Total Distance - 235 KMs
Departure time -9.45 AM (Bhopal)
Arrival time - 7.45 PM (Sagar)
Road condition - Mixed
Breaks - Bhojpur (45 Minutes), Sanchi (one hour)
Max speed - 130 KMPH (I never crossed this limit throughout the trip)
Best stretches - Chiklod to Raisen.
Worst - NH 83 beyond Sanchi is misery
We get up early and plan to go to city for a Poha – Jalebi breakfast. We hire an auto rickshaw. It is Navaratri morning we see women folk thronging the temples. I had read somewhere that Sharma’s in old city is one of the best for Poha-jalebis and ask the driver to take us there. Poha is ready and Sharmaji is busy preparing Kachoris and Jalebis. There is already a crowd in front of the shop.
In front of Sharmaji's shop Sharmaji ready to serve
We order Poha followed by Kachoris and jalebis. Poha prepared here is similar to what we in Karnataka call “Avalakki Oggarane”. The Poha used here is thin unlike the thick ones we use here. It is also tangy as there is dash of lemon on that. No coconut of course. It is soft and tasty. Hot jalebis are yummy and go very well with Poha and kachoris. The auto guy takes us to another place making Suleimani chai and we wash poha with glass of Suleimani chai.
Energised, now we are on the whirlwind tour of the famous mosques of Bhopal – Taj- ul - Masjid and Moti Masjid. Of the two, Taj looks beautiful with its minarets towering high in the sky. Located next to Chota Talab, the waters of the lake adds to the beauty of the mosque. It is one of the largest mosques in Asia. Moti Masjid is smaller and located in the city is smaller than Taj but is a charming mosque looking similar to the Jumma Masjid of Delhi. The colors look very harmonious and lovely.
Taj -ul -Masjid as seen from the banks of Chota Talab Taj -ul -masjid - zoomed shot Moti Masjid
I am not going into details as this can be got from Wiki link here. What is interesting to know is Bhopal was ruled by women for two centuries and they were visionaries and did lot of good to the city. This mosque was the vision of Sultan Shah Jahan, Begum of Bhopal.
A wiki link on the msajid
Taj-ul-Masajid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A quick tour of the city – we still missed out many like Bharat Bhavan, Anthropological museum, and boat ride in the lake – we were back in the hotel to check out and move to Bhojpur, our next stop.
Ever since I read about Bhojpur and the massive unfinished temple with tallest Shiva Ling in the world, I am excited to see the place. The road to Bhojpur is good and we reach the place in an hour. The Bhojpur road seems to be the favourite of founders of private engineering colleges as we see more than four of them. The traffic in the city is manageable at 10 AM and we cross Betwa river to reach Bhojpur at 11 AM. We did expect crowds due to Navaratri but there is hardly any except for a bunch of kids from a local school in Bhopal.
The Betwa river
The first sight of the temple tells you what to expect – the massiveness. You won’t get disappointed when you go closer. Our jaws drop when we see the massive Shiva linga on a large platform. It is really tall. Bhojeshvara temple built by Raja Bhoja in 11th century could have been the largest temple had it been completed. It houses the tallest Shiva Linga in the world – taller than the one in Brihadeeshwara temple in Tanjavur. The incomplete dome could have been the largest and is supported by four massive pillars. The main entrance is embellished with exquisite sculptures of Yakshis. The side walls have intricately carved balconies.
The temple from distance The massiveness hits you as you come close Temple entrance - notice the height! Lord Bhojeshwara Tallest Shiva Ling in the world!! Notice the massive pillars in the background to support the dome of the temple Yakshis on the entrance walls
For more on Bhojeshwara temple here is the link.
Bhojpur, Madhya Pradesh - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
From Bhojpur we proceed towards Sanchi. We drop the idea of going to Bhimbetka Rock Shelters as it would have taken us another one and half hours. We had planned to reach Chattarpur by evening and had to skip Bhimbetka.
We take the road via Chiklod kalan to reach Raisen and onwards to Sanchi. Google map and map my India again ditch us and we ask locals for directions. As we reach the Bhojpur road – Bhopal road junction, we turn right towards Chiklod Kalan. The first ten KMs is a horrible drive on a potholed road. Our misery end when we near Chiklod Kalan after which the road is excellent and we pass through some of the pristine forests and small lakes of MP to join NH 86 before Raisen. Sanchi is at a distance of 22 KMs from Raisen.
Hers is the Wikimap of the route taken
The Buddhist monuments of Sanchi are a World heritage site. Spread over a small hillock, it has stupas, remains of monasteries and temples. Being a weekday afternoon, first thing we notice is that the place is calm and peaceful. An odd tourist from Korea is the only one we see. We start exploring the monuments built by Ashoka in 3rd century BC. Let me take yu through a pictorial tour of the place.
Panoramic view of Stupa 1 Stupa 1 flanked by North and South thoranas. Thoranas are beautifully decorated with sculptures and depicts life stories of Buddha and Jatakas. Stupa 1 from West thorana Deatails trapeze of sculptures on thoranas are given in these to help vsitors identify and understand them North Thorana - Stupa 1 - A pristine beauty!! Shilabhanjikas on the thoranas Buddha preaching Sakhyas in Nyagrodharma. Buddha is not depicted in life form anywhere in these as it was a later development. Dwarapalas Royal procession Four drives that Buddha as Gautama West thorana Well preserved monastery 51 Stupa No 7 Dwarfs on thorana - each one has different expressions on their face!! Temple ruins Temple 18
For more details of on Sanchi here is the Wiki link.
Sanchi - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Sanchi exploration continues.......