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Introduction:
Back in May, 2016, I took the opportunity to drive up the hills, with my parents. That was when we first took our Ikon to Darjeeling. I had in mind that some personal experience with hill driving would help in the future when I take a more challenging terrain. Reference to the Darjeeling trip:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...h-machine.html
It was around the same time (May 2016) that my fiancée and I had planned to buy a Thar; "When to buy it", was still not decided. Our wedding was planned for 3rd July 2016. Thanks to BHPian Blackpearl we have a thread detailing the drive taken by BHPians from Kolkata to Bhopal to attend our wedding.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...s-wedding.html). My fiancée and I had a plan to drive to Ladakh in the future; Not as a honeymoon destination (less people think we had gone crazy ;)).
Gauging our seriousness and determination, my dad found it justified that we go ahead and book the Thar as early as possible. After the trip to Darjeeling, in the end of May we booked the Thar. My fiancée and I took delivery of the Thar on 10th June, 2016. Now we had a new vehicle and a destination, so a trip could be planned. Planning for the trip went on alongside the major marriage arrangements.
After a lot of discussion the trip was finally scheduled for the last two weeks of August. Having no other travellers joining us for the trip we were initially hesitant, but our determination did not allow us to delay our trip on this count. Detailed planning and preparation started after we returned from our honeymoon, a month before the start of the Ladakh Trip.
Arrangements and Planning: Arrangements for the Thar:
Since the vehicle was new, there was not much to be done. After the initial running in (The first 1,000 miles. Start with gentle driving around town so everything, including brakes, can bed in. Avoid harsh acceleration and heavy braking if you can. For diesels, keep engine revs below 3,000 rpm, but make sure they regularly reach this limit.), I took the Thar to Mohan Motors to get the vehicle inspected, a week before the trip, and keep necessary supplies of essential fluids (coolant, engine oil, brake fluid), a spare air filter and few extra fuses.
The Thar Ready 
It was around June end when Debarshi (handle debarshim), working in the same organisation as me, noticed my Thar and we had a small chat. On hearing my plans for the Ladakh drive he was extremely helpful in providing a lot of information from his past trips to the place. He shared few maps, details on the route, places one can visit, etc. To top it all he offered me the jerry cans for the long stretch that we had to cover without any fuel stations (Leh-Pangong-Hanle-Tso Moriri-Tandi).
My wife (Bhavneet) and I went to their place and picked up the jerry cans and other items which they had ready from their numerous trips (tow rope, fire extinguisher, oxygen can).
I also picked up Sumitro's (aka BlackPearl) jerry can which was the third. Now I had 60L, Thar's tank capacity and 20*3=60L jerry can capacity.
We picked food items from Metro Cash & Carry a week before the trip.
Thanks to HVK for his assistance and support throughout the trip. Being just both of us travelling, we were happy to take his services. The knowledge that HVK was monitoring and overseeing our trip made us feel we were being accompanied by a guardian.
Thanks to the ROAD group as well for alerting us of any possible problems coming up en-route and keeping an eye on us.
The major goods were loaded the night before we were to move and the final packing was done early in the morning (still night for usual people)
Medicines 
The packed rear of the Thar 
Arrangements for self:
We made a short visit to Decathlon along with BHPians Sayantan and Pawan. We were suggested some items to be carried and landed up picking the following:
- Quick dry towels
- A 10L carry bag
- 2 wind/rain cheaters
Route planning:
Since the curfews and unrest were still prevailing at Jammu, we did not think much and decided on the Manali route.
Final Itinerary:
13th August - Kolkata - Allahabad
14th August - Allahabad - Karnal
15th August - Karnal - Mandi
16th August - Mandi - Jispa
17th August - Jispa - Leh
18th August - Leh - Lamayuru - Leh
19th August - Leh - Khardungla - Leh and Rest
20th August - Leh - Pangong
21st August - Pangong - Hanle
22nd August - Hanle - Tso Moriri
23rd August - Tso Moriri - Jispa
24th August - Jispa - Mandi
25th August - Mandi - Karnal
26th August - Karnal - Allahabad
27th August - Allahabad - Kolkata
The return leg was slightly altered to the following
23rd August - Tso Moriri - Keylong
24th August - Keylong - Kharar (near Chandigarh)
25th August - Kharar - Spent family time
26th August - Kharar - Allahabad
Day 1 - 13th August - Kolkata - Allahabad
We left home at around 3 AM, my parents, uncle and aunt decided to see us off till Azad Hind Dhaba (AHD) on NH2 which is around 70 kms from our home.
Here begins the trip 
During our drive till AHD the 4H indication light started flickering on the console. I thought that engaging and disengaging 4H would help, the result was that the indication light remained on instead of flickering now. Engaging 4L and disengaging it did not help either. With none of them engaged, the lights for both 4L and 4H were still on, in the console.
We reached AHD finally and started googling possible causes for this flaw. Thanks to my uncle, we both got under the Thar and looked for any hints to correct it. We found the cables that went to read the engagement sensor, cleaned the same and gave a few punches so that a stuck mechanical sensor would release in that case. This did not help instantaneously, the light would not turn off. However, when we were done with breakfast and were about to start from AHD, the lights did not display again, god knows what helped exactly!
BHPian, Arunashish and his wife were going to Gaya from their home in Asansol the same morning. We planned and met them at Topchachi where we had tea and then tailed them till the Gaya exit point. It was a short but nice meet. They had done Ladakh recently and shared some notes and advice. Around 10 minutes before meeting Arunashish, a speeding Ecosport set off a stone chip at the Thar's windscreen that resulted in the below crack. And this was just the fourth hour of Day1 [:(].
The crack from the stone chip 
Arunashish's Figo and our Thar 
Because we stopped 
We had lunch near Aurangabad which was a long one hour break, at Hotel Vaishnavi Heights.
Lunch stop 
The stretch from Aurangabad to Varanasi was not great, it had diversions and bad roads.
Since it was
Sawan ka Mahina, Varanasi to Allahabad had a single lane functioning with the other lanes (lane from Allahabad to Varanasi) blocked for the Kanwar Yatra. [Details:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanwar_Yatra]
Since it was late evening, around 7 - 8 PM and the Kanwar Yatra people were less in number, many of us tried the wrong side of the divider, as the entire stretch from Varanasi to Allahabad was blocked with say, only 30% of the 120 kms stretch having good movement.
We were at our hotel (Hotel Saket) in Allahabad at 10:30 PM, had dinner and went off to sleep.
The place was not great, for instance:
Hotel Saket - Overall Rating: 2.5/5
Total kms driven: 846
Total expense on toll: Rs. 790/- Day 2 - 14th August - Allahabad - Karnal
We planned to leave early that day since we had to cover a long stretch to go. However, due to the long and difficult run we had the day before, we did not wake up that early. We started our journey at around 7-730.
Life on a long trip becomes a bit boring if not for some events to make the trip interesting. The odd cop can enter the scene to add some relief. This one took one look at us in our Thar and decided we looked like a good catch. With the authority at his command he asked us to park. Though Bhavneet was on the driver's seat he thought it better to go around and talk to me. "Car Papers." , he commanded. I handed him the neatly compiled set. He was a bit disappointed but did not give up. "The driver's licence." He was provided this too. "The car does not belong to her. Does she have an authorisation?" We had travelled with good guidance and were equipped with a notarised authority from my mother in who's name the Thar was registered. His ego had been inflicted with injury. He got ready for the next round. "More than two bags.", he said, "You can be booked for commercial carriage." This is when I took out my telephone and made a random call. I was advised to pay Rs 200 and get it over with. The cops senior who was watching the entire episode from afar and getting regular updates must have smelt a rat. He called our friendly cop back and asked us to proceed. In parting I gave him a friendly piece of advice asking him to better at spotting miscreants. He did not earn the tip he may be looking for and backed off telling us that he was only doing his duty. He was supposed to do a thorough check of randomly selected cars as the Independence day was around the corner and they were trying to anticipate and spot terror.
It pays to have your papers in order when away from home.
The roads from Allahabad to Karnal were super smooth, including a 165 kms Yamuna Expressway. We stopped for tea at a dhaba between Allahabad and Kanpur. Our Breakfast halt was just after crossing the Kanpur Bypass. Lovely Parathas for a hungry stomach. :) Our lunch halt was just before we got on to the Yamuna Expressway. Our next halt was near Murthal, at Neelkanth dhaba for tea. We finally reached Karnal at around 8 PM and checked in at Jewels Hotel. A lovely place. Had a decent dinner, Thai green curry - not recommended, and went to slept for the night.
Morning tea 
The roads 
Breakfast stop 
Lunch stop 
Diversion to Yamuna Expressway 
YEW 
Directions for Buddh International Circuit 
Tea halt 
And finally dinner at Jewel's 
Jewels Hotel - Overall Rating: 4/5
Total kms driven: 823
Total expense on toll: Rs. 767/-
Day 3 - 15th August - Karnal - Mandi Once you are in Punjab 
We relaxed and woke up pretty late on this day considering that a short distance was to be covered. However, we wanted to make a halt at by jijaji's place at Kharar (near Chandigarh). Since Raksha Bandhan(18th Aug) was around the corner, it was an ideal halt as we could meet by sister there. We reached at around 10 AM after a two hour drive from the hotel. We had a lovely breakfast prepared by my sister and completed the Raksha Bandhan rituals, took some rest and continued to Mandi.
Jijaji's place, their Verna parked ahead of our Thar
That is Didi, her father-in-law and Bhavneet, left to right
We had a stop for tea once we touched the hills. Later we halted at Green hills food point for lunch. It was a decent dhaba which was struggling with service as it was Independence day and most of the cooks/waiters were on leave. Lunch took us some time after which we got back to the drive.
The hills start with lots of diversions enroute 
Tea Stop 
Lunch stop 
The Scenic views 
One of many Bulleters' 
A board showing kms to destination 
It was a five hour journey from their place (jijaji's) to our destination for the day (Hotel Shingar). The hotel is along the highway on the left. There is no enclosed parking for vehicles at the hotel but ample security cameras to ensure safety of the vehicle. The route to Mandi showed us teasers of what was there to come. The hill drive had been beautiful with river Beas by our side for most of the drive.
The Thar parked at the Hotel, clicked from the second floor balcony infront of our room 
Hotel Shingar - Overall Rating: 3/5
Total kms driven: 340
Total expense on toll: Rs. 110/- Day 4 - 16th August - Mandi - Jispa
As suggested by HvK Sir, we had finalised our plan to get the first service of our Thar done at Mandi. I spoke to the service manager the previous night and he asked us to be there before 9:30 AM so that they could attend to us at the earliest. We got ready, had quick breakfast at our hotel and moved to the service station at Ner Chowk. Since we were a little too early we decided to get the vehicle washed outside to save some time. We got it washed at a local washing station and were back at the service center by 9:25 AM. They started working on the Thar while we were waiting at the waiting area enjoying coffee and a game of carrom. We were done by 11 AM since we did not opt for the car wash and we set off towards Manali.
Thar wash 
Thar service 
The permits were being taken care of by an agent (Mr. Sherab) who HvK Sir referred us to. We had our lunch at The Royal Grand. Clicked some pictures of the lovely views we got there. We co-ordinated with Sherab and got the permits delivered at a place, just before the entry to Manali. We were there by 3 PM and were advised to move slowly towards the Check Post at Gulaba as it would open only after 4 PM. We stopped and rearranged the luggage, stretched ourselves and headed to Gulaba. The permits were checked at 4:10 PM and we moved onward to Jispa.
Lunch halt 
Bhavneet was enthralled with the scenic beauty on the ascend to Rohtang La and she went on clicking pictures.
Coming at the river bed 
Driving through the clouds 
We stopped for a bit at RohtangLa for some quick shots. This was the first time we used warm clothes. I casually got off the car at Rohtang and got back in immediately as the cool wind hit me. We wore our jackets and then went to stand by the road sign announcing Rohtang, to get photographed.
Views 
To be continued.....
Clicks on the way 
The track 
Some water crossing, and people after good number of kms 
Good roads start 
Check post 
Happy with the road quality now 
On reaching Hanle it took some time for us to figure out the direction for our Hotel, a Local driving there in his EcoSport helped us with the same. We reached the hotel and alongside came the two riders. We were given our rooms while the riders negotiated their accommodation as well. We started chatting with the riders (Jasdeep and Nitin) and decided that we would go to the Hanle Observatory together after some maggi and tea. We also emptied the second jerry can of fuel before going to the observatory. We left for the observatory at about 4:30 PM as it closes at 6.
The Telescope operation is closed for maintenance for one month each year, during the monsoon. It is usually the month of August every year. We were explained the functioning of the Telescope and were also lucky to get the maintenance Engineer’s presentation from his laptop to view. The pictures and details in the presentation were very informative. During operation as well, one is not able to see any images from the Telescope as it is operated by research engineers from a remote location (Bangalore). We spoke to the staff and got to know that we could see both Mars and Venus in the night sky, which is visible from most parts of Ladakh. We noted the positions and were prepared to stare at the sky once the sun goes down.
Parked at the Observatory parking area 
Hanle from the top 
Jasdeep and Nitin walking up to the observatory 
Some information 
The observatory 
From the top 
Photo session 
Nitin, Jasdeep and me 
Dinner was laid by 8 and the sky was turning darker. We had the food and went on the terrace with the camera and tripod to gather few snaps. The night sky was lovely, beyond words, full of stars. I saw a couple of shooting stars as well while staring at the sky. The cold wind was making it difficult to stay there for long. We were off to bed soon after some chit chatting.
Night sky 
Padma Homestay - Overall Rating : 4/5
Total kms driven: 182
Total expense on toll: None Day 10 - 22th August - Hanle - Tso Moriri
The road till Loma was known to us, the same stretch back again. We started at around 9:30 AM. The roads fine till Karzok. One we entered the village the roads were bad, untill we reached the lake (Tso Moriri).
The Indian Wild Ass 
The patch of good road till Loma 
View of Tso Kyagar en-route 
Almost at our destination for the day 
The first views of the Lake 
Check post 
We were not pre-booked at Karzok, we stopped at the market area to look for options. We drove back from the market area and noticed a nice gate for a vehicle to enter, we took it in and found out about the place. It was the Nomadic Life Camp. I liked it since it had a parking facility. The other places, especially the camps near the lake required you to park in the open. After checking in and freshened up, we decided to go to the market area to eat something. We went there, ordered soup and maggi and heard the Royal exhaust note of Enfields. Jasdeep and Nitin had arrived there. They stopped for a while and then went to check on the camps near the lake. After eating we went down to the view point and clicked some pictures.
Some explanation regarding the view point: The so called view point, which is at the same level of the lake is usually closed. We assumed that it was closed and began to return to inquire about it. A local driver was taking few tourists for a view of the lake and asked us to follow him. He took us up to a small hill, through an off road track and we were then overlooking the lake.
The view point I was talking about 
The view from the top of the hill 
The view point from the top
The hill from the view point, see the cars going up on the right 
We were returning and saw the duo (Nitin and Jasdeep) going towards the view point. We joined them and walked by the lake. We took a number of pictures there and then made our return to the Camp. As usual we found out about the timing for power, so that we could charge the necessary equipment. We were also told of the dinner timing. We stared at the lake until it was dinner time. We had dinner strolled for a while and then prepared to sleep for the next day which was going to be a long and tiring one.
Walking along the lake 
I love them both 
Bhavneet, Me, Jasdeep and Nitin
Nomadic Life Camp - Overall Rating : 3.5/5
Total kms driven: 170
Total expense on toll: None
Day 11 - 23th August - TsoMoriri - Keylong
This day marked the beginning of our return journey. Being a long journey, estimated 13 hours, we decided to leave as early as possible. We had a quick breakfast and set off at 7:45 AM. The road was not great for most of the part after Loma. The better patch started from when we were able to see Tso Kar. Tso Kar had a different look altogether, a lot of white sand close to the lake gave a illusion of snowfall. The road connected to the Leh Manali highway at More Plains. We cruised along the plains and soon came to the bad roads at Pang. A short stop, where Jasdeep and Nitin joined us as well. Since they were on two wheels covering a huge distance on that day, they did not stop for long and pushed off while we had some maggi. As soon as we were going to leave, a Duster parked next to our Thar and out came Seshadri and family. We chatted for quite sometime and started our journey after an hour’s break. Thanks to chit chat :)
Fueling up before we start for the day 
Snow covering the mountain tops as we drive by 
Caught up with Jasdeep and Nitin as they ride towards Keylong 
Bad roads on the way 
Tso Kar 
Better roads as we reach Tso Kar 
Reached Leh-Manali highway 
More plains again 
Got two rainbows as we drove from Pang to Sarchu 
While driving from Pang, we came across a motorcycle that had lost control and fell while he took a Gata Loop shortcut. We offered help and got the Thunderbird back on road along with other group members. We checked the condition of the guy. Everything seemed in control and we began again. The passes en-route were no problem for us this time as we were well acclimatised.
We wanted to push to Keylong as we were reluctant to stay at the camp in Jispa once again. We reached Keylong market area, where Jasdeep and Nitin reached almost at the same time. We got our booking details from Hvk and recommended the same place to them. We unloaded our luggage at Hotel Valley View, had some snacks (early dinner actually) and came down to check Thar's health while Jasdeep and Nitin were checking their Enfields. They discovered a puncture in Nitin’s rear tyre and were off to the puncture repair shop with the help of the hotel owner. We checked the vehicle tyre pressure and filled the last 20L of fuel from the jerry can.
We had a peaceful sleep that night and had planned to go all the way to Kharar the next day, where my sister lives, instead of stopping at Mandi.
Caught up again after our break at Pang 
Saw this fleet of cyclists as we were nearing Jispa 
Hotel Valley View - Overall Rating : 3.5/5
Total kms driven: 341
Total expense on toll: None Day 12 - 24th August - Keylong to Kharar
Nothing special to note about this day's drive. The only detour we took was for lunch. Picked up Domino's Pizza from Kullu town.
We finally reached home late at night and didi had prepared the best dinner for us. After the type of food we were having for the last few days, barring the pizza that afternoon, the dinner was just brilliant.
View from Valley View Hotel 
Stand still traffic on the way back as we got heavy rainfall 
Finally at sister's place 
Sister's Place
Total kms driven: 433
Total expense on toll: None Day 13 - 25th August - At Kharar
This was our date to relax and enjoy with family. We got up at around 9 and had bed tea. Washed the Thar at home itself, placed everything more neatly and made some space in the rear so that my sister (Amrita) and my nephew could sit there for our evening drive to Chandigarh.
We were invited for lunch at my eldest sister's in-law's house who live very close by, in Kharar. Chatted for quite sometime and had a superb meal :)
We returned to Amrita di's place and then decided to go for a sector 17 tour, since there was a load shedding. We had plans to meet my uncle and family on the same day as they drove down from Ludhiana. After our sector 17 drive we met them at Sukhna lake. Lots of chit chatting and then headed to North Country mall. We had dinner there and returned home to sleep peacefully and get ready for the two long days to come.
At Sukhna Lake, Chandigarh
Bhavneet, Sister (amrita), Brother (Iktej), Myself, Nephew (Abhiroop) 
My Chachaji and Chachiji 
At the parking lot, saying good bye 
Sister's Place
Total kms driven: 48
Total expense on toll: None Day 14 - 26th August - Kharar - Allahabad
After a very sound sleep, we go ready for the highway and started at around 7:10 AM. The stretch on this day was so different from what we had seen from the past few days. No major surprises. As I had done the Kharar-Delhi route quite a number of times thanks to Zoomcar, it was an known drive. By-passed Delhi as directed by HVK and hit the YEW to reach the outskirts of Agra. There was a truck broken down on the highway that was causing a traffic pile up. We were lucky enough to anticipate it on time and got to know of a light diversion that helped us get out of the mess.
Leaving Punjab 
We drove along Firozabad, Etawah, Kanpur and reached Allahabad at around 9:30 PM. Since Saket had not met up to our expectation when we stayed there while going, we asked HVK(High Vay King) and CHD(Central Help Desk of HVK) to book another place. We were booked at UR Hotel. That was a better place. We had dinner and called it a day.
UR Hotel - Overall Rating : 3.5/5
Total kms driven: 968
Total expense on toll: None for the day Day 15 - 26th August - Allahabad - Kolkata
Our plan on this day was to leave a little early. If we moved by 7:00 AM we could take a look at the famous Triveni Sangam. Bhavneet was very eager to see the renowned confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and the once Saraswati river.
To our misfortune and our love for sleep, we headed out of the hotel only at 9:30 AM. We still went as planned, to go to the Confluence point. Since this was our last stretch we had nothing to worry about since after however long the day would be, we would be at HOME by the end of it. After having a look at the Hanuman Mandir from a distance, we got back to the road and started our journey for Home.
Triveni Sangam 
The journey back was quite a breeze till Varanasi, since this time we had no road blocks/diversions due to the Kanwar Yatra.
While we were on our way to Ladakh, about 15 days back, we found the stretch from Aurangabad to Varanasi pretty bad. We were not looking forward to travelling that patch once more. After a very grilling journey at Ladak we did not even notice that the quality of roads from Varanasi to Aurangabad had anything to complain about. The principal of relativity had been tested once more. We reached Aurangabad after what we rated as a comfortable stretch.
Lunch Halt 
A friend of mine, had his birthday the next day, and as we were getting late, we thought we could make it to his place by 12 AM. We started looking our for places after Burdawan for a cake shop. It was getting late and shop were closing then, we could not spot a cake shop on the highway and did not want to detour into thee city, less we waste time. We stopped at Saktigarh and picked up a big pack of Langchas for him. lol:
We made it to his place on time, wished him with a short exchange of lanchas as sweetdish and headed home to reach at around 1 AM.
The Journey Came to an End.
Home Sweet Home 
Home
Total kms driven: 860
Total expense on toll: None for the day
Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!
Fantastic Travelogue Navtej !! Your travelogue makes me want to pack my bags & head to Ladakh once again. Wonderful pictures !! Thar looks awesome & so do you two. Glad that some of the talk that we had helped.
Keep traveling & Keep writing !!
Regards,
Pawan
We do many road trips; but Ladakh is always a very special one !! Kudos to you guys on choosing and doing this Exotic Road Trip as your Honeymoon !! clap: This will always be special for you people and you will indeed cherish it for a lifetime. Rated it a well deserved 5*
By the way, your Thar looks gorgeous in that Landscape. Considering the fact that this was the Thar's Debut Trip, it will be interesting to see what all places this Thar will take you.
I just recollected my Ladakh Trip (of 2015) while I went through your travelogue and it made me super nostalgic. This calls for another trip in 2018, what say ?
Wow. Rated 5 stars !!
Ladakh travelogues are always so fascinating. Each and every one of them are so unique.
Kudos.
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