We woke up to a foggy and cold morning in Bikaner. There was not much to do today so we lazed around quite a bit before finally packing up. The plan for the day was to visit the
Camel Research Centre and the
Karni Mata Temple in Deshnok, on our way to the
Bishnoi Village Camp near Jodhpur. However, as we reached the
Camel Research Centre we learnt that it opens only after 2:00 PM in the afternoon. There was no way we could have waited that long since we also had close to 300 kms to cover in the day, so we gave the place a miss and carried on to Deshnok. What a downer to begin the day with.
Karni Mata Temple
The
Karni Mata Temple in Deshnok is also known as the
Rat Temple and its
legend is quite well known these days. The temple is unique for its population of about 20,000 rats, locally called
kabbas, which are revered in this temple.
The front facade of the temple in white marble was completed by
Maharaja Ganga Singh of Bikaner.
The doors of the front facade are made of silver, depicting the legend of
Karni Mata.
It is considered auspicious to feed the rats with your own hands and to eat food that had been nibbled by the rats. I did neither, and that is not my hand in the picture
The main entrance to the temple, again in white marble. Notice the net covering of the open space, that is to keep away air borne predators of the rats.
Painting on the ceiling of the nine planets according to Hindu mythology.
You enter with a bit of apprehension and icky feeling, but that melts away in no time. If a rat runs over your feet it is considered auspicious. Also be aware that if you accidentally step on and kill a rat, you need to replace it with one made of solid gold!
The rats are literally everywhere, even in the offerings made to the God. They are not at all shy or apprehensive of the close contact with humans.
All around the temple there are offerings made to the rat, of milk
Water
Laddoos
It is also considered auspicious to spot the rare white rat amongst the rats. My take is that it would be auspicious if you spot one by chance, but with hundreds of pilgrims actively looking for one, there is no great luck in spotting one, almost everyone gets to see one of these rare rats.
I would say, it is much more rare to spot one striking such an amazing pose
And with that, we wrapped up our visit to the temple. A useful tip – with all the grains and other food offered to rat as well as rat droppings scattered all around, the temple floor is not the cleanest of surfaces. It would be useful to wrap small polythene bags under your legs or socks to prevent them from getting soiled. We saw a travel agent doing just that for a group of foreign tourists he was taking to the temple.