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Old 10th June 2012, 22:56   #1
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Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

"Going to Sandur?" Eyebrows were raised and volley of questions poured in when we told that we are going to big bad lands of mining hotspot of Sandur. Not many knew that this charming little place has regained its pristine glory of good old days when it was known for its beautiful valleys, lovely streams, great bird life and wild life. Splendid Sandur is back to its erstwhile glory! Thanks to ban on mining in Ballary!!

Prologue

Circa 1982 - The classic Kannada movie " Manasa Sarovara" directed by the legendary director Puttanna Kanagal had been released. It wowed the audience with beautiful locales of Sandur. Mining was very limited those days in Ballary unlike in the last few years and Sandur was known as "Scotland of North Karnataka" with undulating hills, deep gorges, gushing streams, lovely lakes, great bird life and wild life. Puttanna, who was pioneer in exploring new places and known for outdoor shooting, shot the entire movie in Sandur. I was in college and Sandur bug bit me then. (One can see songs shot in Sandur in this movie on You Tube, especially the title song which was shot beautifully in Nari Halla). Anyone who has seen the movie would yearn to visit the place. Though we had been to Hampi many times, somehow we never made it to Sandur. It is a small town nestled in the Sandur ranges. It used to be principality ruled by Royal lineage of Ghorpade family for 200 years.

Over to circa 2012 - Last year, we came to know that the erstwhile palace of Maharaja of Sandur - Ghorpades - was getting converted into a hotel under Welcome Heritage banner. We called up these guys eight months back and we got reply that the renovation was still on and were not sure when it would open. We did not check and let it pass.

Couple of weeks back i was reading about rejuvenation of Sandur and return to its earlier glory in a Kannada newspaper. When i told this to my wife she suggested as to why don't we go there on one of the weekends. One thing which held me back initially was the scorching heat of the region which is notorious to stay above 40 degrees during summer. I called up my friend who is from Ballary and he said that Sandur is looking lovely after spells of summer rains. Added attraction was an opportunity to make yet another detour to Hampi and a chance to see the sloth bears in Daroji.

The problem was to find a place to stay. Keeping my fingers crossed, I called up the guys managing the palace hotel.To my surprise, the response was positive. The hotel was opened to public in March and the rooms were available.

Relieved, the plan was finalised. To leave on Saturday morning and return on Monday morning and head straight to work.

It was a weekend well spent. We enjoyed it and before i take you aboard, a few pictures to begin with.........

The lovely valleys of Sandur

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1629.jpg

The charming Shiva vilas Palace hotel, Sandur

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The mesmerising beauty of Nari Halla

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The Mantapas on the banks of Tungabhadra in Hampi

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Quiet flows Tungabhadra in Hampi

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Last edited by Fauji : 16th June 2012 at 15:19.
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Old 11th June 2012, 22:52   #2
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Lovely drive, Verdant valley and Cute palace!

As usual, we left home around 7.30 AM with some packed breakfast of Uppittu and Mosaru (Upma & Curds). Somehow I have never relished eating in Kamat's . Normally our breakfast joint on NH 4 is Davanagere but since we were taking a detour at Hiriyur, we had no option but to pack the breakfast.

The route taken is in this link

https://maps.google.co.in/maps?saddr...mra=ls&t=m&z=8

We were at Kanakapura road junction of NICE road at 8 AM. A quick pass through the toll, we were cruising on the NICE road and hit the highway soon. I was expecting some traffic on NH4 as we left the toll. But to my surprise, there wasn't much and we settled down comfortably to cruise past Tumkur. After crossing Sira, we stopped for Breakfast on the road side. The sad part of all these four lane roads is that it is hard to find any road side trees unlike two lane roads. A quick bite - Uppittu and Mosaru was heavenly - and fifteeen minutes later we were back on the road. We crossed Hiriryur bye pass and saw the prominent signage for deviation to Ballary.

We got off NH 4, went around Ambedkar circle and were now on SH 68 - the road connecting Ballary to Sri Rangapatna. I am not sure how the road form Hiriyur to Sri Rangapatna is. But the road from Hiriyur to Ballary must rank as one of best roads in Karnataka. Not a single pothole or undulation did we experience. With hardly any traffic on this road it was a pleasure to drive. I understand that this stretch was infested with humps earlier. All the humps are gone now. You may still find some speed breakers before prominent towns. Watch out for that. But for these we enjoyed this drive thoroughly as we crossed Challakere and reached Hanagal.

The Beautiful stretch of road between Hiriyur and Ballary

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-photo.jpg

At Hanagal, we turned left towards Kudligi and to my surprise the road condition was excellent except for two kilometeres of broken road. The road goes through interior villages. The landscape was red with lands tilled and ready for the rain. The monotony of the red was broken by the green of trees and brown of boulders strewen around. After rain, this must be a nice drive though these green fields. Some farmers were tilling the land and praying for a good rainfall.

The contrasting colours of Rural landscape
Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1638.jpg

Waiting for the rain gods
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Some rest before we toil again.....
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Kudligi, is a smal town in Ballary and is a taluq HQ. After checking for directions on reaching Kudligi, we were on our way to Sandur which is 23 KMs away. The road became curvy and we had to manouvere few bends as we approaahed Sandur. We could see the hills at a distance as we drove on. We now reached Yashwant Nagar, a small village. I don't think any one would have heard or noticed this town before mining mania hit the region. Today it is hub for mine workers and contractors who operate the trucks in Sandur region.

As we left Kudligi, we started climbing through a hill road. The road condition deteriorated and for the next five KMs, the road condition was quite bad but could drive in second gear. All due to mining trucks. But the bad road was compenseated by the first glimpse of the valleys of Sandur. Two Kms into the ghat road, we come across a view point with a prominent slogan " SEE SANDUR IN SEPTEMBER". A small climb led us to a vantage point from where we could see the lovely views of the valley. It is just green and green all around. The green expanse is only disturbed by rocky outcrops and cliffs. If this is the scene in June before rains, i could visualise how it would be in September (Later, while reading literature on Sandur in the palace, i found out that these words were uttered by Mahatma Gandhi when he had come to Sandur in 1934. He was so fascinated by the pristine landscape and uttered these words)

The verdant valleys of Sandur rejuvenated again. Thanks to Supreme court ban on illegal mining

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1629.jpg

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Cliffs and rocky outcrops

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The streams which sustain the forest. Dry in summer.

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Samir Ahmed, the amiable Manager of Shiva Vilas was guiding us as we entered Sandur town. I was disappointed to some extent as i was expecting the town to be on the hill. Rather it is at the foot hills of Sandur ranges. It is a small town which used to be a principality of Ghorpade Dynasty. We could see the influence of Royal family in the town as many institutions bear their name and still run by the trust.

The security guard opened the gate as we entered the Palace. It is a cute little palace located in a 25 acres of greenery. It reminded me of Usha Kiran Palace of Gwalior and Jhir Bagh Palace in Dhar near Indore. A simple and elegant structure with central courtyard. The palace was built in 1920s and renovated in 1940s had housed the royal family of Sandur till last few years when the thought of converting it into a nice palace hotel struck the family. There are two suite rooms - Maharaja and Maharani - and 12 deluxe rooms. We had booked a deluxe room. The rooms are very spacious with high ceiling. The people associated with renovation have really taken pains with lot of eye for details to make this place a elegant place to stay in.

Ghorpades' had distinguished themselves as respected rulers in the region. After amalgamation into India, the Maharajas involved themselves in public service. M Y Ghorpade was an eminent public figure having been MP and MLA. A very well read person, eminent public servant, able minister, Ghorpade was also a famous wild life photograher and writer.

Another plus point of this palace is the huge library with rare collections. If you a bibliophile, you should not miss this place. The hotel has a nice pool and jogging track etc. The estate has good bird life for birders as well.

Website of the hotel

WelcomHeritage Shivavilas Palace, Sandur | Heritage Hotels in Sandur | Sandur Hotels

Some pictures of the palace hotel

Shiva Vilas palace glowing in the evening sunlight

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The Central court yard

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Billiards room - Notice the wild life trophies on the wall

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The room we stayed in - Notice the high ceiling

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Balcony facing the pool and vast garden

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03736.jpg

View of arched corridor from balcony

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The corridors elegantly done with seating
Attached Thumbnails
Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03741.jpg  


Last edited by Fauji : 15th June 2012 at 15:58.
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Old 12th June 2012, 18:17   #3
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Lakshminarasimhana gundi, Nari halla and Amazing handicrafts at craft centre

A good lunch was waiting for us as we moved into the small and cute dining hall. We were the only guests for the week as there was a spate of cancellations. So we were like Maharaja and Maharani with whole palace for us for the weekend!!

The weather was hot and mercury was hovering around 40. So there was no question of getting out to see anything before 4 PM. As i started discussing the places to see around with Samir, he offered to accompany us in the evening to show them. We wanted to see Narasimhana swamy Honda and Nari Halla first.

When we entered our room in the afternoon, we were zapped at the exquisite wall hangings. They looked beautiful. We knew that it is the work of Lambanis - Banjaras of South - who live in the region. When we were speaking to Samir, he said that we should visit the Handicraft centre and see the work done by these women. We grabbed the offer and it got added to the list.

Tea at 3.45 PM and our first stop was Narasimha Swamy Gundi. It is at a short distance from hotel. There is a small temple on a hillock. The cave temple has Lord Lakshmi Narasimha presiding over. More than the temple, i was itching to see the "Gundi" or the natural pool flanked by tall rocks forming a gorge. A small walk from the temple led us to the spot and we were not disappointed. Some sort of a natural wonder, the only disappointment was to see less water in the "Gundi". Still the place looked nice. Since it is closer to town, it also happens to be favourite picnic spot for locals which could be seen the garbage strewn around.

The temple of Lakshmi Narasimha

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03746.jpg

The Gundi - Notice the rocky pillars forming the gorge

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03749.jpg

Samir took us next to the "Sandur Kara Kushala Kendra" or "Sandur Handicraft centre". This centre was started way back in seventies by Sandur royal family to provide an opportunity to local artisans. Lambanis - Banjaras as they are known in South - are amazingly skilled in needlework. You get exquisite bedspreads, wall hangings, bags, bolters, cushion covers etc here. Apart from the needlework or "Kasuti" as it is called in Kannada, the centre also makes sculptures and cane work. The work done by the centre is now globally recognised and some of the master craftswomen have received President of India's Gold medal. You can buy on line and here is the website.

http://www.kushalakalasandur.com/

The tailoring area

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03744.jpg

Lambani woman busy with her work

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03745.jpg

No doubt, we picked up some good stuff at the cost of emptying the wallet! We bid good bye to the centre and moved towards Nari Halla.

Reaching Nari Halla from Sandur was a nightmarish experience. The road after Donimalai junction is very bad and it was good that we had SUV. The local trucks transporting iron ore from the NMDC owned mines to the Jindal factory which is thirty KMs away are monsters on the road. They drive so fast which can't be imagined. It is a sort of competition as more number of trips to the factory fetches more money to the transporter. So everyone is in a race whether it is the fully loaded truck while going or the empty truck while returning. It is just scary out there.

The road and the monsters!!

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03751.jpg

We managed to reach the place with the onset of twilight. The water level was not full but still it was worth a visit. The huge water body surrounded by lush green ranges, gorges, rocky outcrops makes this place a fascinating one. The lake is surrounded by tall peaks of Sandur ranges. The colours of green and brown on the edge of the lake makes it a charming setting. Unfortunately the place was getting ruined due the mindless mining. Thanks to the ban, the place has rejuvenated itself and was looking lovely after spells of summer rains. Nari Halla is a small dam built by Karnataka Irrigation department in the valleys of Sandur. I am not sure how the name of Nari Halla came into being as "Nari" in Kannada means "Woman" and "Halla" means "Lake". But the place just awesome.

Let the pictures talk.......

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03787.jpg

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As were clicking pictures, we heard the sound of a train. At a distance across the lake we could see a goods train chugging away. Travelling on this train must be a thrilling experience as it would be going through mountains. Samir said it is built by Jindals to move iron ore from mines.

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It is sad that the government has done nothing to develop facilities here. A resort which is closeby used to operate boats in the lake but they too have stopped. A boat ride in the lake through the mighty gorges should be a thrilling experience.

Two short videos we shot at the place






A You Tube video downloaded from net on boating experience in Nari Halla



We were the only three on the banks as we spent a lovely evening savouring the beauty of nature. This place should look more better after the rains when the water level increase.

Sun went down and moon was coming up as we headed back. I had to be really careful driving the next 8 KMs. I have to take care of the road and the monsters on the road. The trucks were furiously running as the closure time in Jindal is 7 PM and they have to reach there before that time. When i reached Donimalai junction, we heaved a sigh of relief as the nightmare was over.

Samir's team was ready with a good cup of tea when we returned. Samir asked whether we want the tea served next to pool and we said yes. We thought of spending the evening next to pool but mosquitoes were not to allow that to happen. We returned back to the room and evening was spent quietly with some books borrowed from the library with bubbly to give company. Bishwajeet, the man friday of Samir called us for dinner at 9. Simple and good food as usual which was relishing.

The next days's plan was to leave very early in the morning to take some pictures in Hampi in morning light, return back for lunch and then go to Daroji in the evening.

Last edited by Fauji : 15th June 2012 at 15:33.
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Old 13th June 2012, 16:54   #4
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A wonder called HAMPI

You will never get satiated with Hampi. I have been to this marvellous place many times and every time you go there, it will surprise you. One of the reasons for us to come to Sandur was an opportunity to visit Hampi once again. This time, the intention was to visit a famous Hanuman temple known as "Yantrodharaka Hanumanta" and then wander around the river and click some pictures.

Our plan to get up very early came kaput and we were able to leave only by 7.30 AM. Sandur actually is very close to Hampi - 30 KMs - but this direct road is being done up and Samir advised asked us to go via Yashwant nagar as the condition was very bad. The route via Yashwant nagar is longer and also have to drive on bad roads for five KMs. We did not have an option and we started at 7.30. After Yashwant nagar, the road condition was good and we hit NH 13 comfortably.

The road condition of NH 13 surprised me. It is excellent though a double lane. Heavy Truck traffic is the norm here even as early as 8.15. Soon, we started seeing the huge expanse of backwaters of Tungabahdra Dam. The reservoir is geting dried up due to lack of rain. Still it looked like a sea.

Backwaters of TB Dam

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1639.jpg

We were cruising comfortably when traffic slowed down and came to a standstill.There was huge pile up of trucks for two KMs. We had to wait for 45 minutes before the vehicles started moving.

This place - just before the Hospet Bye pass - is a perennial hot spot as there is a small ghat section which the larger trucks find it difficult to climb. Sometimes they get stuck and this creates havoc on the traffic which is very heavy. Construction of a tunnel is also going on and you have a railway crossing too. All these create a big mess. But for this, NH 13 is in excellent condition and that should be a good news for anyone who is planning to travel to Hampi.

We reached Hospet around 9 AM. After a quick breakfast in Shanbag fast food, we headed towards Hampi. We crossed the archway and the surroundings turned greener with sugar cane fields. We got the first glimpse of monuments as we turned over a bend and saw Kadalekalu Ganesha covered by huge boulders in front. A small bird provided the contrast as we clicked this picture.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1642.jpg

We reached the junction where we had to pay parking/car entry fee. At this junction, you get surrounded by guides and we picked up Purushotham to guide us to the different places.

Sun was bright and the day was getting hot. Our first destination was "Yantrodharaka Hanumanta" temple. The temple closes by 12 Noon so we did not want to take chance. We parked the car near Virupaksha temple and walked along the river. BTW, the markets in front of Virupaksha temple are relocated and Archaeological survey of India is reconstructing the "Bazar street" as it existed in good old days. I came to know that there was lot of resistance from vendors who were entrenched there for a long time. It is good to see a clean and neat streets in front of the temple.

Yantrodharaka Hanumanta is something special. Located on the banks of Tungabhadra, this is a small temple. The ghats here are sacred and many piligrims take a dip in the river and offer prayers in this temple. You can not but admire the vision of the rulers who have made sure that all ghats have "Mantapas" or "Shelters" for people to take rest or keep their belongings. The sanctum houses a small idol of Hanumanta who is bound inside the "Yantra" or star like sign. The deity and Yantra is etched on the boulder which is the practice in many small temples in Hampi. A quick darshan and we were out to explore.

Tungabhadra as seen from the ghats near Yantordharaka Hanumanta temple

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A mantapa on the banks of Tungabahdra surrouned by boulders

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A nice video i saw on the net

Yantrodharaka Anjaneya temple, Hanuman temple, Video, Hampi, Karnataka, India

Purushotham suggested that we should also visit Kodanda Rama temple which was nearby and we obliged. This is again as small temple with beautiful life size idols of Rama, Lakshmana, Sita and hold your breath, Sugriva!! This must be the only place where Sugriva finds a place instead of Hanuman. According to legends, Hampi is also known as Kishkinda of Ramayana. It is at this place Lord Rama blessed Sugriva after killing Vali. The idols are very beautiful. We were not allowed to take pictures of them.

As we came out of Kodanda Rama temple, we wanted to go to Koti Linga near Chakratirtha. But it would have been a long walk over boulders on the bank. We skipped and started exploring nearby places. By now we decided that there was no point is in going back for lunch and we planned to have lunch in Royal Orchid. Since Daroji is only 20 KMs from Hospet it made sense. We called up Samir and told him we would not be there for lunch.

We started exploring the area around and Pursushottam was guiding us. We were humbled at the vastness of the empire which was one of the mightiest in its times. Hampi always throws surprises and this time was the same.

Let me now take you on a tour of what we saw in next two hours.

The first temple we visited is a Vishnu temple. The idol of Ananta Shayana carved on the walls of the temple looks very graceful. The sanctum of the temple has the defaced idol of Vishnu.

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There is a group of temples near Kodandarama Temple which are set against the backdrop of Manyavanta hill with boulders around. The contrast in colours is photographer's delight.

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As we moved on, we found another Vishnu temple. Locals offer flowers but no proper puja takes place. The pillars are carved and the idol is very impressive.

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The next stop was the Varaha temple. There is no idol in this temple but the sculpture on the walls is worth a dekho. The temple also has the royal emblem of Vijayanagar Kings.

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The royal emblem of Varaha - avatar of Vishnu, Sun, Moon and the sword

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03765.jpg

There are very few Jain shrines in Hampi. We saw this defaced idol in a jain shrine.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1715.jpg


As we walked towards Achuyutaraya temple, on the horizon, we noticed a watch tower and a pillar closeby. We clicked the picture and walked up to the spot.

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The watch tower provides you a vantage position and some great views. Here are some.

Sight of Virupaksha temple from here is wonderful. The second picture captures the Hemakuta group of temples which are next to Virupaksha temple.

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Rock formations

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1708.jpg

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Old 14th June 2012, 16:43   #5
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Achyutaraya Temple & Bear show in Daroji

View of the old bridge built during the empire. Only pillars remain now.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1727.jpg

Some dilapidated temples still to be restored by ASI

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1737.jpg

At the bottom of the watch tower, there was another Vishnu temple without the main idol. We could spot the nice sculpture of Hanuman and Elephant on the wall.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1750.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1751.jpg

Gopura of Vijaya Vittala temple

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1753.jpg

Purandara mantapa

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1761.jpg

The Hanuman temple on Anegondi hill which is on the opposite bank of the river

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1762001.jpg

We now climbed down and started moving towards Achyutaraya Temple.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03772.jpg

Achyutaraya Temple and surroundings are wonderful example of how the concept of temple as a cutural and business centre was visualised by the rulers of Vijayanagara. You find similar arrangements in front of Krishna temple as well.

Let me take you on a pictorial tour of the place now.

Panoramic view of Achyutaraya temple. The street leading to the temple is flanked by mantapas acting as market place. On the right hand side of the temple is a large Pushkarani - holy tank.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1686.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1687.jpg

Matanga hill as seen from Achyutaraya Temple

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1690.jpg

Look at the symmetry of the pillars used for mantapas.....Amazing

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1693.jpg

The Pushkarani - A beautiful structure with mantapa in the middle. It is dry now. It must be a charming and delightful place after rains when it gets filled up. The pillars are nicely carved and the backdrop of small hills makes this place stunning.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03775001.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03773.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03777.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1770.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1772.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1776.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1766.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1778.jpg

Stone formations in Hampi are amazing sights. Take a look at two examples here.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1786.jpg

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1763.jpg

[b]I happenned to see a beautiful video on Achutaraya Temple and surroundings on You Tube





We skipped going inside the temple as it was getting hotter. We now had to climb through the Matanga hill to come back to the place where we had parked the car. Imagine doing this at 12.30 noon in hot summer with mercury around 40. We did not have much option though.

View of Achyutaraya temple from Matanga Hill

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03778001.jpg

View of Hampi Bazar from Matanga hills - Notice the deserted place compared to what it used to be earlier

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1790.jpg

The main mantapa where all the programs of Hampi Utsav are held

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03783.jpg

Walking in the hot sun for two hours had sapped our energy and we badly needed a good place to sit and have a lunch. We bid good bye to Purushotham and headed towards Royal Orchid which is near the railway station in Hospet. A nice beer and good lunch was needed to boost up the energy levels as we prepared to leave to Daroji to have a tryst with Sloth bears. The food at Royal Orchid was very good indeed which was a surprise.

Daroji is the only sanctuary in the country for Sloth bears. Sloth bears are shy animals and nocturnal. In Daroji you can see them from a watch tower when they come out to eat the food spread by the forest officials every evening. The forest guys prepare a concoction of rice, jaggery and honey or sometimes sweet Pongal and leave it at vantage points in the sanctuary for the bears to feed on.

The road from Hampi to Daroji is in excellent condition. Daroji should be easily added to list of must sees to anyone visiting Hampi. Daroji can be clubbed with excellent Pattabhirama Temple which falls on the way.

We were greeted by huge archway at gate of the sanctuary. A lone forest guard opened the gate. We were the first ones to come in as the park opens only between 1.30 PM to 6 PM and the best times to see bears is between 4 PM and 6 PM. We were in the forest at 4 PM. A entrance fees of Rs 300 per head is charged and you can take your own vehicle till the watch tower which is around 4 KMs from the gate. There are no safaris here.

The gate leading to watch tower

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc03784.jpg

We climbed the steps leading to the watch tower. There were two forest officials. I checked with them as to what time the bears are likely to come out so that we can see them. Since it was very hot, the chances of spotting the bears was only after 5.15 PM. Now we had wait for another 1 hour. Fortunately we had shade and the breeze was cool. We did spot some pea hens in the forest and nothing else.

The watch tower is located very far off from the place where the bears become visible. This is a big disadvantage. If you don't carry your Binoculars, you will not be able see them well. Since we were well equipped, we kept waiting. The time now was 5.15 PM. I asked the guard if we see anything at all today. He gave an assurance that the bears will come and guaranteed it for us. He said that since the weather is very hot, they may come out little late. Our fear was what if they don't come before sun set. Fortunately, one of the senior forest officers were visiting the park and the guards assured that the park will be kept open till sunset today!!

A view of the park. The landscape of the park is made by Shrubs and boulders.

Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears-dsc_1796.jpg

I looked at my watch. It showed 6 PM. I casually looked through Bino. I could see a black giant moving slowly on the rocks. I got excited and told my wife and handed over the Bino to her. Slowly, behind the giant couple came smaller ones. Some babies were also sighted. It was lovely to see these huge animals in the wild. Unfortunately we did not have the bazookas to click decent pictures.

You can see some nice pictures of Daroji Bears in this website.

Wildlife photography: Daroji Bear Sanctuary - Heaven for sloth bears

We left the sanctuary and took a detour to Thornagallu and then back to Sandur. The road between Thornagallu and Sandur goes through Nari Halla and we had to face the monster trucks once again. But the beauty of Nari Halla make sure that you will forget the driving experience.

The team was again ready with the tea. It was a good outing though it sapped our energy due to heat. Evening was spent lazily walking around in the palace estate topping it with a good mug of bubbly and dinner.

We still missed out exploring Kumaraswamy temple - One of the oldest temples of Lord Kumaraswamy in the state built by Chalukyas - due to lack of time. We also missed out to see the car collection of the Royal family as well.

We were to be back at work on Monday. So we left Sandur at 5.30 AM in the morning and we were on NICE road at 11 AM with a break of 20 Minutes for quick breakfast at Kamat Upachar at Sira. The route taken was the same.

Postscript - It was a good weekend trip to a place which is still unknown to many. Sandur used to be a popular tourist spot before the mining mania started there after which it got neglected. I am not sure whether anyone has explored for trekking trails in the region or if there is any organised wild life tours etc. In fact there is lot of wild life in the region including Leopards.

There wasn't any good place to stay to explore the region earlier. Shiva Vilas Place fills that gap. We have told them that the key to their success is completion of the short road between Sandur and Hampi which will be helpful to explore Hampi as well. The route we took to Hampi is long and has risk of getting stuck in traffic.

The rates of the hotel is steep and we went for a package which was Rs 11.3 K plus taxes for 2 Nights/3 days including breakfast. Their rack rate is much higher. The lunch and dinner is extra and is priced higher which we told them to reduce lest it becomes too expensive. The hotel is very well done and a welcome addition. Samir and his staff is excellent. John who is Samir's boss could not be met as he was in Bangalore and we spoke over phone.

Last edited by Fauji : 16th June 2012 at 08:50.
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Old 17th June 2012, 09:32   #6
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

Bumped after moving to Travelogue section. - Support Team
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Old 17th June 2012, 10:42   #7
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

Sir, you should become the spokesperson for Sandur/Ballary

Great details and picture. Shows that nature can recover its splendour very quickly. Nari Halla, is it the Naari or the Nari (fox)?

Great post and an addition to my itinerary.
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Old 17th June 2012, 13:12   #8
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

Simply wow!!

Thanks for sharing the details about Sandur.
I came to know about sandur only now, never heard or read anything about sandur earlier.
The place looks really beautiful.
As the board there suggest, Sandur will be more beautiful during September.
Nice pics and write-up.
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Old 17th June 2012, 13:50   #9
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Re: Lakshminarasimhana gundi, Nari halla and Amazing handicrafts at craft centre

Waah Fauji sir ji. Here I was wondering why the long electronic silence in the travelogues section and to prove me wrong you are back with a bang. Excellent pictures and such a beautiful place. A pity we only get the weekend with a hectic schedule to see what we can in such places. It doesn't do justice to the beauty these places offer.

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Originally Posted by Fauji View Post
.......Narasimhana swamy Honda.......
For a moment I thought why would Fauji sir ji want to buy a Honda car from Sandur or does Narasimhana swamy ji have some Japanese connection !!!

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Originally Posted by Fauji View Post
.......our first stop was Narasimha Swamy Gundi.......
Aah. Now I stand corrected. Just kidding not nitpicking at all . Rated 5*.
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Old 17th June 2012, 14:04   #10
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

Amazing pictures and beautiful narration! Nice bit of information regarding Sandur. On my list next time when we head out to Hampi. Did you also go to Kamalapura? About 8KM from Hampi. There is a museum there maintained by the archeological department(?). They have a big model of the Hampi town. Its superb. A must visit at the end of Hampi sight seeing. Provides a great review of the ruins one has seen in the day.

Any more pictures of Hampi and bears? I am sure you would have a lot more. Please do share them :-)

EDIT: Did you try out Mango tree restaurant at Hampi?

Last edited by flycatcher : 17th June 2012 at 14:06.
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Old 17th June 2012, 15:38   #11
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

Poorna Sir - wonderful gem of a travelogue, lovely pictures, great narrative style makes us feel we are actually out on the trip while reading - Thanks for sharing !
I assume that (large?) part of the credit for the superb pictures must go to your 'official photographer' as well
Would have been a treat if you could have photograped the bears at Daroji. And thanks for all the information on Sandur and Daroji (I'd never heard of this Sanctuary before).

Looking at the map, I have a question:
Instead of Hiriyur-Challakere-Kudligi-Sandur can't these routes be taken?
a)Chitradurga-Kudligi-Sandur
b)Anantpur-Gooty-Guntakal-Bellary-Sandur

And, "No waiting for Rating" - simply superb, deserves nothing less than 5 stars !
EDIT:I'd only heard the title song of Puttanna's movie "Manasa Sarovara" on radio years back, but now watched the video of the song on the internet to see the lovely landscapes picturised here so many years ago.

Last edited by NPV : 17th June 2012 at 15:42.
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Old 17th June 2012, 17:50   #12
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

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Originally Posted by Fauji View Post
"Going to Sandur?"
...
Thanks Fauji for bringing Sandur to all on the forum. I have visited this place a few times during 1994/95. At that time, the palace had a museum which was open to the public. Never knew it was converted into a heritage hotel.

A few kilometers from TB dam, one can head to Goonda Forest for a dip in the TB Dam reservoir. Again, not many know about Goonda forest. There are a few more places around Hospet which are beautiful places to visit. Need to recollect the names now.

When I took my family to Hampi in 2010 Dec, although we had planned to go to Daroji bear sanctuary we simply did not get enough time to do that. So hopefully we will do another trip in the future.
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Old 17th June 2012, 23:08   #13
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

As usual great travelogue.....thanks for bringing the beauty of Sandur to our desktops, as always great detailing aptly supported by fantastic pictures . Has the illegal mining really stopped or is it just an eyewash?
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Old 18th June 2012, 00:46   #14
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

Dear Poorna sir, thanks for the excellent travelogue , all this time i was of the assumption that 'Nari' in 'Narihalla' was related to the animal - Fox ( Nari in kannada is fox).

Just an aisde , there is a very famous stotra in praise of the Yantrodharaka Pranadevaru composed by the Rajaguru of the Vijayanagara kingdom - Sri Vyasarajaru, the saint who ascended the throne of the Vijayanagara empire to help Krishnadevaraya. You can view the stotra @ Yantrodharaka Stotra - English Version | Sri Raghavendra Matha , for the believers, its one of the powerful and potent stotras that can be chanted.
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Old 18th June 2012, 12:14   #15
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re: Fauji's Drivologues - Sandur's Splendors, Hampi's Wonders & Darroji's Bears

Quote:
Originally Posted by srishiva View Post
Sir, you should become the spokesperson for Sandur/Ballary

Great details and picture. Shows that nature can recover its splendour very quickly. Nari Halla, is it the Naari or the Nari (fox)?

Great post and an addition to my itinerary.
Thanks Siva. Everyone calls it as "Naari Halla" and i haven't heard anyone calling it as "Nari". Hence i am perplexed as to how it came to be known as "Naari". There may be some legend associated which we are not aware.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ASHISHPALLOD View Post
Simply wow!!

Thanks for sharing the details about Sandur.
I came to know about sandur only now, never heard or read anything about sandur earlier.
The place looks really beautiful.
As the board there suggest, Sandur will be more beautiful during September.
Nice pics and write-up.
Thanks for kind words Ashish. Till last year none used to venture into these place it was all brown due to illegal mining. Sandur should look beautiful in september, no doubt about it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by samarjitdhar View Post
Waah Fauji sir ji. Here I was wondering why the long electronic silence in the travelogues section and to prove me wrong you are back with a bang. Excellent pictures and such a beautiful place. A pity we only get the weekend with a hectic schedule to see what we can in such places. It doesn't do justice to the beauty these places offer.



For a moment I thought why would Fauji sir ji want to buy a Honda car from Sandur or does Narasimhana swamy ji have some Japanese connection !!!



Aah. Now I stand corrected. Just kidding not nitpicking at all . Rated 5*.
Thanks Samarjit. Now you know where the Japanese got the word "Honda".

Quote:
Originally Posted by flycatcher View Post
Amazing pictures and beautiful narration! Nice bit of information regarding Sandur. On my list next time when we head out to Hampi. Did you also go to Kamalapura? About 8KM from Hampi. There is a museum there maintained by the archeological department(?). They have a big model of the Hampi town. Its superb. A must visit at the end of Hampi sight seeing. Provides a great review of the ruins one has seen in the day.

Any more pictures of Hampi and bears? I am sure you would have a lot more. Please do share them :-)

EDIT: Did you try out Mango tree restaurant at Hampi?
Thanks Flycatcher. We saw the museum but we did not have energy and time to go inside after being out in the sun for three hours. The Pattabhirama temple next to Museaum is another great place. Hampi requires minimum of four days to justice and explore. No, we also missed out Mango tree restaurant. Next time perhaps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NPV View Post
Poorna Sir - wonderful gem of a travelogue, lovely pictures, great narrative style makes us feel we are actually out on the trip while reading - Thanks for sharing !
I assume that (large?) part of the credit for the superb pictures must go to your 'official photographer' as well
Would have been a treat if you could have photograped the bears at Daroji. And thanks for all the information on Sandur and Daroji (I'd never heard of this Sanctuary before).

Looking at the map, I have a question:
Instead of Hiriyur-Challakere-Kudligi-Sandur can't these routes be taken?
a)Chitradurga-Kudligi-Sandur
b)Anantpur-Gooty-Guntakal-Bellary-Sandur

And, "No waiting for Rating" - simply superb, deserves nothing less than 5 stars !
EDIT:I'd only heard the title song of Puttanna's movie "Manasa Sarovara" on radio years back, but now watched the video of the song on the internet to see the lovely landscapes picturised here so many years ago.
Thanks Narayan. Yes, 99% of picture are taken by my wife. I might have clicked couple with Sony cyber shot.

Though you can go via Chitradurga - Kudligi - Sandur, i would recommend the route we took if you want to stay in Sandur and then explore as it is peaceful and you will also get an opportunity to see rural Karnataka as well. If you are planning to go to Hampi and do Sandur as a day trip, then i would recommend you to take Chitradurga - Kudligi - Hospet. The road condition is excellent except for heavy truck traffic. No need to go via Gooty at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjbiju View Post
Thanks Fauji for bringing Sandur to all on the forum. I have visited this place a few times during 1994/95. At that time, the palace had a museum which was open to the public. Never knew it was converted into a heritage hotel.

A few kilometers from TB dam, one can head to Goonda Forest for a dip in the TB Dam reservoir. Again, not many know about Goonda forest. There are a few more places around Hospet which are beautiful places to visit. Need to recollect the names now.

When I took my family to Hampi in 2010 Dec, although we had planned to go to Daroji bear sanctuary we simply did not get enough time to do that. So hopefully we will do another trip in the future.
Thanks Biju. How can i forget your excellent TL on Hampi. I have recommended to so many. Thanks for letting me know about Gooda forest, peculiar name though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raghunath Singh View Post
As usual great travelogue.....thanks for bringing the beauty of Sandur to our desktops, as always great detailing aptly supported by fantastic pictures . Has the illegal mining really stopped or is it just an eyewash?
Thanks Raghu. Yes, illegal mining has stopped as we can see from many empty trucks and also after having spoken to locals. Since it is monitored by Supreme court, no one has guts to disobey.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mazda4life View Post
Dear Poorna sir, thanks for the excellent travelogue , all this time i was of the assumption that 'Nari' in 'Narihalla' was related to the animal - Fox ( Nari in kannada is fox).

Just an aisde , there is a very famous stotra in praise of the Yantrodharaka Pranadevaru composed by the Rajaguru of the Vijayanagara kingdom - Sri Vyasarajaru, the saint who ascended the throne of the Vijayanagara empire to help Krishnadevaraya. You can view the stotra @ Yantrodharaka Stotra - English Version | Sri Raghavendra Matha , for the believers, its one of the powerful and potent stotras that can be chanted.
Thanks Mazda4life. Thanks for the link on the Yantrodharaka stotra.
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