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Old 14th September 2011, 18:31   #91
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Thanks Dheeraj for the amazing set of pics of Kailash Parvat and Charan Sparsh. Most of us here do not really know, if we would be able to take up or even plan do a trip of this sort. Each picture of yours and the write-up virtually transforms us into being there at that place, physically present.

I am sure, my mom would surely love to see the pics here, atleast she would get to see how Kailash Parvat looks and how Mansarovar looks.

Only lucky people get to do this and you got lucky twice. Would have loved to see more pics of Charan Sparsh. Hope Honey Arora has more of the pics. Thanks to Honey Arora for being brave enough and going ahead towards Charan Sparsh.
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Old 14th September 2011, 18:54   #92
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Dear Dheeraj,

Went through your whole TL today. I know I won't be adding anything new then what others have already posted here. Like your all previous TLs this one is also brilliant. Hats off to you .

Thanks Dheeraj for taking time to write it in such detail and with the same passion and devotion with which you took this yatra. As someone already said, even if some of us are not able to make it in a life, going through your TL will give some solace, at least.
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Old 14th September 2011, 19:07   #93
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Quote:
Originally Posted by amitwlele View Post
@deky - Any reason for calling it the Yam dwar? Not a very auspicious beginning i should say. OR does this Yam have a different meaning?
Its just to appease Yam before you start the Kailash parikrama!!! You see in our culture we need to please all God's just to be in their good books

Quote:
Originally Posted by kalpeshc View Post
Goosebumps

The pics are awesome to say the least. Never thought any mountain to be this majestic.
Its majestic indeed, The way it stands tall above all the surrounding mountains is a sight to behold

Quote:
Originally Posted by travelwriter View Post
For all those of us who cannot take the journey, this thread is as close to being physically present with the group of Yatris.

Thanks, Deky. I am sure you this excellent thread of yours will only double the punya you have earned by completing this yatra.
I dont know about the Punya part, but yes this journey has been fulfilling and magical indeed

Quote:
Originally Posted by traveloholic View Post
Thanks Dheeraj for the amazing set of pics of Kailash Parvat and Charan Sparsh. Most of us here do not really know, if we would be able to take up or even plan do a trip of this sort. Each picture of yours and the write-up virtually transforms us into being there at that place, physically present.

I am sure, my mom would surely love to see the pics here, atleast she would get to see how Kailash Parvat looks and how Mansarovar looks.

Only lucky people get to do this and you got lucky twice. Would have loved to see more pics of Charan Sparsh. Hope Honey Arora has more of the pics. Thanks to Honey Arora for being brave enough and going ahead towards Charan Sparsh.
Thank You, Hope your Mom enjoys the pics also. Poor Honey was just carrying 256 mb of storage in his (borrowed) camera so he could only take 116 photos i.e about 4 photos a day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LongDrive lover View Post
Dear Dheeraj,

Went through your whole TL today. I know I won't be adding anything new then what others have already posted here. Like your all previous TLs this one is also brilliant. Hats off to you .

Thanks Dheeraj for taking time to write it in such detail and with the same passion and devotion with which you took this yatra. As someone already said, even if some of us are not able to make it in a life, going through your TL will give some solace, at least.
Well, I am glad you guys are enjoying the TL
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Old 15th September 2011, 10:54   #94
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Re: DAY 16: DARCHEN TO DERAPUK (Parikrama Day 1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by deky View Post

Honey Arora climbed over the wall and the following pics are from his camera. This is what he saw on the other side!!
Attachment 609361
Attachment 609362

End Of Day16
deky, These two pics from your friend gave me goosebumps!!! Mt. Kailash is simply Majestic
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Old 15th September 2011, 12:35   #95
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DAY17: DERAPUK TO ZUTULPUK (Via Dolma La)

DAY17: DERAPUK TO ZUTULPUK (Via Dolma La)


Derapuk : 5056 mtrs
Dolma La: 5622 mtrs
Zutulpuk: 4792 mtrs
Distance : 18 kms
Time Taken: 8 hours

Route from Derapuk to Zutulpuk
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-11derapukhzutulphuk.jpg

Today had to be a 0530 hrs start as the plan was to cross the mighty Dolma before sunrise. Usually after sunrise these high passes tend to get windy, the streams start to over flow due to melting of snow and hence they become difficult to conquer.

Elevation profile of the route
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-11derapukhzutulphukaltitude.jpg

I got up pretty fresh in the morning and any discomfort last evening due to the high altitude had disappeared. I was all set to go. After a hot cup of tea, bournvita and some corn flakes we started our march towards Dolma in pitch darkness. Our torches were our only source of light and we just followed the Tibetan guide blindly, who was leading us. In fact for quite a distance the walk was not that bad as land is being leveled here too for making it motor able. Surprisingly even the attitude was not creating much of difficulties, maybe the walk to Charan Sparsh and the sleep in the night had helped us immensely in acclimatizing.

As we got closer to Dolama morning light started to set in and we could see the barren vistas around. The last 2 kms ascend to Dolma was very steep, but slowly and steadily we managed to get on the top. At the top there were some monks who had already reached and were offering their prayers. At 18,500 ft (some say Dolma is at 19500 ft, but the point I took the co-ordinates said it was 18,500ft) we had reached the highest point on our trip and from now on it would be more or less a descent. Though we did feel a little tired but the feeling of having achieved was pretty satisfying. Not waiting to spend a lot of time at this altitude we started our descend.

A few meters into our descend we saw the magnificent emerald green lake “The Gauri Kund” Apparently Lord Ganesha acquired his elephant head here. To reach Gauri kund one has to go down 1000ft on loose rocks and boulders and again the climb back is very steep, so usually yatris do not venture to Gauri Kund but ask their porters ( for a small tip) to collect water from the lake. But Mr. Honey Arora was at it again, he went down the lake, collected water and came back up in no time.

After Gauri Kund was a steep descent of around 3 kms, this descent was actually more tiring than the ascent of Dolma. Infact here was our test of mountaineering skills and test of our shoes, any wrong step would have us rolling down till the base.

As we went down we saw a few monks coming up. These were Buddhist from the BON sect who do their parikrama anticlockwise. Luckily we do not do our parikrama anti-clockwise as climbing up this stretch for most of us would have been next to impossible.

Soon we were on plain grounds and now we just had to walk along the river in the valley to reach Zutulpuk. But this was a never ending walk again. Every time we thought that Zutulpuk would be around the next hill, it wasn’t to be. So we walked and walked and walked endlessly till we finally reached our camp.

Honey and I were the first ones to reach once again and the last yatri came after 5 hrs of our arrival. Today had been a tiring but the most satisfying day for all of us. After all, the Kailash Parikrama, one that everyone dreams off when we start the journey, was almost complete.

Everyone slept peacefully that night!!

Day17 pictures

Going up to Dolma in Complete darkness
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07436.jpg

As the morning light started to break in we could see the barren and the rocky nature of the surroundings
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07438.jpg
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07439.jpg
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07442.jpg

The final climb to Dolma
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07443.jpg

It was all barren and rocky
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07444.jpg

With so many prayer flags in sight, Dolma could not be very far
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07445.jpg

Prayer flags and Monks at Dolma
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07446.jpg

The Gauri Kund
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07449.jpg

The only stretch of snow we had to cross in our entire journey
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07451.jpg

The steep descent after Gauri Kund till the camp below
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07458.jpg

Tibetans artists at work
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07461.jpg

The walk ahead was simple but long and with lots of river crossings
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07463.jpg

Himalayan Marmot
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07465.jpg

Passing time with the locals at Zutulpuk camp
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07465a.jpg

End Of Day 17
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Old 15th September 2011, 13:22   #96
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Dhiraj, That is a magnificent view of the north face that you have got during your trip. Comparitively, I have attached the best view that we got when we visited in June.

Absolutely wonderful narration there. I feel as if I am doing the parikrama with you as I read it. Truly your narration breathes life...
Attached Thumbnails
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc02961.jpg  

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Old 15th September 2011, 15:09   #97
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Deky,
Could you please let me know the two different routes you took up to reach Mt. Kailash from Katmandu and from India side through Google map?
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Old 15th September 2011, 16:22   #98
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

This is a Pic of Kailash Parvat that i had taken during my trek back in 1995.

I remember it being a very cold and wet night that we spent at the camp with great discomfort but the knowledge that we were so close to this holy mountain gave us strength.
Attached Thumbnails
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-parvat.jpg  

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Old 15th September 2011, 17:46   #99
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Dhiraj, exceptional feat and absolutely mind blowing to read this!

I must admit that I've ignored this thread thinking it's your 2009 one which I've been through twice. My sincere apology.
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Old 15th September 2011, 20:27   #100
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Quote:
Originally Posted by gopikb View Post
Dhiraj, That is a magnificent view of the north face that you have got during your trip. Comparitively, I have attached the best view that we got when we visited in June.

Absolutely wonderful narration there. I feel as if I am doing the parikrama with you as I read it. Truly your narration breathes life...
Thanks for the apprciation Gopi!!
In 2009, we got somewhat similar Darshan as yours from Derapuk. And this time for us it was absolutely clear. So I guess its just a matter of chance!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ramki067 View Post
Deky,
Could you please let me know the two different routes you took up to reach Mt. Kailash from Katmandu and from India side through Google map?
I have tried my best to depict both the routes in the following pic. See if you can understand

Black line- Route via MEA
Red Line - Route via Nepal (pvt operators)
Yellow Line - International border
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-map.jpg


Quote:
Originally Posted by Manuuj View Post
This is a Pic of Kailash Parvat that i had taken during my trek back in 1995.

I remember it being a very cold and wet night that we spent at the camp with great discomfort but the knowledge that we were so close to this holy mountain gave us strength.
Even for me Derapuk night was a bit uneasy, but the next morning I was absolutely fine. Would love you to compare the facilities 16 years ago!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudra Sen View Post
Dhiraj, exceptional feat and absolutely mind blowing to read this!

I must admit that I've ignored this thread thinking it's your 2009 one which I've been through twice. My sincere apology.
Thank You Sir, and dont embarrass me by apologizing. I am happy that you read it
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Old 15th September 2011, 20:31   #101
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Amazing. One of the best travelogue I have ever read. The snap from your friend Arora and the Gauri Kund is a dream place. What did your friend Arora feel about the 2km extra climb? Its definitely worth, but was it easy after that wall climb?
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Old 15th September 2011, 21:03   #102
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Quote:
Originally Posted by sridhar_setty View Post
Amazing. One of the best travelogue I have ever read. The snap from your friend Arora and the Gauri Kund is a dream place. What did your friend Arora feel about the 2km extra climb? Its definitely worth, but was it easy after that wall climb?
Thank you Sridhar!!

Honey Arora had an amazing lung capacity, he could sustain high altitude for a long time and was the quickest by far in our group. If a normal yatri would cover a distance in 12 hrs, he would do it in 6. (he was just nice to me by walking with me).

By the time I reached the ice wall, he had already climbed up without much ado. I also tried to climb the same but just could not manage. The stones, the mud, the snow just kept slipping under my feet. As per him the ice wall was the toughest and after that it was not much of an incline, but still dangerous.

Luckily he realised the danger of being all alone in such inhospitable conditions after walking 2 kms or else he would have actually touched Kailash and come back.

He also went down Gauri Kund and came back again all by himself, another feat that not many even give a thought too.
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Old 16th September 2011, 13:09   #103
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Day18: Zutulpuk To Darchen

DAY18: ZUTULPUK TO DARCHEN (Parikrama Day3)
Zutulpuk: 4792 mtrs
DARCHEN: 4874mtrs
Distance : 14 kms (10kms by foot, 4 kms by bus)
Time Taken: 3.5 hours

Google Map view of the route
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-12zutulphukdarchen.jpg

Today was one the easiest of the days in the entire journey. We just had to cover 14 kms in all and that too out of the 14, last 4 kms was in bus. Also if you notice the elevation profile the first 10 kms was more or less on plain grounds with a slight descend.

Elevation Profile of The route done on foot

When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-12zutulphukbus-point-altitude.jpg

As compared to the other days it was a late start. Well we had been on the march usually at 0500 hrs but today it was at 0600 hrs that we started our final parikrama day. The route as mentioned earlier was pretty simple and pretty flat. What also made this route easy was walking on motor able road.

Though we still were above 4700mtrs but compared to yesterday we had come down considerably and that was making us happy and we went singing and dancing all the way till the bus stop. In fact we covered the 10kms distance in just about 2.5 hrs, after all the hardships we had faced till now; this was like taking a stroll in a park.

The valley finished and we could see open grounds. These were the Barkha/ Parkha Plains and beyond the plain was the deep blue lake, The Rakshas tal and then were the Gurla Mandhata mountain range.

After some more walking we finally came to the point where the bus was waiting for us to take us to Darchen. This was the enp point of our Parikrama on foot, everyone paid and said good bye to their pony and porters and we were on our way to Darchen. The journey of 4kms to Darchen took only about 30 mnts. Our Parikrama of Mt. Kailash was over.

We still had the full day to ourselves, so some yatris decided to go to Asthapad. Asthapad is the place revered by the Jain religion. Also you get a very good view of the South face of Mt. Kailash from there. This trip is not part of the package so you will have to pay extra for this.

Since I had been to Asthapad last time and the weather also was not that great, I decided to do what I enjoy doing the most, and that was to sleep. In the evening when I got up, the weather had turned pretty bad, it was raining and we could see fresh snow on higher reaches.

So the rest of the time was spent indoors!!


Pics Day18

Bridges being constructed and paths being leveled
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07467.jpg

This reminds me of the windows screen saver
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07468.jpg

Today was the easiest day of all
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07472.jpg

The valley finished and we could see Barkha Plains at a distance
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07469.jpg

Gurla Mandhata peak from the end point
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07474.jpg

The Tibetan horsemen, well there are some ladies too
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07475.jpg

A panoramic view of the meadows at the end point
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07475b.jpg

I got up in the evening to witness this from my hotel at Darchen
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07477.jpg

Fresh snow on the higher reaches
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07479.jpg

Fading light over the mountains
When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011-dsc07485.jpg

End Of Day 18
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Old 16th September 2011, 13:51   #104
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

Thanks Deky. An absolutly wonderful narration of the whole journey. Feels as if I was there. Remarkable tour
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Old 16th September 2011, 16:45   #105
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Re: When I Went Walking To Tibet - Kailash Mansarovar Yatra-2011

The Tibetan Plateau


You could land a Mig 29 Here

These are actually meant to act as air strips in case of emergencies.
We have one in Kolkata too - The Red Road, is suppposed to act as an alternate air strip in any eventuality.

Will wait till the end of your travelogue to post about it.
Mesmerizing is ALL that I can say as of now.
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