[Wanderers]

Hi predatorwheelz

Thanks for this wonderful travelogue.
I have been waiting for this ever since you mentioned your holiday plan during last meet.

I have been to Jodhpur couple of times. The might of Mehrangarh Fort is breathtaking.
Onion Kachories of Jodhpur are world famous and last for 4-5 days, if kept refrigerated.

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by predatorwheelz

One last pic of the Dungar Mahal.

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

Oil pressure probably. The unit is KgF/sq. cm indicated in the Russian language

Indeed, yes. It is an oil pressure gauge.



This one is a VDO unit- for the FIAT 500, graded in BAR. One BAR is equivalent to atmosphere on earth at sea level. Thus, at peak operating RPM, (@~5000 RPM- 1.4 MultiAir 2007) the FIAT 500's engine internals would be subjected to approximately 5 times the atmospheric pressure we experience. Thus, in the internal components of the motor of the FIAT 500 (Most of the petrol ones, i.e) would be subjected to the atmospheric pressure we experience, at idle rpm. That is, at 1000 rpm = pressure exerted = 1 atmosphere.

Our FIAT 1100D has a similar one- graded in kg/cm square, right fro zero, upto ten kg per cm square. When the motor is redlined- (~4800 rpm) the oil pressure gauge should show the reading as 10 kg of pressure (oil), being exerted on every square centimeter area- of the engines core internals, such as the pistons, et cetera.

At idle (~600 +50 rpm), the reading fluctuates from 3.5ish, to 4 kg of oil pressure being exerted. This may increase to 4.5 to 5 kg, given the idle rpm, and the given conditions, such as oil condition, and fuel quality.

Once, the car was being driven 100+ km a day, at regular intervals, when it was 30 years old. One fine day, while approaching our residence, my grandfather noticed that at idle, the pressure being shown was merely 2.5, at idle. The car reached home- the hood was popped open, and voila! What do we see?

An engine oil leak. Luckily, engine damage was not evident. The 43 year old car, in 2015, is still running on its original, unopened motor. Whew! People miss the temp gauges these days- I miss the oil pressure gauges. But in event of low oil pressure, these modern cars have some provision in the ECU I guess, that shuts them down/puts them into limp home mode.

So much for a simple gauge, na? Credits to the pic: Google.

[Shreyans_Jain]

This is the best travelogue put up in a long time. You showed us a side of Jodhpur that many casual tourists never get to see. Eagerly waiting for the next part.

Kudos

[SS-Traveller]

Very painstakingly researched and detailed travelogue, PW. Enjoyed reading all of it, especially with the history lessons and the anecdotes. You deserve the 5-star rating, However, the only place you seem to have missed out on is the museum at the Umaid Bhavan Palace, especially with its vintage car collection.

One more trip there in the offing?

[VCheng]

This is a marvelous thread, with not only a fascinating look into history, but also a testament to the untold artisans that created these treasures for us all to enjoy and cherish so many years later.

[justwheels]

Every word of this travelogue is amazing. I just started reading it casually, and now its been an hour since I have been hooked to it. Great work Predatorwheelz.
India is a land of such rich heritage and it surely is an eye opener every time travelers like you take us through the historical remnants and the glory of the past. Thanks a lot. And I really salute your appetite for history. Most tourists just go and come back, but the detail in which you visit, immerse yourself in the history is amazing and inspiring both.
I have marked the place and the homestay as a must visit whenever possible.

Thanks a lot again for taking us through Rajasthan so beautifully and in a candid travelogue.

[ShankarG]

superb Travelogue. thanks for sharing Predatorwheelz.
You went to the real Rajasthan and indeed its very beautiful. Most of us content ourselves by visiting just the major forts and happily posing in front of their mighty structure.

If you like forts, pay a visit to Bhangarh sometime if you have not been. It is around 2 hours away from Jaipur. It offers real beauty and the added anecdotes around it being haunted and multiple versions and stories around it will double your thrill.

Authentic Pyaz kachori is one of the best thing of Jodhpur. If you visit sometime around Summers, do try Papaya Shake which is very good. (dont know to how many taste buds it will tickle )

Thanks

[Nagesh Bhatt]

Absolutely spellbinding travelogue predatorwheelz !
What you have essentially done is guided the reader through the tarmac,the dust, the sand, the majestic forts, the colorful people & everything that makes up this beautiful land of Rajasthan. I too was just glancing through this article but was stuck up for well over an hour.
Many people visit Rajasthan but few have the talent to depict the journey the way you envisaged. Simply Magnificent ! Kudos !clap

[predatorwheelz]

Originally Posted by Samba

Great travelogue Aniket Da. The pictures are nice too.

Now i will plan a road trip to Rajasthan covering other places too !

Yes do that. Rajasthan is best enjoyed by road. Great roads to drive on, and one can see the sights at their own pace.

Originally Posted by S2!!!

That is a very elaborate travelogue. Thanks for the sharing. The palaces, forts, structures, etc. all ooze royalty.

Recently, had the fortune to visit Jodhpur and Udaipur and man was I impressed!

So let me get this straight, this person just posed with a hookah for the past 18 years of his life? Damn!

Thanks brother. Yup, he's a trust employee, and showing off his moustache and his hookah smoking skills are his only job for the last 18 years.

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

Oil pressure probably. The unit is KgF/sq. cm indicated in the Russian language:

Thank you for the information sir.

Originally Posted by Wanderers

Hi predatorwheelz

Thanks for this wonderful travelogue.
I have been waiting for this ever since you mentioned your holiday plan during last meet.

I have been to Jodhpur couple of times. The might of Mehrangarh Fort is breathtaking.
Onion Kachories of Jodhpur are world famous and last for 4-5 days, if kept refrigerated.

Thank you Gyan bhai. It is always interesting to share trip details with you. Must meet up again soon.

In my opinion, Onion Kachories are always best had fresh off the pan!

Originally Posted by Shreyans_Jain

This is the best travelogue put up in a long time. You showed us a side of Jodhpur that many casual tourists never get to see. Eagerly waiting for the next part.

Kudos

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Very painstakingly researched and detailed travelogue, PW. Enjoyed reading all of it, especially with the history lessons and the anecdotes. You deserve the 5-star rating, However, the only place you seem to have missed out on is the museum at the Umaid Bhavan Palace, especially with its vintage car collection.

One more trip there in the offing?

Originally Posted by VCheng

This is a marvelous thread, with not only a fascinating look into history, but also a testament to the untold artisans that created these treasures for us all to enjoy and cherish so many years later.

Originally Posted by justwheels

Every word of this travelogue is amazing. I just started reading it casually, and now its been an hour since I have been hooked to it. Great work Predatorwheelz.
India is a land of such rich heritage and it surely is an eye opener every time travelers like you take us through the historical remnants and the glory of the past. Thanks a lot. And I really salute your appetite for history. Most tourists just go and come back, but the detail in which you visit, immerse yourself in the history is amazing and inspiring both.
I have marked the place and the homestay as a must visit whenever possible.

Thanks a lot again for taking us through Rajasthan so beautifully and in a candid travelogue.

Originally Posted by ShankarG

superb Travelogue. thanks for sharing Predatorwheelz.
You went to the real Rajasthan and indeed its very beautiful. Most of us content ourselves by visiting just the major forts and happily posing in front of their mighty structure.

If you like forts, pay a visit to Bhangarh sometime if you have not been. It is around 2 hours away from Jaipur. It offers real beauty and the added anecdotes around it being haunted and multiple versions and stories around it will double your thrill.

Authentic Pyaz kachori is one of the best thing of Jodhpur. If you visit sometime around Summers, do try Papaya Shake which is very good. (dont know to how many taste buds it will tickle

Originally Posted by Nagesh Bhatt

Absolutely spellbinding travelogue predatorwheelz !
What you have essentially done is guided the reader through the tarmac,the dust, the sand, the majestic forts, the colorful people & everything that makes up this beautiful land of Rajasthan. I too was just glancing through this article but was stuck up for well over an hour.
Many people visit Rajasthan but few have the talent to depict the journey the way you envisaged. Simply Magnificent ! Kudos !

A big, hearty thanks to all of you. Rajasthan is a place close to my heart. I visit it with a lot of interest, see everything through an enthusiast's eyes, and try my best to replicate my experiences through photos and writing. The fact that all of you have taken pains to go through the narrative, and heaped praises on me, inspires me to keep writing. Please dont miss the last part of this travelogue, starting now.

SS-Traveller - Yes, we did miss Umaid Bhavan Palace. Even after allocating 3 days to Jodhpur and planning a varied itinerary. But not to worry, I will go back once again.

ShankarG - I planned to see the entire Rajasthan in 3 trips. This was the second. Bhangarh is on the itinerary for the last trip, coming next January!

As for Papaya Shake, Rajasthan in summers is frightfully hot. Would prefer to give it a miss, instead of incurring a heat stroke.

Day 6 - Drive to Jaisalmer, camel safari at sand dunes

We leave Bikaner at around 10 AM, way past our planned time of leaving early morning.



The road to Jaisalmer is a fantastic stretch of tarmac. Single lane highway throughout, but the road surface is smooth, and there's sparse local traffic.





We encounter an army convoy travelling to Jaisalmer on the way. An endless line of Ashok Leyland Stallions.



And a few Tatra 6X6s.



My customary train pic. This one we encountered at a level crossing between Phalodi and Bikaner.



We reach our Jaisalmer hotel in just short of 4 hours. Seems like a great drive, with an average speed of 84kmph, but the return journey is yet to come!



A pic of Jaisalmer fort taken from the rooftop restaurant of our hotel. Resplendent in the afternoon sun. Our actual visit to the fort is scheduled for tomorrow though.



Our choice to go dune-hopping is between Sam Sand dunes and the less populated Khuri. Our hotel guy fixes up a ride-and-entertainment package with a resort in Sam, and we ditch the plan to go to Khuri.

Big, big mistake. Sam Sand Dunes is more like a circus, with thousands of camels, millions of tourists, and "desert ride" being more like a walk around the corner. No end to the number of people and the commotion around.

We take the ride nevertheless.



Our "guide" is a young local lad, and his much younger brother (in the pic, escorting my wife's camel). Immature people who have learnt the art of conning tourists.



After a very disappointing ride we sit down on the dunes for a photo op. It is getting dark.



Wifey poses with a couple of local girls.



I pose with the camel herders.



And the camels pose with each other. They are called Diya and Sridevi!



Our evening program is in a camp close to the dunes.



Right to Left: The dining tent, some luxury tents where one can stay the night, and the central tent where the evening program is to be held.



The evening program is a mishmash of Rajasthani folk singers and dancers. But we don't enjoy at all. The performances seem forced, and nothing extraordinary. Okay for first timers in Rajasthan though.



We finish the dinner earlier than most, and head back to Jaisalmer by 10 PM. We did encounter a magical sight. It was a full moon night, and driving back alone was feeling a little eery. Suddenly, 2 wild camels came out of nowhere and crossed the road in front of us. I braked hard and watched in amazement as the creatures disappeared into the desert. Wish the camera was ready to take a pic.

Day 7 - Kuldhara, Jaisalmer fort and a city walk

Kuldhara is a village 17 kms from Jaisalmer. Much has been written about Kuldhara on tbhp, especially in this fantastic travelogue by tbhpian //M:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ann-kutch.html

Just to reprise, Kuldhara used to be a village of Paliwal Brahmins. A century ago, an evil minister fell in love with a girl from the village. He wanted to marry the girl by force, and threatened the villagers with dire consequences if they did not heed to his wishes. The villagers held a meeting that night, and the next morning everyone left Kuldhara. Before leaving, they left a curse that no one will be able to settle in Kuldhara thereafter.

For a century Kuldhara has remained uninhabited. My curiosity was further piqued by //M's "near supernatural" experience at Kuldhara.

The road to Kuldhara is a narrow desert road.



Gets really sandy in some places.



The entrance gate to Kuldhara. One has to pay a nominal fee.



Some huts right after the entrance. These are obviously modern structures and not part of the original village.



A 1 km sandy trail thereafter.



And the walls of the original village loom into view.





We park the cars here, and start taking a walk around the place.



This was one of the huts. The roof is missing, and the huts were symmetrical in size and shape.



Though most parts are in ruins.



A chhatri in the village centre.



The village temple. This building is comparatively well preserved.



More ruins as we walk along.



(Continued)

[rusticnomad]

Last year we did Indore - Ranthambore - Bundi - Chittorgarh - Udaipur - Mount Abu- Ambaji - Indore trip in first week of October and all of us got tanned during this 12 day outing.

So, for this year's trip we pushed it to November end and the route is as follows:



Schedule:
Start on 22nd Nov at around 9PM for Jodhpur
Jodhur (23/24rth night) -- reach Jodhpur by 10AM.
Jodhpur - Osian - Pokharan - Jaisalmer (25/26th night) -- will cover Tanot/Longewal too, from Jaisalmer.
Khuri in desert camp (27th night)
Khuri - Shri Mohangarh -- Bikaner (28th/29th) -- Check-in around 6pm.
Bikaner - Nagaur - Jaipur (30th/1st Dec) -- intend to cover Bhangarh/Sariska (one of them)
Indore (back on 2nd late night)

I know this is a rushed trip, but this is the only number of days that we can spare.

Estimated run 3000+ km. 4 PAX, 2 Drivers. Initial and final stretch drive will be in night, though if need be we may halt for the night at Chittorgarh where I have paid the minimal amount for booking rooms.

Few queries:

1. Jaisalmer to Bikaner via Shri Mohangarh (Fort) is better than going via Khichan?

2. Is Bhangarh worth a visit or is it better to head to Sariska wildlife sanctuary and skip Bhangarh?

3. Does a half day trip to Bishnoi village (Jodhpur) really need a Jeep or it is doable on 185 GC T-Jet? The hotel guy is pushing for a jeep whereas I am insisting on just a guide.

4. Any other inputs would be welcome.

TIA.

[predatorwheelz]

Originally Posted by rusticnomad

Schedule:
Start on 22nd Nov at around 9PM for Jodhpur
Jodhur (23/24rth night) -- reach Jodhpur by 10AM.
Jodhpur - Osian - Pokharan - Jaisalmer (25/26th night) -- will cover Tanot/Longewal too, from Jaisalmer.
Khuri in desert camp (27th night)
Khuri - Shri Mohangarh -- Bikaner (28th/29th) -- Check-in around 6pm.
Bikaner - Nagaur - Jaipur (30th/1st Dec) -- intend to cover Bhangarh/Sariska (one of them)
Indore (back on 2nd late night)

I know this is a rushed trip, but this is the only number of days that we can spare.

Estimated run 3000+ km. 4 PAX, 2 Drivers. Initial and final stretch drive will be in night, though if need be we may halt for the night at Chittorgarh where I have paid the minimal amount for booking rooms.

Few queries:

1. Jaisalmer to Bikaner via Shri Mohangarh (Fort) is better than going via Khichan?

2. Is Bhangarh worth a visit or is it better to head to Sariska wildlife sanctuary and skip Bhangarh?

3. Does a half day trip to Bishnoi village (Jodhpur) really need a Jeep or it is doable on 185 GC T-Jet? The hotel guy is pushing for a jeep whereas I am insisting on just a guide.

4. Any other inputs would be welcome.

TIA.

Its not a rushed itinerary. I've done this circuit in January 2015, and given the timelines you've set, a little smart planning will ensure you cover everything of significance.

Answers to your queries first:

1. Jaisalmer to Bikaner (NH15) via Khichan is a fantastic stretch of single lane, well tarmac-ed road that one needs to do once in a lifetime. I left Jaisalmer at 6 in the morning and was at Bikaner before 9.30, a distance of more than 300 kms, in a humble i20 CRDI! See the screenshot below.



Its your call that you also want to cover Mohangarh, but it will definitely take more time than the regular highway.

2. Dont miss Bhangarh. Do stop by for a brief while and leave just when the eery feeling in the stomach increases.

3. I did the trip in a (tour operator arranged) 4wd which took me to the doorstep of the Bishnoi family. Or you can go right up to the edge of the village in a normal car, then walk the distance of the kuchha road - hardly a 200 mtr walk.

Now some tips:

1. Try to walk the blue city in Jodhpur if you have time. The essence of any city can be felt only when you walk the old parts of it, and blue city should not be missed if you're tired of playing kings & castles, or want to try out some amazing local food. A friend arranges Blue City walks there, I can PM you his contact if you feel so.

2. Try the Rajasthani Thali at Gypsy restaurant in Jodhpur. An unassuming place with no decor, but wonderful food.

3. While doing Bikaner, drop in at Maharaja Ganga Singh's hunting lodge at Gajner. A usually missed treat, but some wonderful views.

For more information, as well as a historical perspective, you can read through my travelogue here:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...er-marwar.html

[rusticnomad]

Originally Posted by predatorwheelz

Answers to your queries first:

1. Jaisalmer to Bikaner (NH15) via Khichan is a fantastic stretch of single lane, well tarmac-ed road that one needs to do once in a lifetime.

Its your call that you also want to cover Mohangarh, but it will definitely take more time than the regular highway.

No issues -- just ~60 km extra drive, from Mohangarh, to connect back to NH 15 and would not want to risk bad roads on unknown routes. I remember google maps was showing me a route from Haldighati to Ranthambore which no local knew. So always seek help of locals when in doubt.

Originally Posted by predatorwheelz

2. Dont miss Bhangarh. Do stop by for a brief while and leave just when the eery feeling in the stomach increases.

Ok. Only thing that I am scared of is reptiles
Would it be worthwhile doing Sariska? In this case would do Bhangarh on return. Only issue that I see is we have to leave very early to catch the morning trip at Sariska. Will do online booking. Which safari route (STR-1/2/3) is better?

Originally Posted by predatorwheelz

Now some tips:

1. Try to walk the blue city in Jodhpur if you have time. The essence of any city can be felt only when you walk the old parts of it, and blue city should not be missed if you're tired of playing kings & castles, or want to try out some amazing local food. A friend arranges Blue City walks there, I can PM you his contact if you feel so.

2. Try the Rajasthani Thali at Gypsy restaurant in Jodhpur. An unassuming place with no decor, but wonderful food.

3. While doing Bikaner, drop in at Maharaja Ganga Singh's hunting lodge at Gajner. A usually missed treat, but some wonderful views.

For more information, as well as a historical perspective, you can read through my travelogue here:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...er-marwar.html

1. Please PM me the details.

2. Sure. I am a Type 2 diabetic (and also run a forum for Managing diabetes through LCHF diet -- and remain drug free for fifth year running), but during vacations I allow myself the extra carbs due to lot of walking around.

3. This we plan as break for grub while on the move from Jaisalmer to Bikaner, just to avoid back-and-forth.

Your travelogue(s) will definitely come in handy in tweaking the schedule. Nice clicks, and I am just waiting for my turn. 18 more days to go