[gypsyFreak]

This is my first travelogue in Tbhp. I have made numerous coastal Karnataka trips but never had the patience to write a travelogue. By coincidence, while i was travelling to Goa another bhpian Melvyn Misquita was travelling to Mysore. After going through his travelogue decided to write my own travelogue.

Here it goes...


Since quite a long time me and my wife were planning to visit Goa. This year we had visited costal Karnataka numerous times and had gone upto Gokarna. As such we had covered most of coastal Karnataka and now wanted to explore Goa

In May 2011 while browsing through T-Bhp came across queries from a certain t-bhpian on Mysore(little did I know that this bhpian Melvyn Misquita would be our virtual guide in Goa). At this moment a thought came across my mind to use T-BHP as a rich source of information and plan my travel. This was the trigger for this trip.

Next, we were on the look out for suitable holidays in the range of 7 days. Me being in the IT industry knew that work would be less during year end and also wifey will be having Dasara vacation in Oct. So, Oct last week it had to be.

Still there were numerous hurdles and we were not sure whether we will be able to make the trip. Hence I decided that we’ll do as little planning as required and then plan rest of it as the trip progresses. Having got in touch with Melvyn, knew that we would be able to get whatever information required.

Fast forward to Oct 3rd week, having finally decided to go ahead with the trip, there was one obstacle remaining. A week back I participated in a Shuttle tournament and now was through to the semi finals. The semi finals and finals were on Oct 23rd . So had to reschedule the trip to start on Oct 23rd.

Being a quick plan, we just packed the necessities, the previous night and were ready to start by 10 am on Sunday. Tanked up my Esteem at Shell and had general check up at Mandovi motors the previous day.

In the morning went for the match, lost in the semi finals. So having this out of my mind next was the drive to Jog which I was looking forward to.

The onward plan was to leave Mysore by 10:30 am and drive to Shimoga/Sagar halt for the day and then drive to Goa the next day.

Day 1: Mysore – Arsikere – Shimoga – Sagar (320 KMS, 6 hrs)

Started from Mysore at 11:30 AM and reached outskirts of Arsikere around 1:30 PM. We had packed lunch from home. Parked under a big banyan tree and had sumptuous rice pulav.


Having lunch


Roads just before Arsikere



After lunch moved on towards Arsikere, as we entered Kadur town there was a big crowd who had gathered on the NH. We were wondering why this was then came face to face with Kannada film actor Darshan, who was brand building excerise for his film “Sarathy” after his recent personal life debacle.

After this encounter of the filmy kind we reached Shimoga by 4 pm, decided to drive on to Sagar and look for accommodation there as it was nearer to Jog and we can start early the next day to Goa.

Reached Sagar by 5:30 pm and drove into Hotel Vardashree. Here, all the rooms were booked and we had only Non AC Suite costing Rs 680/-. We took it and retired for the night.


Vardashree Hotel rooms


another shot

Day 2: Sagar – Jog Falls – Unchalli Falls – Mirjan – Palolem – Panajim (323 KMs)

In the days before the trip had learned from TBHP that the stretch between Jog and Honnavar is very bad. Checked with TBHPian Ravi Bhat who suggested an alternative route via Siddapur – Unchalli Falls – Devimane Ghat to NH 17.
Many thanks to Ravi Bhat for checking the road conditions and then messaging me the route. So, with these route points, I was able to plot a route on Mobile. (I have a GPS mobile with Nokia Maps and Mapmyindia installed)

Started by 7:30 am from Sagar and reached Jog by 8:00 am. I guess we were the first tourists on that day. Checked out the falls which was very thin and did not think of doing any other adventures as our plan was to reach Goa.


The bridge which needs to be crossed to Jog Falls


Jog Falls


Jog Falls Parking lot

Reached Siddapur by 9:30 am and had breakfast at Hotel Anuradha (don’t remember the name correctly) and then moved towards Unchalli Falls following Ravi Bhat’s directions.

On the way to the falls encountered two reptile inhabitants of the forest. Was able to take snap of only one. Guess this should be a Cobra (not King Cobra) and other was a Green Snake probably a non venomous.


Road to Unchalli Falls


Cobra crossing




We then reached Unchalli falls after a short trek of 500 mts. We were pleasantly surprised by the view and amount of water here. It was definitely better than Jog.


Trek route to Unchalli falls


The falls

Our next destination was Palolem, Goa where we had to meet Bernard Fernandez (a relative for Melvyn). From Unchalli falls we reached the Kumta Siddapur SH at Ammenahalli and took left towards Kumta.

I guess it was in this stretch we met another bhpian VSH, but did not realize it until after the trip.

Had lunch at Ankola and entered Goa. Few things that come to our mind as we entered Goa:
Firstly we were surprised by how the quality of roads improved as soon as we entered Goa.
Secondly there lot of Bars in Goa. We can say that Bars are common to Goa as there are petty shops in Mysore/Bangalore
Thirdly, there are very few petrol pumps in Goa. (atleast that’s what I felt when compared to Karnataka)
Finally petrol is cheap, it was about Rs 66.68/-. This is about 9 Re less than Karnataka.
After my initial tank up at Mysore, I had filled about Rs 500/- worth at Siddapur. So first thing I did was search for petrol pump and tank up.
Then we reached Palolem and drove straight to the beach. This beach was full of foreigners and everything was dealt at dollar rates. We checked with Bernard and he gave us few hotel names. My wife said a big NO for this place. Even the beach was not that clean. So we decided to drive on and reach Panjim and then stay at Sandpebble Holiday home. We had booked here from Oct 25, called up the owner and she said the rooms are ready. So we drove Panjim and crossed over to Candolim and then reached Sand pebble Holiday home.
We first checked the rooms and did not like it. So dialed Melvyn and asked him if there is any good accommodation around. He said he will check and let us know. While we were waiting, the owner showed us another room and told us he had shown the wrong room initially. This was better and we took it. Called up Melvyn and told him we got the room. He had infact asked a friend to search for accommodation in Goa. Finally we checked in, had dinner at one of the nearby hotels and retired for the night. The rooms cost us Rs 500/- a day. Quite cheap I think.


Kitchen


Room


Toilet (Paris )

Next day it was Beaches, Churches and Cathedrals
To be continued...

[himavanth_m]

I have never heard of Unchalli falls. The pic of the falls you shared looks very inviting. If you have more pics, could you please post them? Also could you please specify the approximate distance for Unchalli Falls From Siddapur? It would be helpful for me.

I have gone all the way upto Jog falls and Karwar, but I now feel that I missed a beautiful trek to the falls. IMO during this time around, Unchali falls seems more scenic going just by your pic

Thanks for the travelogue

[Dr.Sav]

Neat pics. Waiting for more. The Unchalli falls look immaculate.

But, tell me, are these falls only for scenic value or can you get into those waters?

Again, let me compliment you on your snaps taken. Your baby (the Esteem) looks neat.

[gypsyFreak]

A small correction in the first post: Bernard Fernandez is a friend of Melvyn not a relative.

Originally Posted by himavanth_m

I have never heard of Unchalli falls. The pic of the falls you shared looks very inviting. If you have more pics, could you please post them? Also could you please specify the approximate distance for Unchalli Falls From Siddapur? It would be helpful for me.

I have gone all the way upto Jog falls and Karwar, but I now feel that I missed a beautiful trek to the falls. IMO during this time around, Unchali falls seems more scenic going just by your pic

Thanks for the travelogue

I have more pictures and will post them later. Please find below route map i followed to reach Unchalli Falls. Road conditions are pretty ok with occasional potholes.



The trek is only 500 mts but very steep.

Originally Posted by Dr.Sav

Neat pics. Waiting for more. The Unchalli falls look immaculate.

But, tell me, are these falls only for scenic value or can you get into those waters?

Again, let me compliment you on your snaps taken. Your baby (the Esteem) looks neat.

Officially speaking these falls are only for scenic value(good value that is). But as with any other water falls, there are unofficial (read dangerous) paths leading to the waters.
In fact, during our visit, there were a bunch of youth who had taken the adventours path to the water, but we thought otherwise.

[MX6]

The food under the banyan tree transported me to the 80s! Lovely start to a log. BTW, the snake looks more like a Rat Snake. I've always seen the Unchalli falls board someplace near Sirsi. Never bothered to take a detour. Looks good!

[aravind84]

Nice start. Whats your first impression of the party town?

The snake looks to be a rat snake and experts, your comments please

Jog Falls on any given day is a mesmerizing spot.

Waiting to read the rest of the travel.

[misquitas]

Originally Posted by aravind84

Jog Falls on any given day is a mesmerizing spot.

Looking at the Sudeep's snap on this thread as well as memories of my July 2010 trip to jog Falls, I would say that Jog Falls WAS a mesmerizing spot. The trickle of India's (reported) tallest falls is rather a disappointment to an eager visitor.

I remember visiting Jog falls with my wife during our honeymoon in Jan 2000 and the Jog Falls were truly wonderful. Huge quantities of water were gushing out of the four waterfall and they were a delight at the time. Nothing like what I had witnessed in July 2010.

Sudeep, great work so far.

[gypsyFreak]

Before continuing with my travelogue few photos of day 1 and 2.

Me on top of my car



my wife trying to rekindle her joys of childhood



this is where we had lunch besides green fields



Me at jog falls



along with my wife



my two loves...



This place is on the road to Unchalli falls, we were tempted to stop and do some exploration



Nice spot to wet your feet



The parking lot and entrance to Unchalli falls



The trek route



the pictures don't convey the steepness of the path



The Unchalli falls



First view point



Steps leading to second and third viewpoints



Third view point



rainbow formed by the steam and sunlight



the gorge from the falls



steps covered by dense growth



the unofficial path leading to the gorge below

[misquitas]

Photos in your above post cannot be viewed. Kindly verify if you have attached them properly.

Thanks,

[gypsyFreak]

Originally Posted by misquitas

Photos in your above post cannot be viewed. Kindly verify if you have attached them properly.

Thanks,

yes ... had some trouble figuring out how to attach. finally have it in place

[gypsyFreak]

Day 3: Churches – Cathedrals – Beaches

Day 3 started with breakfast at the famous South Indian Hotel, Kamat Hotel. Small and crowded and expensive hotel. We had quite a heavy breakfast there on Dosas and idlies (little did we know we would end up here for the major part of the stay in Goa)

After breakfast visited Church and then Singbal’s bookstore. Next plan was to visit Bom Jesus church and Se Cathedral. Out came the GPS and a route was plotted Old Goa.
We were surprised by the number of Churches in old Goa. It’s like there is one Church in each road. The drive was nice as the roads were in good condition. I always keep wondering why is it that roads in coastal Karnataka are not in good shape even though they receive the same amount of rainfall and same density of vehicles. Is it the government apathy or just plain carelessness. That’s all together a different topic.

We reached Bom Jesus church when the sun was at it’s highest point in the sky, right above our heads. This meant lot of heat and humidity. Me, staying in the cool climates of Mysore and within the air conditioned walls of MNC started sweating like anything. Even in indoors was not much different. So, gave the handycam to my wife and started walking around with a point and shoot camera hoping to find a nice cool place.



























After Bom Jesus church, it was Se Cathedral .












This was the first time in my life I went inside a church, few observations here:
1. Footwear are allowed inside churches. We felt this is quite different when we compared against temples
2. You are allowed to take photos inside a church no matter it is big or small. This is not the case in temples
3. The church architecture is totally different, you have big halls with very high roofs and glass domes. This allows more air and light

After this came back to the room and cooled down. It was time to head to the beach…Calangute beach.

Had a good time in the beach, here we met with a family of doctors & engineers who driven from Bangalore in their Alto.









After the dip in the beach, wifey did some shopping and then it was time to eat. We thought of having sea food right on the beach, but the whether did not look good so headed for a restaurant near the beach. This is where the bomb fell on my stomach which changed our plans. I ordered chilly mixed sea food platter along with some soda. We finished dinner meantime it started raining. (Good we went to restaurant instead of the beach and a good respite from the heat) and went back to the apartment.

Next day was a very bad for me...ended up in the hospital (almost)

[gypsyFreak]

Day 4: Panjim – Cabo de Rama – Benaulim – Hospital - Panjim

Fourth started badly with me having made 3 trips to Paris by 8 am. We had planned to drive to Cabo de Rama which is in South Goa and then make our way back by visiting some good beaches. We drove to Cabo de Rama which is kind of remote location with 1 loo stop at Café Coffee Day, Margoa. We reached the place and were surprised.
We could see a fort here but where is the crowd. There are only cows and cowherds. Made a call to Melvyn and came to know that we were in the right place, just that it was void of any maintenance or activity.
It was ideal place for love birds and we spotted quite a few of them. We made our explorations and photo sessions then moved on.

Cabo da rama fort, my wife doing the photo shoot



views into the sea.. can you see the lone tree on lonely rock



now you can easily see it



a house by the fort



one of the vistas in goa



Melvyn had pointed us to a good hotel by the riverside, but some how missed it and could not find in GPS also.
So we headed to Beanaulim beach. Wow what a beach, clean waters, white sand and less crowd. Our kind of beach.
By this time I was exhausted, so I sat in the shade while wifey did the exploration.

Next had lunch at one of the beach resort, I was trying to eat some bland food to make up for my loss earlier in the day. I guess I could not take it and puked it out.
Aaaargh, that’s it I couldn’t take it anymore. Drove straight back to the apartment and slept.
Towards the evening, there was a slight temperature. Now, I had bought some medicine, but after checking with my doctor decided to visit a hospital. Again, it was Melvyn who pointed us to Vintage hospital.
This day being Diwali, hospital is closed.
Fortunately, the emergency section was open and this is a emergency for me (in a far away town, with only my wife to look after me and me being the only driver. Lot of things running in my mind… what should I do if there is an infection, should I leave the car and take a flight home? Where will I keep the car?).
Finally drove to the hospital and met the doctor. By this time I had started sweating, a good sign indicating the fever had subsided.

At the hospital, a young and nice lady doc checks me and …

Doc: you have come prepared for admission right…?

Me & Wife (looking at each other): wwhat…?

Me: err… no

Doc: you are weak now, we need to admit you and administer Invitiro Fluid (IV)

Me: I am OK now, just prescribe me some antibiotics so that we can travel back home tomorrow.

Doc: OK, let me check with the surgeon.

After a while the doctor comes back and prescribes us the required medication. She says, I have to be on liquids and bland food (that’s it for my taste of seafood)

Finally, I take the medicine and head back to the apartment. I decided to take a call tomorrow morning based on my condition on returning or continuing the trip.

The hospital...my saviour of the trip



and the medical store

[misquitas]

Originally Posted by gypsyFreak

We were surprised by the number of Churches in old Goa. It’s like there is one Church in each road. The drive was nice as the roads were in good condition. I always keep wondering why is it that roads in coastal Karnataka are not in good shape even though they receive the same amount of rainfall and same density of vehicles. Is it the government apathy or just plain carelessness. That’s all together a different topic.

You may be surprised to note that there were far more churches in Old Goa, apart from the ones that are visible today. Many churches and religious structures were abandoned and eventually came down with the vagaries of nature. Many of them (present and extinct churches) as well as Old Goa itself have a fascinating story to tell and I have been reading quite a bit on these sites, hoping to share this info with friends and some relatives some time in the future.

For instance, there is a church opposite the Se Cathedral, called the Church of Our Lady of Divine Providence (popularly known as the Church of St. Cajetan). It so happened that Pope Urban VIII has sent some Italian missionaries (Italian friars of the Order of Theatines) in 1639 to preach Christianity in the kingdom of Golconda (near Hyderabad).

However, they were not permitted to spread Christianity in Golconda and hence, they settled in Goa in 1640. As such, they built a church in 1655 after the style of famous St Peter's Basilica in Rome.

Some details of this beautiful church can be read at:

Convent of St. Cajetan

Convent of Caetano Church of Divine

Originally Posted by gypsyFreak

This was the first time in my life I went inside a church, few observations here:
1. Footwear are allowed inside churches. We felt this is quite different when we compared against temples
2. You are allowed to take photos inside a church no matter it is big or small. This is not the case in temples
3. The church architecture is totally different, you have big halls with very high roofs and glass domes. This allows more air and light.

Quite true. Our Indian tradition believes that removal of footwear maintains the religious sanctity of a religious structure. This Indian tradition somehow got forgotten during the Portuguese colonial period in Goa. However, some aspects of Indian tradition are retained by Indian Catholics.

Photography is generally prohibited during services (Mass, etc) in the church, but is generally allowed at other times. Many of these churches at Old Goa are maintained by the ASI and they being World Heritage Sites, photography is permitted at these sites.

Church construction followed the architecture of the times and there is a strong Indo-European influence in these structures. In those days, greater attention was paid to light, sound and air. As such, these old churches have superb acoustics, good ventilation and have natural brightness.

[misquitas]

Originally Posted by gypsyFreak

Melvyn had pointed us to a good hotel by the riverside, but some how missed it and could not find in GPS also.

While you were at Cabo da Rama, the restaurant that I had suggested was Fisherman's Wharf, which is along the river at Cavelossim, a bit expensive but great ambiance and great food. But going by your internal state of affairs at the time, it's good that you missed the place. The great food would have made you ignore your ailing tummy and who knows what the consequences could have been.

Originally Posted by gypsyFreak

So we headed to Beanaulim beach. Wow what a beach, clean waters, white sand and less crowd. Our kind of beach.

We always advise outstation friends to stay away from popular beaches like Calangute, Baga, Colva, etc. as they are crowded, congested and polluted. We prefer beaches like Benaulim, Sernabatim, Utorda and Velsao for a more enjoyable and relaxing time at the beach.

[lancersfx]

@ gypsyFreak :: Nice trip report. I'll be doing the same stretch in the second week of December. So Cabo-De-rama is on the cards and I'm charting out the rest of the forts and beaches .. worth a visit.