[laluks]

Originally Posted by roamingrao

Thanks for posting here and a very happy new year to you and family. Looking forward to more travelogues from you this year too !

Thank you for your wishes. Wishing you and your family a Happy and Prosperous New Year.

Regarding the logs, I have to write some more logs from 2011 - Mahabaleshwar, Panchgani; Bijapur, Badami, Hampi; and finally one on Rajasthan By the time I finish all those I guess it would be year end

[VLOCT]

Originally Posted by roamingrao

Though the first palace and the mud fort here is traced to the year 1300, it was only during the reign of Maharaja Marthanda Varma in the 1740s that the present fort and palace were built. He is known as the maker of modern Travancore. He and his successors ruled Travancore from here until the seat of power was shifted to present Thiruvananthapuram.
Attachment 866141

Great travelogue, Roaming Rao

I wonder how many Indians are aware of the fact Marthanda Varma was the first asian king to ever defeat a european colonial power. He defeated the Dutch naval forces in a naval battle at Colacchel and the Dutch Admiral Delannoy served Marthanda Varma after that, till the day he died. He is buried somewhere near Nagercoil, I believe. Marthanda Varma was a true visionary and an incredible king for sure

[MX6]

Enjoying reading this. Even more because Kumar and I discussed a lot of your travels offline.
Thought of adding some of points here, that you may have already mentioned about the palace at Padmanabhapuram.

The wooden slits/ openings for the cool air also doubles up as Kilivaadhilugal! A place from where the royal women folk could see the outside world without people from outside able to see them. This concept was so romantic that there's been many stories and songs on the same.

When we went to one of those openings with the Ambari Mugappu with a window with a view of Padmanabhaswamy temple, we read the legend behind it. Seems that's the place where Raja Swati Tirunal stood/ sat while he composed many of his Kritis on Padmanabha. While the others climbed on the platform to have a better view of the temple from there, I refrained doing so. The respect for this Music Composer was so enormous and the feeling so instant that I just touched the platform with both my hands and stood beneath for a while before moving away. One of his compositions filled the mind that translates to
The lord of Devas is Indra
The lord of stars is Chandra
The lord of learning is Ganesha

The song ends with the words
The lord of the mountains is Himachal
The lord of all the earthlings is Mahesh
The lord of all the three worlds, is Sri Padmanabah!

Coming to the Padmanabha Swamy temple, there's one hidden jewel there that's being lost from memory. No. It's not the riches that they unearthed now. It's ancient. It was called Mesha Mani (now Medamani for the locals). Every hour, there used to be two goats that comes out and rams in to the face of a butcher that serves as a drum number of times to indicate the time. Everytime the goats hit the butcher's face, the butcher opens his mouth it seems. Much like the cuckoo clock. No idea when it got spoilt and repairs have been pending for long. Am not sure the condition of the clock now. But yes, these palaces are living testimonies of our glorious past, of art, architecture, science, music and culture.

[roamingrao]

.

Wow ! Pundits and stars of travelogues following this.. laluks, MX6, Fauji.... feels great !

Originally Posted by NPV

wonderful travelogue, superb narration and awesome pictures,

Thank you NPV for those kind words of appreciation. We only hope that this travelogue lives upto your expectations.

Yes ! that was coincidence. I would remember 6th January as the day of two sunrises !

Looking forward to your drive on the ECR and Rameshwaram / Dhanushkodi through your eyes ! edit - yes, its posted !

Originally Posted by VLOCT

Marthanda Varma was a true visionary and an incredible king for sure

Very true. Despite being a war monger, there was a human face to him - relieving people from the torture of feudal land lords, constructing market places, building irrigation systems ( as seen now around nagercoil.. ). It is interesting to know that he never spent a single rupee on himself, his luxuries and building cosy palaces. It is only because of his ability to dissimate his opponents completely that his successors ( Dharma Raja, Raja Swati Tirunal ) could concentrate on art, science and other cultural activities that we see today in the history of Travancore kingdom.

Experts say that the Thrippadithanam ( dedication of his kingdom to Lord Padmanabhaswamy ) was a master stroke he played against his opponents.

After all, who would attack the supreme lord ?

VLOCT, Thank you very much for sharing.

Originally Posted by MX6

While the others climbed on the platform to have a better view of the temple from there, I refrained doing so. The respect for this Music Composer was so enormous and the feeling so instant that I just touched the platform with both my hands and stood beneath for a while before moving away

MX6, knowing you from your writings here in this forum, this is not surprising ! Shows your deep respect, belief and devotion to our rich past. And must be like that ! Your daughter is indeed lucky to imbibe these qualities from you. After all, kids inculcate these and carry them forward - only way to pass on the cultural riches to the future.

BTW, the ambari mukhappu is now out of bound for the visitor - barricaded

Originally Posted by MX6

The lord of the mountains is Himachal
The lord of all the earthlings is Mahesh
The lord of all the three worlds, is Sri Padmanabah!

Thanks ! If these couple of lines in English could impart a sense of devotion in me, imagine the depth of devotion in Raja Swati Tirunal when he composed this ! Truly mind stirring.

Thanks for sharing all these, MX6. looking forward to more from you !



----




Day 3, May 20 2011
Varkala - Kollam - Alappuzha - Fort Kochi, 201 kms



Iam at the Varkala cliff before sunrise. Titli joins me too. We stand and gaze at the sea below and the sky - changing its colour from dark grey to golden.

We also spot the occasional fishing boat far up on the horizon - returning with their haul.











Titli in deep thoughts ? No, just counting the waves !







Last night, we had walked on the cliff edge, searching for dinner. All kinds of restaurants and shacks - Italian, Chinese, Mexican, Continental... most of the shacks were closed with the monsoon just round the corner - off season for foreign tourists. Deeper inside, we find a few resorts, ayurvedic spas, massage centres, Yoga classes. Come November, this place is going to be crowded.







The 30 year old Kerala Govt. Nature Cure Hospital, just off the helipad.







Hotel Sanctum Spring. Today, we were the only guests !









Gudiya and her maa also join us now. With sunrise, the beach has turned into a playground - football, cricket, frisbees...







Gudiya and Titli climb down the cliff and walk on the waterline. From down below, they cannot see us waving !



We speak to a retired lady doctor on her morning walk. After 27 years of service in Mumbai, she chose this place to settle down and look after her
grandchildren. She explains how Varkala 'shows up' during peak season - Festive !!






Yoga on the beach. On the same beach, further north, bikini clad bathers !!

Aah, Kerala !








We walk back to our room to check out and the newspaper handles out a shocker - Kerala is bandh today !!

There was a massive fuel price increase a couple of days back and Kerala decides to protest. The hotel manager says everything would be closed and advices us to stay on.

Now, its Oh Kerala !

We are least perturbed. Reason ? Hvkumarvani !!

Yes, listening to his 'broadcasts' has instilled in us the confidence to tackle any situation. I remember his words - Even on a bandh day, if you have enough fuel, one can easily sail through Kerala, infact, enjoy the empty roads !!

What followed was a literal 'sail through' to Fort Kochi. Now, here is a man with whom I have hardly spoken a couple of times and met just once, who
can, sitting in Mumbai and without speaking a word, transform an entire day to a productive one !

If this is not his power, what else is ?

Sir, we are on the same wavelength and frequency as you - tuned into hvkumarvani !! with rapt attention.






One for the photo, before we leave Varkala









Sri Janardhana swamy temple, Varkala




A massive temple, on three levels ( Sri Sastha temple and the theertam are on lower levels ). We have done our homework on how this town got its name, from Lord Brahma's Valkalam ( cloth made of tree bark, maravuri ). One of the holiest shrines of Lord Vishnu in Kerala.

We have darshan of the lord, decked and made to look like a dancing Krishna, fully smeared with chandana ( sandal paste )

The outer precincts of the temple are covered in large grained river sand. We had seen it in Padmanabhaswamy temple too, and later in Guruvayur.

Why ?

In summer, its difficult to step on it - it retains heat ! but cooler compared to granite slabs. Or, is it to prevent slush during monsoon ?






Circumambulating a huge banyan tree in front of the temple.







Offerings to a wish tree. Sorry, not to hurt anybody's sentiments - earlier, these dolls were made of wood, metal... and now !







Thanks to the bandh, we regretfully give up plans to visit Sri Narayana Guru's Memorial at Sri Sivagiri mutt and instead drive towards Kappil Lake and beach - Edava road








Fantastic views of the sea and lake - coconut tree lined roads for miles on end !








Crossing the railway tracks at Paravur, we dart towards NH47 at 3000rpm. On Kerala roads ? Oh yes, we did it !








Deserted Kollam Jetty. An elderly guide near the jetty manning a private tourist office is clearly embarrassed.... saar, why today ?







Instead, we advices us to go to Alappuzha. We drive on, through the deserted city roads, with one eye looking for a decent family restaurant. Come on, we have'nt had breakfast !








Crossing the expansive Ashtamudi lake








Outskirts of Kollam, Parimanam, this is the only restaurant open on the highway.




We drive in.

Nobody around.

With the engine still on, i get down, go in and ask the owner - Saappad ?

I do not care if I'm speaking in Tamil or Malayalam - all we want is saappad !

He welcomes us in and requests us to be seated for 15 minutes. Noises in the kitchen means we're getting something !

Now, the second apprehension starts - I call the owner again and request - saar, Pure Vegetarian !

He has a big smile on his face as he walks back to the kitchen.

We too, share a smile of relief !





As we wait, the waves relentlessly bangs itself on the seawall








Grab it !!!



Placing it one the table, he explains each one of them - white boiled rice ( we expected the brownish variety - Kuchalakki ), Upperi, Rasam, kaalans, pulisherri, the customary aviyal, payasam, Curds, moru and looking straight into my eyes - sir, all pure vegetarian !

All liberally garnished with grated coconut !!






Adoor - Adoor Gopalakrishnan Fame ?







Tottapally bridge








Almost there ! All deserted. What does Alappuzha have in store for us ?








We ask a policeman for direction to 'houseboats'. Saar, neere poku, moonad bridge right.

Now, i know a bit of malayalam !








As prompted, we turn right after the third bridge.

A waterway ! Aah, we see boats, lots of them.

The Govt. tourism counter is closed.

Boatmen swarm us. We do not want a regular kettuvallam ( double decked houseboat ). They are expensive. We want to go deep into the backwaters - residential colonies, small canals, things like that.

A shikara suits us.

The owner has had no business since morning. I do not negotiate much - its their lifeline. Settles for Rs.600 for a 4 hour ride till sunset and promises to show what we want.

I'm surprised on how i was able to communicate with the owner of the boat !!


Crossing the punnamada lake, we set out - to explore the back waters of Alappuzha !!






.

[roamingrao]

We are in Venice of the East - Alappuzha

India's longest lake, Vembanad Lake and its far reaching tentacles in the form of natural and man made canals and waterways form the back bone of Kerala's backwater network. Fed by hundreds of rivers, the lagoon network which includes other large lakes spreads across almost one third of Kerala's coastline.

We take a shikara to explore the backwaters in the Kuttanadu region of Alappuzha district. The rice bowl of Kerala.





Just past Punnamada lake, a Chundan Vallam ( snake boat ) is being readied for Vallam Kali ( boat game ) or the Nehru Trophy Boat Race in August. Built strong enough to carry atleast 100 oarsmen.







This broad waterway links us to National Waterway 3. From here, in either directions, Kottayam 28 km and Kollam 88 kms away.










A waterfront restaurant








Tourism thrives here on these - Kettuvallam. Thatched roof tied to a boat / barge







On National Waterway 3. From Kottapuram ( north of Kochi ) to Kollam. Complete - with reflective bouys, signages, jettys and terminal facilities. Sorry, no medians !!









We turn off from NW3 and enter Kuttanadu region. Ripples from these behemoths rock our shikara. I'd love to be a driver of these ! atleast for a day !









The waterways are crowded with these vallams. Looks like - on a bandh day, with no other choice, tourists have flocked here.









Titli asks me - where do kids here go out to play ?








A Kuttanadu village - could'nt have been more serene












Please wait. The ferry shuttle is two stops behind us








To a nearby shop. For a pencil ? No, for a chocolate !







A hospital with an ambulance !!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmUKnFZ-lwU

The waterways were and are meant for these huge barges - transporting rice bags to the market / town.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RMVGkEbayI

What did the royals do ? A thatched roof to one of this barges, a cook and a sunset cruise with a dutch guest ! need any more ideas ?

Start of tourism.




Cruising along the rich paddy fields of Kuttanad. Backwater paddy - Kayal cultivation

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXUETZyLnx0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2X9yna3Uq4

As the sun starts to dip, we turn back









Parked for the night. And the cook starts to work !








The large windows indicate the number of bedrooms, This one has two.








The last stretch before we cross the mighty Vembanad lake.








Kettuvallam race !!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP6fRDRgoVw

Sunset on the Vembanad

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vN2tvPltB3s

The Lake Palace Resort, Punnamada Lake.









The last four hours has been an unforgetable pleasant experience for us. Truly a different world altogether ! Incredible !

Back at the jetty, we thank the boatmen and apologise to Chhota Bheem - he's been alone for 4 hours !



KTDC Motel Araam at Kalapura, Alappuzha, provides us the necessary dose of coffee to drive 66 kms to Fort Kochi.

At Aroor, we call up a couple of hotels from the prepared list.


Hotel Casa Linda, Fort Kochi, welcomes us. Sir, please come, call me once you are near Fort Kochi bus terminus.

Thanks to the bandh, we are in the hotel in half hour.


www.cochinballard.com, 0484 2216888. non ac Rs.1250. ac 1650, extremely clean, spacious and well maintained rooms. Parking within the compound though sufficient only for a couple of cars. Very friendly staff



Our plan was to spend the entire next day here. But as hvkumar rightly said "whats there in kochi" ?


We pack up at 2 pm and go the Maniratnam way !!


.

[roamingrao]

Day 4, May 21, 2011
Fort Kochi - Athirapalli falls - Thrissur, 179 kms



We start early and board an autorickshaw for a whirlwind tour of Fort Kochi which takes us to the Chinese fishings nets, Santa Cruz Basilica, The Maritime Museum, Dutch Cemetry, Fort Kochi sea front, Saint Francis Church, Jain Mandir at Mattancherry, Mattancherry Palace and the Jewish Synagogue.




The Chinese Fishing nets. Introduced here in the 14th century







Santa Cruz Basilica. The first church to be built by the Portuguese in Asia in 1502. Now, the centre of Latin Catholic churches in Kerala.







High altar inside the church







The maritime museum dedicated to Indian Navy Ship Dronacharya







Fort Kochi sea front adjoining the beach.







The mouth of Vembanad Lake







Saint Francis Church. Again, constructed by the Portuguese in 1503. The mortal remains of Vasco da Gama was buried here for 14 years before it was taken back to Lisbon, Portugal.







Hand operated Fans for the opulent







Incidentally, it was the previous day ( May 20th ) in 1498 that Vasco da Gama had landed in Kerala ( Kappad, near Kozhikode ).







The place where he was buried







Organic Spice shop







The rickshaw then takes us 2 kms away to Mattancherry.

Jain mandir of the Gujarathi community who have been here for almost 300 years.







Mattancherry Kottaram or Dutch Palace. Gifted by the Portuguese to Maharaja Veera Kerala Varma in exchange for allowing to construct a fort.



The Jewish synagogue adjoining the palace is closed. Its a Saturday





Back to Vasco da Gama Square, The ferry to Vypeen island







A 150 year old prison with 8 cells.







Not finding a restaurant suited to us, we decide to splurge. We walk out of the posh Brunton Boatyard - again not the kind of food we want. The restaurant at The Killians Boutique Hotel made us feel at home - Kerala Parotha and what else ? Veg Kadai !







Folk and arts centre. Live performances of Kathakali, Mohiniyattam and Kalaripayattu ( dance and martial art forms )




The next show is scheduled at 6pm. We discuss if we could stay on and watch the performances, but have to wait 5 hours for that, and nothing much else to see here.



We walk back to our hotel hoping to get some ideas from the travel desk.


He suggests Athirapalli Falls, 90 kms from here.

Traffic in the city could delay you. he states

The gate to the falls closes at 5pm, he warns

Despite all these, a must visit. he affirms



Checking out in a hurry, we thank him again on the way out and soon are on the bridge - crossing over to Ernakulam. Good bye, Vembanad lake !







Later this month, Mahi also could follow amma and become Chennai sooper king ! our guess was right !







Several signals and traffic jams later, Edapally junction. Sorry NH 17, we'll see you later.







Slow movement continues on NH47 too. We are biting our nails !







Traffic eases only after this bridge at Aluva. Periyar river.
Oh, ok, so all the cabs were going to the airport ?







After Aluva, Chalakudy comes up fast, in 20 mins.

Its 4pm, we still have one hour to reach the falls. can we do it ?


We ask a truck driver for directions to Athirapalli falls who points to a road through a cement arch. Sholayar, it mentions.



Chhota Bheem is told to sprint. He obeys. 28 km to go in 45 minutes. Curvy roads through small villages and bus traffic makes it tough to exceed 60kmph. Respite comes after the green conopy starts, but then the curves too start !!


19 kms in 30 minutes. we're in for a nail biting finish.

Windows are rolled down, its cooler than Bangalore winter. In Kerala, in May ? Yes, unimaginable.


If not for this last minute rush, we would've crawled at 20 kmph in such a place. Absolutely refreshing place.


Half the bus traffic comes down after Silver Storm water park. 11 kms in 15 mins. we're almost there !




4.55pm, we drive along a long queue of cars and vans parked alongside the narrow road. I stop in front of the gate, ask gudiya to get down and buy the entrance tickets while i try and find parking space. All of Kerala have come here !


Lucky to get the tickets, we walk up the hill to view the falls and climb down to the edge of the flow - keep wiping my spectacles to clear the mist.


Athirapalli falls in all its grace and grandeur.

Gudiya, where's the camera ?

Appa, its in the car !!

I stop smiling

My wife pulls me up, murmuring, which seemed like - where's the need for snaps, tbhpians have already seen this.


We hardly have started enjoying the mist and spray, we hear a whistle.
A forest guard calling us up, back. When we pretend we cannot hear him, a long, red faced discourse in Malayalam follows. We do not understand a word except that he'e angry and serious.


Ok baba. We oblige, rather surrender. We start climbing back. A gentleman, who saw all this, and knew we did not understand, comes over to us and explains what the guard tried to put in our head - wild animals in the area ! So, 6pm is the time for all the wild animals in the area to get up and start roaming !





On our way back, from the road.











Back at the gate







We're loving it here.... and bookmark it too ! Not from Chalakudy side, but Valparai.









Daylight fades as we approach Chalakudy, turn right and drive 35 kms to Thrissur. Good broad roads.

8pm, parking is easy to find - close to the huge roundabout. As desired, a quick darshan of Lord Vadakumnathan. We appreciate the temple, the
surrounding courtyards and a garden.


Dinner ordered to room, we crash to bed at Hotel Luciya Palace, Marar road, 0487 2424731, www.hotelluciyapalace.com, 2+1 bed - Rs.1600.
Expensive, but we could not have afforded to search in an unlisted city after all the hectic running.


Unlisted ? Yes. On paper, after a full day at Kochi we were to drive directly to Guruvayur. So the Falls and Lord Vadakumnathan darshan are bonus !


Tomorrow, sunset on a drive - in beach ! Could we make it ? Only Guruvayurappan could answer !!!


'

[MX6]

Regarding the 300 years of Gujarati settlement and the Jain Mandir, Some of the Malabar region port cities were known for flourishing trade since 900 years. So a lot of Tamils also came across to this side of the ghats to export many a things through ports of Calicut, for instance.
It was the flourishing maritime trade centuries back that brought the people of Gujarat down south. One shouldn't miss the point that Srikrishna idol from Dwarka was indeed brought to Udupi in one such ship centuries back that Madhwa is supposed to have installed in Udupi.

I'd done some research regarding the name of Kallikottai and had posted this earlier (see below link)

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ml#post2086395

This goes to show that we had flourishing trade and people willing to move to other places in search of a living and people accepting the one's who migrated since ages.

So I won't be surprised when HVK asked the question in Kumar Village in Ladakh region. Whether all Kumars are from there. We have it in our blood!

[laluks]

Fort Kochi is an amazing place to be. Its splendour and charm is only seen by its own fans. An evening spent near the fishing nets, walk along those old lanes, it in itself is a bliss. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

[recker_us]

Very nice.. Thank you Sir. I am glued to this thread and hungrily and greedily waiting for the next update.

[roamingrao]

Originally Posted by laluks

Fort Kochi is an amazing place to be. Its splendour and charm is only seen by its own fans. An evening spent near the fishing nets, walk along those old lanes, it in itself is a bliss. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Very true, Laluks. Before taking a tour of Fort Kochi, we had taken a morning walk along the lanes - Church street, The old lighhouse Bristow hotel, David hall art gallery and of course the various home stays dotting the area. The essence of the area is truly charming. Colonial legacy at its best !!

Originally Posted by recker_us

Very nice.. Thank you Sir. I am glued to this thread and hungrily and greedily waiting for the next update.

Thank you recker_us. Trying my best to speed up updates. Bon appetite !!


---------


Day 4, May 21, 2011
Thrissur - Guruvayur - Kozhikode - Kannur, 226 kms



Guruvayurappanae appan

This Tamil composition of Smt. Ambujam Krishna reverberates in my mind as i wake up and get ready for a divya darshan of the Lord. I get into panche shalya mode ( Dhoti set ) at Thrissur itself ( helped in this weather also ! )


The road to Guruvayur on a early sunday morning is jam packed - to say the least.






Parking is tough to find along the East Nada, We navigate towards the south and manage to find a slot inside a marriage hall compound.

7am, the queue for darshan is atleast a kilometre long ! - along the east nada and turning north, almost ending near the theertham on the north of the temple. But, its moving fast.



Step by step onwards, in the tender sun, its now time to humm Om Namo Narayana by none less than Dr. M S Subbalakshmi.

2 hours into the queue, yet to enter the long scaffolding, Purandaradasaru takes over, Neen yaako ninna hang yaako !! followed by Vijayadasaru's
Yendigavudo ninna darushana !

Karuniso ranga karuniso in Pt. Bhimsen Joshi style is not far behind ! That's when we get to drink some water !!

4 hours now, we watch live dance performances on the stage inside the scaffolding. Instant marriages also take place on a special platform. Do we get married again ? Advantages ? Our kids get to see us wed and we also do get instant darshan ! I also poke my wife - second honeymoon !!!



My shalya ( upper dhoti ) comes to the rescue of Gudiya when security do not allow her to enter the temple. Half pants. I had warned her. We thank the security for being accommodative enough to allow her to wear the dhoti on top of her pants.

Ee pariya sobagava inn yaava devaralu kaane is all i can humm as we have darshan of Lord Sri Guruvarurappan. He is in a dancing pose. Smeared with sandal paste and decked with a Tulasi garland. Lighted with tens of oil lamps. Magical. Our day is done. Nothing else matters, not even the 6 hour wait !


Celestial architects Vishwakarma are said to have built this temple after Guru ( Bruhaspati ) and Vayu installed the idol of the lord. Hence,
Guruvayurappa.



Content to the brim, we drive out of the town. But soon to be disoriented.




I had expected to join NH17 at Chavakkad and continue north, but a board 5km before the beach town diverted us towards Kozhikode. Confused, i get down and ask if this is the only road to Kozhikode. They say yes. What happened to NH17 ? Is it not patronised ? Sir ?

Past Kunnamkulam and further Perumpilavu. Still not oriented despite gudiya reading out the map







We drive through Eddapal and cross Bharathappuzha river at Kuttippuram. I explain how this river flows through the Palakkad gap.
Now, NH 17 rejoins !!!






Opps ! what's that ? Gudiya, what's that place 303 kms from here ? I realize before she calculates !
Locally, is it called so ?







The vision of one man. Shri P S Varier. Aptly titled Vaidyaratnam !







Relaxed drive towards Kozhikode. Now smooth..







Now, not so smooth...







Beypore, after the sprawling Calicut university.







The Feroke bridge. Ancient boatmakers. Timber merchants for ages. I do business with feroke.
Simple people here. But overly simple to not take modernisation in their stride !







Kozhikode. We overshoot the byepass junction, only to realise and come back - head to the beach road.







Kool Kat ice cream parlour. On the beach road. Gulping ice creams is not the word - on what we did !







We are familiar with this city. May 2009, we did this circuit : Bangalore - Nanjangud - Kalpetta and around - Vythiri - Lakkidi ghat - Kozhikode - Mahe - Kannur - Nileswaram back waters - Bekal - Kasargod and temples around - Mangalore - Bangalore. 6 days.

Among other highlights of that trip, was our visit to PT Usha's house at Payyoli. She was not there, but we were ushered in and shown her huge collection of medal and trophies. Her husband was very courteous. We prize that visit !





Now, back to where we are, Kozhikode.

Originally Posted by MX6

I'd done some research regarding the name of Kallikottai and had posted this earlier

MX6, please allow me to open the link and post it here too !

Originally Posted by MX6

Was reading extensively on calico/ calicut/ kallikottai/ kozhikode.

Now Calicut was what the Europeans called Kozhikode in 11th century AD.
Kallikottai is what the Tamils called the place as there's a legend of a fort surrounding a temple. Now where is that fort or it's ramparts is something that needs further research.
Calico is the name of the fabric that East India company imported from Calicut in 1631 - 1633. So what was the fabric called before that? British thought it was linen first when it was actually cotton.
So etymologically and chronologically speaking, it looks like the Brits coined the term calico fabrics after the fact that they were from calicut and not the other way round. Calicut came from Kozhikode 500 years before the brits came to trade for the fabric.
I'm trying to find manuscripts in Tamil/ Malayalam which speaks about the fabric and it's name before east-india company came in to the picture.
Marcopolo landed in Calicut in 1293 - 1294 and has referred to it as the kingdom of Melibar (malabar). He refers to the kingdom being rich in Pepper, cinnamon and turbit nuts (pigeon feed). Further he says that they also manufacture delicate and beautiful buckrams. Buckram was not stiff like present day calico. So earlier they were making finer cotton and not the stiffer ones. So the Stiffer one's has come later. Now what was the earlier Indian (mallu/ tamil/ malabari/ what ever) name for this cloth?
Incidentally Arabs used to call this port city as Kallikooth in earlier times.

That's great info ! and some food for thought

I could gather some information on how the name Kozhikode or Kalli kottai came. It is said to be Koyil kotta ( palace in a fort ) of Eradi rulers ( eralnadu ) when they built a fort to safeguard their interests after their victory against porlathiri rulers at Nediyirippu ( present day feroke ). These zamorins ( samoothiris / descendents of chera dynasty ) later consolidated and shifted to Calicut to have an outlet to the sea. This is said to be in 1024.

Yes, you are right. the name of the cloth came from the place it was procured from and not vice versa.

Monsoon winds helped Vasco da Gama land in Kappakadavu in May 1498 with just the intention of breaking the monopoly of arab traders in spice market of Europe. Thinking that the zamorins have colluded with the arabs, the portuguese destroyed Calicut several times with the help of Kannur and Kochi kings. Hyder ali invaded with help of Raja of Palakkad to wrest control of the trade. Tipu Sultan consolidated his position till his death and thats when the British landed in. All this for ? Spice.

MX6, thanks for sharing.




6pm, No way we could go to Muzhappilangad beach to view sunset. Instead, we drive to Kappad beach and spend some time.









Chhota Bheem drank cheaper diesel in Mahe

93 kms later, we crash to bed at KTDC Tamarind Hotel, near Parassinikadavu, 20 kms north of Kannur. 0497 2780220, extra bed free, non a/c Rs. 1000. clean, spacious, Govt. property !!



Tomorrow, after Lord Muthappan darshan, we try to sneak past hundreds of relatives scattered from Kanhangad to Kundapura and reach Palolem beach before nightfall.

But, as luck would have it, we get caught in Saligrama.

Lovingly served home food was our punishment !



.

[recker_us]

I hope you got a chance to drive on the Muzhappilangad beach next morning. It was pure fun when I was there 3 years back. Infact, I remember driving so close to to sea that waves kept coming and hitting my lil Alto.

Infact just before heading back to bangalore next morning, I made a final trip to the beach just to drive there one last time.

Link to some info on this amazing beach: http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/India...og-101302.html

[Manuuj]

A wonderful travelogue in the making! You have done what many including me only dream about. Glad to note that your "chota bheem" performed faultlessly through out the 14,000 kms journey.

Looking forward to the rest of the travelogue and especially Phase-2 of this epic journey.

HVK is truly a gentleman traveler and i hope to be part of his convoy someday soon. Please keep the posts coming fast.

[MX6]

Reading your log gives me a lot of pleasure Roamingrao. And I feel like adding on to those snippets as and when something comes to my mind, which I've done as well. Guess why?
It is our penchance for long drives, similar interests including driving long, cross country, parenting, music and arts and finer details behind etc.
Really looking forward to meeting you in person. Thanks to one of your post, I'm now reminiscing the song - Ee pariya sobagAva dEvarali kANe
gOpijanapriya gOpalagallade, rendered by Dr. M Balamurali Krishna!

[ku69rd]

Rao Sir,
This is an amazing TL, pray do keep up speeds to match your Chota Bheem
As usual after your GQ drive, this is another one which i envy you for. 2 Epics TL which i hope will try to achieve one of these days.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Bangalore-Bombay-Ghodbunder-Dakor-Ahmedabad-Somnath-Sasan Gir-Dwaraka-Ambaji-Mt Abu-Udaipur-Nathdwara-Pushkar-Ujjain-Omkareshwar-Aundha-Nagnath-Nanded-Basara-Hyderabad-Ananthapur-Bangalore

Kumar Sir,
Thought Sri Sailam also has a jyotirlinga. Not sure if it has not been mentioned on intent or?

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by ku69rd

Kumar Sir,
Thought Sri Sailam also has a jyotirlinga. Not sure if it has not been mentioned on intent or?

Yes, Srisailam is also a Jyotir linga. Did not mention it because the idea was to cover the ones in GJ, MH & MP