[chetan_l]

Yet again, another brilliant t-log by Tanveer! Accompanied by some brilliant photographs. @tsk - thank you for reliving your journey with us

[tsk1979]

Its 9am when we start our "trek" back. Chandertaal was the first lake of our trip. And I would say what a start.
The night had been clear, and the day even clearer, and calmer.

We had seen the lake of the moon, in the moonlight, the way she should be seen.
We had seen the reflections, which had eluded us on our last visit.

We really wanted to spend the whole day here, exploring the lands towards the glacier, roaming around, watching.... but we could not. Time was of essense, and we had to get to Leh tomorrow. which meant, we had to get to Jispa today, a good 7-8 hours away

So started our journey back to the campsite





At the camsite it was still continuing. The din. That helpless crank of the cold block.
"Jamaica" was furiously priming the hand pump of a qualis, and the driver was cranking and cranking.
But she would not start. Everything else had started, but not this one. I guess totally shot glow plugs.

We also had a task ahead. Packing the tent. When they advertise 2 seconds, they leave out the packing part.
Sleeping bags, tent, stove, blanket... the list goes on.
It took us more than an hour to pack and load everything.

We had around 31 liters of fuel in the Jerrycans. Decided to fill the tank to the brim too. Tandi has a fuel bunk, but I intended to get as less as possible for fuel from there, as often it has high water content.
Guess what, due to miscalculation about the amount in jerrycan(I estimated 25L we end up spilling some). There is still some left in the tank, and Jamaica asks if he can have the little diesel left. So half a liter spilled, and one to Jamaica, the white elephant takes in some 29 liters. The fuel efficiency is phenomenal, about 6kmpl. Last tankful was at Manali. So the Rohtang road, and the first gear driving all the way to Chandertaal, and the 20 minute idling have taken their toll. Anyways, I would need to keep a close eye on the guage

We said our Goodbyes, and fired her up. Time to back up and begin our journey northwards.
However, all is not well. There are some weird noises coming. I can't figure out if its a belt or the lhs hub. But they go away, and anyways, even if they had not we would have continued. No choice, eh?
When things get old they make noises.
I had a USB pendrive full of our favorite tracks, but we did not play it, lest we miss some "important noise".
So with the music of the Elephant, we trudged on.
The hair pins did not look so daunting now, and no vehicles came towards us.


Our first stop is the Batal Dhaba. Food done, we head towards Jispa. Its noon already. The noises come and go, and the road, well is still the same.


Whenever I have done this region before, there have been patch clouds, but now there were only harsh clear blue skies.


Only the peaks were graced, where clouds sat like the crown


The streams had all dried up, leaving all rocks




And finally, around 2:30 we reach Gramphoo


At khoksar I click this yak


And after this its time to put away the camera. The road ahead is quite good. Its under BRO, and they have been working furiously this season. Some deadly water crossings are bridged nows, and the broken sections are few and far in between.
Sure, some sections get bumpy, but nothing which will give you any sweat.

At Tandi we fill up the tank. She takes in about 7.5 liters after shaking to release air bubbles. I calculate the FE again. 14.5kmpl

She is a weird one, right?

After a short snack at Tandi, we move on again, and finally reach Padma Lodge. This has been highly recommended by many travellers, and we get a room for 900 only, since its off season. We would have liked 600, but then it has a hot shower, a very clean room. Food is also nice, and we get some amazing chicken to eat.

We sleep early today, for tomorrow, we will do the highway. The Manali Leh highway

[Shandy1981]

Very interesting travelogue, great writing and some neatly composed pictures. I would like to be here some time in the next few years.

I think your pictures have captured the essence of these places, something truly beautiful and melancholy at the same time, and possibly only happens when you know that there's no soul around for a few miles all around.

Also think you have a great bond with that vehicle of yours, very nice

Waiting for more!

[harjeev]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

I had a USB pendrive full of our favorite tracks, but we did not play it, lest we miss some "important noise".
So with the music of the Elephant, we trudged on.

I couldn't help but laugh out loud at this. This is exactly what happens with me quite a number of times when traveling. At times, all of a sudden I tell my wife and kids to keep quite, switch off the music and try to listen for that 'very important noise', lest I miss it. And come to think of it, even if I get to hear the noise, there's little I can do in the middle of no where, with a vehicle that most workshops even in Delhi wouldn't touch. But still, noise is important.
Cheers, And wonderful narration and fantastic pictures as always.

[dhuli]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

The quiet morning has been destroyed by the sound of cranking.Everything from the Sumos to the Qualis are cranking their engines. Just a lone innova has been successful till now.

About the Innova starting easier, is it because of the 5W-40 kind of low starting temperature engine oil Toyota uses? I wonder.

Thank you for sharing your experiences - absolutely captivating!

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Tanveer - wow, this is a brilliant travelogue. The pictures are wonderful. Please list down all the issues you had with the White Elephant, especially with reference to the low temperature operation. It will make an excellent database not only for Safari vehicles but for others as well, hence this request.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[bunty1608]

Amazing, Bamisaal, Adbhutt,
I'll think some other words and post soon. It is by far the best T'log even better than your europe tour.

[psathya]

Your pics are astounding, especially the night sky. It took me straight back to the summer days in fauj when lay on my back under the sky at the high alti posts. It was like looking at a treasure room with all the jewels in the world glittering there, just there for the taking.. Cheers. Sathya

[skdking]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Prologue

Its past 6pm.



.....

Your photos are National Geographicsque.

Kudos to you.

[sujithpnair]

Thanks for the awesome words and photos, Tanveer!
Undoubtedly the words and pictures provides a clear virtual tour. Awaiting for the further exciting experiences. Looks like your "80k+ white elephant" was humble except the trouble mentioned.
Did you face any problem with diesel injectors? (reference for this question is one of my friends used 2.2DiCOR for his Leh trip and faced trouble. He was complaining the bad fuel quality, but still the real reason for the injector failure and then change is unknown!)

[delix]

Brilliant.. This is awesome.. Each and every narration got me lost into the valley... Excellent travelogue..

[srirambr]

Tanveer, your photos and travelogue are truly brilliant (Understatement). We had missed out on visiting Chandratal due to bad weather and snow storms in July 2008. Your rendering and photography almost seemed like I was watching the nature's play with my own eyes. Thank you

[tsk1979]

Its the reason.
The reason many go to Leh.
Many just do this and come back.
Drive on the Manali Leh highway. It holds something for everybody. Some go seeking solitude, some go seeking adventure. For others its a companion. Some like us go for a little bit of everything, and also, to avoid the Srinagar route.

Though its been 3 years now. The last time we did the highway, its was 2009. The month was August, the monsoon hadn't gone yet. It was a time of adventure. A time of water crossings as big rivers, a time of falling rocks and no roads. A time when completing this highway was an achievement in itself.

I am told, it was even worse before this.

However, now it was tame. Whatever we had seen till now promised no adventure, no heart in your mouth moments. Secretly I was glad. She had been young then. I could jump over rocks, try crazy climbs, enter swamps, and cross rivers.
Not any more. This was the babying trip. As we went northwards, we got further from help and civilization.

So I was glad that the road was better. But still, as we stepped out at 5:30am, I looked hopfully at the sky. For that western disturbance. For a faint promise of a white Baralacha la. But only the hunter blinked at us, and towards the north lay nothing but a bright pole star.

White baralacha la has always been a dream. We tried to fulfil it in june 2010, but it got so white that we had to take the avoidable route.
And this time, we hoped for an early winter storm, but the promised disturbance did not show up.

The thermometer showed a cold -2, but at 3000 odd meters, starting is never an issue.
So with the stars still out, we set out.
On the highway.
For the second time.

The road stayed with us. And was expected to stay till Sarchu.
6am we are in Darcha, and having tea and breakfast. A couple of bikers are also stirring up, having arrived from Leh last evening.
Most tents have packed up on the way, and the last ones will leave within couple of weeks, just waiting for the Raiders.
Thats the last chance of business.
Even the Police post at Sarchu is gone.

The highway is a lonely place.
As we finish our breakfast, it starts lighting up.

Here lies our first obstacle too. A dirt track. And guess what I manage to ground the center diff. What a start eh?

But then I proceed more cautiously. Trucks have left deep ruts, and I drive like the small cars, one wheel on the hump.
And then the road starts rising


The sun has risen now. We see our second lake of the trip. The small Deepak Tal. We do not stop here. Infact, we have never stopped here


The sun is rising, and the sky is spotless, except for the moon, which graces it like a mole


No clouds today. Its going to be pretty bland photgraphy wise, that much is for sure.
As we climb we see the familier sight. Parked trucks with fires lit up under the tanks. Night temps here go almost down to -7, and this means fire under the tank.

WE go further, and sun casts interesting shadows



Its cold outside. But we have hot water to drink. A bottle had been accidently kept right in front of rear AC vents. With the heater on for almost an hour now, the water was deliciously warm. AS the sun hit the windscreen I discovered icing. And guess what, the wash wipe nozzle had blocked again. Somehow Tata has designed it so that it gets blocked within 3 days of cleaning.


Nevertheless, after bottle cleaning, its time for the third lake of our trip. The Suraj Tal, or the lake of the Sun


We had seen the lake of the moon, the lake of the lamp and the lake of the Sun. What lay ahead would be much bigger and grander

And finally, we are at Baralacha la, or little beyond it to be technically accurate


There is a wagon R parked there, with its occupants playing in snow, occupying the only parking lot, so we stop ahead.

It had snowed a few days back here.


The road is still good, as we move on. And then come signboards showing distance to "Killing Sarai". Little did we know, how apt the name will be.

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

The month was August, the monsoon hadn't gone yet. It was a time of adventure. A time of water crossings as big rivers, a time of falling rocks and no roads.

I am sorry but I think I have missed the dates. What were the dates/ month for this journey?

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by shipnil

I am sorry but I think I have missed the dates. What were the dates/ month for this journey?

First half of october. Its there in the first post