Starting with the famous disclaimer – “This is my first attempt at writing a small travelogue. Please pardon me for any minor discrepancy in facts and figures. Also, hoping against hope – that you bear with my writing”.
Though I am a believer of the quote made by an anonymous – “
We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us” – but a simple sentence uttered in a light hearted yet soulful voice by our very own Feluda in the famous scene where he, Topshe and Jatayu starts the camel ride in the desert in the iconic movie Sonar Kella and says –
“Chaliye ji Ramdeora !” – strikes a chord or two more in my ears than the above quote.
Indecisiveness regarding getting leaves sanctioned from office, kids’ tutor and activities takes a second seat invariably when I hymn the words “Chaliye Ji Ramdeora !” And that’s how the trip to Murshidabad was planned.
Murshidabad, the last capital city of independent Bengal before the British rule was named after Nawab Murshid Quli Khan, the Dewan of Bengal, Bihar and Orissa. Situated on the banks of the Bhagirathi, it is a city of splendours and is famous for its silk. It was made the capital of Bengal in 1717. Basked in the history, the town has witnessed the rise and fall of the Nawabs of Bengal and shifting of powers to the British empire. Nearby attractions include the famous Hazarduari, Nizamat Imambara, Katra Mosque, Jahankosa Cannon to name a few.
Based on the reviews in TRipadvisor and some Googling, booked Hotel Fame in Baharampur which is about 12 odd kms from Murshidabad town. Next job was the all important Drive Route Finalization. A loud shout out to BHPian
gmhossain for all the help in finalizing the route.
Here’s the finalized route:
New Garia – Airport – Madhyamgram crossing – Kalyani Expressway – Kampa crossing – Bara Jaguli
NH-34: Bara Jaguli - Krishnanagar
SH-11: Krishnanagar – Tehatta – Betai --Karimpur - Domkal – Berhampore (Baharampur)
Total Kms – 286
The Tourists: Son Daughter Better Half Myself
And …..
Our Chariot..our LUV..Ertiga Day 1:
The cool breeze of the November morning was blowing , the soft rays of the sun was just beginning to spread in, the dew drops still keeping the grass fresh – our beloved LUV Ertiga set out towards Baharampur – it was 5:50 AM by my watch.
Soon crossed airport, Madhyamgram and took the Kalyani Expressway.
One thing that caught our attention in this stretch was some local motor vans plying full sized boats. We tried to take snaps of them but they crossed us in no time. Speed 2 in different avatar..ehh : )
After Cola (read Kampa crossing), Milk (preaching to kids on milk production at Haringhata) and jug full of tea – Bara Jug-guli (read filling the flask at Bara Juguli ) – lots of drink, I believe
3-4 Kms after Bara Jaguli is having not-so-good roads but once that ends, there’s no looking after. One can see the 4-lane work is in progress on NH34.
Reached Krishnanagar around 9:45 and stopped for breakfast at a local roadside eatery near Nabadwip more. Had a relishing breakfast with Luchi, Cholar Dal, Rajbhog and Tea. Its time to hit the road again..
The town of Krishnanagar was preparing for the Kali Puja with last minute decoration of pandals and lighting.
Left the NH34 and took SH11 instead and passed by Ghurni, the pottery area famous for clay and fibre glass idols.
Once we zipped past the outskirts of Krishnanagar, road quality became excellent coupled with good scenic beauty. Shutterbugs would have loved to capture the contrast of the high and low keys created by the intermittent shadows by the trees forming a canopy on the roads and rays of sun emanating from it.
With “Aao Milo Chalo” by Shaan from the film Jab we Met creating melodies and reaching every corner of the cabin of Ertiga, wished the drive continues for miles ahead…and it did continue. Continued on SH11 and crossed Betai, Karimpur, Domkal and reached Baharampur town at around 12:45. Thereafter it took another 45 minutes to negotiate the unruly traffic of the town and reach our hotel. Hotel Fame was really cozy and had all the necessary amenities.
Oops !! This doesn’t look good for a family pic : ) Forgot to switch between the specs and the sun shade
View from our room
Lunch at Hotel Fame
Getting ready for some shopping
No wonder, the evening was spent in the Khagra region shopping for the famous Murshidabad silk as it was “the” agreement set previously before the tour
Day 2:
The day started with sipping on hot tea and standing on the small balcony of our room and breathe in the fresh air and soaking in the quiet charm of the place around our hotel
After breakfast, set out for the drive to Murshidabad
The feeling of frustration in again negotiating the unruly traffic of Baharampur soon after getting out of the hotel transformed totally when we took the road to Murshidabad. With Bhagirathi flowing beside us and the road taking turns and with less traffic, the drive was an instant mood-lifter.
Historical places have its own little bitter-sweet stories apart from the famous ones depicted in history, and who else but a local guide can string those stories !! The guide named Pokhraj Hossain first took us to the Moijheel and the associated Jama Masjid. Motijheel, is a horse-shoe shaped lake created by Nawazish Muhammad Khan, the son-in-law of Nawab Alivardi Khan. He constructed a precious palatial palace beside this lake which is called the Sang-i- dalan ("stone palace") which is also known as the Motijhil Palace.
According to local saying, Nawab Alibardi Khan used to come regularly to the mosque to offer prayer. His eldest daughter Ghasati Begum adopted Ekramulla ,the younger brother of Siraj-ud-Daula, as her son. When Ekramulla died at a young age, Nawaej Muhammad Khan, the husband of Ghasati Begum could not bear the shock and died shortly afterwards. Both of them were buried side by side in the precinct of the mosque.
The wall that survived cannon attack when British tried to find the said hidden treasure of Ghasseti Begum
A family pic right at the entrance of the Motijheel and the mosque
Keeping Murshidabad station on our right our next destination was Jahankosa cannon. The cannon is made of 8 metals (aastadhatu) and more than 17ft long. There is a saying that previously it rested on a cart and was surrounded by the roots of a Peepal tree. Later on this cannon was lifted four feet from the ground but the roots surrounded it so beautifully that it had no chance of falling down. The cannon is currently being rested on the erstwhile Topekhana or the artillery park of the Nawabs.
Kids having fun
We all posed for photo shoots at some point of the time by now. How can we leave our LUV behind!! Our dusky brown Ertiga, isn’t it photogenic on the backdrop of the famous Katra Mosque !!
The Katra Masjid (also known as Katra Mosque) is a mosque and the tomb of Nawab Murshid Quli Khan built between 1723 and 1724. Erected on an elevated platform with an open courtyard surrounded by double-storeyed cells, with four massive Minars at four corners with staircase inside, it commences a special style in Bengal.
The art work