Friends,
I bought
RMLC on 1 November 2015. As a married man and a father, I don't get much time to ride. I did the quick
Abhaneri ride to complete the run-in for the first service.
But the big daddy ride was yet to come - a Christmas ride to be part of the All India Meet (AIM) for the
HVK Forum on Facebook.
The HVK AIM - some Context
Before I dive further, a quick note on the AIM. This group holds their annual meet somewhere less touristy (ergo Shoja over Shimla!) and motoring enthusiasts from around the country (and abroad) drive down to the place in convoys! It is a staggering effort, mind boggling by every means. The organization was simply crazy - they had thought about everything in advance - the
FAQ was a work of art. They had a dedicated set of volunteers and clear communication channels. The marketing for the destination was so masterfully done on FB by HVK -it deserves a case study in itself! Even on the drive - the day's destination wasn't revealed till the preceding day! My wife and colleagues were amused - I was going for a ride without knowing the destination. The organizers had allocated people to different whatsapp groups as well for coordination. Information flew thick and fast. They supported folks with on the go road updates / last-minute hotel bookings / restaurant advice / emergency repairs etc! In fact, struggling under a 24x7 project, I lost track of the messages and updates. That is why I took the RMLC. more on that later. Of course, bringing and accomodating 200 people (yes!) in such a small place results in painful compromises in terms of accomodation (families had the best acco, with others following in a logical hierarchy). Information flow to each member cannot be individually tailored either - there's the risk of feeling a bit lost and on your own at times. While no one's perfect and hindsight can be perfect, I think the team here did a pretty stupendous job. I am not sure if there are many volunteer events which can replicate this scale in this context.
Day 1 - 24 Dec
As life would have it - a project started shortly before the ride, and completely consumed all 24 hours of the day. I was swamped to the extent that I bought my new
riding gear within 1-7 days before the ride. Some like winter gloves were not even bought!
What that means is that I was able to set up my gear for the first time, about 15 min before the ride! Not a good position to be in, honestly. But I was getting to do a good long ride and I wasn't going to let anything come in the way.
There was a constant threat of fog in North India over the preceding days so the big group (70 cars/1 biker) had already reached Chandigarh on 23rd second half - they were planning on leave at 7am on the 24th. On a good day, I could leave Gurgaon by 1am and be in Chandigarh by 4:30/5am. But when things can go wrong -they usually go horribly wrong.
- Strike one: In my case courtesy all the work delays (and an uber that ran off with my gear!), I was able to leave at 0100 hours on the 24th with zero sleep in the tank.
- Strike two: The jugaad winter solution of silk hiking gloves under the summer gloves was a colossal disaster as soon as I crossed Delhi (warmer due to busy traffic). Even cheap "winter" gloves that I had as backup didn't work.
- Strike three: I had two punctures in quick succession near Murthal itself.
All of this meant regular breaks for punctures or to warm my freezing hands and by 5am I was at Karnal and was feeling really sleepy. As luck would have it, you have absolutely no hotels on the highway. A couple of places located in oyorooms weren't visible on the ground so I gave up on that and by the time I found one that did, I found out that they don't take guests for the same day checkout after 5am. Waste of an hour. So I ingested more caffeine and somehow stumbled over to an oyo in ambala by 7am. That was the slightly run down but totally VFM and safe Hotel Grace. I checked in quickly, paid the princely sum of 750 bucks for an 11am checkout, pre-ordered breakfast for another 300 and then went to sleep. Clearly I was not going to ride with the convoy!
On the Banur-kharar road:
Woke up at 11 and then I got out in half an hour, eager to hit the road. By around 2pm I was near Kiratpur sahib, but a timely call from Tanveer told me to avoid the Bilaspur mess and instead take the yummy twisties via Una. Coming from him, I instantly changed my plans and rode on to Una. The road from Una to Mandi was simply amazing. It is a must do for bikers - there is next to zero traffic, the corners are wide and sweeping with very little gravel / potholes.
Things were going good and I was having fun till I hit Kalkhar - a small village 12km before joining the manali highway at NerChowk. Those were the absolute worst 12km to ride on - full of gravel and loose rubble. Took me well nearly 1-1.5 hours just to cross them. Regardless, it was now 7pm and the destination was 90km away! I wasn't sure whether dinner would still be available when I reached so I stopped half an hour to have my long delayed lunch. Another bad idea. The food was good though. Its a nondescript little dhaba, 3km after mandi just after the IOC pump on the RHS. If in doubt, ask the BPCL Mandi pump staff for the best dhaba in town!
One advantage of night riding in these parts is the near-absence of traffic. So I had a blast, covering the ~60km on narrow roads from the dhaba till Jibhi (a village 7km before Shoja) in just 1.5 hours. Just before Jibhi I met a convoy of AIM cars and one of them told me to head on to Shoja for dinner. Except the scenery got positively cooler as I got closer. After Jibhi, I could see the mountain having a snow cover and occasional patches of snow on the side. I was priding myself on finally catching up with the group and looked forward to a good night's sleep, when my day dreaming was broken and I was stranded on this big stretch of black ice next to a piddly stream. This is something I have always anticipated and avoided/managed in most of my past himalayan rides, but completely forgot about, in this one! Doesn't look menacing does it?
What followed was much drama - I was stuck there , standing in the exact same position in sub-zero water, for almost 30 min till the next AIM convoy arrived. They were coming down from Shoja for staying in the various rest houses in Jibhi. The first good samaritan on the scene said while coming up to me - oh Ice? No tension. We'll have you out in a ..... bang! Just as he came closer, he slipped. The next gent also tried to reach out to hold the bike as he reached, and promptly fell. Now that these gents understood my concerns in depth, the whole gang (some ten odd folks) started deliberating. Initial attempts to lift the bike after removing luggage failed - the CBR is 170 kg! The bike had skidded in this period to be pointing to the hill while its tail was ~2m from the edge. Finally an offroader, Vipul (?) suggested that someone should press down on the rear tyre to give it more traction. That was enough to get me out of the immediate black ice and park the bike on the shoulder of the hill. Temperature outside was in the vicinity of -10 with winds!
With the bike parked - I jumped into Vipul's Pajero Sport (the only car I'd trust at that time!) for the short ride into Jibhi. I was allocated into the Jungle Book homestay where the lovely ladies of the house cooked some finger licking good dal-rice for me at 12:30 am! I tucked into the bed under a few layers of quilts and dozed off in the company of my Kindle.
Here are some pics taken while I picked up the bike the next day:
Days 2/3 of the ride will follow later in the day in subsequent posts!
All pics from the phone. Apologies for any low quality pics!