[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by adc

Whatever you do not enter Assam first of all in the evening and definitely not through the Sreerampur border, it is absolute desolate, few police check posts and absolute pitch dark with no facilities. Road is just about made in patches as the snail-pace double laning construction continues for years now. Definitely go via the Cooch Behar border and all knows about the shortcut via villages just before the border post of Boxirhat to avoid the long jams.

But ADC, lack of traffic is why I prefer this route! But I agree, do it in daytime. For a number of reasons.

Waiting for the rest of your travelogue. And if anyone asks me for any advice on the NE, I'll refer them to you, HVK, and San.

While the others are busy zipping up and down the GQ, I always wanted to do 8 (or 9 or 10) E/ NE capitals in one trip. Game?

Regards
Sutripta

[adc]

Koloriang to Ziro - contd..

One of the reasons for starting so early from Kurung Kumey was to reach Ziro before noon, have lunch, and then explore more about the local festival of Apatanis - one of the major tribes of Lower Subansiri district.

The festival is known as Myoko, celebrated mostly in March and one of the main festivals of the Apatani community.


After all the hours of tropical forest journeys, for most tourists Ziro/Hapoli comes up as an welcome change, a beautiful valley, fertile and flat. Numerous rice fields scatter around the fringe villages and at least a couple of days must be kept to know and travel this place better.

The Apatani practice aquaculture alongwith rice farming on their plots. Rice - fish culture in the valley is an unique practices in the state where two crops of rice [ Mipya and Emoh] and one crop of fish [ Ngihi] are raised together. Integrating aquaculture with agriculture assures higher pruductivity and year round employment opportunities for farmers.The plots utilised for rice cum fish culture is mainly based on organic fertilization.

Ziro rice fields would look fantastic just during the sowing season of end April with all the green paddy fields and that is when the aquaculture is also done. We were in end March and as such the fields were just being prepared for sowing.

One of the major festivals of the Apatanis residing in the beautiful district of Subansiri is the ‘Mloko' or ‘Myoko', which is generally celebrated in the month of March or in other words ‘Mloko Polo'. In order to celebrate ‘Mloko', all the Apatani villages of the plateau are divided into three major groups namely i) Hong, ii) Hari, Reru, Tajang, Kalong, and iii) Hija, Mudang-Tage, Duta, Michi Bamin for all social and religious purposes. The ‘Mloko' festival is celebrated by one of these three groups in a particular year whereas the other two groups join the festivity of the host group; the following year, it is the turn of the second group to celebrate the ‘Mloko' , and after that the third group, and so on.

Preparation for the ‘Mloko' festivals begins over many weeks which includes purchasing of sacrificial animals, collection of fire-wood etc.


Know more about this festival through insightful article: ‘mloko or Myoko’—a Festival of the Apatanis

We headed of to the villages surrounding Hapoli to know more about this festival



Hari is among the most authentic Apatani villages. The others are Hong, Hijo, Bamin and Dutta


Elderly Apatani woman - facial tattoos and nose plugs



Myoko festival at Bamin village, Ziro, Arunachal



All relatives and friends gather up and a great feast ensures watered down with liberal doses of Apong [!]

Preparation for the ‘Mloko' festivals begins over many weeks which includes purchasing of sacrificial animals, collection of fire-wood etc. However, the main attraction of the ‘Mloko' is the erection of the poles which infact is used for a game of acrobatics which is performed on strong cane ropes, making the pole of swing. This particular sport performed during the ‘Mloko' is very popular among both the sexes. Sometimes, even the elderly men and women show their skills and techniques. The poles meant for this sport which is known as ‘Bobo' are carried to the village by the common effort men of the individual words and is erected close to the ‘lapang'. http://www.articlesbase.com/art-and-...is-233802.html

In search of aqua pisciculture, went to the Govt. Tarin fish farm, which was a disappointment, nothing much there



The day ended with a trip to the Govt. handicraft centre






Tomorrow we leave Ziro and Lower Subansiri district for Daporijo in the the adjoining district of Upper Subansiri. Daporijo is just a transit town in true sense, but then the journey again through pristine forests and of course again a trip to a remote place called Nacho, in the northern most part of the district.


contd...

[adc]

Ziro, Lower Subansiri to Daporijo, Upper Subansiri

Upper Subansiri district was formed when Subansiri district was bifurcated into Upper and Lower Subansiri districts in 1987.

District headquarters are located at Daporijo. The important towns are Daporijo, Dumporijo, Taliha, Nacho, Siyum, and Maro.


Members of the Tagin, Hill Miri and Galo are found in the district.

Languages spoken include Tagin, the dominant language, Hills Miri (now Nyishi) and Galo, also in the Sino-Tibetan language family and spoken in the western part of the district - Wikipedia

Towards Daporijo next day, early morning. Of course this is a milestone everyone has a picture of. Zero at Ziro!



And soon leave the valley of Ziro and move along the road as it cuts through the tropical forest landscape and far flung small tribal villages.









Stopped enroute this most unexpected well maintained wayside restaurant at Raga, Lower Subansiri.



Stopped here for a tea and breafast break, and also noticed a developing front flat - tyre change time!



The AR govt. cafeteria is located mainly due to the scenic view point, known as Kamrak view point



As always in our trips, some great help and interaction with the local people - one of the restaurant guys helped me out as I had missed out on the puncture kit [!].





And then again the journey continued...













Nearing Daporijo after a 180 km travel from Ziro



And again due to the sudden departure for the travel, maintenance was done on travel itself - changed both the front bushes at a local garage in Daporijo. The bushes were long overdue to be changed as they had gone a huge pounding during the Kashmir-Zanskar travel and then during this trip till here



Again a few tense moments as we had landed in Daporijo on a second Saturday, which was half holiday and the DC office was closed. We located one official's house out in the town, who went that extra mile and gave the permission to stay at circuit house. We were relieved to say the least, there are no standard hotels in Daporijo. Safari VTT-TMT at the circuit house.



Daporijo town as the day ended. Tomorrow again this travel takes the expedition form as we travel northwards to the upper reaches of the district - we travel towards Nacho of Upper Subansiri



contd...

[laluks]

Thank You sir for a detailed Log and pictures.

AP and the NE, is still a dream for me - and your logs help to give that extra push to get out and do this one day.

Thanks a zillion for the wonderful log.

[indianrunner]

Thank you for starting this travelogue. Given that Ladakh has become the 'flavour of the season' NE (thanks to you and other forum members) is the next place to visit and explore.

cheers

[adc]

Daporijo - Taliha - Siyum - Nacho - Daporijo [250 km approx round trip]


So next day just like the Koloriang trip to the remote Kurung Kumey district, this time we go northwards to another new and remote location called Nacho.




Location of Nacho circle [marked as "A"], Upper Subansiri district, in Arunachal Pradesh

Daporijo-Taliha-Siyum-Nacho Tourist Circuit.

Taliha Siyum & Nacho all the three destinations are located on the hill slopes by the side of the Subansiri river. It gives immense pleasure for adventure seekers while driving from Daporijo, the district HQ of upper Subansiri to Nacho all along the Subansiri river. The natural settings are the best for white water sports and other adventure activities.

Contact Deputy Commissioner, Daporijo-03792-223223

For more info : Arunachal Tourism

Just beyond Daporijo, the road bifurcates - the left turn going towards Nacho and the straight road over the bridge is more common road to Along. We take the left road towards Nacho, 110 km from this diversion.



This is again way off tourist circuit, as we head along the desolate road to those mountains and beyond as early morning mist covers River Subansiri .



River Subansiri at Upper Subansiri district



Always been fascinated by these high-hanging bridges of Arunachal, today was the day they will be tried out!! But that's later.



And the journey continued...













Again most cheerful locals, they were amazed and bemused to see a vehicle from Kolkata driving around these parts. Breakfast and tea over here.




And still the journey continued...





And of course an elderly gentleman came on board and we had again a great chat of their times and lives.



As said was looking for a rope-and-stick bridge to try out, but this would have been a bit too much for as a first try!!



A fantastic remote, desolate drive among tropical forests and we stopped as and when needed, as we neared Nacho.




contd...

[adc]

Daporijo - Taliha - Siyum - Nacho - Daporijo [250 km approx round trip] ....contd....



Approaching Nacho



There is a PWD rest house over there. We did not realize that as such was making the round trip from Daporijo. Rooms are available anytime as few goes over there! The caretaker and a few locals gathered around seeing the Safari and the family.



As I was taking pictures, got also acquainted with an elderly local in full attire. The caretaker of the PWD is the person in coat and jeans and said we could easily stay over here and food he can arrange.







Further 38 km from Nacho is Limeking and end of road close to China border. At Limeking is Shere-e-Chadai, a 1962 war memorial of Sher-e-Thapa. During my discussion over there at Nacho, the locals were very much peeved that no better memorial has been erected over there as like Jaswantgarh in Tawang sector. Shere-e-Thapa single handedly took on the Chinese and had shown exemplary courage during the 1962 war.

The old trekking pilgrimage to Takpa Shri goes through Limeking.


We would have stayed over at Nacho and gone till Limeking and end of road over at the memorial, but all our luggage was at the PWD at Daporijo. So a return journey of another 4 hours back to Daporijo was done.



Now this was what I wanted to do for long, cross the river along these rope bridges. They are a good 40-80 feet above the ground and river. Went half of these and then returned back. A fear of heights of course will not help and also panicking will result in swaying of this rope bridge! Have part video but then all camera antics had to stop soon to concentrate on footsteps and grip.



And the mountains and lands of Nacho that we leave behind as we return back to Daporijo

Menga's Natural Cave is situated at Menga in Upper Subansiri District of Arunachal Pradesh. Tourists must crawl through a narrow crevice to approach the cave. This place draws a large number of visitors and pilgrims, specially during the Makar Sankranti and Mahashivaratri. The cave is believed to be sacred to Lord Shiva.

Menga's Natural Cave is located 19 km away from Daporijo. Tezpur Airport and North Lakhimpur Railway Station are the nearest airport and railway station.

Near Menga Caves, we stop at this wayside shack for a great late lunch of Maggi and vegetables and fantastic tea. And soon noticed this local kid, a bandana and a bike. Cheerful and full of energy.





Finally reached back to the Daporijo Circuit Hous, it has been a great ride for us and and VTT









So hereby ends another day of fantastic travel of rough and desolate roads to a very less know place. Tomorrow we take the known route and enter West Siang district, the well known town of Along.


contd...

[aryasanyal]

Wonderful log. Rated 5 stars.
Having spent over 18 years in the North-Eastern part of the country and not having visited Arunachal Pradesh remains one of the pet peeves of my life.

Waiting for your next log to unfold. This has truly been a beautiful journey till now.

[BlackPearl]

At last the NE Travelogue from the great Wanderer. Hope this is not the last travelogue with the Safari, future ones being on your cycle .

Originally Posted by Sutripta

While the others are busy zipping up and down the GQ, I always wanted to do 8 (or 9 or 10) E/ NE capitals in one trip. Game?

Sutripta Da, I am game provided it can be completed in 10-12 days.

[krish3]

Hats off for the wonderful trip. Enjoyed every bit of it so far.

Amazed by the guts and spirit shown by your family as well. Without their support, I'm sure the tougher parts of the trip wouldn't have been completed.

[adc]

Daporijo, Upper Subansiri, to Along [Aalo], West Siang - 170 km


The next day journey was the most relatively straightforward of all the travel in Arunachal. A 6-hour leisurely drive along the main tourist and local highway. Everyday since our start, everyday had been a long drives and then the tension of reaching in time to see if we can manage a room in the circuit houses. Today there was no compulsion of getting up at 5 and drive, so things started slow.

Along or Aalo is the District HQ of West Siang, a beautiful modern town and well connected to Dibrugarh, Assam, through the Lilabali border. The two rivers flowing through it are Sipu and Siyom. Among the tribes of West Siang are like Galo, Minyong, Bori, Bokar, Pailibo, Ramos, Memba and others.


Daporijo to Along or Aalo, 170 km



As said, today was the first leisurely day in this travel and of course a much needed clean up done in the morning at Daporijo



Spic and span now, but for a day only as we its gets much more muddier as we moved from Along into interior parts.





And the drive continues





Along is also well connected to Assam via Lilabali. Night buses from Assam entering Along in themorning



Approaching Along








The drill was the same for us, entering Along, went in search of circuit house. And for a surprise easily got a room over there.



Safari VTT at the circuit house



Done that went in search of a good restaurant, it has been 8 days of long drives, remote locations and erratic food times. and nearby got the perfect one - a hotel with a rooftop restaurant -great service and a good filling lunch.



As in other trips, hardly any pics of mine, so told son to take a good pic!




But as Safari VTT-TMT watched the Army truck convey return from Yarlung, close to India-China border - the lone relax day is today itself, tomorrow we move again towards north, towards the lesser known and unknown.




contd...

[amitwlele]

adc is back. Wonderful sir. Your surely is one adventure loving family. No wonder you are the Wanderers.

Here i am who does planning for any small trip and you guys are off on a 4500KM trip just like that. I can see one junior adc posting TLs in some years time on the forum

[sen2009]

Awesome Travel Story and that is a BOSS picture. :-)
Keep writing, absolutely amazing stuff.

[abhinavinc]

Wow. What a writeup, what great pics and by your flawless narration it seemed for a while i was also in A.P !
Very picturesque article too. Its very saddening that most of us are lining up for an opportunity to land up in foreign shores, when parts of our own country like Munnar and A.P. are as or even more beautiful.

[rajchetan]

Awesome report. Beautiful pics.

I am sure sunny will be one of the most geographically correct boys around.
Giving lessons to his teachers in school