[hummer]

We will never get bored of revisiting few places. Coorg is one such place where it invites and offers fresh and pleasant experiences every time. We got a homestay contact from a friend and fixed the schedule. Homestay owner requested us to reach the place BEFORE SUNSET so that we don’t get missed out in the estates roads in DARK. Three of us with family and kids visited this home stay little inside the coffee estate and it was a wonderful and unforgettable experience.

Our drives were 3 cars - Verna, Vento and Wagon-R, carrying 2 adults + 2 kids in each vehicle. I started from Bannerghatta road at 5am in my Dynasty Red Verna, caught up with Silver Vento at 5:15am near Meenakshi temple. Travelled via NICE road and exited at Mysore road. We waited for the WagonR for a while and then came the silver Wagon. We continued our journey non-stop to Mysore. We split for breakfast of their choices. I am die-hard fan of Mylari Dosa, it is a must visit whenever I go to Mysore. Few of us had many dosas at Mylari’s followed by hot coffee. Other team went to Siddartha nearby Mylari's. Finally all were recharged again to drive for another 2-3 hours.

My Dynasty Red Verna SX ABS


For those of you who don’t know Mylari Dosa Hotel, it is near to Mysore Bus Stand, on the way to Chamundi Temple. His dosas are special (patented?) with secret recipe from their ancestors. There are two Mylari hotels opposite to each other, both claiming to be “THE ORIGINAL MYLARI HOTEL”, both are equally ok, though taste has come down recently. Don’t expect a great ambiance, it is a very small joint, looking from outside, some may not even want to get in. But the taste lies in the Dosa. I completed my PG at Mysore and Mylari fan since then

We started driving again, hit the Hunsur road towards Coorg. Stopped at Periyapatna for a coffee break. As we entered into the Coorg region, we could feel the difference in weather and architecture of the houses. We passed thru Madikeri town and went down towards Thalakaveri, it is the birth place of Kavery river. We reached Thalakaveri at around 12pm. Big rush was there to park the car, another long queue to take thirtha at the Kavery Ugamasthana. Then we walked up all the way to the top of Bhamhagiri hill, took some snaps and came down to main street to have some snacks and ice creams.

At the entrance of Thalakaveri:




Climbing Bhamhagiri with full energy:


On top of the world:


After the refreshments, we came down to Bhagamandala, we had to rush to the temple so that we don’t miss out the timely darshan and also prasadam. After having the darshan and tasty prasadam, we had few coconuts drinks, fruit juices with special halva and packed variety of halvas to home.

Kinds wanted to get into the river at Bhagamandala, locals warned us about glass bottle pieces in the water thrown by miscreants. However kids were not in a position to listen, they had a wonderful time in water without getting hurt, we had hard time to pull them out of the water.

They could not resist:


They even came prepared:


Next visit directly to Raja Seat in Madikeri town. Nothing very special here, it has a small train, garden, sun set view point. More than all these we enjoyed eating roasted peanuts, bhelpuri with hot coffee on the street next to Raja Seat!

Waiting for the vintage train:


Peanuts meeting at sunset:


Hardest part comes now, as we forgot homestay owner’s message to reach there before sunset . We were enjoying misty sunset at Raja Seat with snacks and coffee. Called up the owner with a sorry tone, he gave directions with warning about road condition. Directions had 8 points where we could get into wrong direction unless we are alert. Journey started as if we were on an expedition. It is the road which connects to Madikeri town with Dubare elephant camp vis Maragodu village road. After some distance there was absolutely no road, it was dark, no traffic, no lights and no one to ask for directions. I think people that side go to bed early, roads were completely deserted except few guys in front of arrack shops in villages. Our only hope was homestay owner Mr.Poovaiah. We were in touch with him and luckily we didn’t have signal issues. Finally at 8pm we arrived at a point where we had to enter inside the Swastha Homestay Estate to reach the bungalow. We could see high grown grass in the middle of the road, we were not sure if it was only grass or some hard land which could damage our bottoms. I was the first to try in Verna, it was soft brush feel at the bottom, so no problems till the home. Gave signal to other two cars to come in. There we were in front of the old bungalow with 4 BHK in the middle of coffee estate with dim lights. We could see the hill range starting was right behind the bungalow.

We were welcomed by caretaker who was full with toddy, still no communication gaps. Mr.Poovaiah’s home was 4-5 kms away, he told us to occupy the rooms and get fresh, he would get dinner for us in 30 minutes. We all occupied rooms, got freshen up, watched TV few minutes, came and sat out.

There came a silver Duster with dinner boxes. Mr.Poovaiah with his wife came and greeted all of us. We spoke for a while. They left us to have dinner. Food was sooooo tasty so that nothing was left. Some kids were so tired they slept without having food. We didn’t show to anyone that we were more than happy to finish their part as well. We had a sound sleep that night as we were too tired.

Next day morning, we got up bit early and came out. Oh man what a sight. It was like nature was wearing green saree, we could see only green as far as eye sight could go. Slowly everyone got up. We prepared coffee ourselves and came out with big mugs.

We walked inside the paddy fields, went for fishing though didn’t get any, fine lunch came on time. Spent second half with cycling, badminton, football, reading etc. We don’t know how we passed the day.

Dinner came with yummy tasting homemade fruit wine , never tasted something like that before. That II night was eventful, when got into the house, caretaker’s face had some scratches. He told about a wild cat which keeps coming for milk had attacked him on face. Scarier part was he was not sure if it went out or still inside. Kids were scared, we searched each room and ensured atleast rooms are free form wild cat.

Enjoying early morning coffee:


Posing one for camera in front of well:


Gloomy mood:


Next day we visited Dubare Elephant Camp. It is about an hour drive from homestay. Got into water and played for sometime though it was dangerous with slippery rocks underneath, we crossed the river without boat. We had to wait till evening to see the elephants. Homestay place was dragging us back so all decided to return without seeing elephants.

At Dubare Inn:


That night owner arranged for Camp Fire with homemade fruit wine with great tasting snacks, we played around camp fire place, we discovered some great singers and dancers among us. It was a great experience and highlight of the trip. Went to bed after a late night dinner.
Time came to say goodbye, with heavy heart, we bid adieu to one of simple yet wonderful homestays in Coorg. While returning few stretches of the road were very bad, Wagon-R was least impacted.

Next point was Cavery Nisargadhama. We spent couple of hours there after a light lunch.

On rope bridge:


Taming the tiger:


Line up for view point:


Guys on swing pushed by gals:


Ladies view from the top of view point:


One more line up for elephant ride:


On the elephant - bit scared of that bumpy ride:


Later visited Tibetian camp and golden temple on the way. We had food in one of the Chinese looking restaurants and started driving towards Bangalore.

Few pictures of Golden Temple:





Returned to Bangalore with a coffee stop at Kamath Lokaruchi near Bidadi. We liked this homestay at Coorg place primarily for the privacy it offers, entire bungalow was ours, great food, great warmth, in the midst of beautiful serene estate and much much away from city.

Thanks dear for safe trip as on many occassions:


We will go to the same place once again, and that time it would be directly to homestay, spend all time there and return directly to Bangalore. Thanks to Mr.Poovaiah and his family for the hospitality, food and importantly fruit wine.

[Gokrish]

Hi Hummer!

A very nice and precise travelogue with clear pictures which bring out the warmth and camaraderie of these families. Yes. Madikeri and Canara are totally different places altogether during monsoon and your photographs brought their greenery to the fore. You guys have beautiful, naughty but well behaved kids. Madikeri is next in my agenda and would like to do this trip somewhere in Oct-Nov 13. I would like to drive down from Chennai. Please provide me with the address and driving directions to this home stay from madikeri, if possible, as we are really sick of regular time share accommodation and other hotel stays.

[venkatt1800]

Nice travelogue, Hummer. Since you mentioned the amazing locale of the homestay, it would have been nice if you had added some more pictures of Swastha Homestay and its surroundings. Can u please share with us the tariffs and booking details of the homestay?

[kannan666]

Very well documented travelogue Hummer, Coorg never ceases to delight ! Like Venkat above has said, please do share with us some more details regarding the homestay

[hummer]

Thanks for the replies. Currently I am at my new home in Shimoga, continuous rains have made this place also full of greenery. Planning to visit Jog Falls very soon.

Attached few more pictures of homestay Swastha
(Kindly bear the quality of pictures):











It is not a commercial homestay, it doesn't have a website or publicity. No swimming pool (small waterfall is there nearby), no restaurants (fully equipped kitchen available), no front desk, sometimes no power as well.

It is a bungalow with 3-4 bedrooms. I don't recommend this for single families as can be boring and could impact privacy. It would be great if you and your companions can occupy the entire bungalow. It would be Rs.1000/person per night including food.

You can speak directly to Mr.Poovaiah 9449292652, he is very cordial and accommodative.

[pradyblr]

Hello Hummer,
A beautifully crafted travelogue with just the right details.
This thread, I am sure will soon become a planning reference to future coorgers like me!!

[Vihari]

Originally Posted by hummer

I am die-hard fan of Mylari Dosa, it is a must visit whenever I go to Mysore.
For those of you who don’t know Mylari Dosa Hotel, it is near to Mysore Bus Stand, on the way to Chamundi Temple.

Thank you for this information. Since you have stayed in Mysore, you could tell about this Dosa. Such little nitty gritty things about a particular place are real important for travellers.

Originally Posted by hummer

It would be Rs.1000/person per night including food.

You can speak directly to Mr.Poovaiah 9449292652, he is very cordial and accommodative.

So, is it that you have paid Rs.6000/- for your group for one day including the food?
What is the charge for children, say of 10-11 years of age?

- Sai

[Gokrish]

Hi Hummer!

Is it advisable to take a de-tour to visit Nagarhole while going to Coorg? How long does it take to reach Coorg from Mysore and if I were to take a de-tour as said above, how much more time does that take?

[princezahed]

Originally Posted by Gokrish

Hi Hummer!

Is it advisable to take a de-tour to visit Nagarhole while going to Coorg? How long does it take to reach Coorg from Mysore and if I were to take a de-tour as said above, how much more time does that take?

Its not worth taking a detour to visit nagarhole. Its a good 95kms from Madikeri town and the roads are not in good shape. Mysore to Madikeri town is about 120kms and can take 2.5-3 hours depending on your speed. The road is generally empty without heavy traffic.

[hummer]

Originally Posted by Vihari

Thank you for this information. Since you have stayed in Mysore, you could tell about this Dosa. Such little nitty gritty things about a particular place are real important for travellers.



So, is it that you have paid Rs.6000/- for your group for one day including the food?
What is the charge for children, say of 10-11 years of age?

- Sai

Reg. Mylari Dosa, it is not like regular masala or plain dosas that we get in all hotels. It is a small crisp dosa with saagu and coconut chutny. Dosa disolves in mouth like butter. He will keep serving until you say STOP. You can easily eat 3-4 dosas with unlimited saagu and coconut chutny keeps coming. You should go about 8am to feel the freshness.

All kids in our group were under 10 years, so we paid Rs.1000/adult + little extra combined from all kids. They may charge some amount for kids > 10 years of age.

Originally Posted by Gokrish

Hi Hummer!

Is it advisable to take a de-tour to visit Nagarhole while going to Coorg? How long does it take to reach Coorg from Mysore and if I were to take a de-tour as said above, how much more time does that take?

Gokrish, I agree with princezahed. However Nagarahole National Park is a great place worth visiting if you can spend 1 full day. It is in down south of Coorg. You can goto Nagarahole via Madikeri town or directly from Hunsur without coming to Madikeri. I am not aware of present road condition to Nagarahole, but road is excellent till Madikeri town.