[deky]

This log is about a quick trip to Jammu and its surrounding areas. Since my in-laws are from Jammu, a trip to Jammu usually happens once in a year.

Usually we drive down from Jaipur to Jammu and on our return we head towards the hills in Himachal Pradesh, Kangra or Chamba, spend a few quiet days there and then come back to Jaipur via Delhi.

Just after Holi, my wife and my daughter were scheduled to go to Jammu for 10 days. I decided to join them but I could only manage 5 days, including travelling time. Luckily Spice jet has started operating direct flights in between the two cities so the travelling time was reduced considerably.

So 5 days turned out to be just enough to travel and to enjoy in-laws hospitality.

With no other plans in mind, Jammu was turning out to be very relaxing. Jammu was much cooler than Jaipur and that meant that there was still snow left on the mountain tops. Snow capped mountains are always inviting and I somehow wanted to enjoy the cool weather and whatever snow was left before the deadly summers set in.

Vehicle was not an issue as we could have taken our in-laws car, but executing the plan was turning out to be troublesome as my wife just wanted to park herself at home and relax. So, so far all plans were just plans and nothing else.

On my 2nd day in Jammu, while having coffee with a friend (a localite) and discussing my plan of visiting the hills, he suggested we could make a quick trip to the popular hill resort of Patnitop. He suggested that we could further visit Sanasar via Natha Top. Since Patnitop is 3 hrs at the most from Jammu, the idea seemed not to bad and luckily my wife also agreed to it

So Patnitop it would be for next 2 days. I was overjoyed!!

Today we still had half a day left and he suggested that, if we wanted to while away time, we should drive down to the Pakistan border, that is not very far from Jammu . I have been to the LOC a few times in 1999 when my Dad was posted at Kargil, but have never been to the International border.

We didnt expect much to see and were pretty certain that the BSF guys wont let us close to the border but still it was worth the try and we jumped up to the idea.

I always new that the International Border (IB) is very close from Jammu. On my previous trips I wanted to visit it but was always advised that its best to go there with some reference so one could go as close to the border as possible.

Today we decided to go and without any reference so we were not expecting much. We would have been happy if we could see it from a distance. took some photographs and returned.

But luck had some thing else in store for us!!

[deky]

Jammu To Suchetgarh Post

The IB is in Ranbir Singh Pura (R.S. Pura) sector of Jammu District. R.S. Pura lays on the south-west of Jammu and the road in front of the Jammu Airport leads to R.S Pura. Its about 20 kms from the Airport. The route is single laned but the quality is pretty good and since its proximity to Jammu the traffic is very heavy. It does not feel as if you approaching the IB

Check the google maps here for direction.

Suchetgarh post is another 5 kms from R.S. Pura. From here the road quality deteriorates and the traffic denisty reduces drastically. The government does not allow any farming or any settlement on this stretch for the fear of injury incase of firing from the other side. But still you find some farming happening.

So within 45 minutes of our starting we had reached the BSF post at Suchetgarh. Not knowing what to expect we approached the gun tottering ultra handsome Sikh Sentri at the gate.

Surprisingly he knew what to expect, he just told us to register ourselves in the book and proceed ahead. No bags are allowed ahead of this point. Though its mentioned "no photography" on the gate, but they do allow cameras inside.

We were pretty happy to cross the first obstacle. Obviously they had a register for visitors to fill in so that meant that visitors are allowed inside. But the thing was that how far ahead would we been allowed. The IB was still around 200 mtrs from here, with about 100 mtrs of No Man's land in between.

So after crossing another 50 odd mtrs of BSF offices on either side we reached a huge wall. This is the places where the offices end and the No Man's land starts. Both the countries have equal amount of no mans land on either side of the border where they can not construct anything.


Solid fencing was running on either side of the wall. The fencing is erected by India in its territory to protect the country from intruders and anti-social elements. At some places the fencing is electrified. But here it was not.


Infact the fencing is flood lit and can also be viewed from space. Read here for more.

Since we knew that the fencing was not electrified and did not expect to go any further from here we just decided to take some pics along the fencing for posterity sake and return.


After the photo session we decided to take a chance and peek what lies after the wall and went around it. And this is what we saw. A big gate painted in the Indian Tri-Colour.



It was time to take some more photos of the gate.


As we lounged around thrilled having reached so far, a BSF guys approached us. We were pretty sure he would tell us that its enough and we need to return back. But when he told us that we can push the gate open and go ahead, our joy knew no bounds.

Apprehensively we opened the gate and what lay ahead was 100 mtrs of walk in the No Mans land and then a barrier on the border.


So we walked towards the last point to where we could walk. We could see a group of Pakistani Rangers at the barrier, they just looked too depressed, maybe something to do with the situation in their country?? Well I dont know. All I know is that I wanted to give them a tight hug, but then decided against it and just shook hands.




Another quick round of photo session started and I could not believe my eyes when I saw some of the Paki's crossed over to our side for pics.


I asked them as diplomatically as possible if that was allowed. To which he had a very emotional answer that ended with an invite for me for a cup of tea at his post. I had to say no to that or else who knows I could be abducted and labelled as a spy caught in Pakistan

Pakistani watch tower after the No man's land


Also worth mentioning is that there is a 700 year old tree that is half in India and half in Pak. So a picture of that was also a must.


Having taken enough photographs it was time to return back to India


I have not visited any other IB with Pak. But I think this would be one of the most chilled out border. Ofcourse the thrill of Wagah is not here, but since its quiet you can get the thrill of walking right till Pakistan.

Once we returned the BSF guy shut the door back and padlocked it!!

Satisfied and overjoyed we head home!!

[deky]

The day after we came back from the visit to the border we had decided to go to Sanasar Lake that is very close to Patnitop. Sanasar is supposed to have meadows like Khajjiar and supposed to be very beautifull in Spring with green grass and lovely flowers all around.

But everyone in Jammu advised us not to stay at Sanasar because at this point of the year it will be totally empty as even villagers descend down with their cattle. So we decided just to visit Sanasar and come back to Patnitop and stay.

We were in no rush in the morning as the 100 odd kms from Jammu to Patnitop usually takes only about 2.5 hrs or so. We were supposed to start at 1000 hrs but we only managed to start at 1100 hrs. Which was actually not bad.

My daughter, my wife, my mother-in-law and I were the occupants of my in-laws Spark car that was our ride for this trip.

After the Jammu city limits were over the drive was very smooth. The roads were wide and the tarmac was good. Infact I found Spark much better to handle on hilly roads than my sedan. Maybe its because of the extra torque it generates. Basically the drive was fun.

Soon we reached Nandini tunnel and stopped to have the delicious Paneer pakoras. Jammu was anyways a bit cooler than Jaipur but here it was getting rather chilly. The sky was getting cloudy and the winds added to the chill in the atmosphere. So paneer pakoras and a cup of tea was the best thing that can happen in such weather.

By 1400 hrs we were at Patnitop. After paying Rs50/- as green fees we entered the Patnitop recreation area. As we went higher we could see some old dirty snow laying on the road side. Since this was an impromptu trip now was the time to look for hotels.

After rejecting 2 hotels we finally made up our mind for The Holiday Inn. Since it was still off season, we got a pretty good discount for 2 rooms. The rooms were quite spacious with balcony and offered good views. They also had room heaters and the cost of it was included in the room rent. The bathrooms were pretty clean and had attached geysers,

We had quick lunch and left for Sanasar Lake. Sanasar is another 20 kms from here and the road goes via a place called Natha top. Natha top's top is out of bounds as it occupied by the armed forces and they have their signal equipment there.

As we closed towards Natha Top the amount of snow kept increasing and the view of the surrounding valley got better and better. After having some fun in the snow we moved on towards Sanasar Lake.

As we descended on the other side of Natha Top the snow decreased and the road got bad. It was a little eerie as we could not see a single soul around. There were only empty huts and wild snow foxes.

Finally we reached Sanasar. The JKTDC hotel at Sanasar was locked and no one seemed to be there. The grass on the meadows was burnt due to the snow in winters. But it Sanasar did seem a nice place to visit in Spring


It seemed that the suggestion we got to stay at Patnitop was really a good one. So we quickly turned around and moved back to Patnitop. In between we saw more foxes and also played with icicles that were forming as the sun set and temperature went down.

Rest of the time in the hotel was spent having a tea/snacks and playing with our daughter. Indeed the best time for family bonding!! Dinner was in the hotel in bed and we slept!!

Now for the pics!!

Jammu To Patnitop(D) To Sanasar


The railway line from Jammu to Udhampur


After Settling at the Hotel we moved to Sanasar. View of Natha Top


More and more snow as we went higher


Time for some snow fun at Natha Top slopes



Aira (my daughter) enjoyed the most in snow



Well we all enjoyed


Nothing to beat Tea and Omelet in the cold


The snow increased for a bit on the other side and the views got better



Thats Sanasar at a distance


Empty huts and foxes


A pair


Making their den, expecting babies in spring??


The snow lessened and the road got bad as we came closer to Sanasar


Sanasar JKTDC huts, all shut


Eerie town, not a single soul in sight


It was time to head back


Got down to play with icicles


But they were breaking very fast so decided to leave them alone


More foxes en-route. This was a pair too. (both the pics are of the same fox as the other one just disappeared)



Last view of Natha Top before we left for the hotel

[deky]

Patnitop - Mansar Lake- Jammu

We had quite a relaxed start to the morning. Infact holidays are all about relaxing and enjoying with the family so I myself do not like putting time limits and hence hurrying up for destinations whilst on holidays.

By the time we got up, got ready and had our breakfast it was past 1130 hrs. There was no other plan for today apart from driving back home to Jammu. I was looking for other places to visit around but they were mostly religious places that did not interest me at that time.

As we were checking out someone told me to go via Mansar to Jammu. Mansar has a lake and I liked the idea of visiting the lake before ending the drive.

Mansar falls on the bypass road of Jammu connecting Udhampur to Samba. So by coming via Mansar we would complete a nice circular circuit for the trip.

Route from Udhampur to Jammu (via Mansar)


By Noon we had checked out and were on our way to Mansar. From Patnitop to Udhampur the traffic was heavy. There was lots of truck movement, I guess the trucks that must have started early in the morning from Srinagar must have reached here by then. Slowly and steadily we reached Udhampur. After getting directions for Mansar at Udhampur we were on our way to Mansar.

The roads in Udhampur and also for about 10 kms or so after Udhampur were pretty horrible and full of pot holes, but after that the going got smooth. For quite a distance the train line between Jammu and Udhampur was with us. The traffic was sparse and the road was pretty wide. The quality of road changed from good to bad to good.

The road criss crossed between the mountains and the valleys and the scenery was pretty good. But ofcourse the greenery and the chill vanished as we descended.

By 1500hrs we were at Mansar lake. Mansar lake is not a very big lake but still is quite picturesque. The JK tourism has developed the lake as a picnic spot and has made a walking path all around its circumference. There are lots of eateries around and lots of people selling dough for feeding the fish in the lake. There are plenty of fishes in the lake and they come close to the shore when people feed them. apparently there are some turtles also there but I could not spot any of them. They also offer boating trips in the lake.

Mansar is a nice picnic spot for the people of Jammu. So after spending around 2 hrs at the lake we were again moving and on our way back to Jammu.

Just before hitting the highway at Samba at a place called Nud I spotted some activity happening on a hill slope. From a distance it seemed an Apiary. And I for one did not want to give the chance of watching beekeeping a miss. So I drove my spark up the unpaved hilly track close to them.

No one else apart from me was willing to get out of the car. Infact even the windows of the cars were rolled up securely. But I stepped out of the car without paying any heed to the advice given by the rest and ventured close to them.

Luckily, one of the guys taking care of the bees offered me the netted head veil to wear that protects the face and the neck. After wearing that I got bolder and ventured closer to the bee hives. I was still tensed as i was wary of the unprotected parts of my body especially my hands. But again this was one in a life time opportunity so I wanted to grasp as much as I can.

The guys luckily were more than willing to explain and share the knowledge. They told me that this was a mobile Apiary and they travelled from place to place depending upon the season in search of sweet nector. Infact a few days back they had come from Kota (Rajasthan). They had stopped here for a few days as it was breeding time for the bees and when the spring comes they would be moving northwards to Srinagar.

They said that they had 500 of the boxes and each box had about 8-10 frames in it. Each box produces 5-6 ltrs of honey when ready. The taste of the honey depends on where the Apiary has been kept. For eg if its kept at an Orange fruit farm the honey will have a predominantly orange flavour.

This was a thrilling experience but it had to end, so we thanked them and moved ahead. Soon we hit the highway at Samba and it was time for tea and refreshments.

The trip was coming to an end as Jammu was not very far from here. We were at our home by 1900 hrs. It was 2 days well spent with the family!!!

Now for some pics

The morning was nice and bright so it was time for some pics before we left


The reflected view from our hotel


The surrounding areas




Soon we were on the road to Udhampur


Kids studying hard at a school


Thats view of Patnitop from the Highway


The Udhampur to Jammu rail line


Soon we were at Mansar- A 3 photo stitched Panoramic view of lake


Fishes fighting for space as people feed them


The twists as we approach Samba


A panorama of the view


The Apiary from a safe distance


The man taking care of his bees


they lend me the protective veil so I decided to join him


Checking the frame if all is ok


each box has about 8-10 frames


The white part is the honey collecting, but this much is required for them to breed


Can you spot the queen bee??


I have marked the queen bee for you in red


The end!!

[Vid6639]

Moderator's note: Thread moved to travelogues section from Assembly Line. Thanks for Sharing!

[sudev]

@decky: What you went all the way to Patnitop and not taste the rajmah served with anardana chutney at dhabhas there? (Batote and Kud).

Just pulling your leg. That is a nice crisp travelogue. Enjoyed the snow view and the shots of fox.

[sach.sri]

nice TL - like the whole relaxed vacation and impromptu travel bit

The closeup pictures of the fox are totally too good

[Driving_Nomad]

@Deky: A nicely compiled travelogue with some beautiful pictures. But for the off-season, I believe it must have been an enjoyable drive all-round!!

[GTO]

Deky,

Thanks for sharing! Superb presentation of the pics & comments...loved it. Your post on the border was really something else. It's unfortunate that relations between the two countries are as they are. Rather than the people, it's the leaders that have (and create) issues. Either ways, we'll cut it at that keeping our stance of not allowing political discussions on Team-BHP.

Rating this travelogue a well-deserved 5 stars. Thanks again for sharing.

[mayankjha1806]

Amazing TL, especially the pictures of the Border and the surrounding areas, also the tree, which is half here and half there (Never knew about it earlier).

Isn't it summer yet in Kashmir? asking this because you mentioned villagers descend with their cattle from Sanasar. How hot does it get in summers? and till what time snow can be found/seen? Is April a good time to do a trip?

[deky]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Moderator's note: Thread moved to travelogues section from Assembly Line. Thanks for Sharing!

Thanks for doing the needful Vid!!!

Originally Posted by sudev

@decky: What you went all the way to Patnitop and not taste the rajmah served with anardana chutney at dhabhas there? (Batote and Kud).

Just pulling your leg. That is a nice crisp travelogue. Enjoyed the snow view and the shots of fox.

Hi Sudev, If given a choice I will stay as far as I can from Rajmah and chawal both, so it was only paneer pakoda

The fox sighting was indeed nice!!

Originally Posted by sach.sri

nice TL - like the whole relaxed vacation and impromptu travel bit

The closeup pictures of the fox are totally too good

Thanks Sachin, we wanted the trip to be relaxed, free and easy and we managed it!!

Originally Posted by Driving_Nomad

@Deky: A nicely compiled travelogue with some beautiful pictures. But for the off-season, I believe it must have been an enjoyable drive all-round!!

Thanks!!!Yes, the route was pretty empty, so was quite an enjoyable drive. We stopped wherever we thought looked nice so that made it even more enjoyable. No rush at all.

Originally Posted by GTO

Deky,

Thanks for sharing! Superb presentation of the pics & comments...loved it. Your post on the border was really something else. It's unfortunate that relations between the two countries are as they are. Rather than the people, it's the leaders that have (and create) issues. Either ways, we'll cut it at that keeping our stance of not allowing political discussions on Team-BHP.

Rating this travelogue a well-deserved 5 stars. Thanks again for sharing.

Rightly said!! I just stepped 2 feet inside their territory and I could feel the warmth in the air. My parents around 5 years back went to lahore via Wagah border (visa thanks to a cricket match) and had to stay with an unknown Paki family because they could not get a decent hotel booking.

The warmth, the luxury, the happiness that was showered to them by the family was unbelievable. They stayed with them for 3 days and believe you me they did not even charge them a single penny.

But thats a story for another occasion!!!

Originally Posted by mayankjha1806

Amazing TL, especially the pictures of the Border and the surrounding areas, also the tree, which is half here and half there (Never knew about it earlier).

Isn't it summer yet in Kashmir? asking this because you mentioned villagers descend with their cattle from Sanasar. How hot does it get in summers? and till what time snow can be found/seen? Is April a good time to do a trip?

Thanks Mayank, all these stories, ref- tree I believe are made up to add spice to the visitors. But the thing is even without the tree the area is worth a visit. Plus its only 45 mnts/ 25 kms away from Jammu. So anyone passing Jammu should add this to the itinerary.

Right now Jammu comparitively is much cooler than Delhi/ jaipur so at the moment snow still should be there, but I think April onwards the snow would start meting fast and only the mountain tops may have some snow left.

Thanks and Regards

[SS-Traveller]

Hi deky:

Beautifully described travelogue (as usual). Interesting glimpse of the IB. Incidentally, is this border in use for regular cross-border trade and people movement (like the Wagah border is)?

[BlackPearl]

Wonderful travelogue @deky and visiting the border (that too a no man's land) is a priviledge. Thanks for sharing and rating this thread a well deserved 5 stars.

[esteem_lover]

Another beautifully constructed travelogue Deky. Thanks for sharing those wonderful moments at the IB. Looks and feels very historic. And the pic of the fox was simply great.

[idofsuresh]

Thanks for sharing the border photos. We were hooked to the photos and the travelogue. Feels like we should go there.