I am just back from VAISHNO DEVI trip and must say that, though the divine call came back after 16 years but it was an exceptional mind & body experience.
The last time I was there was on 18th Dec 2001. At that time the whole trek had looked like T-Series walk-through.
Things have changed for good and few pointers are:
1) If going by air, plan your travel from Jammu to Katra in advance. We were 7 adults & 2 kids & paid 5K for round trip for Tempo Traveler. We were informed that pickup by Tempo Traveler is NOT permitted at airport and hence an Innova & Dzire picked us from airport & brought us to a petrol pump (about 2 kms distance) and from there we were shifted to Tempo Traveler. However on the return trip, the Tempo Traveler dropped us back at the airport directly.
Drive to Katra is pleasant one with new roads & bridges and do try PAKORAS at any DHABA on the way.
NOTE: Just after leaving Jammu, I read a board stating that Non-Veg & Alcohol is banned in Katra.
I am not writing anything about Hotels/Lodges as it will be to each person's preferences and budgets. We stayed at WHITE hotel.
2) From any location in Katra to Main Gate, there are OMNI vans & similar vehicles available and charge about 100-200 bucks (for full load & not per person). Main gate has separate entrances for Gents & Ladies and police inspection are similar to airports but more casual. They will remove all tobacco/cigarettes/gutkha items from the person.
IMPORTANT: One requires Yatra Parchi (receipt for registration for the chosen day) and is available online for free on Vaishno Devi Shrine Board website.
3) A drivable road has been built up to ADHKUARI/HEMKUTI but not yet operational. This should decrease the trekking time drastically. Also it will be boon for kids & elderly as climb from Main Gate to Adhkuari is rather steep and tiresome.
Do carry sticks with you, if not for help in climbing then to deter monkeys who will snatch any eatable that is in your hand. Avoid giving chips and biscuit packets to kids.
Impressed to see that there are BOSE speakers fitted all along the route and they keep making various announcements throughout the day.
4) From ADHKUARI, battery operated (MAINI & MAHINDRA THREE WHEELERS) operate up to a certain point near Bhawan (Sanctum Sanctorum). However I found half of Mahindra vehicles struggling to make the climb. MAINI have employed public version of their four wheeled golf carts and are pretty good. Needless to say that they are fibre-body vehicles.
5) There are coffee & juice dispensing shops at every nook & corner so you wont be left stranded at any time. However they do not sell water bottles at these units. Shrine Board operates small restaurants at strategic locations and they serve generous meals at very reasonable price. Do lookout for monkeys at these locations and do not leave your bags or anything unattended.
6) Once at Bhawan, visitors are NOT allowed to carry anything on their part, especially any leather item or mobile phones. There are LOCKERS available (FREE-OF-CHARGE) near Bhawan. In fact two LOCKER rooms, LOCKER no. 1 is as soonest you arrive and LOCKER no. 2 is further near the Bhawan. One has to show the YATRA PARCHI and take a LOCK & KEY from the counter. Each LOCKER is a size of 35L microwave so pretty big enough to accommodate backpack bags and shoes and anything else. You can take two sets of LOCK & KEY on one Yatra Parchi.
7) You may purchase PRASAD (Rs 50 or higher) which comes in a JUTE BAG but it is not obligatory.
8) In case you wish to take bath before entering shrine then there are clean bathing washrooms near LOCKER no. 2.
9) Join the line at Gate no.3, frankly I could not make out where the Gates 1 & 2 were. It took us 45 minutes from joining the line & reaching the Bhawan. Just for elderly, you may have to climb small flights of stairs at three locations. There will be another round of police frisking along the line and you will be asked to deposit the coconut (If you have bought the PRASAD) at a certain location. You will be given hard plastic coupon for each coconut deposited.
I noticed a lift operating from another location and it probably takes one directly to the Bhawan floor - probably for elderly/handicaps.
10) The original/old cave (Gufa in local lingo) is usually closed and so was on this occasion. There are two separate and simpler entrances now. You can read about deities at shrine on Google so not elaborating. On a good day, you may get 10-15 seconds for DARSHAN.
Once done with DARSHAN you may come out and take few minutes to enjoy the scenic surrounding mountains.
11) Once done with DARSHAN, one have to climb down few long flight of stairs and arrive at DONATION counter and again it is not obligatory. However do collect the PRASAD which comes in twin paper pouches, one containing sugar candies and another a small silver coin. Diagonally opposite to PRASAD counter is another counter, from where you are returned back a coconut for each hard plastic coupon that was given to you earlier (Meaning - you are not allowed to carry coconut in the Sanctum Sanctorum).
12) Take some rest or take your fill at restaurants here. Along with local shops, Cafe-Coffee-day & a South Indian restaurant chain, Sagar-Ratna runs places here. Please do note that all these places serve food without Onion and Garlic.
13) You can now collect your things from LOCKER room and head to BHAIRON temple, which is located at the summit of the mountain. This trek is pretty steep and not for elderly or kids. You may rent ponies and the price is fixed by the Shrine board and displayed clearly everywhere.
I noticed that they is work in progress for cable cars from a location near Bhawan, up to Bhairon temple. Once operational, this will be another boon for elderly & kids.
NOTE: If climbing/walking up the summit, then either keep the PRASAD bag in your backpack or carry it tightly. Monkeys will snatch them otherwise.
We walked.
14) The system at BHAIRON temple is simple and there are no special restrictions on what & what not to carry. It took us hardly ten minutes to finish up with Bhairon darshan.
15) From here the trek starts downwards and you may stop to enjoy helicopters landing sites located at this side of the mountain. It is a different route downwards up to ADHKUARI and then the route is same as the one you walked up.
16) While climbing, take short breaks every 200-300 steps (pedometer helps) but not too long.
NOTE: The climbing will test your thigh muscles and walk down will test your calf muscles. Believe me, walk down is more tiresome then climbing.
17) Avoid visiting RAGHUNATH TEMPLE at Jammu, even if someone recommends. Not meaning or wishing to offend anyone but you can read about negative feedback on internet about it.
It broke my heart to see mountains turning brown from green.
Jai Mata Di-Sonu