[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by harjeev

Gir's Lion Paw is managed by Kapil who hails from Delhi and I believe that he's taken the resort on lease. I have the brochure of the Gir's Lion Paw as I visited his place. Will scan and upload it on this thread.

We met Kapil, but I'm not sure whether he has taken the place on lease, or is just the manager. I believe the initial (low) tariff commitments were given by someone else, probably the owner himself, to my friend (not Kantibhai, but another friend from Jamnagar), and on our arrival at the hotel, the front desk guy called Mohsin refused to honour the same, and asked for more than double the agreed price. Kapil was caught hold of, and he finally relented to a price slightly higher than was committed originally, which was fine with us.

Also, for the afternoon safari on the first day, we had asked for prior reservations to be made (and emailed my ID documents to the hotel for the purpose 1 week before), but they did not arrange for it. We were heading out on our own to the Reception Centre to see if we could get a slot, when Mohsin suddenly decided to accompany us on his motorbike, and did the actual transaction at the counter himself - the counter was not crowded, this being the day before Holi and a working day.

At the time of check-out, he wanted Rs.3000 as the safari charge for that session. Since we had already done our own booking for the next safari, and knew the actual charges (Rs.1550), we refused to pay double for what he labelled as "service charges". Ultimately some more polite telephonic arm-twisting later, Kapil agreed to accept whatever we wanted to pay - we paid Rs.1750 (adding Rs.200 to the regular charge, for the effort Mohsin took).

I suppose Kapil's Delhi methods of doing business are carried over in Sasan Gir - my friends specifically commented that this guy Kapil does not know how to do business, and doesn't understand the value of commitments & long-term business relations; and that's because he is not a Gujarati!

Sure, please scan and upload the brochure.

[SS-Traveller]

Our lion-spotting safari

This was our lucky first trip on route #6, with Bhikubhai as the guide.

And off we go

How can a safari begin auspiciously without spotting the big cats' pug marks?

This is an interesting tree - the Gum Tree (no kookaburras sitting on them though). Also known as kogdol or kadayo locally in Gujarati, the scientific name is Sterculia urens. It is said that the bark is so smooth that leopards cannot climb up this tree. The guide explained that the tree is also called "Foreigner Lady" because of its whitish bark in stark contrast to the the brown of the surrounding sagwan trees. Talk about the Indian obsession with complexions!

The forest floor was covered in dry leaves that rustled in the wind. But back in 2007, when we had visited Gir after the monsoons, the leaves had rotted in the water and looked like this

The ubiquitous and fearless maldhari inside the forest, with his herd of cows and buffaloes

Bosom pals - the deer and the monkeys

We stopped for a while beside this artificial watering hole, and all we saw were a few birds having a gala time

Flying away...

Hello beautiful...

And a short while later, we spot our first lioness. Can't see her? Neither could we at first...

Here she is, in the cropped picture

Another pic, zoomed in. The tree branches got in the way and messed up focus

Geotagging photos is a marvellous innovation - here's the exact location in the forest where we spotted her.

Little did we know that this was not the only time we would encounter lions on this safari...

[SS-Traveller]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QURwAdRjelk

We came upon our second sighting a short distance from the first one.

There she was, lying down in the shade, head turned to the other side, a little uninterested in the noise of our Gypsy driving up.

Wait a sec! She's got a partner watching her back, sitting attentively a little distance away. Can you spot her?

No? Okay, try this pic...

...or this one...?

So there she is!

The lioness in the foreground finally deigns to turn her head and look at us.

Whaddya guys want? Stop bothering me and go away!

The partner watching her back suddenly gives off a growl and sits up. She doesn't like us hanging around there either.

A rotund forest guard standing at some distance with a stick, comes running. Please leave, bhai, the lioness is injured.

She's hurt herself in the eye from a thorn while hunting a little while ago.

We've got to move on. But one last look before we do.

Enough lionesses for one day? Not quite. More coming up!

[shomshree]

Thank you for the excellent travelogue. You are very lucky to have a close view of a lioness. After roaming 2 days we didn't able to find a single lion. When I visited Gir in 2005 we stayed in a resort run by the Taj group. Would you have any idea on whether that property still exists?

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by shomshree

...a resort run by the Taj group. Would you have any idea on whether that property still exists?

Yes, the Gateway Hotel Gir Forest is still very much in existence and in business.

Part of the Taj Group of Hotels, The Gateway Hotels & Resorts are full service upscale hotels and resorts in the South Asia region. We offer consistent, quick and crisp service for smart travellers seeking hassle-free and contemporary experiences. Link

[SS-Traveller]

Now that we had 2 sightings, our excitement was at its peak. As the Gypsy slowly cruised through the forest, Bhikubhai made a call to someone, and asked the driver to follow a new track. And here we have our third sighting of the day.

There were, not one or two, but a full half-dozen lions - a pride having a gala time feeding from a fresh deer kill. Watch this fellow carry off a nice shank of venison!

Time for some play by the younger lions.

And here's the mother lioness, stretched out and resting, probably tired out after the hunt.

She looks up once, as if to tell the cubs to stop making too much of commotion.

The play was getting a little too close to the two Gypsies stopped there, and the drivers prudently decided to reverse out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WGYXDLxBC0

Soon after, this is what happened.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuo472wriuE

As daylight faded and the clock struck six-thirty, it was time to get out of the forest quickly.

[SS-Traveller]

Lion safaris are thirsty business, especially when one gets to see so many lions in a single visit! Off we go to our friend's farm, where a huge bunch of green coconuts awaits us. One of the healthiest ways of quenching thirst and hunger is to have a lot of green coconuts, as anyone in any coastal region will tell you.

Pics from the farm, shot in the fading light of the evening...

Mmmm... that was delicious...

The full moon of Holi

The community bonfire on the occasion of Holi

[SS-Traveller]

Reminiscences took a break for a few days, and here we continue.

The Gir Interpretaion Zone in Devaliya, 12 kilometers from Sasan, is a fenced area of 4.12 sq. km. The area represents typical Gir habitats and wildlife and depicts model wildlife management practices.

This is the retirement home of superseded old kings and queens of Gir, where they are fed, looked after, don't need to hunt, and are at peace with the rest of the inhabitants of the wild. Also, this is where one takes the kids to, if one has been unlucky during the actual jungle safaris, to satiate their appetite for looking at lions.

The photos below were taken in 2007, when we were unlucky too, with 2 safaris into the jungle yielding no lion sightings.

On our way to Devaliya

At the gate

Reception

Boarding the bus

All aboard

The deer and the 'langur' monkeys. No alarm calls, unlike in the "real" jungle!

She suddenly arrives out of the long grass to say "hello" to us

Finally walks off across the stream in a dignified manner

The fellows on the tractor are deployed to watch out for her well-being, and they follow at a discreet distance. VIP treatment!

[SS-Traveller]

The Crocodile Rearing Centre at Sasan Gir is only one of (AFAIK) 4 such centres in India, the others being in Kolkata, Hyderabad and Chennai. Unfortunately during our trip this time, the centre was not open to public. We had been there in 2007.

Eggs are collected from the crocodiles' nests around the reservoir of the Kamleshwar Dam by Forest Department personnel, and hatched in the rearing centre. These are mugger crocodiles (Crocodylus palustris) (literally "crocodile of the marsh"), also called the Indian, Indus, Persian, or marsh crocodiles. For 5 years, they are fed in the rearing centre on a diet of fish and meat, and then released into the Kamleshwar Dam. Steve Irwin would have been proud - after all, India's crocodile conservation programme is at par with work carried out in Australia.

Back in 2007, it was allowed to watch the crocodiles being fed in the late afternoon, on certain days of the week (we didn't get to watch the feeding, because by the time we got back from our evening safari, the feeding was over). Since the centre was closed this time, we couldn't find out whether this was still allowed, but perhaps, @SDP, you can shed some light on this.

But then, muggers are not the fiercest animals in the Crocodile Rearing Centre. Look who's got his tail between his legs!

[SDP]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

...
[left]Back in 2007, it was allowed to watch the crocodiles being fed in the late afternoon, on certain days of the week (we didn't get to watch the feeding, because by the time we got back from our evening safari, the feeding was over). Since the centre was closed this time, we couldn't find out whether this was still allowed, but perhaps, @SDP, you can shed some light on this.
...

Sorry Doc! You have provided significantly more details here than what I understood during my visit. When we visited, except a sleepy "chowkidaar", there was nobody there. He did ask us what we wanted and later told us that the center is closed for renovation. At the same time, he did not object to we having a dekko and even resting there.

My guess is that even though the center is officially closed, if you walk in at the correct time, one might still be able to see the feeding.

EDIT: Big doubt! A quick visit to my Gujarat photos and now I am not sure whether we are talking about the same place.

This is a snap from my visit in Nov'2012. The place looks quite different.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by SDP

EDIT: Big doubt! A quick visit to my Gujarat photos and now I am not sure whether we are talking about the same place.

This is a snap from my visit in Nov'2012. The place looks quite different.
Attachment 1080563

Indeed, quite different. The holding pens have become larger, with new construction apparent all around. But rest assured, it IS the same place!

[desertfox]

Nice travelouge, seems you all had a good time. I had been to Gir way back in 1993 when I went to visit the Tata Chemicals plant in Mithapur. After that I never got an opportunity to go there. From the pictures and the account, there have been quite a few improvements all around.

On the issue of why the Lion is confined to Gir forest only the Wikipedia account is not very accurate. He is referring to the Asiatic Cheetah instead of Lions.

I have been a keen naturalist for over 35 years now. On the issue of Lions, my source is HH Shri Brijraj Singh Ji the present Maharaja of Kota and Col. Kesri Singh of Jaipur, who was the Supretendent of Police in Jaipur in the service of Maharaja HH Jai Singh Ji and earlier in the service of HH The Maharaja of Gwalior Shri Madhavrao Scindia Ji in 1920s and 30s, besides the police, wildlife department was also under his direct supervision.

He has authored many books published by Jaico Publishing of Bombay :

The Tiger of Rajasthan
Hints on Tiger Shooting

By Hindustan times press :

Encyclopedia of Shikar
Hunting with horse and spear

COl. Kesri SIngh was a close associate of HH Shri Brijraj Singh of Kota as well and the Maharaja of Alwar, where Sariska is situated today and this group went on many expeditions together for a period of over 40 years till it all came to an end in 1975.


The Asian Lion used to roam over the Indian Subcontinent from Punjab to Bengal and down south till Karnataka.

About 12,000 years ago when the Siberian Tiger made its migration southwards through Kazakistan to India, because of Superior body strenght, agility, cunning and ability to adapt to habitat it gradually drove the Lion away further and further southwards.

At that time and to some extent even today, a forest migration corridor existed from Punjab to Assam, westwards to Rajasthan, and from Assam to Bengal Orissa, Andhra Pradesh, Central India down to Karnataka and Kerela.

Between Rajasthan anf Gujrat ( Junagarh ) there is an arid desert corridor of the Thar with only scanty bushes and little water which the Tiger did not like to cross. Neither did it favour the Runn of Kutch and Saurashtra.

This is the reason why the Lion got driven and confined to this Corridor and the Tiger established its territory every where else.

The Tiger likes water. It swims in the water twice a day, once in the mid morning and later in the afternoon, also after it feeds on its kill at about 7 PM it goes to a water source to drink at about 7.30 to 8 PM, ( for winter months reduce 90 minutes from these timings ) and plety of water pools were not available in this land of Gir.

The Tiger hunts on its own and has great stealth skills.

The male Lion sits easy, the pride of two or three lionesses it has killl and wait till the lord comes and eats. Self help is best help thus the Tiger won.

The Leopards and Panthers, other predators never interfered with matters of the deep forest but operated on fringes killing black bucks, chinkara, small blue bulls, Langurs and stray dogs, ocassional domestic goats.