[SPARKled]

I visited Tadoba in Dec 2012, but it some how just did not live up to the extremely high expectations that I had with that trip considering how brilliant it had been in the summer of 2012 with respect to tiger sightings. Yes I did spot the tiger twice but each time it was nothing to write home about. I am a keen birder and except for the usual tree-pies, open billed storks, bee eaters and rollers nothing spectacular.

Anyway I thought of going in the summer to try my luck again and I was immediately proclaimed mad for daring to go there in May with temperatures touching 50 degrees Celcius.

We were all excited about the trip, when just 2 days before the journey we were called by the resort owner to be informed that the safaris had not been booked and there was no chance of any bookings whatsoever. This was hugely disappointing and disheartening and after a few call here and there, we were able to secure 3 safaris through some 'jugaad'.

Anyway after a bad night's sleep to catch the 6:40 AM Indigo flight from Mumbai, we reached Nagpur at around 8 AM to be picked up by a hired Innova that took us to Tadoba. Instead of going from Chandrapur, we took a short cut through Shegaon that landed us straight to Moharli gate where our resort was situated. We quickly went to the gate after checking in to the resort, to check the status of our safaris. We were still tensed about the fate of our safaris and our joys knew no bounds when we learnt that 4 safaris had been booked for us and we needed to be there at 2:30 PM to go to our first safari.

That was easily the best news of the day and after a quick lunch we were all packed in a gypsy to go inside at 2:30 PM. We braved the sun and the heat and waited impatiently to get inside at 3:00 PM

On entering we immediately took the Telia right turn, and lo the first animal sighted was a tiger, a Telia sub adult sprawled on the ground under some bamboo thicket. She was hardly 10 feet away and in spite of the din created by the gypsys and the tourists, she was fast asleep with her back towards us. We waited for few minutes and proceeded to go ahead. We crossed Telia and were soon on the road where we sighted a herd of bison near the Jamum Jhora entry. A few photos later we were on our way to Tadoba lake. Saw Chital and Sambhar here in good numbers and shot a few photos of some birds like Darter, Oriental Honey Buzzard and a Crested Serpent Eagle. There were a good number of White Eyed Buzzards here. We then returned to the Telia region near the end of the safari and our tigress was still sleeping only a bit further inside now. So the first day had been quite productive and we went and tucked in to our beds after an early dinner in anticipation of the next day's safari.

Day 2 saw us back at 5:30 AM at the gate and we once again sped into the park sharp at 6 and took the right turn to Telia. Sighted a Changeable Hawk Eagle and soon we were at the Telia dam. Immediately within a minute of reaching there, one the Telia tigresses came down the embankment and started going to the forest along the banks of the lake. Her sister was sitting a few hundred feet away from here on the rocky bank. We spent about an hour and on seeing no movement here we decided to explore the rest of the park only to return back to find the huge Waghdoh male in the water along with his daughter. The Wagdoh male is one of the biggest tigers in India right now and sitting next to him, his fully grown sub adult daughter looked like a cub.

They were entirely in water with no intention of moving anywhere in the strong heat and soon it was time to go back. We were now waiting for the afternoon safari.


The afternoon safari was here, and the big male was still in the water with no sign of movement at all. We then tried the Jamun Bodi area and finally headed to Tadoba lake where the extremely pretty Pandherpauni female was lying behind a tree and there was a huge line of gypsys to get a glimpse of her. all this commotion probably disturbed her and she moved out of her cover and settled down at the river at the banks of the lake to give some good photo ops. That's it, this was a great sighting indeed and with our hearts fully satiated we went back to the resort in the evening.

The next morning again found us at Telia and we had the Telia sub adult on the banks of the lake but this time on our side of the lake. She stayed there for about 15-20 minutes and all the gypsys left and ours was one of the only 3 left behind. She then got up and started walking towards us to give some more good photo ops and disappeared inside the forest.

We continued to circle the Telia region in a hope to see more, but frankly were more than satisfied. After a quick breakfast and a nap later, we started back to Nagpur to catch our Indigo flight back to Mumbai.

Lots of birds were also sighted like Sirkeer Malkoha, Open billed storks, Black ibis, Black headsed Ibis, Whistling ducks, Flame-backs, Indian Pitta, Jungle Bush quails, Brahminy starlings, Rose ringed parakeets, Black and White bellied Drongos, Collared and spotted doves, Yellow footed green pigeons, Indian Grey Hornbill, Egrets etc..


Tadoba had indeed fulfilled our wishes and now I am already planning my next trip to Tadoba.

[xoom]

We were at Tadoba too last week, and looks like our sightings pretty much involved the same set of tigers! Great place indeed!

[Dodge_Viper]

Nice sharp and crisp photos Sparkled. But just 10 photos in the opening post? More and more pictures please .

OT:Recently there was news in Loksatta newspaper about the sad state of tigers in Tadoba due to excessive public interference. People force Gypsy drivers and guides to show tigers anyhow, sometimes even by paying bribes. These gypsy guys then take vehicles into roads which are closed to public, breaking all possible rules.

Source: http://www.loksatta.com/maharashtra-...usiasm-109438/

[heman_369]

Superb Pics. We need more of them. Sad to read the Loksatta Article. I thinks the parks in MP like Kanha and Bandavgadh are better managed.

[sukhoi30]

Really great pictures SPARKled. I had been to Tadoba last year and we had 5 safaris booked. We were fortunate enough to have sighted tigers in each of the safari.
Last week we went to Kanha and Pench but could sight tigers only in two out of 5 safaris. In pench, we were assured of sighting a tiger as the past 5 - 6 days there were a family of tigers (a tigress and three cubs) at the place we went. But on that day, the guide told us that there was a VIP visit and the VIP (and their kin prossibly) got down from the vehicle (to photograph) which scared away the tigers. Infact, to make sure that the VIP get to see the tigers, there were forest guards all around the park to see and report where exactly a tiger could be found.
Normally, a tiger is not scared or disturbed by Gypsies or vehicles unless you get too close for its comfort. But, it gets disturbed/scared easily and tends to run away at the sight of men on foot. This is what happened with our safari ... Due to the VIP visit, we could not see any tiger at Pench.
It is rather easy to see tigers at Tadoba as there are vast open plains and grassy lands. Its a bit difficult in Kanha as the vegetation is really thick. In Pench we found more varieties of birds than animals. Photos are in post processing, I will upload them soon.

[SPARKled]

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

Nice sharp and crisp photos Sparkled. But just 10 photos in the opening post? More and more pictures please .

OT:Recently there was news in Loksatta newspaper about the sad state of tigers in Tadoba due to excessive public interference. People force Gypsy drivers and guides to show tigers anyhow, sometimes even by paying bribes. These gypsy guys then take vehicles into roads which are closed to public, breaking all possible rules.

Source: http://www.loksatta.com/maharashtra-...usiasm-109438/

Originally Posted by heman_369

Superb Pics. We need more of them. Sad to read the Loksatta Article. I thinks the parks in MP like Kanha and Bandavgadh are better managed.

Originally Posted by sukhoi30

Really great pictures SPARKled. I had been to Tadoba last year and we had 5 safaris booked. We were fortunate enough to have sighted tigers in each of the safari.
Last week we went to Kanha and Pench but could sight tigers only in two out of 5 safaris. In pench, we were assured of sighting a tiger as the past 5 - 6 days there were a family of tigers (a tigress and three cubs) at the place we went. But on that day, the guide told us that there was a VIP visit and the VIP (and their kin prossibly) got down from the vehicle (to photograph) which scared away the tigers. Infact, to make sure that the VIP get to see the tigers, there were forest guards all around the park to see and report where exactly a tiger could be found.
Normally, a tiger is not scared or disturbed by Gypsies or vehicles unless you get too close for its comfort. But, it gets disturbed/scared easily and tends to run away at the sight of men on foot. This is what happened with our safari ... Due to the VIP visit, we could not see any tiger at Pench.
It is rather easy to see tigers at Tadoba as there are vast open plains and grassy lands. Its a bit difficult in Kanha as the vegetation is really thick. In Pench we found more varieties of birds than animals. Photos are in post processing, I will upload them soon.

This is unfortunately a problem affecting all parks, but I have noticed this problem to be particularly severe in Tadoba. The last time I went the officials wanted to close Telia coz the CM of Maharashtra was visiting. But all the safari paying public united and ensured that this does not happen. But the sheer number of support staff and police officials caused such a such din that no one had any sighting that day. But obvioulsy the elephants were sent out to corner and flush the tigers out for the CM.

We had an incident of a tigress crushed under a gypsy due to an over enthusiastic VIP last year in Bandhavgarh and I have seen VIPs in Fortuners at Dhikala in Corbett. This time too some 'Secretary' sahib came from the other side of the Telia route and got down from his official gaadi to have a look at Waghdoh male. I was tempted to take a photo and post it but did not.

When I was in Pench 2 years back and the tiger show was on, the Seoni police chief had the first right of way to see these animals and they stayed there for so long that by the time the normal public were allowed the tigers had disappeared.

So yes lots of rules are being flouted especially by these Babus and Sahibs and I have generally see the normal safari paying public to be a lot better behaved and rule abiding than these govt and elected free mongers who consider these jungles as their own 'Baap ka maal'.

[Maverick5490]

Beautiful pictures Sparkled, but need more please!! Should have contacted you earlier for a joint trip, hopefully it will happen someday!

[sach.sri]

Nice start to the TL with great pictures. I agree on the safari booking situation in Tadoba. It is indeed not optimum, with no online bookings available, no way to know whether you will get one or not and so it give rise to the "jugaads"

Anyways - all well that ends well...

I missed the tigers in water in the last pic once and was wondering why you have uploaded a pic with only water - maybe to show the lake but then on looking closer - saw the tigers

Very interested in the birds that you sighted as well - pls do post their pics also.

Can you pls share the cost details:
Which resort did you stay in and how much was the tariff - and how much did the Innova take for pick up and drop from Nagpur?

Waiting for the next batch of pictures. Thanks for sharing.

[sukhoi30]

Originally Posted by SPARKled

This is unfortunately a problem affecting all parks, but I have noticed this problem to be particularly severe in Tadoba. The last time I went the officials wanted to close Telia coz the CM of Maharashtra was visiting. But all the safari paying public united and ensured that this does not happen. But the sheer number of support staff and police officials caused such a such din that no one had any sighting that day. But obvioulsy the elephants were sent out to corner and flush the tigers out for the CM.

We had an incident of a tigress crushed under a gypsy due to an over enthusiastic VIP last year in Bandhavgarh and I have seen VIPs in Fortuners at Dhikala in Corbett. This time too some 'Secretary' sahib came from the other side of the Telia route and got down from his official gaadi to have a look at Waghdoh male. I was tempted to take a photo and post it but did not.

When I was in Pench 2 years back and the tiger show was on, the Seoni police chief had the first right of way to see these animals and they stayed there for so long that by the time the normal public were allowed the tigers had disappeared.

So yes lots of rules are being flouted especially by these Babus and Sahibs and I have generally see the normal safari paying public to be a lot better behaved and rule abiding than these govt and elected free mongers who consider these jungles as their own 'Baap ka maal'.

You should have taken a photo and posted it. I would have done that. Probably a VIP should be tied to a tree overnight which should teach a lesson on what a real jungle is!!! Jokes apart, someone should stop this trend ... I guess, the supreme court did well to stop these safaris in the buffer zone to ease the pressure on wildlife. But due to severe criticism, it was revoked to an extent. Of course this would have negatively impacted the tiger population as all the local people employed as guides/driver etc. could resort to poaching.
While in Pench we were discussing about this same issue and one of us suggested that we should make the safari really expensive, but then the general public will stop visiting and again the locals will bear the brunt. Another way is to have different timings for VIPS only and of course they should never flout the rule of getting down from the vehicle anytime inside the vehicle.

[SPARKled]

Originally Posted by Maverick5490

Beautiful pictures Sparkled, but need more please!! Should have contacted you earlier for a joint trip, hopefully it will happen someday!

Yes we have to do a joint trip the next time. Heard that you are unable to go the Kanha as well. But I will surely let you know when I go the next time.

Originally Posted by sach.sri

Nice start to the TL with great pictures. I agree on the safari booking situation in Tadoba. It is indeed not optimum, with no online bookings available, no way to know whether you will get one or not and so it give rise to the "jugaads"

Anyways - all well that ends well...

I missed the tigers in water in the last pic once and was wondering why you have uploaded a pic with only water - maybe to show the lake but then on looking closer - saw the tigers

Very interested in the birds that you sighted as well - pls do post their pics also.

Can you pls share the cost details:
Which resort did you stay in and how much was the tariff - and how much did the Innova take for pick up and drop from Nagpur?

Waiting for the next batch of pictures. Thanks for sharing.

The tigers in the water was just to show the size difference between the huge Waghdoh male and his almost fully grown daughter.

I stayed in Royal Tiger Resort which is very near to the Moharli gate. The room tariffs are around 3600 for all meals and AC room per day. Safaris are another 3000.
I believe its the best place to stay near Moharli but there are better options as far as luxury goes near Kolara gate. Svasara is one that come to mind immediately. But I will recommend that you double and triple check your safaris bookings to avoid being disappointed.

You can easily hire cars from Nagpur or if you prefer trains, there are trains right upto Chandrapur and its only Rs 1000 to get to Tadoba in a Innova/Tavera. I paid around 2750 per day for my Innova from Nagpur.

[nilanjanray]

Great photos! Looking forward to seeing more. What gear were you using?

OT: I might be driving down to Tadoba and/or Kanha in early June. Anyone there around that time, let me know.

P.S. travelogue was a bit short

[SPARKled]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

Great photos! Looking forward to seeing more. What gear were you using?

OT: I might be driving down to Tadoba and/or Kanha in early June. Anyone there around that time, let me know.


P.S. travelogue was a bit short

I use an old Nikon D50 with a 300 F4. I will be in Kanha in the first week of June for 2 safaris. BTW the reason why the travelogue is so short is because I am a very lazy writer

Originally Posted by sukhoi30

You should have taken a photo and posted it. I would have done that. Probably a VIP should be tied to a tree overnight which should teach a lesson on what a real jungle is!!! Jokes apart, someone should stop this trend ... I guess, the supreme court did well to stop these safaris in the buffer zone to ease the pressure on wildlife. But due to severe criticism, it was revoked to an extent. Of course this would have negatively impacted the tiger population as all the local people employed as guides/driver etc. could resort to poaching.
While in Pench we were discussing about this same issue and one of us suggested that we should make the safari really expensive, but then the general public will stop visiting and again the locals will bear the brunt. Another way is to have different timings for VIPS only and of course they should never flout the rule of getting down from the vehicle anytime inside the vehicle.

Actually a lot of the supreme court recommendations have already been imposed. Such as opening only 20% of the core zone to tourism and this is actually happening in Tadoba. So some of the more productive tiger sighting zones such as Kolsa, the home of the super handsome Shivaji, is now closed to tourists. However with no tourism there is also no news of the state of the animals in these parts which could be a bad news as cover ups of fatalities can be easily done and giving a free hand to corrupt forest officials to do whatever they want.

Safaris have any way become very expensive, however it is so only for for us, the stupid law abiding, tax paying and safari fees paying citizens. I doubt if any of these so called VIPs pay anything to get in. Different timings are not possible else we would have some one or the other looking for tigers the entire day and these poor creatures will have no respite which they get between 10 AM to 3:00 PM.

[alto99]

I too was in Tadoba in last week of April. We drove from Pune and had booked only 1 safari. We were lucky to sight four tiger siblings (18 month old) all of them together for about 30 mins at this point : http://goo.gl/maps/KuwcF

[raghunandanj]

Hi all, We're planning to visit Tadoba in June and have booked MTDC at Moharli Gate. However, we are having difficulties reaching to the hotel or safari organizer. can anyone help with contact information on how we can pre-book safaris from Moharli ? Any useful information would be helpful....

[SPARKled]

Originally Posted by raghunandanj

Hi all, We're planning to visit Tadoba in June and have booked MTDC at Moharli Gate. However, we are having difficulties reaching to the hotel or safari organizer. can anyone help with contact information on how we can pre-book safaris from Moharli ? Any useful information would be helpful....

Try to contact the local MTDC office to get the status of your safaris. Tadoba is having a huge rush as of now so its better to be safe than sorry.