[nilanjanray]

A short photologue
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It was long drive through the heart of India. Bangalore – Pench – Jhansi – Agra – Kumaon hills - Corbett - Jaipur - Bangalore. 7000+ km.

While passing through Kaladhungi, I stopped for a while to take in the forest through all my sense, and to remember the days spent exploring Corbett country on foot during the autumn of 2012. In Mukteshwar, I went for a long night walk. A guard did warn me that wild animals were common after 8 pm, but I figured that if my footsteps were loud enough, they would stay away. Spent an hour sitting on a bench, near the little square. There wasn’t a human in sight. The hoarse, leopard-warning call of a barking deer kept me company. Chaukori was boring, perhaps because I was thinking of the wonderful peak sightings I had had during my previous trip. Jhaltala was relaxing. Days were spent sitting in a pine forest, with mist, drizzle and pine needles for company. The evenings were spent in front of a fire. One night (a few hours before and after midnight) was spent in the middle of the forest, 0.5 km from the resort, with just a fire for company. A couple of times animals came up the path, stopped on seeing the fire, and went away. Had checked beforehand that there were no maneating leopards (there was one operating around Thal village, too far away) or cranky bears in that area, so it wasn’t risky.

The white horse


My tent


Met a Himalayan Griffon Vulture on the way down from Kalamuni Top. That is the only wildlife photo session I had during this trip (I usually shoot wildlife). Munsiyari was cold and wet. I could only hope that the weather would improve the next day.



Next morning I started for Khuliya Top. It had been a while since I had carried a backpack on a mountain trail. It started raining. If I kept my warm clothes and rain gear on, I would sweat heavily. If I took them off, I would feel cold and numb after a few minutes. Anyway, clammy and sticky, I reached the campsite, where I met a few other hikers.

After changing clothes, I had a cuppa of chai and made sure that the tent was put up properly. Had some food to fortify the inner man. Heard some shouting, and went across to investigate. Leech attack – someone had decided to pitch a tent in the midst of long grass, to the utter delight of the critters. Came back and rechecked the tent interior (I hate creep crawly creatures; snakes are ok; worms and leeches are not ok). Once the drizzle slowed down, I started walking up to the Bugyals (the high meadows in the Himalayas) with my camera and a couple of light lenses in a small bag.

A raven.


Grazing


A glimpse of snow. Warm light, cool clouds.


It was an overcast day


At that altitude, there weren’t many trees apart from rhododendrons. Rhododendrons remind me of Sikkim. I have visited Sikkim 10 times, but that was a long time back. A different life.

Met a shepherd and his flock after crossing the treeline. The locals climb with a slow but steady step. On and on. Without fatigue.

There were a few horses grazing around. One little fella was rather frisky, he would gallop across the meadow from time to time. A white horse gave me a few photo opportunities, as it stood in front of black rocks.

Quechua tent. Kept the cold out. I have a couple of them in Bangalore.


A curious sheep


It had been a few years since I visited Bugyal country. I had forgotten how it felt to sit above the clouds on green grass, and stare as long as sheep or cows.

The shepherd went ahead when I stopped for 30 minutes to soak in the atmosphere. The sun was about to come out. The cold breeze and the warm sun on my face made for a heady cocktail, as I lay down on the grass and closed my eyes.

Silhouette.


Stairway to heaven


I was hoping that the clouds would part before sunset. Seemed my prayers had been answered, since I could see a brief glimpse of Panchachulis behind the clouds. The view started getting better as the afternoon progressed.
And my mind just drifted.

All too soon, it was time to go back before it got too dark. As I slowly walked down, I saw Panchachuli I emerge like an iceberg above a sea of clouds. And then slowly the entire Panchachuli range became visible. Walked a little faster, and then sat down beside a cliff, waiting for the shadows to deepen and climb up the slope of the mountains. And then the peaks turned pink and orange, while the valleys became dark and blue. As the setting sun caressed the top pf the peaks, I changed my camera settings (metering, exposure) and took a few underexposed shots that highlighted the contrast between light and shadow.

Peaks visible above a sea of clouds


A few moments before sunset. The sun caressing Panchachuli I.


The cold breeze. The thin air. The rapidly dying light. The sun kissing the Panchachulis goodbye. The cry of a raven. It was heaven.

Went down slowly, thoughtfully down to my tent. It was time for a hot tea and a crackling fire.

Next morning


I didn’t see the snow peaks again once I went down to Munsiyari, but that one magical afternoon (and the next morning) made up for the days of rain and mist. I knew I would be back again, when the peaks would be out in all their splendor during a full moon period. And perhaps take a few more photos such as these (shot during an earlier trip).

The house


The race


Just before sunrise


A full moon night

[phamilyman]

Nilanjan da,

You have an excellent eye. I've been to the same place, but I didn't come back with such vivid mind blowing memories! Kudos on those amazing captures - its a masterclass in landscape photography

[CLIX]

Very nice pictures! Interesting read. Thanks!

[AutoIndian]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

A short photologue

It was long drive through the heart of India. Bangalore – Pench – Jhansi – Agra – Kumaon hills - Corbett - Jaipur - Bangalore. 7000+ km.

Simply vow . Absolutely stunning photography. Have never seen the Kumaon range in full splendour, thanks for sharing. Each photograph is a masterpiece. Very diificult for me to choose the best one. However my pick would be the vulture, looks straight out of a Hollywood horror movie.

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by CLIX

Very nice pictures! Interesting read

Thanks.

Originally Posted by AutoIndian

Simply vow . Absolutely stunning photography. Have never seen the Kumaon range in full splendour, thanks for sharing. Each photograph is a masterpiece. Very diificult for me to choose the best one. However my pick would be the vulture, looks straight out of a Hollywood horror movie.

Thanks. I didn't think many would like the vulture photo .

These peaks (Panchachulis) are in the Eastern part of Kumaon. There are a number of other magnificent peaks such as Nanda Devi, Trishul, Nanda Kot etc. Here is a pre-sunrise shot of Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot, taken during a previous trip. Had to force myself to wake up early in the morning (after a late night) to catch the peaks.

[siddarthab]

Splendid writing with superlative photographs Nilanjan !!!

I have always been an ardent fan of your travelogues and the jaw-dropping quality of your photographs.

Thanks a lot for sharing and keep travelling and clicking.

Warm regards,

Siddhartha

[shashanka]

God's own country - no other caption would do. Nilanjanji, I've said this before & I'll say it again - you'll be blessed with a special corner once you reach the Happy Hunting Grounds (like we all shall!) simply for capturing & recording this bit of paradise on earth! Dear to my own heart of course, but I'm sure many more would veer to this view after going through your photologue.

As someone has just mentioned, the photo of the Himalayan Griffon Vulture is fascinating. We are used to visions of bloody heads & scrawny necks as our plains vultures go into a feeding frenzy over a carcass. This one is certainly a paragon of beauty! I read the other day that apart from carrion they have also been observed eating pine needles!

[shantonob]

Breathtaking, to say the least. And splendid writing to go with it.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attach...-dsc_30012.jpg

This one is my favorite, kind of a dream for me.

Your posts have always been great and I am following most of them.

[Aditya2703]

Beautiful photographs, all of them.
I have been to Uttarkhand but on the Gadhwal side, your travelogue has inspired me to explore the Kumaon side.
Thanks for sharing.

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by shashanka

God's own country - no other caption would do. Nilanjanji, I've said this before & I'll say it again - you'll be blessed with a special corner once you reach the Happy Hunting Grounds (like we all shall!) simply for capturing & recording this bit of paradise on earth! Dear to my own heart of course, but I'm sure many more would veer to this view after going through your photologue.

As someone has just mentioned, the photo of the Himalayan Griffon Vulture is fascinating. We are used to visions of bloody heads & scrawny necks as our plains vultures go into a feeding frenzy over a carcass. This one is certainly a paragon of beauty! I read the other day that apart from carrion they have also been observed eating pine needles!

Thank you. Hoping that our Kerala brethren do not sue us :-)

Hope to come across a few eagles on my next trip. Anyone knows where to find them, in Uttarakhand? Apart from Pangot?

Originally Posted by siddarthab

Splendid writing with superlative photographs Nilanjan !!!

I have always been an ardent fan of your travelogues and the jaw-dropping quality of your photographs.

Thanks a lot for sharing and keep travelling and clicking.

Warm regards,

Siddhartha

Thanks Siddhartha.

Originally Posted by shantonob

Breathtaking, to say the least. And splendid writing to go with it.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attach...-dsc_30012.jpg

This one is my favorite, kind of a dream for me.

Your posts have always been great and I am following most of them.

Thanks. Took that shot just before reaching my tent.

Originally Posted by Aditya2703

Beautiful photographs, all of them.
I have been to Uttarkhand but on the Gadhwal side, your travelogue has inspired me to explore the Kumaon side.
Thanks for sharing.

Thanks. Garhwal is beautiful, especially the high altitude destinations. I prefer Kumaon because it has more forest cover and wildlife, and also because of old associations.

Edit: I hadn't put up any photos of Bison. I don't think I took any photos of her this time, sharing a few from a previous trip to Kumaon.

[RAPTOR-XUV]

Wow Nilanjanray, each picture you captured is of poster quality. For a moment I thought that it was some exotic location. The full moon night pic was mesmerizing and too good to resist. I have saved all on my desktop.

[LoneWolf9]

Absolute stunning pictures.

Is there a full fledge travelogue of this trip?

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by RAPTOR-XUV

Wow Nilanjanray, each picture you captured is of poster quality. For a moment I thought that it was some exotic location. The full moon night pic was mesmerizing and too good to resist. I have saved all on my desktop.

Thanks. The mountains are magical on a full moon night. You should visit sometime.

Originally Posted by LoneWolf9

Absolute stunning pictures.

Is there a full fledge travelogue of this trip?

Thank you. No full fledged travelogue at the moment Did have a few interesting experiences. e.g. while driving through badlands (Chambal stretch) in the night, while in Pench etc.

[Tapish]

Sir, you have a special love for that place. I remember you had been there the last time I wrote about Nanda devi.

Absolutely magical pictures. Were you alone during the trek? Must have been quite an experience.

I so relate to you stopping in the middle of the jungle to take in the place. Sometimes the quiet gives you many answers.

The pic of your tent with the himalayas in the background is my wallpaper now.

Thanks
Tapish

[abirnale]

Wonderful photo-log Nilanjan! Absolutely stunning pictures too. I first met you in our Galibore trip and many stories were yet to be heard! You were probably looking for "your time" and I kept bugging you with questions full of curiosity and may be silly too! I remember the calls we heard sititng near river with small fire at night around 11.30pm or so were kind of scary for me even when we have another 3-4 people around us. I can only imagine how you would have spent the time half a kilometer away from the place to stay, with not a single human being to accompany!

But for sure your stories and travelogues have inspired many. My trip to Tadoba earlier in the summer was most memorable and that has kind of hooked me up to all wildlife Tlogs/ experiences to look forward to!

Thanks again for bringing up this short and crisp experience! But our cravings to read more and hear it from you haven't disappeared yet. Please do us a favour with more narration, pictures if you can