[motomaverick]

Thanks SS for the details on Gir Forest, now you have given one more place to tick off my list and with these details it should be quite easy.

By the way is there any restrictions on the type of route you can take if you are taking your own vehicle?

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by silverado

What is the process to take your own vehicle inside the park?

How long do they permit you to run the vehicle inside?

Are the roads inside motorable for a hatchback?

Do you think June 1st week ( Middle of week ) will be crowded ?

Originally Posted by harjeev

Doc would be able to answer the questions in certainty, however let me try and answer some of them

There is no extra charge for taking your own vehicle into the forest - you simply pay for the guide and entry fees, i.e. Rs.550 plus camera charges - the Rs.1000 payable for the rental of a Gypsy is deducted. However, you MUST be accompanied by an official guide.

You can run your vehicle inside the forest for the duration of any other safari, i.e. around 3 hours.

The tracks are very much motorable in a hatchback. SUVs/4wds not required. Here are a few images and a video (from my dashcam in low-res) of the types of tracks you'll follow. However, if it does rain for a short duration (it sometimes does in early June), you can expect these tracks to turn to slush - but on the positive side, almost all the Gypsies I saw there have had their 4wd systems removed in the interests of FE.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88ZTvB2YDxY

Unless there's some national or local holiday on a particular date, I don't expect any crowd at all in the middle of summer. And I would expect great spottings too (unless the heat got to you first).

Just my opinion - the 360* view from atop a Gypsy cannot be matched by the view from inside a car. The extra Rs.1000 for the Gypsy is completely worth it. I decided against taking a full safari inside the forest in the Scorpio just because the view does get severely restricted. And the noise of a diesel engine does scare away animals and birds.

Originally Posted by motomaverick

By the way is there any restrictions on the type of route you can take if you are taking your own vehicle?

No, route allotment process remains the same. You get allotted one of the 8 pre-defined routes, and the guide's job is also to keep you from detracting from the allotted route or getting off the track (strictly banned).

[specialedition]

What an insider to Gir. Excellent, a big thank you for giving away the details. I never understood the mentality of Govt for people living within or nearby WLS. Govt are ready to spend cores in doing various sought of things but never hit the nail on the head and even after spending so much there are poaching incidents.
I always believed if the locals were understood and taken into confidence, poachers would never get a chance to do their stuff. Also your take on the petrol engines and the roof off, definitely have an edge over ones car,specially if a diesel and unless modified for photography. What would you say is the best month to travel to Gir, March to June?
Thanks again for the details as this would help us all plan better and hopefully get the routes and guides mentioned by you.

[silverado]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

And I would expect great spottings too (unless the heat got to you first).

Just my opinion - the 360* view from atop a Gypsy cannot be matched by the view from inside a car. The extra Rs.1000 for the Gypsy is completely worth it.

Thanks Harjeev and SS-Traveller.

Yes , heat is the reason why i would leave the decision of opting for gypsy untill i reach Sasan.
Totally agree, view from gypsy cannot be matched.

I guess early morning safari should be much comfortable to undertake in open gypsy.
Once we buy a permit, can we enter the park multiple times in a day? or is the permit valid for Single entry?

[SS-Traveller]

Let's meet the lions later. But an interesting group of people also live in the Gir forest area.

Supposedly presented as slaves by the Portuguese to the local Prince, Nawab of Junagadh, the Siddis also live around Gir Forest National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary, the last refuge in the world of the almost extinct Asiatic Lions, in Junagadh a district of the state of Gujarat, India.

On the way to Deva-dungar is the quaint village of Sirvan, inhabited entirely by Siddis, a tribe of African people. They were brought 300 years ago from Africa, by the Portuguese for the Nawab of Junagadh. Today, they follow very few of their original customs, with a few exceptions like the traditional Dhamal dance.

Although Gujarati Siddis have adopted the language and many customs of their surrounding populations, some African traditions have been preserved. These include the Goma music and dance form, which is sometimes called Dhamaal (Gujarati: ધમાલ, fun). The term is believed to be derived from the Ngoma drumming and dance forms of Bantu East Africa. The Goma also has a spiritual significance and, at the climax of the dance, some dancers are believed to be vehicles for the presence of Siddi saints of the past.
Source

Population: 20,000 to 65,000 (estimates vary greatly)
Today in India, lost among the mosaic of different cultures and communities, are tens of thousands of African descendants known as Siddis. Having lived in India for generations, most of them are unaware of their own history.

The African Connection
Many years ago, long before African slaves were brought to America, Brazil, and the Caribbean, the Siddis were sold as slave soldiers for India’s princely states. A large number came or were brought from different parts of Africa to serve in the Muslim armies of the Nawabs and Sultans -— from whom they adopted their Muslim faith. Being Indians of African origins, the Siddis are socially and economically marginalized. They are trapped between two societies, and can neither assimilate with the mainstream India society, nor retain the originality of their African culture. While they speak mostly Gujarati and Hindi, their songs have a touch of Swahili. In fact, their music, song, and dance are their only links to their African history.
Most Siddis live in the western state of Gujarat. The village of Jambur, located deep in the Gir forest, is one of two exclusively Siddi settlements. It is profoundly poor. According to one commonly accepted legend, the founder of this Siddi settlement came from Nigeria via Sudan on his Hajj in Mecca. This leader was a wealthy merchant by the name of Bawa/Baba Ghor who first settled in the Rajpipla Hills before arriving at Jambur.

What They Do
Siddi adults are typically daily labourers, engaged in organised odd jobs. They leave early in the morning to work in the fields, forests, or on the roads to earn 50-60 rupees (about US$1.50) a day. Children are often left to fend for themselves, parents often unaware of their activities. Few Siddis finish primary school and even fewer go to high school. Women are especially marginalized, and have no knowledge of the outside world.

Social Issues of the Siddi
Some of the social issues of the Siddis include alcoholism (men spend a major amount of their small earnings to buy local liquor, thus depriving their families of basic necessities); school drop outs; broken families; poor hygiene and a lack of health care; poverty and powerlessness. Their lack of education and consequent slavery into menial jobs degrades them below the so-called social strata.
Source

Route #1 through the Gir forest takes you through villages and mango orchards, and also through the Siddi village of Sirvan.

Siddi kids playing on the dusty road - makes you wonder if you weren't visiting Africa in search of lions, instead of Gujarat.

Yet, it is the day of Holi, and the gathering of folks in the village looks like any other gathering at any other village in this part of the country.

We carry on past the gate and into the forest, upto Deva Dungar, where the road is blocked.

The short trip through the Siddi village was educative.

[SS-Traveller]

Route #1 is generally boring. The road ends at Deva Dungar, and there's this artificial tank for thirsty animals to visit in the peak of summer.

So our rather newbie guide Rajubhai wants us to wait here for lions to turn up for a drink. We had no choice about who we got as guide, and this rather brash fellow kept chewing on pan masala, spitting out, swilling his mouth with water, and rinsing out again - all from the running car, despite being told a couple of times (in Gujarati no less, by the friend accompanying us!) not to do it. He hated us for being ticked off!

Another Gypsy turns up too, and the drivers and guides while away their time chatting. They don't expect a lion to turn up either...

Can we get a move on please? The rest of the jungle beckons.

A few moments of mild excitement as these two cross the road ahead of us. Leisurely pace, so obviously there are no lions chasing after them!

Next stop - the almost-dry Kamleshwar dam.

[SS-Traveller]

The Kamleshwar Dam is situated within the Sasan-Gir National Park, in its very centre. This dam is built over one of the seven rivers that drain in the area of Gir Sanctuary. These rivers include Shingoda, Raval, Godavari, Macchundri, Hiran, Datardi and Saraswati. Kamleshwar Dam is built over Hiran River. It is also referred to as the life line of Gir. It is the breeding site of marsh crocodiles of Gir along with being the halt point of many species of birds.
Source

It's a long and dusty road to the Kamleshwar Dam. The drought in Saurashtra has reduced the reservoir to an almost dry patch of land. Little water remains, and the locals estimate that it might last for another 2 weeks at most.

The end of the road, as we reach the base of the watch tower

[SS-Traveller]

The reservoir of the Kamleshwar Dam - this place used to be filled with water every year. In the end of March 2013, the parched, arid land thirsts for rain.

What remains are little patches of blue

The birds and crocodiles that thrive in the waters of the reservoir, are having a tough time now, finding their food

[harjeev]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

The reservoir of the Kamleshwar Dam - this place used to be filled with water every year. In the end of March 2013, the parched, arid land thirsts for rain.

Wonderful Travelogue coming up Doc. As I said before this thread contains so much information on just about anything to do sith FRH and Booking Safari's in Sasan that I've just emailed the link to a friend of mine who's planning to visit Sasan in a couple of months.
I knew that Gujarat had deficient rainfall last year but the condition the Kamleshwar Dam is in, its a complete change from what I saw in March of 2011. If I have your permission I would like to post a couple of pictures I took of the Kamleshwar Dam full of water.
Cheers doc and please carry on.
Harjeev

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by harjeev

If I have your permission I would like to post a couple of pictures I took of the Kamleshwar Dam full of water.

Thank you Harjeev. You are welcome to post any number of pics you want!

Back in October 2007, the tracks through the forest were wet, and there was often water flowing across the causeways from the numerous small seasonal streams that abound in the region.

The foliage, however, was so dense that spotting animals located sitting away from the track was almost impossible.

This year, we were so lucky as to spot a leopard...

It was stalking this deer across the track, when our Gypsy arrived at a rather inopportune moment. After we managed to glimpse the leopard for a few seconds (and get just the couple of not-so-good photos), it turned and walked away into the deeper jungle, and we lost sight of it.

[harjeev]

Thanks Doc. I too was told by my guide that sighting a Lepord is indeed very rare. I though haven't ever been lucky to spot one in the wild. My brother sighted one in Corbett but by the time he got his camera to point at the elusive cat, it had disappeared in the thicket.

Coming back to Kamleshwar, the following pictures were taken in the last week of Mar'11. I was surprised to see all this water disappeared in your pictures. Deficient rainfall coupled with drought like conditions plaguing Gujarat is to blame.

Cheers Doc

these pics were taken with high ISO (owing to lack of light) hense the quality

A Panorama attempt at Kamleshwar



View of the Viewing post





Routes which lead to Kamleshwar Dam

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by harjeev

...Kamleshwar, the following pictures were taken in the last week of Mar'11.

What a contrast between photographs taken 2 years apart, at exactly the same time of year! Thanks for sharing!

[SunilM]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

There has been a profusion of hotels and guest houses in and around Sasan Gir. Yet, the Gujarat Forest Department-run Sinh Sadan is probably the best place to stay there, despite the fact that booking a room is a slightly difficult exercise.

At our visit to Sasan Gir late last year, we stayed in one of the resorts within Gir, Vanvaso . It is on the banks of Hiran river and has high quality amnities, well maintained garden, has great food. While I agree that Sinh Sadan is a great place to stay, I am not sure its worth the trouble - booking and then dealing with those government guys! Just my personal opinion - now a days there are some really good private resorts / hotels which are first class and just takes a few clicks to book. As a bonus the resort guys take care of booking the safari Gypsi and any other help you many need, which is very helpful, especially for people from outside Gujarat.

During the trip, we were fortunate enough to spot a pride of lions (about 10-12 of them) on our 6.30 am trip on route#6. They were hardly 50 feet away and the sight was breathtaking (even if a little scary!).

The thread revived memories of our trip. It is beyond 5-star Awesome pictures as well.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by SunilM

I agree that Sinh Sadan is a great place to stay...

Sinh Sadan is perhaps the most VFM accommodation - it's clean and basic, maintenance is good, and AC rooms at Rs.1500+taxes are a steal. And when taking a morning safari (all safaris originate from Sinh Sadan's Reception Centre), the later you can get out of bed, the better! Compared to that, the other resorts & hotels are a lot more expensive, especially when booked over the net or remotely - and you need to drive to reach Sinh Sadan in time for the route & guide allotments.

We did not manage to get rooms at Sinh Sadan this time, and made do with 2 nights at a hotel called the Gir Lion's Paw. The link will take you to my review and photographs of the place. Strangely, TripAdvisor lists this under hotels in Junagadh and not in Sasan Gir. The prices quoted by Cleartrip are over Rs.5000 per night, but we paid a lot less (I am not at liberty to reveal how much).

In case anyone does need to find rooms at Sasan Gir at a discount, feel free to check with my friend Kantibhai at nine-eight-seven-nine-nine-eight-five-eight-one-one. He lives in Sasan Gir itself, and can network with the hotels to secure a better price than the rack rates any of the hotels offer. Please tell him that Shom gave you his number.

Originally Posted by SunilM

During the trip, we were fortunate enough to spot a pride of lions (about 10-12 of them) on our 6.30 am trip on route#6. They were hardly 50 feet away and the sight was breathtaking (even if a little scary!).

That's great! Please share some of the photographs if you can. Our lion spottings were on route #6 too, and the guides say this is one of the routes where lions are spotted regularly. The least likelihood of a spotting is on route #1.

[harjeev]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

We did not manage to get rooms at Sinh Sadan this time, and made do with 2 nights at a hotel called the Gir Lion's Paw. The link will take you to my review and photographs of the place. Strangely, TripAdvisor lists this under hotels in Junagadh and not in Sasan Gir. The prices quoted by Cleartrip are over Rs.5000 per night, but we paid a lot less (I am not at liberty to reveal how much).

Hi Doc, Great description and pictures. As a sheer coincidence I too had planned to stay at Gir Lion's Paw(GLP) but thereafter decided to stay at Gir Pride Resort(GPR)also caller Parmar Guest House. Having already stayed at this place in the past I decided to again stay at the same place, however it wasn't as good as an experience as last time most probably because the owner has given the day to day running's of the place to his nephew.
The best part of both these resorts GLP & GPR is that they're just 1/2 a Km apart and in the thick of the Gir Forest. GLP's almost 1.4 Km inside from the main road.
Link on Google Maps

Next time surely I'll give Kantibhai a call and give your reference for a booking.
Gir's Lion Paw is managed by Kapil who hails from Delhi and I believe that he's taken the resort on lease. I have the brochure of the Gir's Lion Paw as I visited his place. Will scan and upload it on this thread.