[lordofgondor]

Viewing the "Walking back to our camp on the road..." pic, I'm feeling so darn envious mate! The whole scene (tall mountains, different shades of green and the lovely cloud cover) is so tranquil. It makes one feel getting lost in there, just keep on walking the walk in the lush green valley. Amazing!

Awaiting updates with abated breath.

EDIT:

Originally Posted by deky

Thank you for your patience

You're stretching it mate!

[deky]

DAY11: GUNJI TO NABHIDHANG

Gunji: 3166 mtrs
Nabhidhang: 4324 mtrs
Distance: 18 kms
Time taken: 8 hrs

Today onwards we were under the command of ITBP. We move when they tell us to move and we stop when they tell us to stop. We were all supposed to go in a group and reach our destination together, not like previous days when the last person is reaching 5 hours after the first person has reached the camp.

Today’s journey was divided in two parts.

• Gunji to Kalapani (9 kms)
• Kalapani to Nabhidhang (9 kms)

Approximate elevation of Gunji to Nabhidhang



Gunji to Kalapani


Gunji To Kalapani Route on Google Map


We started from Gunji at our regular time of 0500 hrs. Apart from the heavy breathing due to the altitude gain the terrain was pretty simple to walk on. Infact it was plain motorable road so the ascent was not harsh. We were walking along river Kali throughout this stretch and the sights were amazing. Also we got enough breaks here as invariably we were the first ones to reach at a stop and then we were made to wait till the rest of the group collected. Walking as a group served quite a few purposes for the ITBP. One being that there were a few river crossings here and all the ITBP personnel could help the group in crossing them. Also since this region is considered “disputed”, the ITBP personnel could provide adequate security if the group was close and not if the yatris were far and away from each other. Also medical assistance is easier if a Yatri requires so, as there was some ITBP medical staff also walking with us.

With plenty breaks and walking at a steady pace we were soon at Kalapani. This is supposed to be the origin of River Kali. ITBP has made a beautifull temple here. Also at Kalapani they had organized tea and refreshments for us. From here one can see the “Vyas Gufa”, according to mythology this is the cave were Sage Vyasa meditated. The cave is on a sheer 90 degrees cliff of a mountain, but ITBP somehow has managed to post a flag in the cave. Also from Kalapani one can see the “Nag Parbat” (weather permitting). The mountains peak resembles the fangs of a Cobra, hence the name.

Also this is the first and the only time when we cross River Kali and go on the other side. Apparently this part of land has been taken from Nepal on lease by the Govt. At Kalapani we go through Indian emigration and while we have breakfast our passports are stamped and returned back to us.

Kalapani To Nabhidhang


Kalapani to Nabhidhang route on Google Map


After a two hour rest here for breakfast and emigration we were back on the track towards Nabhidhang. The route got a bit more tough here or maybe it was just that we were above 13000 feet hence we were feeling it, nevertheless we carried on. My trekking partner and I decided to go in the front and coaxed the ITBP head to let us walk fast as we were told that the best sighting of “Om Parbat” from Nabhidhang would be by noon, so to get a good view we had to cover about 9 kms in 2 hrs.

We were not allowed to to be too far from the group hence we managed to reach Nabhidhang only by 1245. “Om Parbat” was partly visible. Actually on this particular mountain the snow falls in such a way that it forms the symbol of “OM” hence the name. Sighting of OM is very difficult as this mountain is mostly covered with clouds. Also the mountain next to Om Parbat is called the Nabhi Of Parbati (Navel of Parbati) hence this region is called Nabhidhang.

The group had collected pretty quickly as they were not far behind. Hot lunch was served and everybody was back outdoors waiting for the clouds to lift up from Om Parbat. Well the clouds did not lift up properly but still we got a pretty good sighting. Later as the sun was setting it was getting colder and colder, the wind picked up and that added to the chill. Nobody slept in the afternoon as today we would be sleeping as early as possible for tomorrow’s early morning start for Lipulekh

The ITBP is constructing a temple there so to kill the boredom we went there to collect some stones for them for the wall. Just ahead lay a helicopter that crashed a few years back. Inspecting the helicopter reminded us again the might of nature and the fury in can roll on us.

By the time we returned we got the message that tomorrow’s start for Lipulekh will be at 0230 hrs. Here the guides (Tibetan Side) and the ITBP keep in touch thru VHF sets as the crossing of the border for both the batches i.e the one going and the one returning has to coincide with each other.

That meant that we had to sleep early. We had dinner, organized our warm clothes for the next day, checked our torches and were off to sleep.

We will be in Tibet tomorrow


Pics from day11

Starting from Gunji, full Fauji style!!!


Straight file as we were supposed to be walking as a group


Road construction going on


A break point with my new made friends


ITBP helping us at River crossings


Walking along River Kali


To reach Kalapani we had to go on the other side of River kali


The stream that Ultimately forms the Kali river


ITBP temple and the rest area where they served us hot tea and snacks


The cliff that has Vyas Gufa


Closer view of Vyas Gufa


Nag Parbat almost under clouds



Kalapani emigration and breakfast area


After Kalapani the journey continues thru amazing scenery



Another break for the group to collect


Reaching Nabhidhang


What lays ahead tomorrow!!


The mountain that is called "Nabhi Of Goddess Parvati"


Om Parbat


Getting stones for the Temple


Remains of the crashed helicopter


Even at 14000 ft cricket finds its place


Having a laugh with my fellow yatri's


A satellite telephone booth. Its a bit expensive but yet essential to keep in touch.



End of Day 11

[selfdrive]

I superliked the picture of Om Parbat, can make out how it is shaped. Great work sir!

One question for you. A situation where perhaps a few people are travelling together (family/ friends) and one of them is told they cannot continue. Did this happen with any of those who were told they could not continue? If so, what did the rest of the group do?

[Manuuj]

Originally Posted by selfdrive

I superliked the picture of Om Parbat, can make out how it is shaped. Great work sir!

One question for you. A situation where perhaps a few people are travelling together (family/ friends) and one of them is told they cannot continue. Did this happen with any of those who were told they could not continue? If so, what did the rest of the group do?

I am posting a pic of "Om Parbat" that i had clicked on my trip to Kailash Manasarovar in 1995. We followed the exact same route as Deky albeit with a few changes. We had reached around noon on a very cloudy and wet morning. We were all sad that Om Parbat was not visible as we had all been praying for a good view all through the trek.

After about an hour the clouds parted and we had brilliant sunshine for the rest of the day till 5 pm. We all sat out in front and soaked in the view i am sharing with u all now..i hope Deky will not mind the intrusion

[Manuuj]

Sorry folks..i was unable to post the pic as the scanned pic exceeded the forum limit of 1.00 Mb for the pic. It was 1.03 Mb.

I hope i dont get into trouble for this useless post.

I can email the snap to any and everyone who wants it from yahoo mail if you PM your email addresses to me.

[simply_sunny001]

Originally Posted by Manuuj

Sorry folks..i was unable to post the pic as the scanned pic exceeded the forum limit of 1.00 Mb for the pic. It was 1.03 Mb.

I hope i dont get into trouble for this useless post.

I can email the snap to any and everyone who wants it from yahoo mail if you PM your email addresses to me.

Manuuj, you can resize the pic a little bit and post.

use some software like Irfanview to reduce the size.

[Manuuj]

Originally Posted by simply_sunny001

Manuuj, you can resize the pic a little bit and post.

use some software like Irfanview to reduce the size.

Thanks simply_sunny001!! here is my second attempt.

[deky]

DAY12: NABHIDHANG TO LIPULEKH PASS TO TAKLAKOT


I shall divide this journey in two parts

• Nabhidhang to Lipulekh pass
• Lipulekh To Taklakot

Approximate elevation from Nabhidhang till Taklakot


Nabhidhang to Lipulekh pass

Nabhidhang: 4324 mtrs
Lipulekh Pass: 5334 mtrs
Distance: 9kms
Time taken: 5 hrs


Route profile from Nabhidhang to Lipulekh


To start at 0230 hours we had to get up latest by 0200 hrs and we all managed somehow after getting only a few hours of sleep. Today would be a test of our stamina our will power and our ability to cope with unknown challenges thrown towards us by nature.

Apart from it being total darkness, it was raining and it was freezing too. Luckily it was not windy but still the cold was bone chilling. I got myself covered under 6 layers of clothing’s and was dying to move out. Dying to move out only because walking would have got some warmth in me and my limbs would not be as numb as they were now.

After the morning cup of tea and some cornflakes with bourn vita the group started to move. Ones who were on foot, like me, were asked to go ahead. Luckily the rain had calmed down to only a drizzle but it was still cold. Slowly as we moved ahead in torch lights we started to get a bit warmed up, but the exposed parts, like my nose, started to have frost formed on them. Making matters worse was the terrain that was full of loose rocks and gravel, also the rain drops falling on the path and freezing was making the route very slippery.

Slowly but steadily the march continued in the dark. Though the ITBP has put up lamp posts on the path but they are few and far between. Also due to the fog/clouds the light from the lamp was not that strong. So basically we could see some light far ahead and that’s how we knew that we have to reach there. Sometimes a lamp would be out of order and the next lamp would be around the corner at a height and to reach that lamp we would miss the curve and end up taking a steep ascent. The going was tough but the best part I felt climbing in the dark was that we could not see much around and only see the immediate distance so we were making short term goals instead of looking far ahead and getting disheartened by the terrain, the distance and the ascent.

After about an hour or so we were told to stop inside a broken hut and wait for the group to collect. This stopping was more of a burden than a boon. Actually we were losing momentum and re-starting would have been even more difficult, but at least it was not raining inside. It took about an hour for the group to collect and the journey started again. Everyone kept everyone’s spirits high by cracking some jokes or singing songs or doing some weird stuff. Well this did help to a certain extent

Slowly the morning light appeared and now we could actually notice where we were going. The path was really bad and was looking even more treacherous with so many water crossing, slippery boulders and barren surroundings. We could see where we were going but the cold and the rain still persisted. After about another hours walk we stopped again for the group to collect. This stop actually killed everyone’s spirit because we had to stop in the open. Since it was open and at a height of 16000+ and the day had started to break in the wind had picked up too, the O2 levels were anyways less and everyone was feeling fatigued due to the ascent. The group huddled together to get some warmth from each other and to save each other from the wind.

We started the walk again and soon we were almost at the top. Again we were told to wait. Actually the crossing at Lipulekh is a finely tuned event and it has to coincide with the batch that has completed its Parikrama in Tibet and is returning back to India. So till this batch has not entered India side our batch cannot enter into Tibet side. A few ITBP men go ahead to the pass and signal us from top once they see the Tibet side batch coming to India and that’s when we start our final ascent at Lipulekh.

Once we were at Lipulekh we again had to wait for the yatris of the other batch to cross over. Then wait again till the Chinese authorities checked our passports and let us in to their side. All this took another hour. This was the most horrible hour of my entire journey. The wind had picked up a lot at the pass, it was blowing thru my clothes and numbing me, the rain drops had started to freeze on my clothes, I could not feel my nose and I dare not sit to rest as the Chinese may think I am sick and deport me back to India.

Anyway, finally my name was announced and they saw my passport and let me in. But for me there was some more work at the pass. Being in the baggage committee I had to count the number of our baggage coming from India side and hand them over to the Chinese contractor. This did take a while but it had to be done and someone had to do it.
Atleast we were in China now!!!

Lipulekh Pass to Taklakot

Lipulekh Pass: 5334 mtrs
Taklakot : 3863 mtrs
Distance from Lipulekh to Taklakot: 19 kms
Time taken: 2 hours by bus


Route profile from Lipulekh to Taklakot


We had left India behind and were in a foreign territory. Walking into a different country was an interesting experience. I felt like some crusader from the past climbing hills and mountains and high passes, braving winds and storms to go visiting another country. We had also left ITBP behind and from henceforth we were to be handled by the Tibetan guides appointed by the Chinese Govt.

Luckily for the yatris, the Chinese have made a road almost till Lipulekh Pass. We just had to descend 1km down and there were jeeps waiting for us. This descent of 1 km made a lot of difference in the altitude too and we were getting our energy back, plus luckily this side it wasn’t even raining. The jeeps took us 4 kms down and then we had to transfer to a big bus that would take us to Taklakot.

The road till Taklakot is a gravel road, but pretty smooth. It’s just about 15 kms from here till the town but due to the descend and hilly terrain it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the town. Also we had to adjust our clocks to China time and China time is +2.30 hrs so by the time we reached Taklakot it was 1330hrs (CST).

We were taken to the Chinese Immigration, where our passports were submitted and we were checked for swine flu and our hand baggage was scanned. After completing all the formalities we were then taken to our hotel and rooms were allocated.

Taklakot accommodation is the most comfortable accommodation of the trip. Only 2 people are kept in a room and the room has attached toilets with running hot water fascility. Also Electricity is available throughout the day. So everyone got down to having a wash and also washing the dirty clothes. In fact the whole group had so many dirty clothes to wash that there was no line available to dry these many clothes. But luckily at Taklakot the sun was bright and strong and the air was pretty dry so the clothes were drying very fast.

The rest of the day was spent lazily sleeping or going out and exploring the market or just having regular chit chat with the other yatris. After dinner, everyone went off to their rooms and slept. It had been a long day indeed.

Little did we know that tomorrow’s rest day at Taklakot will turn out to be even a longer day than today!!!


Pics from Day 12

Waiting in a broken hut for the group to collect


The group slowly collecting in the drizzle


We could finally see where we were walking as the morning set in


The group huddles close together at a break point


Everyone trying desperately hard to keep themselves warm


Final ascend to Lipulekh


This is Lipuleh- waiting to cross over


Chinese authorities checking the passports and letting us cross


Finally in the bus and going towards Taklakot


At Taklakot Immigration


It was bright and sunny at Taklakot


A panoramic view of Taklakot City Hall and the surrounding mountains



End of Day 12

[rajcs]

Taklakot appears to be well developed for a border post.... especially in comparison to our side.

I'm glued to this post. Brilliant photo journal deky.

[deky]

Originally Posted by rajcs

Taklakot appears to be well developed for a border post.... especially in comparison to our side.

I'm glued to this post. Brilliant photo journal deky.

Thanl you, yes Taklakot also known as Purang is a pretty well developed border town. It falls on the old silk route and is still a very big trading post for India and Nepal

CONTD


DAY 13: REST DAY AT TAKLAKOT

Today was supposed to be a rest day at Taklakot. The rest day was supposed to be utilized in requisitioning porter and ponies for the Kailash parikrama, changing Dollars to Yuan’s for personnel use and of course giving the payment of USD$750/- to the Chinese authorities. Also today the food committee would have to go out and shop for perishables that were to be used for food during 8 days of our stay in Tibet. But destiny had something else in store for us.

I got up to total commotion and lots of shouting outside my room. I stepped out of my room to find the group members frenetically running here and there. This was not a usual start to the morning, something was wrong and by the looks of it, it looked pretty bad. I decided to get ready and then investigate what was happening, I thought it would be of no sense to just venture out and add to the commotion. Till then my sleepy head had not judged the severity of the situation

As I was getting ready my roommate entered and said “Dhiraj lets go “Mr. A” (let’s just call the yatri Mr. A) needs to be taken to the hospital immediately. He looked extremely worked up and his eyes were grim. Since I had never seen him like that, this is when I realized that something had really gone wrong and I immediately followed my roommate to the first floor where Mr A’s room was located.

I did not believe what I saw first. These are the things you read when you are reading about AMS on the net, but little do you realize or you think that you will have to experience it yourself.

Mr. A was breathing as if someone had kept a 50 kg stone on his chest, it was so heavy. His finger nails had turned totally blue and he was talking incoherently. Luckily we had 3 practicing doctors in our group who had already started to give first aid to him, and this is where our first aid medical kit that was given to us by an NGO at Delhi came in handy. In AMS cases first aid is ok, but the patient needs immediate medical attention and more importantly has to be given a continuous supply of oxygen.

A vehicle had already been summoned to transport him to the hospital. But our doctor advised that a stretcher is a must or if we carry him on us we might just loose him ( beds were too broad to be maneuvered in the alleyway) So precious moments were lost till the ambulance came, but to be fair to the authorities, the ambulance actually came within 5 minutes of us requesting one. We carried Mr A to the ambulance and a few of us with our doctors took him straight to the hospital.

The condition of the hospital is another story, but I think it’s immaterial in this case. All we wanted him to get good and proper treatment. Bigger problem was the communication between the Chinese doctors and us. The Chinese also wanted money to be deposited before they started giving medical attention. Anyway things sorted out after the guide interfered and Mr. A finally got a bed and his body parameters were checked.

Usually even at high altitude, 85% of oxygen in blood stream is considered low and Mr A had only about 45%, also his other parameters were way off the normal limit. The doctors said he was suffering from acute HAPE (heavy breathing, nails turning blue) and HACE (talking incoherently) and at this moment they can’t say anything about his chances. These are the times when your nerves are tested but unfortunately these are the times when the coolest of people also lose their nerves.

What followed was something that should have been avoided. Actually the Chinese doctors started administering medicines which our doctors thought were not the right medicines in this case, hence was an argument about who is right and who was wrong. Luckily that was sorted pretty quickly and it was decided that we will trust the Chinese and let them do what they think is the best.

Hours passed but the parameters did not improve. We did shifts in attending to MR. A as there had to be someone to take care of him at all times. In between the shifts yatris took off time to do their other essential work.

After 2 weeks of being close together, walking with each other, eating with each other, pulling each other’s leg etc etc, everyone in the group becomes like a family member. And if one member in the group suffers everyone feels about that person. Hence no one in the group was in the mood that day to go out and enjoy. Mostly everyone stayed indoors saying prayers for Mr. A and wishing him well.

Mr. A was actually a very quiet type of person, he did not take much part in conversations but he never failed to give us a smile whenever addressed too or crack a joke. He was almost 60 but he passed both the medicals at DHLI Delhi and at ITBP, Gunji without any problems. Infact he also had a pony for the route and he did use it. We also did not feel that anything was wrong with him the previous night when he slept. He looked and sounded pretty normal, so his condition actually came as a shock for us.

We think AMS started when we were doing our climb for Lipulekh. All the waiting at 17000+ heights did not go down well with his body. And the conditioned worsen while he slept in the night, so much so that when his roommate got up he found him unconscious and turning blue. That is when the alarm was raised.

This incident hit everyone so hard that during the day it was decided that all the yatris will have to go another precautionary medical checkup by our own doctors so that this condition does not arise again. The doctor checked everyone and prescribed medicines as per the requirement

The day passed and there was no improvement in Mr. A’s condition. The only bright side was that his condition was not getting worse, it was stable. After our dinner and lots of meetings for our further course of action the yatris who were supposed to stay with him for the night left for their shift to the hospital. Rest of us said a small prayer and retired to our rooms.

We did not know what was in store for us for tomorrow, but we were sure about one thing, that we will not leave for Darchen (our next stop) as per the itinerary tomorrow.

We will stay put and take care of MR. A and delay our itinerary.


Pictures from Day 13. Not many pictures as it was not the best situation to take photos off!!

The hospital


Precautionary medical check for the rest of the yatris in the hotel



End Of Day 13

[wanderernomad]

As usual the roads across the border are well built and almost upto the IB. I wonder why dont our guys wake up and pay heed to what our forces ahve been crying hoarse for a long time now. Its the same in every sector, we walk 4 days they drive up in 4 hours.

[Gansan]

Originally Posted by deky

Having a laugh with my fellow yatri's
Attachment 606610

How come some of them are wearing chappals at that altitude? What was the temperature at that time?

[deky]

Originally Posted by Gansan

How come some of them are wearing chappals at that altitude? What was the temperature at that time?

Should be around 5-6 degrees at this time so not that cold also. This pic was taken right outside our camp, so if I remember correctly these boys had come out only for dinner and then back to the warmth of their blankets.

[deky]

DAY14: ADDITIONAL DAY AT TAKLAKOT

Today was my birthday!! But I had more important things running in my head regarding Mr. A’s health rather than thinking about what will I do or how will I celebrate this day. I did not even know if anyone in the group knew about today being my birthday, nor was bothered. Our primary concern was Mr. A’s health and we were all waiting for the night shift yatris to come back from the hospital to give us some updates on his health.

Actually it was quite a dilemma. MEA was adamant that we spend just one extra day at Taklakot and resume our journey. But we did not have the heart to leave MR. A alone at the hospital, though I should say here that the Tibetan Guides were very helpful and more than eager to help doing duties at the hospital. If we left tomorrow, we would be leaving Mr. A all alone, though the guides would have been there but we felt , in a foreign country, it’s quite a morale boost for the patient if someone from his own country is there to look after him. Our itinerary would still not be affected as we had decided to do the Kailash Parikrama and Mansarovar Parikrama as one group and that would give us a few extra days. Usually the group is divided into half, one half does the Kailash Parikrama while the other half stays at Mansarovar and then they change.

One good thing was, that the group that was returning from the Parikrama would be returning to Taklakot day after tomorrow, so even if we had to leave tomorrow, Mr. A would be alone only for a day. We could only think of situations and solutions, but the final decision lay in the hands of MEA.

One of the solutions was a Helicopter evacuation for Mr. A, but that was turned down immediately. Apart from bearing the risk of evacuating a patient who is yet not in a stable condition, the Chinese also did not want an Indian Helicopter landing in their territory.

The other solution was that whenever Mr. A’s condition stabilize, he would be driven in a jeep till Lipulekh (as mentioned earlier on Chinese side one can drive till 1 km), then ITBP men will come 1 km into Chinese side with stretchers and Gamo bag and carry him till Nabhidhang , from where he would be airlifted . The Chinese had luckily agreed to this arrangement of ITBP men coming into their territory on humanitarian grounds plus ( I believe) from pressure by the Indian Embassy in Beijing.
But first Mr. A’s condition has to stabilize before any step could be taken.

Sometime during the day, we got the news that Mr. A’s condition was better, but he still was not out of danger. His O2 levels had increased and he was passing urine regularly. Passing Urine meant that his body was excreting all the water that it had accumulated. But one thing that troubled everyone was that he was still talking incoherently, which meant that he was still suffering from HACE.

By the afternoon the doctors pronounced him out of danger and our joy knew no bounds. Now that he was out of danger it was decided that we would be proceeding with our journey tomorrow and the guides will take care of him till the next batch does not come day after. The next batch then will take him with them till the border from where the ITBP will take over.

In the evening, the LO asked me to replace another yatris at the hospital as they had some work. Even though I was supposed to do the night shift tonight I obliged and went over to the hospital. Since the morning Mr A had improved considerably. His 02 levels were almost touching 90% and now he was more aware of his surroundings. It was heartwarming to see him coming back to life.

After about an hour I was replaced at the hospital and I went back to our hotel for my dinner. When I entered the dining hall I got the shock of my life, a pleasant shock that is.

The dining hall was decorated with ballons and there was a cake waiting to be cut. As they could not find a proper cake, they had innovated and made a cake of “suji halwa” and had decorated it with lots of dry fruits. I was almost crying!!

Not only my friends and now my family had found out that today was my birthday but they had also planned to make it special for me was really touching. After the customary hugs and greetings and cake cutting, dinner was served. It was definitely an evening to remember.

After dinner I still had a job to do. My roommate and I had to do the night shift at the hospital and we left happily for there.

After all we had celebrated two births today, one mine and more importantly the other one being of Mr. A’s

Few pictures from Day 14

Could not help stopping these young ladies and taking their pic


Arriving at the dining hall expecting dinner, but was pleasantly surprised


The innovative cake


With all the love and affection, I was actually over the moon.


The Tibetan guide group felicitating me.


End Of Day 14

[traveloholic]

Wow, Dheeraj. The last post put a smile on my face. It does show how emotionally bonded you guys were on the trip. I love your writing, it feels as if I am seeing it happen right before my very own eyes. Keep it up and keep the pics coming.