BAIRAVGAD TO SARTHAL SECTOR So you had to go all the way back you came? 70 kms from the Kothi Bridge 925 am to the ITBP Check Post 1155 am.
And
70 kms back from the ITBP Check Post 1250 pm to the Kothi Bridge 255 pm. So that is
140 kms extra & 5.5 hours extra. Time well spent, we thought. The feeling in the car was, let us hope we get lost more often like this, we get to see more & more interesting places!
I knew we were now badly late – we did not have any hope of making it to Bhaderwah or Kishtwar, our original target destination for the day. But then I don’t think any of us really cared, we were so thrilled by the enchanting landscapes we had gone through, we were unmindful of where we would sleep that night.
How did you find this new route?
Funnily, the correct route was in my route plan all along. I made a mistake in not referring to my own route plan which I had prepared for this trip after so much research, and let myself be misled by asking the wrong questions about the “Doda Road”, when I should have been looking out for the “Kyari” or “Bani” road. The ITBP guys also pointed me to the correct route although initially they were also confused but with my prompting about place names like Bani, etc, they also confirmed this road existed.
Were the Scorpio & Madam Safari going together all the time?
Yes, of course. We follow convoy discipline scrupulously. We keep within visual distance of each other, most of the time the Scorpio leading the way. I drive a little faster sometimes, so I do have to slow down and wait. No one was perturbed about this one, since that gave lot more time to take photographs, answer nature’s calls & generally enjoy the landscapes.
Aren’t you blocking the road here?
Before anyone asks us this Q
-
- Not really, the Safari stopped there for hardly a few seconds, and both us & the other motorists had a clear view of the vehicles standing side by side with no fear of any “blind” curve concerns. We drive safely – as you can also make out from the team-bhp sticker DRIVE SAFE in the rear windscreen of my Scorpio.
The boating – which River & which Dam?
River Ravi, Chimera Dam. Part of the vast Ranjit Sagar Dam & Reservoir. On the other side is Dalhousie/Chamba, for which there is a bridge from Kyari ahead on this road.
I am thoroughly confused – where exactly is this Kyari?
Not to be confused with Tyari, the “cliff hanger” village on the Kishtwar-Khilar road. Kyari is a dam colony town where there is also a bridge to go on separate roads to Dalhousie & Bani. One side of the Dam is HP, the other is JK. No other facilities.
Roads here are
Kyari-Dalhousie or
Kyari-Bani-Sarthal.
The goat episode after Kyari – Who was right? Who was wrong?
Much has been written about our encounter with one bleating goat under the mighty muscular Scorpio, a belligerent shepherd & a mutton biryani meal that did not happen.
It was a sharp hair pin curve, with a 45 degree ascent.
I turn around blind in first gear, and I run headlong into this herd of goats coming down the slope. Remember, goats don’t honk.
Before you could say “Ku” in Kumar, one of the goats was under the wheels of the Scorpio, and I stopped instantly, holding the gear & brake in the slope. The
goat was trapped under the wheel, but we moved the car that much for it to release itself – it panicked & was bleating till it would have got a hoarse throat. Finally, the shepherd had to extricate it. The shepherd threatened to throw a stone and break the windscreen, but could not produce the goat which was supposed to be injured – and prove his “nuksaan” (or loss).
What would you have done?
So much of road widening - What is the strategic significance of this road to Bani?
I think this
Chamba-Kyari-Bani-Bhaderwah-Doda highway holds a lot of strategic significance. This could be one alternative road to the Pathankot-Jammu highway towards Srinagar. As you probably know, on the existing NH1A highway, there is a “
chicken-neck” situation in the Pathankot-Kathua-Samba sections where the gap between the Pak border & the high Dhauladhar mountains is hardly 5 kms or so, and in a war situation, the entire NH1A is a sitting
duck (am I running a farm here – goats, chickens & ducks???
) which Pak could shell or cut off, severing all road links from the Punjab plains with both Jammu & the Kashmir Valley further down. On the other hand, this road which we travelled on is sheltered between the Dhauladhar mountain ranges & hidden from any onslaught. Judging from the way the road widening was going on in the Kyari-Bani sector, I guess there must be some long-term plans to widen this road and make it motorable all the way to Doda and thereon to Srinagar itself. I will elaborate on this aspect more later. And getting this road into a civilised condition is not going to be easy as we find out as we drive further down this road......
Is this an all-weather road?
But alas, this road closes down during winter as snow fall envelops the entire region between Bani/Lowang & Bhaderwah, shutting off places like Sarthal & Chatergalla – the road is open only for 4-5 months every year.
Where can you stay overnight on this route?
There are 2-3 dams and dam colonies. Not for civilians to stay in.
The towns of Bani & Lowang look large, but none of them appeared to have any hotels. Hiwever, you can buy groceries, take photocopies, make SD calls & the like at these towns, which also have taxi services to the Jammu & Pathankot side.
Tell us more about Sarthal?
Sarthal is written about in tourist brochures of JK Govt nowadays, as one of those green meadow places. Definitely not a Gulmarg or even a Sanasar, this place is a long way from “development”. It is a saucer-shaped valley which is closed during the winter snows and is the kind of place which only the true trekking enthusiast would go to. I have described how pitiably small the place is, the saving grace is the tourist bungalow (THE hotel) where we stayed in that night.