[rahulk2510]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Today, we were to go to Chandertaal, or the lake of the moon. After doing a quick survey of our "camp site", which was already overcrowded, we decided to head towards the lake. Tent can wait. First we must see the lake.

It was a short walk away, barely a km. You can hardly call it a trek now. Its a walk in the park

Hi TSK, one clarification required. Is Chandratal now just a km away from the campsite/ parking area or is it around 3 kms away?

In your travelogue it is mentioned 1 km but in another TBHP forum (Leh 2011 - Trip Planning - All queries go here), you have mentioned as 3 kms. Also kindly clarify if camping nearby the lake is possible or not. (Not exactly on the banks but even 100m away from the bank should be ok).

I am planning to visit Chandratal in Mid June 2013.

Thanks a lot!

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by rahulk2510

Hi TSK, one clarification required. Is Chandratal now just a km away from the campsite/ parking area or is it around 3 kms away?

In your travelogue it is mentioned 1 km but in another TBHP forum (Leh 2011 - Trip Planning - All queries go here), you have mentioned as 3 kms. Also kindly clarify if camping nearby the lake is possible or not. (Not exactly on the banks but even 100m away from the bank should be ok).

I am planning to visit Chandratal in Mid June 2013.

Thanks a lot!

You can camp on the hill overlooking the Lake barely 100 mts from the lake. In 2011 the Lake was 3kms from parking lot but in 2012 they moved the parking and now it's less than a km

[eq24]

Speechless is the word one should use after reading your brilliant account. I was always scared of going to Ladakh although I hail from Himachal pradesh because of the stories I had heard about Oxygen shortage and general difficulties one faces. After reading your success there even with a dodgy vehicle a new "umang" has been born in me and I more than ever want to go there. Some questions which are coming up, would request if you could take some time to answer.

How important is it to have a 4WD vehicle? Will a normal SUV do? And does one need only manual gear cars or can an auto box can suffice.
You have mentioned that you avoided the Srinagar route and preferred the Manali Leh highway, although I was reading and the Srinagar route they say is easier, also read Anshuman's travelouge and he took the srinagar route as well, what should be taken for absolute amatuers, I have driven in Himachal but this is then a whole new level, so your suggestions please.
Do areas like chandra tal and chusul and other exotic destinations you took advisable for amateurs and is Oxygen really low there?
Coming to Chusul and I read it is on Indo china border and also the difficulty you had in getting permit, is it safe going there and can you really enter China or was that chowmein bit a joke?
Is bottom re enforcement of a vehicle must?
Is a guide required?
You said that BSNL phones only work but in some areas there is no coverage at all, so no point in taking Airtel or Vodafone sims?
I was also told that the Rohtang tunnel will be up by 2015 and then they will not pay much attention to the old Rohtang pass route, is it advisable to go before this happens.
Thanks, I will be asking more questions as my trip preparations go further, I hope you don't mind.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by eq24

Speechless is the word one should use after reading your brilliant account. I was always scared of going to Ladakh although I hail from Himachal pradesh because of the stories I had heard about Oxygen shortage and general difficulties one faces. After reading your success there even with a dodgy vehicle a new "umang" has been born in me and I more than ever want to go there. Some questions which are coming up, would request if you could take some time to answer.

Thanks eq!

How important is it to have a 4WD vehicle? Will a normal SUV do? And does one need only manual gear cars or can an auto box can suffice.

Any high Ground clearance vehicle is enough. You need 4WD only if you plan to take the really offbeat routs in months of June/July. In late August/September, any high GC vehicle will do fine. 4WD gives you an added advantage of negotiating the terrain of some water crossing starts playing truant

You have mentioned that you avoided the Srinagar route and preferred the Manali Leh highway, although I was reading and the Srinagar route they say is easier, also read Anshuman's travelouge and he took the srinagar route as well, what should be taken for absolute amatuers, I have driven in Himachal but this is then a whole new level, so your suggestions please.

Srinagar route is easier on the car due to better roads, but not as scenic. Moreover, often there are obstructions due to bandh and strikes.

Do areas like chandra tal and chusul and other exotic destinations you took advisable for amateurs and is Oxygen really low there?

Make sure you are spending 2 nights above 3000mts (3000-3500mts) before you stay a night at a place which is at 4400mts(Chandertaal).
Another thing to do is not linger at high passes(5000mts+) for more than 15 minutes or so. If you are going via Manali leh highway, I recommend first night at Manali, then one night at a place like Khoksar, and then go to Chandertaal. For the route beyond keylong, 1 night at Khoksar and second night at Keylong will prepare you well enough for the route. Avoid spending nights at places like Sarchu and Pang as they are cold and at 4500mts, and sleeping there is not a pleasant experience.

Coming to Chusul and I read it is on Indo china border and also the difficulty you had in getting permit, is it safe going there and can you really enter China or was that chowmein bit a joke?

That was a joke. but Chushul permits are normally denied. We got lucky.

Is bottom re enforcement of a vehicle must?
Is a guide required?
You said that BSNL phones only work but in some areas there is no coverage at all, so no point in taking Airtel or Vodafone sims?
I was also told that the Rohtang tunnel will be up by 2015 and then they will not pay much attention to the old Rohtang pass route, is it advisable to go before this happens.
Thanks, I will be asking more questions as my trip preparations go further, I hope you don't mind.

If you are taking a "car", then yes, definitely. Many cars like Laura, Linea, Tatas come with under body protection. Yet many others like ritz, swift, honda city do not have any protection.
You do not need any guide. There are not too many roads going here or there.
Only postpaid works there. Airtel/vodaphone/idea etc,. work in Leh city and around. If you want connectivity in remoter regions, you need BSNL. That said, all remote villages have something called DSPT (Satellite phone). At 2-3rs/minute you can communicate.
Rohtang is a mess from its opening to mid-late August. If you have a high GC vehicle, you can venture across rohtang. As for tunnel, it may get completed in 2015 if there are no delays. It will definitely make the route easier.

[eq24]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Thanks eq!

In late August/September, any high GC vehicle will do fine. 4WD gives you an added advantage of negotiating the terrain of some water crossing starts playing truant

Thanks for the immediate reply, since you and others have recommended late August/September, I guess there is some time to prepare, however the itch to travel to exotic locations is something which once sets in has to be satiated quickly, so I set about searching threads started by you to find a travelouge which was written long back in which you went to Kalpa. Luckily the dates you traveled were in February and I intend to go in March end. I have to start reading that properly, will do in the evening today, but would you recommend kalpa in March?. Vehicle being used is 4X2 Fortuner AT, will it slip in snow or should it be Ok, I am now cursing myself for not getting the 4WD variant although it was just 19,000 more than the AT. The 85 Kg weight of the 4WD gear looked too much at that time but now in hindsight . Thanks again.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by eq24

Thanks for the immediate reply, since you and others have recommended late August/September, I guess there is some time to prepare, however the itch to travel to exotic locations is something which once sets in has to be satiated quickly, so I set about searching threads started by you to find a travelouge which was written long back in which you went to Kalpa. Luckily the dates you traveled were in February and I intend to go in March end. I have to start reading that properly, will do in the evening today, but would you recommend kalpa in March?. Vehicle being used is 4X2 Fortuner AT, will it slip in snow or should it be Ok, I am now cursing myself for not getting the 4WD variant although it was just 19,000 more than the AT. The 85 Kg weight of the 4WD gear looked too much at that time but now in hindsight . Thanks again.

There is little snow on the road to Kalpa in March. So you should do fine. In Late feb there is a good chance of a major snowstorm, so it could be tricky.

[debuda]

Thank you, once again, for a superb travelogue -- with both your narration style and fab photographs vying for top honours.

[supertinu]

Yaay, finally I have completed this journey. I kind of took a break midway when your updates werent as fast as my eagerness to read more . Kudos to you Tanveer and your wife for undertaking this extreme road trip. Even more appreciative of your effort to put together this amazing travelogue. All the background pics on my smartphone for last 2 months have been from this travelogue.

Some day I will undertake this road trip. Till then south india it is for me.

[narsi_6989]

Hi Tanveer, I have been a mute spectator for long time now since i was a non-member till yesterday. Finally I am here to thank you for taking me to Ladakh multiple times and to Europe as well .
Also, you have been an inspiration for me to plan such a trip. Hope I do this circuit soon enough (may be this year).
A special appreciation and thanks for all the photos you have taken. awesome is one word which comes to mind when i think of those photographs.

[Columbus_500]

Hey Tanveer.. Have read pretty much all your travelogues and each one just captivates your readers in more than many ways.

This travelogue was nothing different. The photo quality is just out of this world!! The quality of the write up is perfect! All I want to say is a huge thanks for this beyond perfect compilation!!

[Nonstop-driver]

Originally Posted by Nonstop-driver

Would you believe that when I pointed my co-conspirators of failed Laddakh mission to this travelogue, they kind of started beating the hell out of me stating that either we should go there this year or else I should not show them these pics!

So finally my Laddakh trip is happening this August Tanveer, thanks to your lovely pics!

I would require some wisdom nuggets from you. Will share details when a solid confirmed plan is there. However, broadly speaking, it would be from 09th to 24th August and Noida-Delhi-Jammu-Srinagar-Kargil-Leh-Turtuk-Pangong Tso-Tso Moriri-Keylong-Chandratal-Kaza-Delhi-Noida

That reminds me, I know you have recently done a trip to Lahaul/Spiti, still are you planning a Leh tour this year?

[ringoism]

Just stumbled across this thread (a little late).

I too have enjoyed Ladakh/Lahaul/Spiti over a couple of separate Octobers, partly by motorcycle. Definitely the time to go, if one can accept the risks.

I'm an avid photog, but your many, many superior shots humble me; Also a would-be writer, but your skills with the "pen" (even in your first two posts) make me wistful... and may be the best I've seen in these forums.

One day, hope to undertake something similar with our family (babies a little young yet, but wife would be eager at the right time). I suppose we might do it in the Marshal 4x4, with quite a lot less comfort than you enjoyed...

Many thanks for sharing your story.

-Eric

[alfaromeo1984]

hello Mr tsk

jus came across your beautiful log. You have gone boldly where very few men have gone before. Hats off to your wife to do such an wonderful adventure. The views that you have experienced and given us a taste of are just mind blowing really good camera work i guess it must be your passion.

The pics of the milky way are just awesome. Spending nights like these where one can just keep grazing at the sky while braving the cold as well must have been a different experience all together.

Thank you for taking us on a such a beautiful journey.

[anupamtiwari]

Its amazing, its mesmerizing. I salute both of you.

[mr.sinha]

Tanveer saab, read this particular travelogue one more time today since it particularly details out the road and climate conditions during October, so I'd now what to expect for my upcoming trip in October. Thanks.