[Judemayne]

After two disappointments/aborted long drives we at last completed the drive of our lifetime-Bangalore to Bhutan with Sikkim thrown in for good measure and a wedding of former army colleague’s son at Kolkata.
The initial Bhutan trip was planned to take place in end Feb with the drive ending in mid Mar so as to avoid the heat en-route-it was not to be as a administrative problem concerning home had cropped up and by the time it was addressed the sun was bathing AP, Odisha & Bengal in its full fury-called it off.
Then planned on a drive to Leh via Amritsar, the wife’s hometown, car packed and left on 15 Aug. Just short of Malegaon, NH 3, second day, urgent call from Bangalore that there was a medical emergency, turned back and drove till we reached Manipal Hospital the next day. This left us totally despondent and shelved all plans for a drive for the year.

Then on 03 Nov we suddenly decided that the weather had cooled, Phailin destruction was past and Bhutan was beckoning. Informed the kids-that we were going to give myself a belated 60th birthday gift with a long drive-they okayed it and gave us their “blessings”.

With advice from Sheel, Vikram and other greats of BHP that use the Bolpur, Dumka, Bhagalpur,Purnia route to Siliguri decided to follow suit. Started our adventure on 07 Nov.

Brief of the Journey:-

Dates:- 07 Nov to 25 Nov (19 days)
Vehicle:- Ritz LXI.
Travelers’:- wife and self.
Drivers-both but this time the wife could not drive at all for medical reasons in her ankle.
Total Distance, to & fro-6305.4 Kms
Cost of Petrol:-Rs 33200. Cheapest at Bhutan Rs/Nu 68, Odisha at Rs 70.55 and costliest being Bangalore at Rs 78.84
Toll paid to & fro-Rs 2674.
Vehicle Issues:- One puncture at Cuttack on the way back. Brake pads changed at Gangtok at Entel Motors-lackadaisical attitude-blur on the Maruti Service reputation. Car serviced for 50000 kms at Jyote Motors Bhubeneswar-great service place.

[Judemayne]

Route Outwards to Bhutan with stops:-
Thimphu-reached on 12 Nov at 1845 hrs (6th day) after covering a distance of 2971.4 kms from Bangalore to Thimphu.

07 Nov, Anticipated stop at Rajahmundry but was caught in a Rasta Roko at Srikalhasti for over three hours-that too at two place-lost three hours-was advised, by the Cops, not to proceed ahead, as more trouble could be expected-persevered and reached Eluru checked into the first hotel we came across , Surya Residency, for the night. No issues en route except millions of diversion right from Kavali till Vijaywada. Crossing the towns of Vijaywada & Vizagapatnam was akin to driving in K R Puram in peak hours, both towns took over an hour to cross. Wanted to try the Ankapelle bypass but decided agains itt at the last moment when spotted the lines of trucks being diverted on to that route. Anyone tried this bypass ever??

08 Nov-Left by 0545 hrs with a planned halt at Bhubeneswar-

09 Nov:- Planned halt at Chandipur Beach, Balasore. This was a good decision, firstly-this is one fantastic beach with the sea receding, 4-5 kms twice a day every day. The second being a short drive so to rest after two longish ones of over 750 each. Stayed at Sagar Darshan, run by the DRDO and was given a beautiful suite overlooking the sea. Loved walking about 3 kms into the sea (at low tide) and watched the fishermen set the traps and nets. Excellent roads from Bhub to Balasore and even did not encounter too many issues crossing Cuttack (My home town). Had the juiciest of rasagolas at Pahala between Bhubeneswar and Cuttack. Secondly you cannot starve on this route with the No. of eating places. We lunched at Sagar Darshan, Chandipur. The turn off for Balasore at the flyover just before Staff Hotel. After Vijaywada all diversions had ended and made good time on NH 5/AH 45.

[Judemayne]

10 Nov:- No planned halt-but on advice of fellow BHPians was advised to stay either at Bardhaman or Bolpur. As we did good time we stayed at the “Ashirwad” hotel in the centre of Bolpur. Being a Sunday Shantinekatan was closed but the handicraft market was opened so this was the start of the first shopping spree of the lady!!! Many more drains on the wallet followed.
The road from Balasore NH was single lane for the most part of the journey with 4 lane reliefs in between-took the Kharagpur Bypass and got onto NH 60-4 laned all the way till we reached the Bardhman Expressway. This part of the Highway was well signposted. The turn off for Bolpur is well marked and the road, though single laned, was well surfaced. The railway crossing just short rattled the Ritz a bit.
11 Nov:-Bolpur to Siliguri-Via Bhagalpur-hands are still shaking from the experience. Right up to Dumka great but not very good roads. The turn off for Masanjore after Suiri and just before Mohammad bazaar is pretty dicy, in the sense there is no signpost and the said road is narrow. Sixth sense and our Tab kicked in and drove back a km to take this road. The first six kms on this MDR is bad with more potholes then road but once in Jharkhand the surface is smooth. What really irked us were gangs of thugs, on both sides of the border, stopping all yellow board and trucks and extorting money. Spotted the same activity short of Islampur??

It took one hour to cross Bhagalopur-cannot express in words our experience-we called it the “Nightmare” of our drive. Reached Siliguri by 5 pm and stayed at the Aviation Mess at Sevoke Road. The surface of the Vikramshilasetu was like moon surface. Bhagalpur threw everything at you to test your driving skills-humans, dogs, cattle, rickshaws, autos, errant cars, bad roads and two wheelers to ensure your vehicles comes out with “battle scars”

12 Nov-Sevoke to Jaigon/Phuentsholling-it was one great ride on well tarmac roads all the way till Jaigaon. Was touching speeds in excess of 100 at certain places. Be careful of the “car swallowing” potholes just before Binaguri. Reached Phuentsholling by 1015 am and straight a way went to get the Entry Permit:-

Process for Entry and Vehicle Permit:-

a) Please collect the Form from the guy at the foot of the staircase going to the first floor-we and many others had to come down to collect it.
b) Fill and hand over to the Gent at counter No 3 along with correct identification –which is only the passport or the Voter ID-no driving license etc will suffice. Have a photocopy, for all ready.
c) He will check and ask you to sit on the chair while he clicks your picture-over in 10 minutes.
d) Waited for two hours for the Entry permit.

Vehicle Permit:-one has to go to the RSA office which is about 1.5 to 2 kms away across the bridge. It was closed for lunch-lunch hours, Bhutan time-1100 hrs to 1400 hrs (ours 1030 to 1330 hrs).
a) Here again –please do not wait for the window (3rd Floor) Counters 2, 3 & 5, to open-I did and lost 15 minutes-on advice of another Indian I walked into the office and asked for instructions-a Form will be filled with your and vehicle details and attach photocopies of your RC, PUC, Entry Permit and Driving license. Please get photocopies of the Entry Permit at the main bazaar and not here-they charge Rs 5 per copy.
b) Pay Rs 170/Nu for the permit. All procedures over and took a decision to start at that time-1415 hrs

[Judemayne]

Reached Thimphu at 1845 hrs and drove straight to IMTRAT to be welcomed to a huge suite with two massive heaters-required.

Road from our start point at Phuentsholling was not well marked initially so had to ask-the last 50-60 kms to Thimphu is really broad so one can make up time lost on the narrow stretches. It was one great ride with a well deserved coffee and snack break at the Dantak Canteen, midway.

Thimphu-gorgeous city-as already well described by other BHPians will only state that the drive was well worth it. Must mention here that we accosted much disciplined traffic with sign posted speed limit of 50 kmph-speed guns are deployed to apprehend defaulters.

Other than visiting the usual tourist spots in and around we went on a Food tour-and dined only on Bhutanese Cuisine. To name a few of the dishes we tasted:-
a) Ema Datshi
b) Jasha maru
c) Kewa datshi
d) Kewa Phagsha
e) Millet Pancakes
f) Butter Tea-wow –full of flavors.
g) Bhutanese Red rice-not thick like the one you get in Kerala. Heard its Rs `120 a kg??
h) Pumpkin Soup.

Just a point in passing the Bhutanese love thre "Jalebi" they call it "Julabi"??? there used to be long lines outside the IMTRAT Canteen Thimphu to purchase steaming hot Jal;ebies!!

15 Nov –drove to Paro-38 kms of great roads, beautiful scenery and rivers and brooks rumbling by. Paro appears to be a place where time has stopped-houses in true Bhutanese architecture. Visited Drugyel Fort-reminded us of some of the Forts as seen during our drive in Scotland last year. Next stop the Tiger Trial and Tiger’s Nest-could not make it to the top because of the wife’s ankle but climbed a little. If going to Paro after Thimphu please do you’re shopping from the hawkers at the start of the Tiger’s trial-the wares are 20-25% less here.

Stayed at IMTRAT Mess overlooking the Paro airport-fantastic place. Forgot to mention that my car was frozen over, on all nights in Bhutan-more so at Paro-had to wash the screen with hot water to remove the icicles.
Cut short our stay at Paro by a day as got info that my regimental officers son’s wedding was on 21 Nov and had to drive to Gangtok too. We did what we had to do at Paro-seen the Tiger trial, visited Drugyel Fort and ate in a traditional Bhutanese Restaurant.

Please place your permits in the glove compartment so that they are easily accessible to be shown at the various check points-two en route from Phuentsholling to Thimphu and one to Paro.

[Judemayne]

16 Nov halt at Binaguri –courtesy the Engineer Regiment -after lunch at Phuentsholling and further shopping–roads already described.

17 Nov early start from Binaguri crossed the Tiger/Coronation Bridge and then there were no roads for the next 10-15 kms-poor GREF battling it out with the Landslides. After that it was an okay road narrow at spots but one could maintain speeds of between 60-75 kmph. If you have the time please stop at the Black Dosa Point for some good South Indian Fare.
Reached Gangtok by 1000 hrs and Checked in at Meylong Hotel just 3 kms from MG Road. Crossed the Gurudwara and the wife paid her respects. Parking was not a problem adjacent to the Gurudwara as it was a Sunday and all shops were closed less MG Road. Places visited-MG Road, Monastery, Ropeway and two restaurants. The Castle-below the Butterfly on the approach to the Ropeway-is a nice Restaurant to dine at. Had dinner and the next day’s breakfast.

18 Nov-started at 1230 hrs as had to reach Sevoke only. All timings went for a six as we got caught in two major jams nearer Siliguri-reached at 1700 hrs.

19 Nov-started at 0545 hrs and a leisure drive out and missed the roads thrice that day:-

a) At Bagdogra instead of turning left, for NH 31 we carried on straight on NH 31 C, discovered our folly at Thakurganj and took the main road heading South to Islampur-lost time but travelled on village roads which was surprisingly pretty okay with roads going real bad in the village or town itself.
b) Second mistake at Zero Mile as the locals call it-near Tetri, I was overtaking a few trucks and did not spot the turn off to Vikramsetu and carried on till felt that something was wrong-checked the Tab and had to turn back lost about 45-60 minutes.
c) Third wrong-the turn off for Masanjore at Pattabari More-Thank the stars that this was immediately realized the moment we crossed-no loss of time as such.

Stopped at Bolpur for the night as it was already past 7 pm and in the East its dark by 5 pm. Stayed at the same Hotel Ashirwad.

20 Nov: - Left Bolpur before 6 am and did not take the right turn at Nawabhat More but went through Bradhman just to see the early morning sights. Reached Kolakat via Durgapur Expressway onto NH 6 and then caught the Kona Expressway crossing the Hooghly by the Vidyasagar setu on to AJC Bose road and entered Fort William and history. Checked in by 1030-fast drive sans traffic on this route.

22 Nov return journey-reached Cuttack and went down memory lane-Bali Jatra, Dahi bara at Tunamuna, Stewart School my Alma Mater!! Caught up with classmates. Lunch with friends and left for Bhubeneswar after suffering our first and only puncture of the trip.

23 Nov-gave the car to Jyote Motors for servicing as oil change was due.

24 Nov-stopped at Eluru at the same place but then dined at Aditya Hotel a better place with rooms of higher quality with more or less the same trariff.

25 Nov-started at 0450 hours and crossed Vijaywada in 30 minutes flat but then had to slow down to a crawl as fog settled in and visibility was hardly 50 yards. Stayed behind a bus for the next 40 minutes till the fog and diversions cleared made it to Bangalore by 1600 hrs. On the return trip the Toll Gates on the Mulbhagal to Hoskote route were carrying out practice runs which spells that Toll will start shortly.

Roads conditions:-
a) Bangalore to Naidupeta-varied from excellent to average-Mulbaghal great roads, Palmaner till Naidupeta varied from good to average but overall just no issues.
b) The diversions started from Kavali onwards right up to Vijaywada with some them becoming as close as 100 metres apart.
c) Crossing Vijaywada & Vizagpatnam eats into your timings-each took approx one hour to cross.
d) Road after Vijaywada is smooth with the rough surface from Eluru to Rajahmundry.
e) The NH in Odishahas been completed and bypassing all major towns which helped in gaining time.
f) Crossed the Odisha border and trucks in five-luckily. Not so lucky on the return trip got stuck both at Jaleswar and before Icchapuram because of haphazard parking of thousands of trucks.
g) It was real nice to see that the NH from Berhampur till Bhubeneswar portion is completed and could do this stretch in 2.5 hrs.
h) Road widening between Bhubeneswr and Cuttack going on but does not hamper your progress. Hope they complete the Flyovers at Bhub.
i) Balasore to Kharagpur mostly two laned with intermittent 4 lanes.
j) Kharagpur to Bardhman was a breeze with little or no traffic on the Kona and Durgapur Express.
k) Road to Bolpur was pretty good-well marked.
l) Bolpur to Suri went from good to bad at stretches with it deteriorating on approaching and leaving Suri.
m) As already staed the road collapses for 6 kms after the turn off to Dumka, from Suri, till the Jharkhand border.
n) Good roads in Jharkhand but slow down when you approach a bridge or culvert. Cannot understand as to why the approaches to Bridges and Culverts are broken up??
o) Total loss of road surface once you enter Bihar and cross the Vikramshilasetu.
p) Once the 4 lanes start it’s a great ride to Islampur and onto Siliguri.
q) The entire length of NH 31C has been resurfaced till Hashimara so the drive was a breeze. Beware of car sized potholes in and around Binaguri.
r) Phuentsholling to Thimphu and Paro well maintained road with an occasional sunk road because of land shifts or where a mountain stream has crosses.

Downers of the drive:-
a) Crossing Bhagalpur.
b) Lack of proper sign post at vital points
c) Dumping of garbage on NH between Rajahmundry and Eluru which is shameful.
d) Shameless gangs of thugs extorting money in the name of Religion??

[anandpadhye]

Lovely travelogue.
You drove from Bangalore to Bhutan, wow.
I would like t do that as well. Can you share the details around the permits and procedure to take own car to Bhutan?

[ampere]

More than the drive its the spirit of achieving the same! The wedding was just the reason you wanted ! Very nice log indeed.

[Judemayne]

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

Lovely travelogue.
You drove from Bangalore to Bhutan, wow.
I would like t do that as well. Can you share the details around the permits and procedure to take own car to Bhutan?

Dear Anand,

Had already given the procedure in the second post will repeat the same:-
Process for Entry and Vehicle Permit:-

a) Please collect the Form from the guy at the foot of the staircase going to the first floor-we and many others had to come down to collect it.
b) Fill and hand over to the Gent at counter No 3 along with correct identification –which is only the passport or the Voter ID-no driving license etc will suffice. Have a photocopy, for all ready.
c) He will check and ask you to sit on the chair while he clicks your picture-over in 10 minutes.
d) Waited for two hours for the Entry permit from trhe same counter.

Vehicle Permit:-one has to go to the RSA office which is about 1.5 to 2 kms away across the bridge. It was closed for lunch-lunch hours, Bhutan time-1100 hrs to 1400 hrs (ours 1030 to 1330 hrs).

a) Here again –please do not wait for the window (3rd Floor) Counters 2, 3 & 5, to open-I did and lost 15 minutes-on advice of another Indian I walked into the office and asked for instructions-a Form will be filled with your and vehicle details and attach photocopies of your RC, PUC, Entry Permit and Driving license. Please get photocopies of the Entry Permit at the main bazaar and not here-they charge Rs 5 per copy.
b) Pay Rs 170/Nu for the permit. All procedures over and took a decision to start at that time-1415 hrs

[Judemayne]

A few more pictures of our Epic trip:-

[Judemayne]

Just a point in passing - Maruti service proficiency varies from State to State. Entel Motors, authorised dealers of Maruti is pits. Their personnel only come in after 9 am and then, they have a tea break for 1/2 hr. They did not have the spares, and I had to prepare the bill by telling the Store lady as to what all was done with the car.

[sabsubs]

Wow what a epic trip you had! You rightly called it as epic. 6305.4 KMS and more than 30k of petrol. You must have thoroughly enjoyed your drive I believe. Please upload more photos and give us more details on a day wise basis. Thank you so much for sharing this travelogue.

[MorePower]

Originally Posted by Judemayne

After two disappointments/aborted long drives we at last completed the drive of our lifetime-Bangalore to Bhutan with Sikkim thrown in for good measure and a wedding of former army colleague’s son at Kolkata.

Drive of a lifetime indeed! Salute your determination, perseverence and spirit

[Judemayne]

Adding a few more pictures of the drive:-

[samish_g]

First of all Congratulations SIR!!! for completing the "epic" trip. Hats off to your courage and determination to drive for over 6000 Kms.

One of the pictures show the windshield completely opaque. Was it ice/snow due to the overnight parking as you mentioned in one of your posts?

Regards

Samish

[NPV]

@Judemayne - Sir, hats off to you on the epic drive!

Belated birthday wishes and what a way to celebrate with ~6000 Km of driving.

Nice pictures and great report of road conditions and what to expect on such a drive.
A week or so ago I read another Bhutan travelogue by another member who had taken the train + bus mode and was itching to ask if this can be attempted by road in a self driven car and now here you've done it

The Dantak Canteen, Paro price list - food per 'Peace'!