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-   -   On a sheet of Ice - Chadar! (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/162350-sheet-ice-chadar-2.html)

This is a different perspective. A friend of mine walking the Chadar fell into it. This is a blog that she had written about it (including her other travels)

http://www.ravenouslegs.com/blog/chadar-trek-tales

Continuing the Day05 Saga
We set off and after walking few paces we come across this :


Just to realize that the harsh nature just takes out every little drop of life out.

One amazing thing about the trek is the terrain is same, yet never same! There is not one moment you would feel bored of the nature and surroundings. The environment really is treacherous, you take it it too lightly and it throws you out.

This man just relaxes and laughs at us while we struggle (he's the guide yamzor)



When you think you have seen enough, you come across this :



Kaach hai (clear glass)! The environment just manages to amaze you evry fe moments. I got flown away with the sheer happiness of something like this and started playing over it. Missed a few clicks, how ever no regrets!

We are walking and to the left we hear crackling sounds, there's this :



There is this guy who just traversed 10 feet while I was braving the cold and taking my glove off to get a shot! He was quick, damn quick. He came down like there is no tomorrow, no cold, no terrain and no chadar. He just got off the cliff and walked away. Just like those movies where the hero walks away from the blast. *here it was the loose stones falling off and cracking the chadar*

We had a long way to go, acres and kms of white sheet to walk on



Then, there are few beautiful spots like these :



Like the springs, the more beautiful look the more is the danger!

Mother nature puts up the art on chadar :



At spots like the one above, you will hear the water gushing through. The sound is so loud that, one would think the chadar will flow with it or fall into it! But, after looking at it for a few days we realised the temperatures drop so low that, even the great force with which it flows gets freezed and all the thrust comes down to 0 i.e solid state - ice!

We had a break, the usual yummy lunch, the tea for hydration and we are off

I just take a breather turn around to watch people, how the endure, how the walk, how tired they are, just as me, yet enduring, there is only one way > Forward



To my right the nature had stood still



Look at the blue pool, like I told the more beautiful, the more dangerous. If you keep your pole on this one, it would crack.



The chadar was not good ahead it was a big mess, negotiating carefully was a necessity. If you make a mistake down you go with the water which flows at high speeds and super low temperatures



We take careful steps and make it to the base after few more kms, it's dark, it's cold, it's colder thank you can think of. The body has worn out, it pains but you cannot feel the pain due to the cold. The mind wants to give up. But, it knows it can't as there is no way out. There is no network, there is no electricity, there are no people, there are no cities. All there is, is cold and silence of the star lit sky.

Day 06 :

I should skip the starting problem of the morning. (Ain't it obvious how tough it is as the temperatures are dropping). But I was loving this morning, there was no change. I was just like the who hated his school all the junior years, as you go into highers you love school. I was just loving and cherishing wach moment there

The beautiful setup of our camp, yes it was like living right some dream



The chadar was really in a bad shape at few spots, you just have to negotiate with it



Another shot of the base :



The reflections :



Long day ahead :



It had snowed last evening, the results are brown rocks go all white, new scenes are set up



The snow is like another villain of the story. It really is dangerous to have snow, we were lucky that the snowfall was not heavy. Had it been heavy, it would have left a few inches on the chadar and it would be impossible to see and gauge the chadar. In layman's words bangalore's roads after rains : "You never know if you are going into a pit or a crater to come out safe " stupid:



There are more clouds ahead, if the do not clear out the trek can be called off for the day.



The fractals are coming together, another day and they would be rock solid



This is really bad and risky, I mean yeah everything is! But, this is more risky than the normal chadar, the fractal sheets break, join, break, take a bit of chadar away or join in and become a part of it



Get this, still and the flow



The flow gets still? The still gets flowing?



Another cave



Deadly, ain't it (No, not killed by animal. It's the skull of skinned goat which the people cook the meat of, off and eat.)



Look at the magnificence,



Does not look that magnificent? Here hyoomans next to it :



It's snowed, the chadar is not well formed, hard working hours ahead :



Narrow place to go ahead, we walk in a single file

There was no good news, the clouds were still persistent and there was no sign of the sun. However there was no snowfall, we picked up the pace and covered up the ground as fast as possible


It became really challenging as there was no sun and there was snow all over. We were just following the tracks made by our guide, he just dragged the stick on the surface along him and it left the skid marks for us to follow

All were in a single file, takin no risk

and snow came in

more clouds coming in, but so did clear skies

The playful sun and clouds set up few more master pieces

But, again the clouds came in and there was serious darkness around, it became all gloomy

Going ahead there was a slight clear sky, it got ok, just ok.


We covered up the ground and reached our camp. There was the yummy hot pakodas waiting along side tea and all the days tiredness just goes off. A series of conversations, teas and yummy meal became the way of life. There was no room for the sophisticated life out there, all were like a family more than family, taking rounds to decide who is going to take a crap first to how to survive the loo tent to amazing travel stories. Just the way of life, off we go to the sleeping bags with all the excitement filled in.

Day 07

Morning! This is the day, why we have traveled so much, taken so many risks, played with the life, out our life into one guy's guidance and there is all hope, smiles and the air is filled with excitement. Today is the day we reach nerak, yay!!!



What? Disappointed with the pic? The sunshines and the ray of hopes and the excitement was in the head, the nature has it's ways! Not a movie where the scenes change according to your state of mind. It was quite gloomy and there was a snowfall previous night too, resulting in the gloominess around.

We were off and were walking at a pace which was the best, we might have mastered the chadar or at least the art of walking on the chadar



Amazing? Ain't it



You are just awe struck every moment and cold struck too! The winds were howling too and the temperatures were really low



The lunch break, there were porters around,



Their way of life



Our cook



There are a few who walk by us while we eat, there is a lot to cover ahead



There is another group which breaks for lunch



We move quickly as the clouds are setting in




There is all the whites in front of you to cover, it's become a way of life to us now too



This thought that we belong here, we are used to the chadar, we know the chadar costed 2 people terribly.
Incident 1 : There was snowfall all over and guide had been asking us to follow him since day one and was more so specific about following the line. One guy went wayward and was away from his group. He paid the price, he went towards the edges, not towards the river. But, towards the mountains and slipped in! He just dropped in only thing above the chadar was his head. All of us were struck, we shouted out and all the guides and porters just threw their baggage and went to rescue the chap. He was pulled out and was stripped from his clothes within a few seconds as he was wet head to toe at water colder that we can think of! Hypothermia would have set in if not fo the quick rescue.

Incident 2 :

There was a girl in our group, it was very unfortunate that she fractured her hand as she fell on chadar. All of us would fall everyday and all of us would keep a count of it and have a fun time about it. This was just unexpected as the girl broke her hand and there was nothing we could do. We had minimal medical assistance and they tried setting her hand in and there was no other go but to trek till nerak as the sun was coming down.


There is some log lifting competition among us



We see loads of flags put up, it was surprise, as we never have had seen something like this for days



There are people cheering up, there are people greeting us and they were putting a little piece of cloth around us and asking for bakshish



After a puzzled 10 minutes we get to know that we have reached nerak and the people are greeting us for successfully reaching there, still puzzled, where is the great frozen 70 foot tall waterfall!!

We walk a little ahead and realize, it's just around! clap:



Here we are,How tiny are we ?



A close up



The trees are just look like left over twigs!




There were few more kms left to reach the final base camp, there was still a little to negotiate



Oh, there is a sign! oh, we are here! Oh, there is a sat phone! Oh, I can call up my loved ones to let them know I'm alive! Oh, what! Oh, oh! The brain went crazy and ecstatic, too many emotions flew in



We could call out using the sat phone here at the price 5 bucks per minute, by the time I went in and settled my luggage. Had a cup of tea and came out, there was a huge queue of people waiting to call up their loved ones, to let them know they are alive. It just gave me a gist of what army people would go through, what they have done for the country and what they are willing to do. The feeling was mixed as I stood almost an hour to make a call. Had to make another one, but could not as the phone ran out of the charge. Wondering how? So, here it is; sun! Yeah, the sun was not out whole day, the phone es charged with solar plates. No sun = No phone. Was still happy as I could be and was glad that I could reach out to my mom and tell her I was safe. I just stood for hours staring at this



This was our base, there were celebrations, there was meat for the meat eaters, there was booze for the drinkers there were celebrations all around and there was this little thought hitting my head 'it's over, from tomorrow it's the return leg, return legs are always painful'. With thoughts I was settling in the room trying to sleep.

Awesome photos- especially the frozen waterfall. How much does the chadar trek cost? Is it still around Rs.20,000 or has the price gone up ?

Awesome travelogue. Very well written and kudos for attempting this trek. One question I have is how you guys braved the altitude sickness or it does not set in at all?

Those are very kind words, I am glad I could be of some help.

Thank you!

Yes sir, it's done almost. Just a wee bit of the return journey is left out now. Thank you.

I'm glad I could get you involved.

Thanks for your kind words swapnil.

Wish you a safe journey and do prep yourself mentally too. The body can take the abuse provided the mind is prepped. I went through a few people I know, but was bascially through altitude adventures.
Here is their link http://altitudeadventure.in/about.html

It's great to have you on the same tempo for trance! Thanks!

Thanks! The frostbite or hypothermia? If you are talking about hypothermia, it would typically take somewhere around 8-10 minutes to set in for the first stage, also depends on the wind and other factors.

+1 to that.

The price is in that ball court, again there are very costly ones too. Who give you a little more premium stuff out there. But basic ones cost you around 20 grand.

Thank you, the altitude sickness did hit a little when I landed at ladakh. The body went under a great shock, but just few basic precautions and a little time to the body, for acclimatization.

Hi Hardik, did not realise that my neck started paining because I was "neck deep" reading your travelogue. Like everyone else said and used adjectives like amazing, excellent, mesmerizing which are very true, what intrigues me the most is how vividly you remembered and described every single moment with the exact emotions felt it the mind at those moments. Am sure you wouldn't have been able to take notes then. Hats of to you bro, not only for this challenging journey, but sharing it in so much detail with us. Almost felt like a well directed movie that pulls you deep inside wanting for more. Keep it up bro:thumbs up

I just did a road trip to the hills here in Bengal and abt to write my first travelogue. Just wondering the simpest way to edit pics. Any tips coz ur photos are amazing too!

Wow!! This is some expedition you've been on Hardik. Bravo :Cheering:. I haven't really seen such treks myself or through others lenses. Once again Kudos mate clap:

Excellent photos Hardik. Loved reading this travelogue. ONe que - this thread started in April and ends now. What happened in between :)

Superb narrative style and mind blowing photographs !! Thanks for writing such a wonderful travelogue, adding this to the list of my favourites on tbhp.

Wonderful write-up and great pictures, Hardik. I'm sure the trip was once in a lifetime experience ! :thumbs up

However, one thing that I couldn't understand or maybe I missed reading it in the write-up. How did you do Chadar in 2015 when the entire route was out of bound for even villagers !

Here's a thread which details out why the route was out of bound: Chadar Trek cancelled for 2015


I was told that only one initial batch of trekkers were able to complete the trek, post which the situation had worsened and the trek had been called off. Were you a part of the first batch? Could you please let me know the dates, 17th or 18th Jan was the first batch IIRC.

I was scheduled to cover Chadar in Feb '15, but sadly the Master had different plans and I was able to do an alternate but beautiful trek from Lamayuru to Konski La.

A link to my travelogue: Winter sojourn to Ladakh


I know of atleast one more bhpian sayakc, who was supposed to do Chadar as well but couldn't do as the trek was called off by the Govt Authorities.

A link to fellow bhpian sayakc's travelogue: The Air I Breathe


If you were indeed a part of the first/initial batch of trekkers this year, could you please share pics of the temporary lake that had formed near Shaday Sumdo due to the blockage/landslide as it was the main reason why the subsequent batches couldn't complete this trek. I would love to see the pics, and with your permission can share it with my fellow trek-mates of our batch so that they can also see what exactly had happened owing to the blockage as when we were there, things were a little uncertain and we never got the true picture.

Regardless of this, a wonderful travelogue mate ! :)

Thanks! Well, about the photos I'm not a pro I just try learn on the ground and experiment. But while taking the photos there are few basic rules which follow and post processing has an equal weightage. I mostly shot in RAW format when on the trek, as minute adjustments were impossible to make in the environment and corrected them later. If you have a DSLR the first thing what we should follow is 'Manual'! Always shoot in manual and play around with the settings to get a hang of it.

Thank you!

Thanks! I had initially started drafting the log and working on the photos it consumes humongous amount of time, while doing so I had to catch up with my work and post that few treks around bangalore (Added photos and processing). Then there was another expedition to ladakh from bangalore lined up, so was prepping up for that and I am happy to tell it went successful. :) Will posting a log about the latter one in near future. So while I started working on the new ladkhian log I realized I need to finish up this piece and ended up working on this!


Well, I was part of the first and the only batch to complete this in Jan 2015. I guess that will clear up all your doubts, at least most of em. As far as I remember I had started the trek on 10th of Jan. I will post the details of the proceedings. But yes, it was very sad and very annoying to see the people back in ladakh, not only that but the cancellation of the chadar costed the locals a lot as they stock up all the groceries way prior to the trek.
When I got back from trek I saw many folks negotiating for the alternate treks and refunds. I will be more than happy to help you guys with all the information I have! The subsequent treks were cancelled as a reservoir was formed due to the landslides and was a huge amount of water accumulated. Had this dam which was made due to the landslide broken down it would wipe away all the villages and campsites. I will try pulling up the notice given out by ladakh authorities about the situation and post it.

Well great, answers all my questions.:thumbs up

I have seen the notice that was issued by the authorities, also true that many arrangements had to be cancelled which had costed the organizers and porters a lot of money and effort. But thankfully, the issue was taken up in top priority, villages were evacuated and trekking routes were closed. Not a single life was lost and there was no major damage to property as well, but sadly the ecology has been disturbed.

Brilliant Brilliant Photos and Love the Tag Lines for each photos clap:

Looks like you had a wonderful time on this trip and a dream fulfilled.

Regards

@bhansali_hardik,

Great write up. It's been almost two years since I've started my job, and I've been itching for a trek!

Your travelogue was the spark I needed to ignite that fire.

Great experience, really!