We had completed 5 safaris without seeing or smelling a tiger. Every other vehicle seemed to have had quality sightings of the big catsIt was almost painful to even sit at a dining table and hear about how someone followed a tiger for 15 minutes
. When we took a detour, we missed a tiger. When another vehicle took a detour, the folks had great sightings. 10 minutes too early, 5 minutes too late...we had a big 'last mile' problem!
The moon sets as we wait in queue for the Moharli gate to open
Cleaning after a meal. Check out the rough tongue.
Tadoba Lake
This is the barrier that separates Moharli from Tadoba zone
On the 6th (afternoon) safari, we came across a recent Sambhar kill beside Tadoba Lake. It was hidden among Teak fronds, around 30 feet from the water's edge. We waited for a while before we were forced to head out due to the increasing number of vehicles piling up behind. But this was at least a positive sign - gave us some hope for the next morning. It was dark when we were heading to the gate. We saw a few vehicles - 500m ahead - slow down and stop. When we reached them, they said that there was a leopard sitting beside the road - which vanished just a few seconds before we arrived.
Fawn
Serpent Eagle
The elusive male gives us a glowering glance from far away
Next day morning, we decided to go to the lake but take a slightly roundabout route. Murphy was accompanying us as usual. When we reached the lake we saw quite a few vehicles parked on the trail, with all passengers having a big smile on their faces. A big male tiger was on the kill when the first vehicles arrived, and even walked parallel to the lake for a few minutes before heading off inside the forest - 5 minutes before we arrived. This was becoming quite ridiculous. We decided to wait for a while, though I was skeptical that the tiger would come out, given the vehicles and humans. After 15 minutes someone whispered 'tiger'! A big fat tiger - after a heavy meal - was slowly walking parallel to the Gypsy trail, a few hundred metres inside the forest. He was too far away to get a good shot. It seemed that he would be crossing the trail further ahead, after a bend, so we moved towards that direction. He came out on the trail, gave us a glance, crossed and then went inside undergrowth. First 'Stripes' of this trip. We hoped that the tiger would return to the kill in the afternoon, given that a significant portion of the kill was left.It had started stinking though.
The half-eaten kill. See the fang marks on the neck.
Parakeets were dime a dozen near Tadoba Lake
Backlit Sambhar
In the afternoon, I told the driver to head straight towards the lake. We were among the first few vehicles to arrive. When we went near the kill we couldn't find it. Did a croc come up and take it into the water, or did the tiger move it? While we were discussing and scanning the surrounding forest, our guide looked down and to the right side (the kill had been on the left), and got super excited. I followed his glance, and saw a tigress about 20 feet from us, eating the kill. We had been looking far out, and the tigress was well camouflaged in the undergrowth, so we never noticed her in the last 3-4 minutes. She was right under our nose while we were looking everywhere else!
Tigress on the kill
Friendship attempt
White-eyed Buzzard. Far away.
We were able to spend some quality time with this tigress, aka Maya, lady of the lake. She got up, walked past us, went towards the water, cooled off for a few minutes, came onto the road again and then finally vanished into the undergrowth. We got some close sightings, since we had positioned our vehicle well.
Different poses of Maya Memsahib
After the tiger vanished, most vehicles went off. We hung around because we felt that the male tiger - Maya's mate - could come visiting (like some males we know, he was a bit shy in the midst of a crowd). Two Sambhars with a frisky fawn came down to drink. The fawn did a Bambi act for quite a while, and even came close to our vehicle and looked at us curiously. Got some backlit shots against the setting sun. It was time to go back. Just before we were about to head out, we heard some alarm calls and went to a corner of the lake. Saw the male tiger coming towards us, some 500m away. Then he decided to lie down behind a bush, and didn't budge for 5 minutes. There was no more time left, so we headed back, feeling content.
Following mum around
Hoopoe
The Egret has gained acceptance
Practicing BIF snapshots with different settings
Next day morning we headed back to Nagpur. I was going to drop my friend at the airport, pick up another friend and proceed to Satpura National Park. Checked with the locals about shortcuts, and took a narrow road which didn't show up on Google Maps (in the forest areas, it always makes sense to check with locals). Hit the state highway after 45 minutes and then it was smooth sailing. By 11 we were negotiating the outskirts of Nagpur, on our way to Chhindwara/Pachmarhi.
End of another day