[surjaonwheelz]

Hello Travellers,

With Independence day & Rakshabandhan holidays giving us a 3 days window for a road trip. We wanted to avoid the 15th August rush hence set out on the 16th of August from Pune.

Preparations:
Team-bhp travelogues,
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/assem...ora-caves.html (770 Kms, 3 days & a glimpse of a Bygone Era: Ajanta and Ellora Caves)
and
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/assem...ta-ellora.html (Lalu's first trip - Mumbai to Ajanta & Ellora)

Thanks guys for your efforts to share the information required. Please get specific information there.

Teaser images:

16th August 2016, 6:30 am, what a sight to set off for a trip, Jai Hind!


Somewhere between Ahmednagar and Aurangabad on SH60.


MTDC, Ajanta Tourist Resort, Fardapur.


Panoramic view of Ajanta caves


Panoramic view from Ajanta View Point


Panoramic view from Daulatabad Fort


Day 1: Pune to Ajanta Tourist Resort (MTDC)
- 344 kms on the odo took almost 7 hours including stops
- Took the Ahmednagar bypass road to Aurangabad by mistake! Terrible roads, please avoid and go through Ahmednagar town instead.
- It takes a lot of time to cross Aurangabad, potholes & traffic contribute to the delay.
- Aurangabad to Ajanta through Jalgaon road was decent to good. Its a major state highway with small ghat sections.
- Left Pune at 6:30 am, reached around 13:30, dumped luggage, and after a quick lunch at MTDC restaurant, headed to Ajanta Caves by 14:30.
- Caves close at 17:30, from parking take the bus to the caves
- Ajanta is all about paintings which are preserved. No flash usage
- Caves are illuminated by artificial lights
- Hire a guide for 1,250/- for the tour if you want (We didn't)

Ajanta images:

The first few glimpses of the Ajanta Caves. Long way to go, let's buckle up!




Ajanta is all about images.




Array of Buddha images. If you hire a guide they show you with their torch different aspects of these paintings.


The paintings are very well preserved.


Lava design ceiling.


Most of the caves here have a seated Buddha statue as a shrine performing a 'mudra' with his hands.


Standing sculptures of Buddha.



In Ajanta one has to go up/down to see the caves.




Almost half way here.


Still a lot to see.


A regular stupa.


We have covered all these caves.


The last leg of caves.


Here you have an option to go down. We chose to cover the remaining caves.


Seated Buddha shrine performing a specific mudra.



A different mudra.


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[surjaonwheelz]

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Ajanta images:

These images I first saw on TBHP thread, was happy to click them again! They were carved at the corner of a pillar and the ceiling.

The paintings are illuminated with focused lights. You have to be patient to get a good sharp click.

Paintings on the wall

Paintings on the ceiling


The outside of the caves were marvelously carved with statues depicting stories.


A stupa with standing Buddha!


The low-light photography took a toll on my camera's battery pack and at this point it gave up! There were some excellent structures in the last few caves including that of the sleeping Buddha which I failed to capture. But as they say it's all about memories that you make in these places!

- Ajanta view point is 22 kms from Ajanta caves. You have to go back 14 kms (towards Sillod) and take a 8 kms detour to the location. Must see!
- We left for the view point at 18:00 from Ajanta caves and were there till sunset! Returned to MTDC Ajanta Tourist Resort to retire for the day.

Ajanta view point images:


Day 2: Ajanta to Ellora to Aurangabad
- 100 kms Ajanta to Ellora via Phulambri, roads are pretty good even after monsoons. Its a 2 lane road without dividers. Some patches have potholes post Monsoon.
- We headed first to Grushneshwar Jyotirling temple. No cameras & mobiles are allowed inside the temple. There is a deposit center just out side the temple.
- At noon there is a scheduled arati, please try to reach before that! We had darshan before that.

- Ellora is 500 meters behind Grushneshwar temple. They have closed the parking in the Ellora compound. Just before however, there is an elevated parking area in front of a private restaurant for free.
- Same routine, take the bus to reach the farthest point (Cave 34)
- There is a beautiful waterfall near cave 29. Monsoon treat, must see!
- Cave 16 is right at the centre and you'll be awed by the structure and the fact that it is carved out of the mountain, top to bottom, outside to inside!
- Lunch at MTDC Ellora restaurant, plain and simple.

Ellora images: Jain Caves (31 to 34) to start with.
Cave 34

Plenty of bats in the dark parts of the caves.

Plenty of statues to look at in every direction.



One of the many exquisite pillars you'll find in Ellora.

Here you get to see temples



Cave 31


After seeing cave 31, you have to wait for a return bus to board. The next stop is Cave 29, ask the bus driver to stop at the waterfall (dhabdhaba in Marathi). You have to walk up around 250 meters from the bus stop.
Cave 29

The monsoon delight, waterfall.


Cave 29 has some of the largest human/God statues you can see in Ellora. The pictures speak for themselves.









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[surjaonwheelz]

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Ellora images: Structures of Cave 29



After seeing Cave 29 you have to return to the bus stop and board a returning bus to the next cluster of caves. This will be your last bus ride in Ellora! You enter the cluster at cave 20, we started going left till cave 28.



Sculptures galore





Keep walking left to see some more caves till you get to see the waterfall from the other side (Remember cave 29?)




The mesmerizing waterfall is back!

The wind was blowing so strong that it almost blew the water away.

As you can see there is a walkway behind the waterfall which was closed.

Serene view from Cave 28.


From Cave 28 you have to walk back to cave 20 and then towards Cave 16. There are detours which take you above the caves from here (below image) from where you can see the water fall from above.


Cave 16 - Kailash Temple


Statues at the entrance.


Exquisite pillar



The entire structure is chiseled out of the mountain, just remarkable! Notice how in the background you can see the mountain rock from which it was carved out. According to scriptures outside the temple, it took 600 years and 10 generations to complete the herculean task! Every possible surface here has sculptures carved on them. You are bound to loose track of time here. Go through the pictures below but these pictures don't do justice to the original structure, must see!





















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[surjaonwheelz]

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Ellora caves: Buddhist caves, Caves 1 to 15. Located on the right side of Cave 16. We were tired and hungry at this time but we covered them from a distance.
















- Ellora to Daulatabad on the way to Aurangabad was our next stop.
- Steep climb to the summit but you must go till the 'Mendha' canon site.
- Moved to Aurangabad and put up in Keys hotel near Kranti chowk area. The walk inside Ellora and the trek to Daulatabad fort had taken a toll on us!

Daulatabad images:

Daulatabad canons

Look up close, those are not fruits!

Monkey tree

Chand minar, against the sun.

Lawns well maintained as they were closed!

Chand minar

The gradient increases through the second gate

View of the Chand minar through a broken arch

The Fort is so strategically located that no walk way points directly to it.

'Mendha' canon, must see

The view from the canon base, worth the trek!


Day 3: Aurangabad to Pune
- Bibi ka Maqbara and Panchakki was in our list before leaving Aurangabad.
- Visited Bibi ka Maqbara at 11:00 am and it is a true replica of the Taj Mahal. It is a bit neglected by ASI, you can see grass growing on the towers!
- From here you can see the Aurangabad caves, they are a bit steep to climb and we skipped it.
- Panchakki or water mill is near to Bibi ka Maqbara right between a busy road. Parking woes galore. When we reached there was a bad traffic jam at that place, I strolled down to the entry gate and the place didn't interest me much.

Bibi ka Maqbara images:

The first view

Notice the similarity! Marble is used only at the base and top of the monument.

Exquisite work in the arches.

One of the 4 minars.

Up close

You really can't get enough.

The blue sky was the perfect background.


Aurangabad caves as seen from Bibi ka Maqbara:

Notice the steep flight of rock cut stairs:


- Left from Aurangabad at 12:30, took half an hour to negotiate local traffic and hit the state highway.
- Reached Ahmednagar around 15:00 traversed through the city traffic to head along the Ahmednagar-Pune highway
- There is a nice highway food joint after you leave Ahmednagar, Smile Stone. Stopped for late lunch.
- Plan was to touch base to Pune before 18:00 to avoid the office leaving rush (Thursday). There was very slow moving traffic at junctions on Nagar road, Ranjangaon, Shikrapur, Lonikand and Wagholi.
- Navigated through to reach Kaharadi before 18:00 and home by 19:00 (Dapodi)

Notes:
- Avoid the bypass from Ahmednagar, don't follow the road signs to Aurangabad while entering Ahmednagar. Follow Ahmednagar directions instead and once in the town follow road signs to Aurangabad.
- There are no tolls between Pune and Aurangabad and even to Ajanta. Separate free lanes are marked for 'cars/jeeps' which allow free transit. Even if you enter a toll gate request the operator to open it and he obliges.
- Weekdays trip (Tue-Thu) was a boon. My funda is farthest first so that you can cover the maximum distance and visit the remaining spots on your return journey.
- MTDC is very good. Opt for AC rooms not for the AC but AC implies Deluxe rooms!
- Maharstra Tourism has done a great job in maintaining these historical places but the tourists are to blame for littering.
- Please buy the Ajanta-Ellora booklet which will be sold to you first by vendors, it has all the information.
- Carry a bottle of glucose drink (Tang/Glucon-D) as its tiring to see all and you shouldn't miss any.
- In Ajanta please wear slippers or floaters as you have to take it off to enter most of the caves.
- The weather was great, sunny with cool breeze. Post monsoon everything was green.
- Special thanks to Team-BHPian sukiwa for his guidance (Experience matters)
- My friend and road trip inspiration ARAY who helped me in putting up this travelogue.
- Last but not the least my wife who is always a sport for such road trips.
- Our car, Honda Brio performed flawlessly for 780 kms in 3 days returning 18+ kmpl (overall as per MID trip info) with the AC always ON.

Drive safe
-Surja

[ARAY]

A great blog there Surya and some great Images. The road conditions described would help us travelers a lot for reference. In the small window you have covered great many places. Thanks for sharing.

[Aditya]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[anand.shankar]

Awesome and detailed log.

It's sad when you realize it took 600yrs and generations to build it but only needed a bunch of morons to scar it so bad.

[ManishSoni]

I have some memories of visiting Ajanta caves, when I was around 10 years old. I can distinctly remember the portraits where eyes follow you when you shift sideways, and collecting some crystal stones from waterfalls. Wanted to go there once again since long, and this thread has now just increased the itch

Thanks a lot for sharing this travelogue, and great pics.

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by ARAY

A great blog there Surya and some great Images. The road conditions described would help us travelers a lot for reference. In the small window you have covered great many places. Thanks for sharing.

This forum is so helpful for these updates, I've learnt from here! We covered maximum possible in the small window. Still we didn't summit Daulatabd Fort, it's a half day activity. If you stay for one more day in Aurangabad then you can visit a nearby hill station, Mhaismal. Again, the pictures don't do justice to the actual thing.

Originally Posted by anand.shankar

Awesome and detailed log.

It's sad when you realize it took 600yrs and generations to build it but only needed a bunch of morons to scar it so bad.

Both Ajanta and Ellora are very well maintained. But you can't put sense into every tourist. Some odd ones will litter without caring a bit!

Originally Posted by ManishSoni

I have some memories of visiting Ajanta caves, when I was around 10 years old. I can distinctly remember the portraits where eyes follow you when you shift sideways, and collecting some crystal stones from waterfalls. Wanted to go there once again since long, and this thread has now just increased the itch

Thanks a lot for sharing this travelogue, and great pics.

There were plenty of 'Quartz' crystals rocks being sold by the local vendors when we visited. The amount of creativity portrayed in these paintings/structures is immense!

Thank you all for your comments.

Also, I wanted to add one point that Ellora caves is 'Wheel-chair' friendly. I noticed ramps in most of the caves. If this is useful to anyone please consider.

happy travelling,
-Surja

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by anand.shankar

Awesome and detailed log.

It's sad when you realize it took 600yrs and generations to build it but only needed a bunch of morons to scar it so bad.

Hey, there is a mistake in the information, it's 200 years! Refer image below. Sorry for the confusion.


Cheers,
Surja

[anand.shankar]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

Both Ajanta and Ellora are very well maintained. But you can't put sense into every tourist. Some odd ones will litter without caring a bit!

-Surja

Yup sure looks well maintained. I actually meant the invaders from the west who damaged many of our historical monuments including this one.

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

Hey, there is a mistake in the information, it's 200 years! Refer image below. Sorry for the confusion.

Cheers,
Surja

Thanks

[aviat18]

Thanks for the detailed travelogue!

I am embarking on a similar journey on the upcoming weekend (3-5 Sep), and would like to know the state of road between Aurangabad and Ajanta. Is it advisable to take your own vehicle? I would be staying overnight at Aurangabad and visit Ajanta Caves on the morning of 4th.

Thanks in advance,
Avishek

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by aviat18

Thanks for the detailed travelogue!

I am embarking on a similar journey on the upcoming weekend (3-5 Sep), and would like to know the state of road between Aurangabad and Ajanta. Is it advisable to take your own vehicle? I would be staying overnight at Aurangabad and visit Ajanta Caves on the morning of 4th.

Thanks in advance,
Avishek

Absolutely doable in your own car! There is only one route from Aurangabad through Phulambri, Sillod and then to Ajanta. As I have mentioned its a state highway without divider in most parts with minor ghats. There are potholes in some stretches which you can negotiate through. Roads in Aurangabad are in very bad condition, pot holes and speed breakers will unsettle you! It'll take you close to 2 hours. Put "Ajanta Caves T Point" in Google maps or follow Maharashtra Tourism road signs (boards with brown background).
Don't miss the "Upper View Point Ajanta Caves", trust the Maharashtra Tourism road directions!

Happy travelling,
-Surja

[timuseravan]

Originally Posted by aviat18

Thanks for the detailed travelogue!

I am embarking on a similar journey on the upcoming weekend (3-5 Sep), and would like to know the state of road between Aurangabad and Ajanta. Is it advisable to take your own vehicle? I would be staying overnight at Aurangabad and visit Ajanta Caves on the morning of 4th.

Thanks in advance,
Avishek

If you have not booked already, I would recommend to travel directly to Ajanta on 3rd and stay at some hotel nearby. That way you can visit Ajanta caves early morning on 4th before the hordes of tourists and school trips descend on the place.

[aviat18]

Originally Posted by timuseravan

If you have not booked already, I would recommend to travel directly to Ajanta on 3rd and stay at some hotel nearby. That way you can visit Ajanta caves early morning on 4th before the hordes of tourists and school trips descend on the place.

Unfortunately I have booked my stay at Aurangabad. However, shouldn't a 6.30 AM start on 4th help me beat the rush?