Day 11 - Thembang to Tawang.
After a freezing cold night warmed by Mr Satyen Jorme's hospitality and butter tea, we woke up to a bright morning at Thembang Village. We explored the small village and the very old Dzong. Unlike the massive Dzongs in Bhutan, the Thembang Dzong was relatively smaller but much older. We had a warm breakfast and prepared to leave. Mr Satyen obliged us with a picture wearing his traditional Monpa dress and we started at 08:00 A.M back to the main highway to Tawang . We planned to refuel in Dirang town which is around 15 km from Thembang, but later realized that the only petrol pump was a kilometer before the town and so had to turn back. After filling up we continued the climb to Sela Pass . We reached the Sela lake and were disappointed to see a small lake, only to realize 10 minutes later that the actual Sela lake was around 500 m ahead. It was frozen and we stopped to stretch and try a bit of ice. The kids were having a lot of fun throwing balls of ice at each other. Pls be very careful if you are going to step on the frozen lake. A tragedy happened later during our same trip where the ice gave way in a lake in Nagaland and 2 college students died. After playing with the snow for a while, we started off again to Tawang, stopping in between for a few minutes at the Jaswantgarh war memorial in memory of Rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat who with two other soldiers held back the Chinese for three days in the Battle or Nuranang. There is a small Army canteen there but we decided to go further down for lunch and stopped at Jang village around 2 P.M for a nice lunch of Thupka and noodles. The Nuranang falls is near Jang village, but it was not rainy season and the locals said that the water flow was not great so we didnt explore it. By evening we reached Tawang. There was no power and there was not 3G/2G and we couldnt look up Tripadvisor or any travel site and looked for a hotel in the old fashioned way - Asking people :-). Interestingly a cab driver named Mukesh came to me and asked me if I was the person from Bangalore who called him ( I had made a few inquiries for a cab from Bangalore because I was not sure if the Innova could go to Sengester lake and Bum La ). He saw the KA registration and put two and two together. He put us up at the Buddha hotel in the center of Tawang which was a pretty decent lodge. There was a nice Bar/Cafe below the hotel and we had a sumptuous dinner and drinks after a long tiring drive and settled in for the night.
Thembang Eco Tourism
Corn being dried outside Mr Satyen Jorme's house
At the entrance of the Thembang Dzong
Inside the Dzong
Dried Yak Meat hanging. It is common in all village houses.
Mr Satyen Jorme's house
Red Panda's in Thembang. We didnt see any though. Would love to come back for a trek
Thembang
On the way to Sela Pass
The frozen Sela Lake
Walking on Ice
One of the many meaningful Road Signs by the Army / BRO
At the Jaswantgarh war memorial
Yak's on the way
The snow filled road to Tawang.
Day 12 - Tawang Monastry, Sengester and Back.
Next day morning, we had breakfast at the hotel and started at 09:00 A.M for the famous Tawang monastery which is the largest in the world after the Potala Palace in Lhasa. It is not just one building as I expected but a large compound. There was a museum with many rare photographs, artifacts and books. There were many teenage monks playing cricket in the open which was fun to watch. After hanging around a bit, we decided to go to Sengester lake without any delay. On the way was the DC's office and we stopped to inquire if we could get accommodation at circuit house. Contrary to government staff in most places if you dont have influence, the staff here were very friendly and wrote us the approval for accomodation. The circuit house was a short detour on the way to Sengester so we dropped our luggage there and placed our dinner order with some local cuisine. It was 11 A.M We were told that the drive to Sengester was 36 km and should take an hour and a half which we later realized was not really possible unless you are on a Hummer. The road to Sengester takes a detour just a couple of kilometers out of the city because of road construction. The detour is pretty bad and the Innova was stretched to its limit. It is quite steep in some hairpins and I had to do a half clutch on first gear a couple of times and the smell of the burnt clutch was overwhelming. After a while the detour reached back to the main road which was better and we continued to Sengester. We stopped at the Rajputana cafe for some hot pakora's and The snow started getting a bit deeper and we had to carefully roll over the snow in many places. I was getting a bit worried, because I didnt have chains or a 4WD. The only assurance was from locals who said that the Innova can make it because the snow wasnt very deep yet. We reached Sengester by around 2 P.M. We parked the car and took the walking path around the lake. the lake had a layer of thin ice over it. There were trees in the lake ( Similar to the ones that get created when a cachement area fills up, not sure how the trees grew though. The lake is definitely not a cachement area). The beauty of the place will take your breath away. The kids of course had a lot of fun with the snow around the lake and were refusing to come back. We headed back and got stuck in the snow a couple of kilometers into our return. Everyone except me got off, trying to dislodge the Innova. I was pretty worried, but suddenlyIndian army soldiers appeared out of nowhere sensing our distress. We got out of the snow without their help, but just the fact that the army is present even though they are not visible was a huge assurance for us. If anyone from the Indian Army reads this, you guys totally rock !!. We came back without much incident but had a very late lunch in Tawang at around 05:30. We then settled into the nice Circuit house. Power was quite flaky, and went off and on till around 12:00 P.M. We slept preparing for a long drive back to Tezpur the next day.
If you plan to also go to Bum La where you can see the China border you have to take a separate pass (Not sure where. We had already decided against Bum La because the Innova couldnt negotiate the road and also the altitude was 15000 feet as opposed to 13000 feet at Y junction on the way to Sengester. With elderly people with us we didnt want to risk the high altitude). Bum La is a deviation from Y junction. One more place we skipped is Zemi Thang where there are apparently nice homestays.
At the Tawang Monastery
At the Tawang Monastery
Photo of the Dalai Lama escaping from China to Tawang.
At the PT Tso lake on the way to Sengester Lake ( Or Madhuri Lake )
The PT Tso Lake
Road Signs on the way to Sengester
At the Cafe Rajputana. Hot Pakora's and Coffee
Guru Nanak Ji passed this route hundreds of years ago.
Interesting road sign. Apt for the road.
Snow filled way to Sengester
Army Trucks near Sengester. The place is 5 km from the international border.
The partially frozen Sengester Lake from Above
Sengester Lake
Sengester Lake
The Sengester Lake