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-   -   P`logue : Hampi a.k.a. Humpi or Hampe (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/112866-p-logue-hampi-k-humpi-hampe.html)

First I would like to thank you all for the wonderful Travelogues posted here in Team-BHP and especially the ones related to Hampi which inspired and helped me do this trip. Thanks to Pjbiju for the suggestion and answering my queries.

Wanted to do a long drive to Hampi for quite sometime now, but due to some reason or the other it always got postponed. Finally me and my wife did this trip on 15th - 17th Dec`11.

Named this P`logue --> you may consider it as a PHOTOlogue or POLOlogue as this is my first real long drive (>500 kms in a day) in my car.

I am sure you are well aware of Hampi, for others, below is a short paragraph taken from one of Hampi websites -
---------
Hampi also known as Humpi or Hampe is both a historic and religious place in India. This was the capital of the Hindu empire, Vijayanagara, who ruled the south India during 14th to 16th century AD. The ruins of Hampi, as it is known today, are a vast open museum of history, architecture and religion. Spread over an area more than 25 square kilometers, Hampi ruins is packed with giant temples, palaces, market streets, aquatic tructures, fortifications and an abundance of other ancient monuments. The giant boulder strewn hills and the river that bisects make a bizarre landscape for this ancient metropolis. Together with its historic and mythological residues this rural area makes a perfect tourist spot. Hampi is in the list of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites.
---------

Day - 1 : Pune to Hospet, 15th

Filled up petrol the previous night and tire pressure to 32psi, cleaned the car the previous night to start early next morning by 6.30am. Ended up starting a bit late, exactly at 6:55am from my place at Hadapsar, Pune. Took the usual Race Course - Swargate - CityPride route to NH4.

Route -
* Hospet to Hampi is ~12kms


Connected to NH4 and crossed the first toll booth - Khedshivapur at 7:50am after a 10mins wait at toll gate. Toll paid 65/-. It was early morning but there was considerable traffic (mostly two wheelers) on NH4.

It was a smooth drive, noticed fog but visibility was never a problem though. Khambatki ghat had lots of truck traffic. Crossed the 2nd toll booth, Anewadi, after a 08mins wait at toll gate at 08:54am, toll paid 45/-. Crossed the third toll booth, Taswade again after a 7-8 mins wait at toll gate at 09:18am. The weather was pleasant with temperature between 13C - 16C till Satara and around 18C till Kolhapur.

Driving on NH4 is a pleasure and each City can be bypassed within minutes. ~10kms after crossing Satara the road till ~10kms to Kolhapur is fantastic concrete roads.

Traffic was comparatively less. There are sections of NH4 where road widening work is in progress probably 6 lanes. Crossed Kini toll booth at 10:25am. Total wait time in the four toll booths till Kolhapur would be approx. 35 mins.

Wanted to stop for a break, missed the Sai hotel on the left side before Kolhapur as I noticed this late and didn't want to brake suddenly or come back, continued further ahead, noticed McDonald and CCD on the right side, for KMs ahead no u-turn so went on driving till noticed Konduskar BP Petrol Pump on the left side at 10:50am.

Konduskar do not sell normal petrol (only speed if I remember correctly), didn't tank up. Took a 15mins break at the Jai Hind hotel inside the Petrol Pump complex.

Started for Belgaum at 11:05am. Crossed the next toll booth Kognoli in Karnataka at 11:26am paying 25/-. As soon as one crosses this toll booth, one can easily notice the difference, hardly any traffic, beautiful wide roads, noticed few public toilets on the left side in this stretch. The drive till Belgaum was excellent though sometimes a bit boring as for KMs it was open roads in front without any vehicles. Paid 15/- at Hattargi toll booth before Belgaum at 11:50am.

Total toll paid for the ~111kms from Kolhapur to Belgaum is only 40/- with total wait time at toll booths ~01 minute.

Where to have lunch, at Belgaum or at Hubli - decided for Belgaum. Took the left side exit from NH4 onto Belgaum City (had to turn right under the flyover). Headed straight to Hotel Sankam (read Hvkumar mention this hotel name many times in other thread). The restaurant was really good, parked the car inside the hotel complex, time 12:24pm. Had Chicken biryani and Kadai chicken. Filled up petrol from the adjacent IOC petrol pump (19.07 ltrs, auto-cut) and started for Hubli at 01:27pm.

Crossed Ashoka Belgaum Dharwad toll booth at 01:36pm paying 65/-. Weather was pleasant, 25C - 27C till Hubli. Was consciously looking for the speed breakers after crossing this toll booth. From this toll booth till Dharwad there are three sets of speed breakers, though well marked but better to keep an eye to avoid last minute hard braking. The first set is ~4kms after crossing this toll booth. Road widening work is in progress in this stretch of NH4 too. The last ~28kms till Hubli bypass is undivided NH4. Paid 37/- at the toll booth, this receipt has to be shown at Hubli(NH4) to take a left turn to go straight into Hubli city.

Beautiful NH4 pics -








Long empty stretches of NH4 -






Some river -


Entered Hubli city at 02.37pm. Asked locals for way to connect to NH63 to Gadag-Koppal-Hospet. People were eager to help out with route, they were happy to reply in broken Hindi or English. Finally after driving ~30mins within Hubli city connected to NH63 and saw the first sign board to Gadag, it was ~3:15pm.

The road till Hospet via Gadag-Koppal is undivided two lane highway. Good roads with some section recently tarred are beautiful, except the last 15kms to Hospet.

There are many speed breakers that comes in all different sizes and forms (max. counted is 09 speed humps together, crossing these can be compared to boat ride during high tide) mostly marked but some of them unmarked and might come as a surprise.

Reached Gadag ~ 04:05pm and headed towards Koppal. Both sides of NH63 are farm lands with mostly Sunflower and Red Chilli plant with occasional sight Cotton cultivation and Sugarcane. Maximum temp. reached around Gadag - 30.5C.

NH63 pics (Hubli-Gadag-Koppal-Hospet) -










Sunflower -




Windmills -


Not sure why he suddenly changed lane -


Goods Train -


Reached Koppal at 05pm. Crossed Koppal Bus Station and stopped to enquire for the direction to Hospet. Started at 05:05pm, Was a bit worried as I was unsure about the road condition and how long it may take for the last 15kms to Hospet. Wanted to reach Hospet anyhow before Sunset. The road after Koppal is newly tarred and excellent to drive.

Fortunately didn't get stuck in any traffic jam in the last 15kms to Hospet, but the road in this last KMs is in very bad condition as there are lot of road
construction work in progress. Lots of diversion and 100s of trucks on roads. Good thing is the truck drivers was not trying to overtake each other and traffic even though very slow was moving at least. Last 15kms took ~40 mins and reached Hospet just in time before dark at ~6 pm.

Newly tarred beautiful section of NH63 -


Deceptive in size, as they actually occupy almost half of the other lane -


One of the speed breaker -


Another one, more dangerous -


Road construction and diversion towards Hospet -




Took the left turn at the round about and headed towards hotel Malligi. Didn't book room in advance as it was a last minute decision to travel on 15th to Hospet. Luckily got the room and checked in at 6:25pm. 24 hrs check-in/check out with secure parking inside hotel premises.

Total distance covered from home till hotel - 594.7 kms in 11hrs 30 mins including all break.

After some snacks, had dinner at one of the two restaurants at this hotel. It is a pool side restaurant with reasonably priced tasty food and very good service. Had chicken tikka lasooni, chicken rezala with Naan roti followed by Sweet/Salt lime soda. Each table had a mosquito coil burning to keep away the mosquitoes. Headed towards room for a good night sleep to start for the next day - Hampi tour.

Hotel -




Parking inside hotel premises -

Day 2 - Hampi Tour and Tungabhadra Dam, 16th

Virupaksha temple : is the oldest and the principal temple in Hampi situated in the Hampi Bazaar.This temple is located on the south bank of the river Tungabadra. It believed that this temple has been functioning uninterruptedly ever since its inception in the 7th century AD. That makes this one of the oldest functioning temples in India. The temple has a 160-foot (49 m) high tower at its entrance.



Also known as Virupaksha Bazaar, this street is located in font of the Virupaksha temple. Both sides of the street are lined with a series of old pavilions, some of them are two storied.




About a kilometer long, the east end of the temple ends at the foothill of the Matanga Hill.




Krishna Temple






A View of Hampi Bazaar from Krishna Temple complex -




Hemakuta Temple




Kadlekalu Ganesha

The monolithic Kadlekalu Ganesha is so called, for the closeness in appearance, of the shape of its belly to the unsplit Bengal Gram. The sculpture is carved out of a single bolder in situ and stands 4.5m high dated to 15th century.




Balakrishna Temple




Opposite to main entrance of Balakrishna Temple -




Lakshmi Narasimha Temple : This magnificent monolithic Lakshmi Narasimha, the fourth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, stands at a height of 6.7 mtrs. Narasimha is seated on the giant coils of Adishesha the sacred guardian snake of Vishnu, its seven hoods acting as a canopy, arched by Kirtimukha toran in front. The statue was consecrated by priest Krishnabhatta at the behest of Krishnadevaraya in 1528 AD.




Giant Siva Linga Beside Narasimha Temple -




Another Structure -



Sisters Stone - cracked and broken in Mar`11




Prasanna Virupaksha (Underground Siva) Temple
This temple dated to 14th century, is popularly known as Underground Siva temple simply because the roof of the temple is with the present ground level. The pillars of the temple are plain.

Mint Area
The traditional "Mint" is located to the west of Hazararama Temple. The recent discovery (1996-97) of two inscriptions behind the temple in an area called Silamantapa has clearly identified a complex of structures traditionally called Mint as the palace complex of Viraharihara (1377-1404 AD), third ruler of the Vijayanagara dynasty.

The excavated remains consists of great eastern entrance, elephant alighting platform, the royal court, residential quarters of royal women and king, royal kitchen and other accessory structures all provided with a zigzag entrances and a well conceived water supply system.

However, the area is fenced, visitors cannot go inside.







Zenana enclosure

This was a secluded area reserved for the royal women. The major attraction is the Lotus Mahal located at the southeast corner. Three watchtowers can be seen at the corners of the enclosed area.

The whole area was the private enclosure for the royal women folks. The Queen’s Palace (visible only the basement) is located at the middle of this area, measuring about 46 x 29 meters.

Wall -




Watchtower -




Queen`s palace basement and carvings -






Lotus Mahal -



Closeup -





Carvings -




Note the temples on hill-top -




Elephant’s stable
This magnificent 15th century, domed and rectangular structure, built in the Indo-Islamic style of architecture is considered to be the stable of state elephants.




Beside Elephant’s stable -




Pan-Supari Bazar

Before the fall of Vijayanagar empire, diamonds were sold on the streets. The main street selling diamonds and other precious stones, was surprisingly called Pan Supaari Street.

Hazararama Temple
This temple is situated in the core of the royal zone between the residential and ceremonial enclosures. This 15th century temple is known for its sculpted friezes depicting the Ramayana, in three tiers running all around the main shrine, and the narrative sculptures of the Lava-Kusha story on the Devi shrine. The temple is also known for the narrative sculptures of the Bhagavata, especially of Bala Krishna and the sculpted polished pillars of the main hall.



Boundary Wall -



Main Entrance -




Inside Hazararama Temple -






























The sculpted polished pillars of the main hall -

Mahanavami Dibba

This pyramidal, three tiered stone platform, rising to a height of 08 mtrs is located to the northeast of the royal enclosure. Built in granite it is dated to 16th century AD.

The terraced platform is nearly 35 sq mtrs and has approach flights of steps on the East, West and South. The lower tier has low relief sculptural friezes depicting the socio-cultural activities of the time. There are references to the use of platform by the royal family for important festivals like Mahanavami.






The pyramidal platform -



The lower tier sculptural friezes depicting the socio-cultural activities of the time -






View from top of the platform -




Other structures within the complex -








Stepped Tank

From distance -




Aqueduct -



Tank - note the aqueduct used to fill up the tank

Vitthala Temple

From the parking lot, these vehicles take tourists to the Vitthala Temple complex approx. 1.5 kms, ticket 20/- (up/dn) per person.



Outside the temple complex, to the east, is a huge bazaar, measuring 945 mtrs in length and 40 mtrs in width leading to a sacred tank known as Lokapavani.





Mountain Top, Another Temple -




Vitthala Temple represents the highest watermark of Vijayanagara style of art and architecture. Vitthala is the Krishna aspect of Lord Vishnu. It is one of the largest temple of that period, built under the patronage of Devaraya II (1422-46 AD). Substantial portions of the present structure were added during Krishanadevaraya`s reign (1509-29 AD).




Beside the main entrance -




Inside the Temple Complex -








The composite pillars of the Sabha Mantapa (congregation hall) are massive, hewn out of single granite blocks which are designed as clusters of slender pillars. Some of these when tapped gently, produce musical notes.












The stone chariot, a reproduction of the processional wooden chariot, is perhaps the most stunning achievement, typical of the Vijayanagara period. It houses an image of Garuda, the vehicle of Lord Vishnu.





* My still camera battery gave up the moment I focused my camera on the chariot :) Few of the snaps are screen shot from the handycam. 25/- ticket can be bought to use video camera inside the temple complex.

Tungabhadra Dam

Located at a distance of ~5kms from Hospet. Visitor vehicles are not allowed till the Dam and has to be parked (very near to the round about on NH63). From the parking lot the Dam is 1.5 kms walk (uphill).




Park near the Dam -




The Dam -






Sunset at Tungabhadra Dam -

Day 3 - Hospet to Pune, 17th


Route -


Woke up at 7.00am, freshened up and went to the open air restaurant for break-fast.

Available Menu -
Choco flakes, Corn flakes, Milk (hot)
Fruit - papaya
Juice - Orange, Water Melon
Idli, Vada, Poha, Upama, Sambar, Chutni
Bread (toast), Butter, Jam
Cake
Tea, Coffee

Went to room, packed luggage and completed check-out formalities at reception. Checked engine oil, tires, cleaned windscreen and started for Pune at 8.00am. The first 15kms towards Koppal took ~35mins even though the roads are not great but traffic was less in the morning. Temperature 18C - 20C.

Few Pics -






Beautiful road towards Koppal -




Milestone -




Sunflowers -






NH63 - towards Hubli from Gadag








Red Chilli -




Took few 05 mins break till Hubli. Reached Hubli at 10.40am. Traffic was heavy, followed sign boards for Pune. Continued driving as per sign boards and soon realized that I am into a new road (not the one I took while going towards Hospet, that is from NH4).

Checked with few local person and everybody pointed to the sign boards and advised to continue driving straight. After few KMs of driving it was clear that I am heading towards Dharwad. The road was good, however due to heavy traffic speed was 30 - 40 km/hr.

Hubli to Dharwad through this road is 17kms.




Kept on asking for direction to NH4 and finally checked with one Police Personel and he too advised to continue on this road and I`ll reach Pune :) . Anyways, after ~7 kms from Dharwad connected to Nh4.

Total time taken from Hubli to Dharwad to NH4 - ( 10.40am - 11.15am - 11.25am ==> 45mins). After connecting to NH4, noticed the first sign board and it displayed 71kms to Belgaum. Continued straight on the fantastic 04 lane highway.

Crossed Ashoka Belgaum Dharwad toll booth at 12.02pm, toll paid 65/-.

Nearing Belgaum -




NH4 -





Reached Belgaum and took the left exit towards Belgaum City and headed towards Hotel Sankam for lunch. Reached Hotel Sankam and parked my car, time 12:30pm. Had lunch - chicken tikka/steamed rice/paneer/dal makhani. Tanked up at IOC adjacent to Hotel Sankam (29.16 ltrs, auto-cut) and started for Pune at 01.19pm.

Paid toll of 15/- at Hattargi and continued towards Kolhapur.

NH4 snap again -




Reached Kognoli toll booth, paid 25/-, 02.23pm.


Welcome to Maharashtra -



The journey till Pune was smooth, though lots of traffic once into Maharashtra with toll booths taking more time compared to KA. Crossed Taswade toll booth at 3.19pm, paying 58/-, crossed Anwadi at 4.38pm, 45/-. Finally crossed Khedshivapur toll booth at 5.41pm paying 65/-.

Total time spent on toll booth in MH is ~45mins.

Crossed Bharti Vidyapeeth, Pune at 6.10pm and finally reached home at Hadapsar, Pune by 7.25pm

Miscellaneous

Car - Polo 1.2 (P), TL





Driver/Guest - Me/Wife

Luggage - 01 suitcase

Roads - 99% roads are excellent to drive, except few kms towards Hospet

Total Trip Distance - 1195 kms

Fuel - 68.5 ltrs

Max. air temperature -> 30.5C, near Gadag
Min. air temperature -> 13C, after Pune towards Satara

Overall it was a wonderful trip, the drive, the place was excellent, wish had few more days leave to spend more time at Hampi.

-- Thread moved out from the Assembly Line section. --

cya
R

Very nice and crisp travelogue, Avon.
How come there are no people seen in most of your photos in Hampi?

The photos probably make the place look better than it is in real (somehow the ruins have never fascinated me).

Loved your narration! This couldn't have come at a better time, as I am planning a trip to Hampi in January. Do you think 1 day is too hectic to do Hampi and Tungabhadra dam both? Or could you do it comfortably?

Cheers,
Vikram

Thanks S_U_N.

Even I was a bit surprised to see very less no. of tourist to Hampi even though hotels in Hospet was mostly full. There were lots of school kids who came from their respective school but apart from that not much crowd. It was good though, less crowd the better.

Personally, I believe photos doesn't do justice to the art/sculpture or beauty of the place. It is actually much much better in reality.

Thanks Vikram.

Hampi can be easily covered in 6-7 hours, then you can take couple of hours rest and then proceed towards TB Dam in the evening by 5pm.

Spend an hour or so in TB Dam, sunset and then proceed towards the park for light and sound show etc. which I guess one can complete by 7.30pm.

However, if you are interested in art/photography then probably 1 day is too less for Hampi.

Thats one amazing drive! Nice snaps too.
Good to note that NH63 from Hubli to Hospet is very good (?), except for locations near Hospet.
Is that a fair summary of NH63?

Yes, the roads are very good from Hubli - Gadag - Koppal - Hospet except last few kms to Hospet. Many sections are newly tarred. Like I mentioned in my post, it took me ~2hrs 45mins to reach Hospet from Hubli (~145kms), including ~45mins for the last 15kms to Hospet. Just need to be cautious of the many speed breakers. Please note I am not comparing this road with NH4.