, she wass going to stay there for a month and a half.

After a while I went down and chated with “Manik” who was busy rolling a joint. I found out from him that the hotel was ran by four young guys(Friend) from Shimla. They also managed another hotel in Tabo (I forgot the name) and the Dankar Monastery Lodge. One of the friends was at Dankar while rest three managed the two properties at Tabo -one of was the Cook on there other property. I asked him what did they do during winter months, “just party” he responded.

After some rest we went out to explore.

At Tabo Monestry



Fresh Snow on the mountains



New monastery building...



Sacred Scripts on the mountain..


Close up..
"Om Mani Padme Hum" most sacred mantras of tibetan buddhism.



Entry gate to old Monastery established in 996AD.



Glimpse Inside-will explore tomorrow



TaboHelipad-Calm, serene and quiet place, located on the banks of Spiti and surround by mountains on all sides.


We returned to our hotel at about 8:00PM, Manik brought us our dinner from their other hotel. Food was cold, stale and inedible. We tried to get some sleep but the smell from the rear of the hotel was quite unbearable. My wife generally never complains but that place was too much even for her.

Somehow we fall asleep, thank god we were all tired.


Leave Kalpa at 7:30 AM
Arrive Tabo at 6:00 PM

Stayed at : Tiger Den (0.5/5 Rating)
Contact info: Vineet Rana-9418817761

Other Staying options
--------------------
Nako
• Hotel Leo (Reo) Purgil-+91-1785 236339
• Kinner Camp-09650210909, 09418209566,09418339866
• Lavon Guest House-+91 1786 262 012
• Galaxy Guesthouse

Tabo
• Trojan Guest House-09418342999
• Ajanta Guest House
• Millennium Guest House at Tabo Monastry (01906-223315/33)


-------
(Cont.. Day 6)

[dinesha]

Day 6: 9-June-2011
Tabo-Dankar Monastery-Lalung (Lingti Valley)-Kaza-Kye-Kibber-Tashigang-Rangrik

Few words to describe the night at Tiger Den aka Dekit Norphel: Horrible. Stench and the noise from the rear of the Hotel was unbearable. (A nepali dhaba named "Sangita Dhaba" is located there).

I wake up at 5:30AM and head out to locate Manik. Previous night Manik had promised me (reluctantly) that he would accompany me to the caves. I could not find him, so I head out alone for the walk.

Outside it was quite misty with rains here and there.. There was a gloomy atmospheric in the village. Evidently last night the Tabo village received the tragic news of untimely death of few local residents along with some kids due to a vehicular accident. A group of school students studying at Delhi were returning home with the elders for their vacation, they started from Rampur around 3:00AM. By the time they reached Sumdo (around 11:00AM) the occupants and the driver (owner of the vehicle) were quite sleepy. The driver dozed off leading to the vehicle hit the parapet and fly off down the cliff at a quite wide and straight stretch of road. Miraculously a young boy was flung on the air and somehow his shirt got hooked on one of the branch of a tree. The shirt was slowly tearing due to his weight and right before the end a villager (in a tractor) saw him and saved him. Quite a story.

Looked like the landscape was also in mourning ...


Display at PWD Guest House at Tabo


Anybody looking for internet or trekking info there..


Tabo Monestry:Tabo Monastery was founded in 996AD. With its original decoration and art images intact, it is considered to be the oldest continuously functioning Buddhist monastery in India and the Himalayas.


Within the ancient monastery's compound are nine temples built between the late 10th and the 17th century and numerous stupas.

The main temple preserves an extraordinary wealth of documentation of the history and culture of the period. The iconographic program, dating from the restoration time of 1042, is complete. This includes paintings, sculptures, inscriptions and extensive wall texts


Stone engraved on the stone is heaped on top of stupas..


Ancient Mud Stupas..


New Monatery building behind the stupas..


Closer view of prayer stones offered by the devotees..


close up..


Tabo meditation caves located on the mountain across SH30. During the olden days these caves served as spiritual retreat for the Buddhist lamas. They used to come here for meditation and stay here in solitude for months at a stretch..


I retuned to "The Tiger Dan" at around 7:00 AM. A Korean couple along with their 10 year old son was getting ready to head out. This couple had come from Delhi in their Maruti WagonR and now they were returning back due to altitude sickness. They had to return from Kaza after one night as they were having problem breathing and suffered severe ache on the back of their skull (Both Husband and wife). They had returned to Tabo last night and and where still having problems. They informed me that they even stayed at Nako for 2 nights to acclimatize. I was little surprise to know that they were fine at Nako and were having problems at Kaza and Tabo.

Anyways we get ready. Vineet takes us to their other hotel for the breakfast. His friend prepares some pancakes, coffee and toasts some brown bread (from German Bakery) for us.

The mountains were still covered with fog and there were still some scattered drizzle. Heavy rain is very rare in Spiti but whenever occurs has devastating effect. last year Tabo was cut-off from both side for a week and few tourist were trapped there because of rain induced landslide.


After quick breakfast we head out of Tabo around 8:30AM.


Distance chart towards right.


We head left on SH30..



(Cont.. Day 6)

[dinesha]

(Cont.. Day 6)

Tabo bridge at a distance..


We move along the Spiti river..


on SH30..


Prayer flags..


The road is fairly OK..




However not much Bitumen on carriageway..


Landscape sculptured by the glaciers across Spiti river..


Might of H2O..


Nearing Schichling - a real bad section...I hope it is not too deep for the Innova..


We leave SH30 past Schichling and ascend towards Dankar through these gates..



(Cont.. Day 6)

[dinesha]

(Cont.. Day 6)

We leave the SH30 and climb up.. looks like bad weather towards kaza..


View from the Road




First view of Dankar Monastery


The erosion suffered mountain is situated across the Lingti river..


Monastery Lodge at Dankar


Panormic view of Dankar.. Photo taken from the terrace of the Dankar Lodge..


Closeup..


The Dankar monastry was closed that day to mourn the death of Sumdo accident victims..


View from the top..




Prayer flags on the road.. view towards Kaza..


After spending some soulful moments, we head back..


Descend towards SH30.. view of Schichling on the banks of Spiti river..


soon we are on state highway seen here meandering along the Spiti river..




(Cont.. Day 6)

[dinesha]

(Cont..Day 6)

Back on SH30 towards Kaza, but soon we will take a detour towards Lalung located in Lingti Valley..


We soon arrive at Rama bridge near Attargu on SH30.. a narrow unpaved road forks out on the right.. the sign board showed this road to be Rama Lalung Road..


and Lalung being 11 Kms from here


We drove this road about 2 kms and soon realize that this road is meant only for some serious off-road vehicles.. we take a U turn and are back on SH30.. There we see some local hitchhiker and on inquiry they informed us that there is another road (more drivable) to Lalung which we have passed 1-2Kms back..


So we take a U-turn on SH30 and head back about one and half kms towards Tabo there we see another road forking out from the state highway with the sign board showing Lalung to be at 14kms..


We take this road and soon climbing towards Lalung located on the Lingti Valley..


This road is also unpaved and quite rough.. but is in better shape then the other road..


we see some PWD labourers clearing the constant mudslides from the road.. they inform us that the road is drivable upto Lalung.. we happily climb towards Lingti Valley..


breathtaking views from this road ..



(Cont..Day 6)