[samarjitdhar]

Dada you seem to have ignited a spark somewhere

The residents of Gurez valley, located near the Line of Control (LoC) in north Kashmir, have made a strong plea for opening up the area to eco-tourism activities and construction of a tunnel to ensure connectivity with the rest of the country during winter months.

The demand was made by a delegation led by local MLA Nazir Ahmad Gurezi yesterday, during a meeting with the Committee on Environment of Jammu and Kashmir Legislative Assembly at the Tourist Reception Centre in Gurez, an official spokesman said here today.

"We demand promotion of Gurez as an eco-tourism destination due to its huge scope for adventure tourism," the residents said.

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/h...w/15448210.cms

Came across this article on TOI and was immediately reminded of your exploits. You should be designated the brand ambassador .

[adc]

Originally Posted by pushkark

ADC, great going. Do you have the GPS tracks of your journey?

No, that's why using Wikimapia and Mapmyindia print screens. GPS is too annoying for me - it diverts attention, checking this, checking that, turn here turn there - data logger is what I will carry next time or better the ebay link that samarjitdhar posted in the previous page.

Originally Posted by codelust

ADC, I'm guilty of lurking on this thread (and other logs of yours).

And so am I, do follow quite a few travel stories over here and on the net in between work - so many inspirational travelogues that does give the spark of a journey in the future.

It was just a post to elicit some messages, as that page was becoming too image heavy!

Originally Posted by aryasanyal

One question: You encountered rain in October as well. What is a good time to visit Lolab, when one can get unhindered views and clear blue skies?

Any mountain hill region, has two best seasons:

One starts around mid Sept to around Nov. when the chill factor is not that much plus the clear skies are there after the monsoons and brilliant fall colours come out as trees shed leaves.

Another one is around Mid March to April - when you get some remaining snow of the winter but not that much that all is blanket white. Clear skies predominate this months too.

Thus in these two periods Lolab would be in its very best.

Originally Posted by samarjitdhar

The photos on this page beats Switzerland any day by many a proverbial mile. I mean the beauty of these places can leave anyone stunned to silence. Seriously now I understand why they said if there was heaven on earth it is here ....

Originally Posted by samarjitdhar

Dada you seem to have ignited a spark somewhere



http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/h...w/15448210.cms

Came across this article on TOI and was immediately reminded of your exploits. You should be designated the brand ambassador .

When we travelled in 2011 the infrastructure was just being developed.

As I hear now, 2012, things are better organized and all permissions are centralized now with SP tourism Srinagar. No need to run and stand with a permission paper in DC or SP office of the districts.


The only precaution is there skirmishes do take place over in these regions, not that often, but when it does it is fierce as all these areas are very near to LOC and the forest cover and mountains give that ideal hideouts for infiltrators.

Surely these places will be visited much more as they are more known.

--Tell me, can anything be more stunning --

Gurez




Lolab




Bangus



We may have been the rare travellers who have seen these areas first but have not visited till now Gulmarg or Pahalgam and other known destinations of Kashmir.

[kesri]

Wow! saw some amazing pictures here!

Have to come back and read the narratives
.

[mavrikm5]

Just the most breathtaking travelogue i have come across yet... have been following it for sometime. Hats off to ADC and his family for going on these journeys braving all odds. No advance planning, going into uncharted areas, no idea about food and stay and then the biggest fear of security..man. Most would think twice before going.
Amazing pics, can't get enough of the beautiful places you have visited. Longing to go there before the crowds descend. Can't believe even in this day & time there are places not heard of or visited.
Carry on with the amazing dude.

5*

[adc]

Reshwari to Bangus trek

Bangus is one of the relatively unexplored grasslands and unknown tourists paradise situated in the North Western periphery of Tehsil Handwara of District Kupwara, 72 Kms away from Srinagar, summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir (India).

The said grass land is at an altitude of about 10,000 ft above sea level. Occupying an estimated area of 300 Sq Kms, Bangus is surrounded by Shamsbery ranges and Leepa valley. Word “Bangus” is derived from Joining two words “ Ban “ derived from Sanskrit word “ Van” meaning “ forest” and “ Gus” meaning “ Grass” ,so it is a meadow with lush growth of wild grass. The Bangus valley has variety of flora, considered ideal for cattle grazing. The area is supposed to have been discovered by an unknown nomad, while ghttp://www.team-bhp.com/forum/newreply.php?do=postreply&t=112842razing his cattle. This is by far the most productive land in this area as it provides a largest niche for producer-consumer relationship. In the summer season numerous cattle and sheep are seen grazing in these meadows which are sent from the adjoining areas by the locals.

Bangus valley is surrounded by Chowkibal Mountains on the northern side, Qazinag and Shamsbery Mountains on the western side. Besides other hills also seem to provide protection to the grassland namely; Meeldar, Nastichavan and Yaddil etc. Bangus comprises a mountain biome which includes grassland biome with flora at Lower altitudes and coniferous forests at a higher altitude. Source

Bangus map and location found on net. For Bada Bangus, one has to go via Reshwari. From Nelvan the trekking route starts and a trek of 4 hours is needed to reach Bangus meadows.



Oct 25th, 2011, is a clear weather day as we start our journey and trek towards Bangus from Reshwari tourist hut.








Heading towards Nelvan, where we leave our Safari VTT and from where our trek will start towards Bangus.




Mansoor, the policeman, will be with us also today in this trek - today he is carrying a Smith and Wesson and not the AK-xx!.




Just beyond Nelvan we leave our VTT and wait for the mules to arrive for the trek. Asmita and Bambi will be on the mules and Mansoor and I will trek





A Naga battalion is on guard over here and as we wait, a chit and chat I pick up with one of the soldiers




contd..

[adc]

Nelvan - Bangus meadows trek


And soon the mules arrive, our journey towards Bangus finally starts on this fine morning of October 25, 2011



Insisted on his own horse - it is a proud day for him



Asmita and Bambi on the mules and Mansoor and I trek, the horseman is also seen in this pic





We move on...









among verdant and untouched springs and forests, it is a magical journey..











contd..

[adc]

Nelvan - Bangus meadows trek


One thing to note is that one does not require mules as such for this trek. Asmita and Bambi has done the VOF trek and it is much steeper than this. The mules were taken to speed up the journey as we were already late to start, [11 am start around], have to do that 3-4 hour trek to Bangus, return before night fall, check out of the Reshwari rest house, and then drive back to Srinagar by 8 pm. It was a big day of travel, trek and drive, so the mules were taken for wife and son to reach Bangus at a faster pace.

And so the travel continued, sometimes between deep forests and sometimes in untouched meadows and gurgling stream water





Bamba's mule named Ravi, which was promptly renamed by him as Mamba, frequently stopped in between to much on the new grass that has come up due to rains few days back. He started on his own words -> tak-tuk-tik-tok to goad the horse forward! - can be heard on that video









With rains in the past few days, it means snow in the higher reaches, and soon we reach the snow line - it quite steep now as we get quite close to the Bangus meadows.



I form the rear of this trek group and as I just go over the ledge and get the first views of the Bangus meadows, that exclaim as heard on the video - it is so stunning!

http://youtu.be/XEYI9HtKF00

contd...

[adc]

Bangus meadows - Reshwari - Handwara - Sopore - Srinagar



Again as we ask ourselves, can anything be more stunning as we first get the sight of Bada Bangus - a soft snow layer covered the green meadows



The line that is seen is the guiding line, some 2 km into the other end, where the LOC is located, an Army camp is located out there.




Naga army soldiers take a momentary pause, catching up with the warmth of sunlight as they will head off to the snow buried camp.



It was magical, we spend quite some time over there.





As Bamba frolicked on the soft snow, he even collected some but ultimately abandoned it when told that all that will be water as he goes back to the base camp.





A last view of the magnificent Bangus meadows, it is time to return back to Nelvan where Safari VTT is waiting for us












Back to Nelvan by late evening...




As we signed back, the officer at Nelvan Army camp cannot but congratulate us, particularly son about the feat -- no tourists has done what you have done at this age, going up to Bangus seeing it in its full splendor - and for me he had this words - aap to dekh ke hi chora! And we said - we will be back again, exploring more and beyond in 2013!





We reach Reshwari, pickup our baggage and on our return, have a brief yet warm stop at Mansoor's house - some great talk about the day's events and a good bye to this wonderful family


It was already dark by the time go out of Handwara to connect to the highway of Srinagar via Sopore and Baramullah. Night drive and fast it was as had to reach by 8/9 pm before the night food stalls close and also had to check into the hotel at Badami Bagh.

Reached safely, a refreshing hot bath and fast dinner - we retire early -- a stupendous day it has been. This big journey finally is coming to a close now!

We have just another place to cover now - Doodthpathri - only some 50 km from Srinagar, yet tourists hardly know about it as of 2011 - a brilliant meadow where infrastructure is just being developed.




contd...

[adc]

Srinagar - Doodthpathri - Srinagar

Doodh-e-pathri is yet another bowl shaped valley about 42 kms form Srinagar. It is a recent discovery in the valley covered with the green carpeted meadows.

A flowing river resounds with soft wind passing through the pine trees of the enclosures of the valley. It is also called as a "VALLEY OF MILK" because it produces rich milk in a large quantity.

It is said that the cattle grazing in the meadows of Doode e Pather, produces rich milk in large quantity , this reason it is called the "valley of milk" Doodh e Pather.

The shepherds from different areas travel to this place along with their cattle's and stay there for days together. This area also connected to Gurez valley on its north.


Although not so many people visit here because it is not known to all but who luckily visit to this place knows how beautiful and marvelous place it is. Government is working to make easy access to doodh pathri by linking concrete roads to this place. Upgradation of doodh pathri and tourist facilities plans are on fast track. Very soon doodh pathri will be famous like other places too, and it will also known to be most famous tourist place in kashmir.

A day of rest and we are joined by my friend, Surja, and we head off towards Doodpathri of Budgam district via Khan Saheb road





A cropped picture of signboard, Dodthpathri can also be entered through Arizal. We went via Khan Saheb asking frequently for directions here and there as we cross small villages and towns




Entering Doodpathri through the gates







Infrastructure development is in full swing over here



Roads are being made as of October 2011, soon this will be one big tourist centre, being only 42 km from Srinagar



And the meadows come into view. Do yourself a favour next time you are in Srinagar, stay over here at least for a few days rather than in the city















And we made our way along the track till the last point we can





We stop our Safari VTT here, the track is dug up as culverts are being laid, we walk from here to go the end of the Doodpathri region



contd...

[adc]

Srinagar - Doodthpathri - Srinagar contd..

A brief idea of the location of Doodpathri with relation to Srinagar and Gulmarg from Wikimapia. Click to magnify.



Leaving our Safari VTT, we walked towards till we can of the Doodpathri region












Luxurious tourist cottages and huts are being developed within the meadow region as seen



We reach the end of this brilliant meadow, as I take this image of the mountains of Pir Panjal as seen from the end of the Doodpathri region.



We are only people out here roaming around and as evening approaches, it is time go back to Srinagar, but not before one last view of this fantastic destination.





And of course we will and definitely will stay over here for a couple of days - as of 2012 infrastructure development is complete and one can book via the JK tourism offices - again I repeat, do stay over here for a day rather than planting oneself at Srinagar, approx 45 km and a 2-hour journey max.




So back at Srinagar by late evening and this humongous of trip and exploratory expedition has truly come to an end. As in previous travels, we celebrate by a huge meal after days of travel to here and there, and for this huge yet brilliantly successful travel - more so as we head off towards Mughal Darbar for a big , big dinner - of Wazwan and Kashmiri cuisine delicacies.



contd...

[Biraj]

I have been following your thread for a long time and every time I check it, I am more astonished than the previous time. It's a shame that most of us don't dare to visit places that you just did due to fear of militancy and other factors. One of the (if not the) most beautiful part of India is not getting experienced by many. On the other hand, probably that's why it's still so beautiful.

Keep posting these lovely and inspiring travelogues to inspire lesser mortals like us, to select destinations beyond the usual Dalhousie, Mcleodganj and Shimla.

A big thank you for the inspiration!!!

[adc]

A successful journey always ends by a fantastic lunch or dinner, after days of travel in the remote lands and abrupt meal times. And in Kashmir it has to be the cuisine of Wazwan - and what better place than at Mughal Durbar of Srinagar.

Wazwan, it is a unique concept and means "WAZ"-the chef person with the rare culinary skills passed on through generations, an artist who is obsessively and passionately involved with his art and who is one of the priveledged few flag bearers of this great Kashmiri tradition,"WAN" is the shop with the abundant supplies of meats and delicacies.


Two seekh kababs and contains four pieces of methi korma (chicken or mutton flavored with a spice mixture containing dried fenugreek (methi) leaves), two tabak maaz (twice-cooked lamb ribs, initially braised with ground spices and milk, then browned in butter), one safed murg (chicken with white sauce), one zafrani murg (chicken with saffron sauce), and the first few courses. Yogurt and chutney are served separately in small earthen pots. As each trami is completed, it is removed, and a new one brought in, until the dinner has run its course. Seven dishes are a must for these occasions — tabakh maaz, rista (meatballs in a red, paprika-saffron-fennel spice gravy colored with alkanna tinctoria), rogan josh, daniwal korma (lamb roasted with yoghurt, spices and onion puree, topped with cilantro leaves), aab gosht (lamb chunks cooked with a fennel-based spice mixture, cardamom and partially evaporated milk), marchwangan korma (chicken legs/thighs cooked in a spicy browned-onion sauce) and gushtaba (meatballs cooked in a spicy yoghurt gravy). The meal ends with the Gushtaba

From Kashmiri pulao, to Roghan Josh to Gushtaba, to Rista to Tabakh maaz to this and that...


There's no mercy, we had devoured plate after plate, in celebration of this successful astounding travel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SEe0LrPFb8

This was the last day in Kashmir, early morning we head off to Dal Lake. It was something of an anomaly that this was the first time we are seeing Dal Lake, after having seen Inshaan, Gurez, Lolab, Bangus and Dodhpathri. Some moments at Dal Lake




Sunrise at Dal Lake, Oct 28, 2011





After that trip to Dal Lake, we take the turn to go back, a lunch done at Bijbehara for a fill lunch as we head off towards the day-night-day journey Delhi and beyond.



We stopped beyond Delhi till where I started to feel very tired, stopped at Palwal, Harayana. From there again the journey continued towards Kolkata but not before a ball bearing change and a battery cable repair - again met some of the most wonderful and helpful but yet most ordinary people on the NH2 highway of UP, who helped us out. Would detail later, as I hurriedly finish in this last post of the travelogue.

Finally thus we neared Kolkata, just a click for the brilliant field colours seen in Jharkhand by NH2, late afternoon.



As highway zooms by and we near Kolkata, we contemplate silently the moments of this wonderful journey - a travel that had so many moments, so many interactions. Clicked here by my friend, Surja, who joined us again at Srinagar.




So that's it, thank you all for the wonderful comments and appreciation. It surely has been worthwhile sharing this trip with all over here and thanks again. Bye then till the next trip, ride, or trek.


End

[mr.sinha]

Just brilliant, Anirban. Caught up with the last part of your trip at home on bandh day today.
I am eagerly looking forward to my bonus next year to buy a SUV and start on a small fraction of your adventures.

[adc]

Originally Posted by BurningHeart

@ADC: Watching that video was terrifying. What do people do if/when there is vehicle coming in the opp. direction. And what speeds where you moving at in those road?

Well you do what you do in any narrow galli over here, either one of you has to go back to the nearest wide point, know your tyres and steering position well and thinks do get sorted out.

The moment you think that what if and how am I going to do it, all your driving experiences are clouded by anxiety and panic does set in in such situations. Just for a moment pause and things will be okay!

Originally Posted by kesri

Have to come back and read the narratives
.

And would request readers to give it some patience, all the pages are image heavy. Read it in installments!

It is a huge travel, an exploratory expedition that starts from Khajjiar to Sach Pass to Pangi and Padder to Sinthan Top to Margan top to Inshaan to Zoji la to Pensi la to PAdum and back to Sringar to Razdan top to Gurez and Kabulgali to Lolab and Kupwara and NC Pass to Bangus and back again!!

This travel can be divided into many sub parts - a travel that has spawned and will still as the travellers connect to these places in the future more.

Originally Posted by mavrikm5

Can't believe even in this day & time there are places not heard of or visited.

There are still more like these left across the length and breadth of our magnificent country, and the Central Arunachal travel of March did explore some of the unknown places.


Some travels will never be same even if we do it again - and this one is definitely one of them. The remoteness and the unpreparedness and the way the interactions with the most common people of interior Kashmir - everything was perfect to make it the best travel for us till now.

And then there is another one -- not a glamorous one - but again a travel that can never be replicated by us - a travel that is impossible now due to the internal strife and disturbed lands over there.

But then when one drives and finds the proverbial secret beach, in the middle of a dense forest where a river is starting to form - it has been a journey beyond comparison.

[ http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...-sunabeda.html ]

The secret beach - white sand and blue turquoise water makes father and son to have bath, also seen on local villager with whom we went beyond - in fact he also was seeing the falls for the first time. - any other place this would have been a millionaire's backyard.

Originally Posted by mr.sinha

Just brilliant, Anirban. Caught up with the last part of your trip at home on bandh day today.
I am eagerly looking forward to my bonus next year to buy a SUV and start on a small fraction of your adventures.

Thanks much Mr Sinha, may the bonus and SUV be with you - definitely good luck on all your adventures.


I am glad that I finished this long pending travelogue just in time as I finished up the last of the posts in some hurry too, from this hill town.

It's sunny today after rains for days, and as I venture tomorrow out, I ask myself at this age of 40 years almost, am I pushing it too much, may be it would have been proper if I was 10 years younger?


Some of the members here may even pass me without barely noticing each other, as I grimace with all the luggage - a change of gear is quite different out now!! Tomorrow I start on this solo journey and will be out of touch for the next 10 days.

Meet our new member, MK - Mountain Knight [Trek 4300D] -- on a practice run, Sept 20, 2012

[mr.sinha]

Where is this last photo with the bike taken at? Looks a pretty mean mountain bike. And where are you off to for 10 days, if I may ask? If you don't want to tell now, I don't mind waiting for your next travelogue anyway, and this time a solo one too :-)
Happy biking trip. Good luck and stay safe.